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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Instltut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


■^tm- 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  mav  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 
D 


\J 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


D 


D 


D 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsqiie  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6X6  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppidmentaires: 


L'lnstitut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6X6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  imag<)  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


n 


n 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicuides 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^color^es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachi^es 


I      I    Showthrough/ 


Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  in^gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  matdriel  suppldmentaire 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  6  nouveau  de  fapon  6 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu^  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


□ 

32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6ro8it6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet^  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  Imprimde  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  termlnant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  termlnant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  y  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


1  2  3 


1  2  3 

4  5  6 


32X 


TH 


ORJ 


NARRATIVE 


Of 


THE   EXPLORING  EXPEDITION 


TO 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 


IN  THE  YEAR  1842. 


AND  TO 


OREGON  AND  NORTH  CALIFORNIA 


'in  the  years  1843-44, 


BY 


COLONEL  J^br'TREMONT, 


HEPRINTED  FROM  THE  OFFICIAL  COT/. 

NEW  YORK: 
D.    APPLETON  AND  gOMPANY, 

346    &    848    BKOADWAY. 
M.DCCC.LVI. 


I  On  the 
■ypar  1817 
expoilition 
western  p! 
pa<fi(!(l  by 
ti(in  of  Iwi 
of  the  Re 
Orcfioii  III 
tcrialrt  coll 
oxpeilitioii 
til  on  exist  i 
Mr.  Chavl 
and  secoi 
commence 
On  my 
month  of ! 
closely  en 
Senate  hi 
time  to  th 
the  time  t 
gagemcnt 
last  cxpe 
Cciiceivin 
fornia  wu: 
ing  iinpoi 
to  its  pre 
condition 
the  Senat 
In  layi 
California 
to  show  t 
the  work, 
on  as  cor 
or  other  i 
ral,  and 
known. 

In  exti 
side  of  t 
base  of  tl 
ocean,  an 
the  gulf 
on  the  ! 
Britain,  a 


r 


GEOGllAPIIICAL    xAIEMOIR. 


On  the  spcond  dny  of  Fohniary,  in  tlio 
year  1817,  diirin^r  my  absctice  on  my  third 
expodition  of  topoijraijhitMl  i^iirvoy,  in  the 
!  wost(trn  part  of  this  continent,  a  rcsolvo  was 
I  pass(!d  i)y  iho  Senate  directini,'  tiio  constnic- 
:  tion  of  two  maps — one  of  tiio  eentral  scetion 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  other  of 
Orci;on  and  Upper  Cahfornia — from  liie  ma- 
terials collected  by  me  in  tlio  two  previous 
expeditions,  and  with  the  additions  which  tlie 
then  exislinir  expedition  mijiht  fnrnisli ;  and 
Mr.  Charles  Prenss,  my  assistaiit  in  the  lirst 
and  second  expeditions,  was  emjiloyed  to 
connnenco  the  work. 

On  my  retin'n  to  tlio  United  States,  in  the 
month  of  September  last,  1  found  .Mr.  I'rcuss 
closely  enijaged  >ipon  the  work  on  which  the 
Senate  had  employed  liim  ;  and,  from  that 
time  to  the  present,  I  have  myself  given  all 
the  time  that  could  be  spared  from  other  en- 
gagements to  supply  the  additions  which  the 
last  expedition  has  enabled  me  to  make. 
Conceiving  that  the  maj)  of  Oregon  and  Cali- 
fornia was  of  the  most  immediate  and  ])ress- 
ing  importJUice,  I  first  dirccied  my  attention 
to  its  preparation,  in  order  to  bring  it  into  a 
condition  as  soon  ,as  possible  to  be  laid  before 
the  Senate  ;  which  is  now  done. 

In  laying  this  map  of  Oregon  and  Upper 
California  before  the  Semite,  1  deem  it  proper 
to  show  the  extent  and  general  character  of 
the  work,  and  how  far  it  may  bo  (iejjendod 
on  as  correct,  as  being  founded  on  my  own 
or  other  surveys,  and  how  far  it  is  conjectu- 
ral, and  only  presented  as  the  best  that  is 
known. 

In  extent,  it  embraces  the  wliole  western 
side  of  this  continent  between  the  eastern 
ba.se  of  the  Koiky  mountains  and  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  brlwciMi  the  straits  of  Fiica  and 
the  gulf  of  California,  taking  for  its  outline, 
on  the  north,  the  Imundary  line  with  tireat 
Britain,  and  on  the  south,  including  the  bay 


;  of  San  Diego,  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  Call- 

lornia,  the  rivers  Colorado  and  Gila,  and  all 

the  country  through  which  the  line  of  the 

'.  late  treaty  with  Mexico  would  run,  from  El 

Pdsn  del  \:)r/e  to  the  sea.     To  complete  the 

i  view  in  that  rpiarter,  the  valley  of  the  Rio 

I  d(d  Norte  is  added,  from  the  head  of  the  river 

i  to  HI  I'aso  del  Norte,  thereby  including  New 

;  Mexico.    The  rnap  has  been  constructi'd  ex- 

I  pressly  to  exhibit  the  two  countries  of  Ore- 

f^'on  and  the  Alta  California  together.     It  h 

,  believed  to  be  the  most  correct  that  has  ap- 

;  peared  of  either  of  them  ;  and  it  is  certainly 

I  the  only  one  that  shows  the  structure  and 

conliguration  of  the  interior  of  Upper  Cali- 

I  fornia. 

The  part  of  the  Tiap  which  exhibits  Ore- 
gon is  chiefly  copied  from  the  works  of  others, 
but  not  entirely,  my  own  explorations  in  that 
territory  having  e,\tended  to  nearly  two  thou- 
.sand  miles.     The  part  which  exhibits  Cali- 
fornia, and  especially  the  Great  Uasin,  the 
I  Sierra  Nevada,  the  beautiful  valley  of  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joacpiin,  is  chiefly  from  my 
I  own  surveys  or  personal  view,  and  in  sucli 
]  ca.ses  is  given  as  correct.     Where  my  own 
!  observations  did  not  extend,  the  best  autliori- 
i  lies  have  been  followed. 

The  profile  view  in  the  margin,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  map,  exhibits  the  elevations 
of  the  country  from  the  .S'o;///i  Pass  in  the 
Rocky  mountains  to  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
risco,  passing  the  Utah  and  the  Great  Salt 
lake,  following  the  river  Humboldt  throuch 
the  northern  side  of  the  Great  IJasin,  cross- 
ing the  Sierra  Nevada  into  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento,  where  the  emigrant  road  now 
crosses  that  sierra  forty  miles  north  of  Xueva 
Helvetia.  This  line  shows  the  present  tra- 
velling route  to  California.  The  prolile  on 
the  south  side  of  the  map  exhibits  the  eleva- 
tions of  the  country  on  a  difP'rent  line — the 
line  of  exploration  in  the  last  expedition — 


GKOCUAIIIK  Al,   Ml  Moll; 


fj'.iin  l!ic  lii'iid  of  thi'  Arlviiisa-  hy  the  I'liili 
Slid  S:ill  l.il((',  and  iIiimipJi  ihi'  intrriorol  llj.' 
(I'rcat  Ha-iii.  ('riissiiii_' till' Sii'rr.i  Nevada  into 
tlir  Sacrami'iilo  valley  a1  llii'  li'^ad  i<(  llie 
Rill  il'  Ids  .\ w;"/r(//ii/.v.  'l'li('sf>  ]irotil(>  views 
arc  yivcn  inercly  t'er  lli(<ir  iniHiws.  to  show 
llio  sinii'tiire  of  the  coinitry  between  the 
I{o('l;v  iiioinitains  and  tlie  sea.  and  llie  li-e 
and  tall  oi'ca>ioned  liy  iiioiiiilains  and  \alley.-. 
I'"nll  an<l  di\--cri|ilivc'  in-oH'e  views  on  a  lariie 
scale  are  wanted,  niarkin:.'  Ilie  ^eoln^ical 
,-l  met  lire  of  the  country,  .md  exeihilin;:  at 
their  |ii'o|i('r  altitude's  the  ihlleren!  products 
of  till'  vejretalilt^  kingdom.  Some  material 
is  already  collertcil  fir  such  n  piir|io('.  ex-  ' 
leiidinjr  on  ditrerei!'  Iii\ps  from  the  Mis<is-  ■ 
^i||pi  to  thi'  I'acilic.  lint  not  sulllcient.  to  com-  , 
plele  tlie  v.ork. 

'I'iie  Arahie  li'.rures  ow  diflerent   parts  of  I 
llie  map  indicat"  the  elevation  of  places  above  j 
the  level  of  th'  sea;  a  know!c(li.re  ol'  \vhi(di 
is  essential  to  a  just  conception  of  lla^  climate  j 
and  a)_n'icidtural  capacities  ol'  a  country.        i 

'I'he  lonL!itndes  eslalili.-hiMl  on.  fin'  line  of 
exploration  o\  the  last  expedition  are  based 
on  a  series  of  astronomical  <iliservalions,  resf- 
inii'  on  lour  main  positions,  deternuned  bv 
hniar  cnhuinations.  The  lirst,  of  these  main 
jiositions  is  at  tiie  moulh  of  the  Fmitahir  (/iii 
lidtiit  river,  on  the  Upper  Arkansas  ;  the  se- 
cond is  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Great 
Sail  lake,  and  two  in  tlu?  valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento, at  the  western  bas^  cif  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada. Thi«;  line  of  astronomic.d  oh:-er\ations. 
tints  carried  across  the  continent,  reaches  the 
I'acitic,  ocean  on  thu  northern  shore  of  the 
ijay  of  Monterey. 

In  my  luihlislied  map.  of  the  year  ISl.'i. 
:'•.(■  line  of  the  western  coast  was  laid  down 
..■■cordiniT  to  Vanciuiver.  \Vheii  the  newly 
"stabhshed  jiositions  were  |)laced  on  the  map 
i>ow  laid  bctbre  the  Senate,  it  was  found  that 
they  carried  the  line  of  the  const  about  I'our- 
tceii  miles  W(>st,  and  the  valleys  of  the  Sa- 
cramento and  San  Joaipiin  about  twenty 
miles  east ;  makinir  an  increase  of  more  than 
thirty  miles  in  the  breadth  of  the  country 
below  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Upon  examina- 
tion, it  was  lound  that  these  positions  aert'ei!. 
nearly,  with  the  oljservatinns  of  ('ai)iiiiii 
IJeeciiey,  at  Monterey.  'i'lu-  corrections 
reijuired  by  the  new  ])ositions  were  then 
accordinii'ly  u'.ado  ;  the  basin  of  the  Sacrri- 
nienio  aiai  San  .Itiaijuin  valleys  was  removed 
to  the  eastward,  and  the  line  of  the  coast 
jirojecled  iarllier  we.-t,  conformably  to  my 
observations,  retainini;  the  coiilifruration 
ijiven  to  it  by  the  surveys  of  Vai?8ouver. 

The  error  iii  the  position  of  the  San  .loa- 
(]i;;ii.  Sacramento,  and  VN'aldahnialh  valleys 
still  exists  upiiu  the  niost  authentic  maps  ex- 
tant ;  and  it  iippeai.<  that,  upon  the  charts  in 
<Tei|i;nd  use,  a  ereatly  erroneous  position  is 
still  triven  to  the  coast. 


I!\  thr  rrliiii;  '  \  t  .  ■  Ui.ited  Slate-  sloop- 
oi-v,ir    l'.'il-i,.o  til.  ( 'i  iiini:nid''r  Mirr.l;:'i!ri- 

ery.  IpMil  Ire  I';'  i;i( ..n.  i'   is  Irailli'ii  thai 

\\\ti  llriti-h  -iMp-  ol  war  are  now  (  nua^ed 
in  n;:  l.iu:;  a  new  ^l,;■^  v  of  the  i^\u{  aur! 
Cua-I  ol  ('aliliirni.i.  It  is  al.-o  known  thai 
an  Ameriran  w  liih'  >hip  was  rrc.'iills  In--'  cu 
1 1,1'  c'l.'i-l  of  ( '  !|i:cii  ni:'  in  <■■  i:i.-"ipii'n!'i'  of  the 
eri'or-  in  the  liiarls  \\i,\\  in  ^'.iieril  um'.  lor-.- 
I:u2  the  coa-!  uuil  i-'ands,  iVniu  .M'lnler;', 
south,  to.i  far  ea^t.' 

'J'hr  a.-lroneihical  oh.-ervalions  made  bv  iue 
.■u'n:.-s  tlie  coiitiiii  e.l.  in  this  my  third  expe- 
dition, wi're  cah  uli'.Iiil  by  I'rolc-si'r  Jlub- 
bard.  of  llie  nalional  ob~f  r\  a'ory.  (\\'a-h;)i;;- 
ton  v\\\.)  durin'j  the  pre.'nt  winter;  and  a 
note  from  him  on  tlie  ^nll|e(t  of  llcse  nii-i'v- 
vatioiH  i^  adiii-d  as  an  appendix  to  this 
memoir.  .M\  att<'ut;on  ha\in;r  been  recently 
called  to  this  sub|i el.  (the  true  |lo^ilion  ol 
the  coa~t  of  Calilornia.)  I  find  it  worlhv  of 
remark,  that  the  position  "ivi'ii  lo  this  coa.-l 
on  the  ciiarts  of  ihr  nld  Spanish  navijiators 
au'rei's  nearly  witii  that  which  would  be  as- 
sien.'d  to  it  by  the  ob.-ervalions  of  the  nio.-l 
eminent  naval  surveyors  of  the  |H-esent  da). 
'J'he  ]M'-ition  adopted  for  .Monterey  anil  tin' 
adjacent  co,-i>!,  on  the  map  now  laid  lielor  ■ 
the  Senate,  a;jie('s  nearly  with  that  in  w  hit  ! 
it  bad  been  placed  by  the  observations  o) 
Midii>i'lu(i,\  in  IT'.tl. 

In  eonstructinu'  this  map  it  became  nece-- 
sarv  to  adopt  the  coast  line  of  the  I'acilic.  a- 
tounil  ill  map-  in  'S'  ui'ral  use.  to  nive  i'  cou;- 
[ilet'ues-.  Il  wa-  no  part  of  mv  de.-i;'n  1" 
make  a  chari  of  t!i"  coasl.  Findinii'  an  errrr 
when  1  ci:i;.i'  to  lay  down  tiie  liay  of  .Monl'- 
rev.  1  al'i'red  iiiv  map  to  suit  it.  I  knew 
nothing:'  tin  n  of  anv  errors  in  the  coa-t. 
It  i^  s.-ili- factory  now  lo  liml  tliat  my  astro- 
nomical obsi  ;'\aiions  correspond  with  iho-i' 
previoii>lv  made  bv  Bi'echey  and  lielchei, 
anil  \erv  L'ratifviiiLr  to  be  able  to  add  soiu' 
testimonial  lo  the  correctness  of  those  maif' 
bv  .Malaspina  lona  before  either  of  theiii. 
Vancouxcr  removed  the  coa.-l  line  as  ll\.?d 
bv  Malaspina.  ;uid  the  subsequent  obser\;i- 
tioiin  carry  i!  bark. 

*  Na\  Al.  — Tlf  t'liili-'i  Sl-ilc*  ^!ii  i|ror  \v,ir  r''lIsinolilI; 
CiiTiiiii  in.lcr  J.iliii  II.  MiiiH:;  iih'iy.  M'rn.il   .-i'    Kd-iiin  i  i 

I-'ihl.-iv.  rioinl]"'  I'-i'ili''! ail    lit^t  t'limi  \'alM;ir;ii-().  ti  li 

rv:v.\  '-':l.      I',  ii;iii:iii  i.'i  .Mull'.- ly  hlalisllial  llli'  DmiiIi 

tn-.iir  "li. -.ill!,"  .i;,.!  llK-  111:;  "  l';un!iir;i,"  ii'f  in 
'2:\z-  !  ill  in:iklli_'  a  lu'w  Mlrvi-y  nl'  tin'  ^'illt'  unit  c'(Ki.-t  ut* 
l'niil..r:.ia. 

'I'l.t'     \\i,;ili'    >l'.i|i    "  It'|,(\''    nC    l'ro\  l;it'iu-L'.    wa*    v 
I'er.tK    If. I  (111  till'  loii-t.  in  i-iiii-.'.mii'H't  ol'  an  i-rroi  in  tlu- 
l-iiait.,    liiiw   HI  si-ni'ial   ilM'.  wlihli  I  'i-atL'  llii'   ooa>Is   ami 
islaiiiU  tiiiiii  .Monti  .'--V  in  Cai'i'   Si,  I. in. is  fioii,  lil'ti'i-n  'ti 
i'.y.\\   iiiilii   luo    tar   to   lia.'   la-Usaril. — .Valiolhi/    lnt<f// 
I'mr-r. 

-  I 'i'  I'll- .^niH'iil,  iiil  ri'i'i.i.  ami  iint  rlnnaa'  imvj::alijr. 
Miilrl'olui  .'l.-«.i\  on  .X,\v  Sjiaiil    .-ay>  ; 

■■  'ri,  '  !M:',hai  lu'jt  111'  III.  ixi'i  liiiiuii  r  ii-i-l.  not  oriiv 
111  ihu  ntiiiiii  ■.  ol  asamiomii-al  oli^TVation^.  but  pniii;! 
pallv  miia-  iii,lii-ion>  nn^'linl  wl.lili  wa.  I'liiplou-il  to  ^i: 
iivi'iit  i-.T'aiii  nmlu      Till.  !oi.L'iliiilo  an.!  la'ilinlc  of  loni 

)ioiii'=:  on  tl o:i<l  't'api'  San  lait-a,,  .Alinitirt'v .  Nooiki. 

Mill  I'u't  iVlui.'iaM     wi.t  li.\i.'il   Ml  an  ali.-iilutii  iiiiilili^T. 


'I'    li.M     I'l.ill'il     SlllllV-      .-~lfM)],- 

ili.  <  'liUiiii.niil^T  Mmit;: ';ii- 
'  ',','ir  <■'  .'.in.  i^   is  li';u  lii'i!  lll:ll 

I-  I'l   \\:'.r  iiii'  now  (  ii'.:iij:"il 

li.i.     It    i-i  :il.-ii   kiinwii   \\r,A 

:\\f  >hi]l  \V;iS   I'lC.'lills    111--'   ell 

iniiii.''  ill  (■■i:i.;"i|Ui'ii!T  i<(  llir 

II-  ImW  ill  ^vipT.il  i\~r.  lor-.. 
111(1    irl;lllll.-,    rrnlll     MmIiIiM;', 

ical  o!i.-cr\Mlions  iimdi'  liv  mr^ 
iiriil,  in  this  my  tliiiil  r.\|ii'- 
i  uhiliil  l.y  I'n'ilc-^M'i-  lliih- 
Dlliil  (ili~f  r\;i'nry.  (  ^\',■l■-ll::l;;- 
tll^  pre  ■■ii!  wiiiliT  :  jiiil  a 

1  l!li'  ^■llll|l'(  t   III'   lll"Si'  iiil.-iT- 

il  lis  nil  ii|i|>i'iii!ix  to  lliis 
ti'illidll  liii\ili;r  ln'cii  vcc(Mi!ly 
i!i|i el.  (llir  tnu'  |iiisili(i:i  o; 
liluriii;i.)  1  liiiil  it.  wiirlhy  lu' 
posiiimi  j;ivi'll  Id  this  c'oii.-l 
till'  dill  S|iaiiisii  iiavi^iiilnis 
til  that  wiiicii  wiiiilil  lie  iis- 
10  oli.-i'ivaliiiiis  dl'  tlid  ino.-t 
iirvi'Vdis  III'  till.'  |iri'sent  da) . 
ii|iii'(l  fur  .Mdiili'iTv  ami  tiir 
ill  till'  iiia|)  iidW  laid  lii'lor' 
cs  nearly  with  that  in  whir!, 
c.'il  liv  the  iiliscrvatidiis  ul 
I7!U.  ' 

;;  this  iiKi)!  it  hri'anii'  iiori'-- 

'  cnast  line  of  tlir  I'ai-ilir.  a- 

2'l  IU'l'ai    llsr.  Id  nivc  i<    I'dli;- 

a-  lid  |)ai'l  ol'  iiiv  (li'siL'.n  !.■ 
till'  cdasl.  Fiiidiita-  an  iTii  i' 
lay  down  tiif  iJay  of  Mdiil'- 

IV  nia|)  to  Piiit  it.  I  hiM'w 
!    aiiv   i.Tidi's    in    tlip  (Mii-t. 

V  iidw  Id  lind  that  my  jistVd- 
lidiis  I'drrcspdiid  with  ihd-" 
>  hy  Bdcclicy  and  lii'lclii.'i, 
.■iiiir  to  111'  !il)k'  to  add  sdiiii' 
[■  corroclness  of  those  niadi' 
my:  helore  either  of  tlii-ni. 
dved  the  coast  line  as  lixi.'d 
ml   tlie   siihseqiienl  ol)sei'\;i- 


liili'<i  Sl-ilc*  ^!ii'i|r<)r-\v,ir  I*iillsinnlili; 
Muiii:;  iM.'iv.  M'incil   .-I'    l!(i-i(iii  .  v 

iliii ;ui    la^t  I'tinn  \';ilM;ir:ii-().  hi'.i 

ill  .Miiir.- ly  •ilaUs  lliul  lln'  iliiiili 

;i!mI    ih'     li  iL'  ■■  r:uiiliir:i,"  ii'f    in 
'w  Mirvfv  ui  III:"  f:nir  iinit  c'o:i.-t  ut* 

"l!i>|,(>,"'    o!"    l'ri)\  i:it'iicL>.    w:t-    !'■ 
l-I.  il)  riiiiM'trtl-'lu-r  t}\'  :ill  iTrOi    in  llu' 

111  UM>.  wlihli  I  H-itlL'  tlic  oo;i>i.*  ;iiiil 
■vio(';ti'i'  Si.  1.iiim>  froii.  lil'tri-n  'it 
o   lliu   i;i-l»;tril. — A'ltnoiia!    hti'li, 

111  r<'[ii<i.  iiii.i  mil'  rlmiaa'   na\i:::il(jr . 

New  Sjiiiii!    .-ay- ; 
,il  111'  In-  i\'i  tiiiiun  ('  u-i-l-  iiol  oniv 
,;ronomii':tl   olwrviUluii-i.  bill   priiii.! 

nw'lin.l  wl.iili  wa-   I'liiplon'il  t'»  ■:'. 
Till-  liil.L'lluil.-  :ill'!  l".Mil''!n  "I' linn 
I'api*  San  lau-a*.  .Alinitirin  .  Nonlii  i. 
wi.t  li.XL'il  in  ill!  ali.-iiiutii  iiiiililici. 


rroN'  vvvvAi  California. 


In  lavMii;  this  irnp  before  the  Senate  and 

II  until  i|ialioii  ol  the  lull  work  whieh  my 
pvpliinitidiis  (willi  sdiiie  I'lirth'T  exainiiia- 
Iidiis)  may  eiiahle  me  in  draw  up  hereafter, 
I  deem  it  ii  prd;ier  ai-compaiiiiiieiit  to  the 
map  to  preseni  some  hriel  iielires  of  Cai.i- 
Hii;ni.\,  with  11  view  In  show  the  character 
of  the  fdiintry.  and  il-  capahilily  it  olher- 
wise  to  sustain    ii  cdn-iderahle    popiilalidit. 

III  doiny'  this,  no  irendal  reiimrlis  npplicahle 
to  the  whdie  (if  ('alii'drniii  can  he  \\<tH\. 
'I'lie  diversity  in  dill'erent  |)arts  is  too  iireat 
Id  iidiiiil  ii'i  eviierali/.alidii  in  the  descriplinii. 
Separate  view.s  of  dilli'rent  parts  inii-t  he  ta- 
ken ;  and  in  this  hriel  sketch,  the  dcsiiin  is 
td  limit  the  view  Id  the  Iwii  irreiit  divisiens 
of  tlio  country  which  lie  on  the  opposite 
sides  of  the  Sii-.iiiiA  Nkvaha,  and  to  the 
character  of  that  nidiintaiii  itself,  so  proiiii- 
iieiit  in  the  "trtiftiiro  of  the  country,  iind 
exercisin;f  so  (jreat  an  intlneiice  over  thi>  cli 
mate.  Slid,  and  productions  of  its  lwdili\i 
siuiis. 

Sir.ni'.A    NEVADA, 


This  Sii.uitA  is  p.art  of  llie  ijavat  inoniitain 
riinye.  which,  iiiider  ditlerent  names  and 
with  (lill'ereiit  (.'levatidlis,  hut  with  iiiiich  iiiii- 
fdniiilv  of  direction  and  peneral  pro.\imity 
Id  the  Cdasl.  extends  IVdiii  the  peninsula  of 
Califdrnia  Id  J{iis-iaii  America,  and  witiioiit 
a  e-ap  in  the  di-lance  tlirdieili  which  the 
water  of  tlii'  ilocky  iiidiintains  could  reach  tin" 
I'acilic  dceaii.  except  at  the  two  places  wliere 
the  ('oliinihiii  and  Frazer's  ri\er  respect- 
ively Hiid  Ihi'ir  passatji'.  This  j;re;it  ranir'' 
is  remarkalile  for  its  leiieth,  its  proximity  and 
parallelism  to  tin- sea-coast,  its  ereat  eleva- 
tion, often  inoro  lofty  than  the  lldcky  mdiin 
tains,  and  its  many  ijrand  volcanic  peaks. 
reacJiinu  liiy:li  into  the  rei_'ioii  of  perpetual 
snow.  IJisiiiii;  siiiely,  like  pyramids,  from 
heavily  thiiheri'd  |)lateanx,  to  the  lieijiht  of 
fourteen  and  seventeen  thousand  ieet  ahovo 
the  level  of  the  sea.  these  snowy  peaks  con- 
stitute the  characterizinir  leatiiro  of  the 
ran;j;e,  and  dislr.niriiisli  it  from  the  Rocky 
riioiintains  a,id  all  others  on  onr  part  of  the 
cuiilinent. 

Tiiat  part  of  this  ranpre  which  traverses 
the  Alta  C".\lifoi:ma  is  called  the  Sii-rra 
Afidila,  (Snowy  mountain) — a  name  in  it- 
self iniplyinu'  a  jrreat  elevation,  as  it  is  only 
anplii'd.  in  Spanish  L''('di;rapliv,  to  the  moim- 
laiiis  whose  snnimils  ponetrale  the  reijionof 
perpetual  snow.  It  is  a  ^rriind  t'eatiire  of 
('alifornia,  and  a  ddmiiiatini.'  (ine.  and  iiiiist 
he  well  nnderslddil  heliire  the  striiclnre  ef 
the  country  and  the  character  of  its  diirereiit 
divisions  can  bo  comprehended.  It  divides 
(,'a!il'ornia  into  two  parts,  and  exercises  a 
if'cided  inlliionce  on  the  climate,  soil,  and 
[>rodiulions  of  oach.     Stretcliiiii,'  aloiiL;-  the 


c.visf.  and  at  llin  ei'iif'"il  di-laiii'e  e""  l.';f' 
miles  Iniin  il,  this  oreat  mumi'aiii  w;i;l  re- 
ceives the  warm  winds,  cliari.'eil  with  vaper, 
which  sweep  across  the  i'acilic  ocean,  pre- 
cipitates lli"ir  accamiilaled  iiieisiure  in  ler- 
lihziii;;  rains  nnil  snews  npnii  its  western 
tlaiik.  and  leaves  cold  and  dry  winds  to  jiass 
on  to  the  east.  I  leiice  the  c!iaracl"rislic  dif- 
ferences of  the  two  reeions — mildness,  fer- 
tilitv,  and  a  sii|ierl)  vei.r,.tulj!e  kiiiydom  on 
one  side,  Cdiiiparalive  harreniiess  and  cold  on 
tlKyither. 

'I'he  Iwd  sides  of  the   Siena   (>.\iilliit  two 
distinct   climates      'I'he   slate  of  vet/elation, 
in  <'diinectioii  >.\illi  sdioe  iheruidiiielrical  oh- 
.servalions  made  diiriii'i  the   n  '■■lit  e.\pldrin:r 
pxpedilidii   td  Calirdriiia.    will   estahlish   iinU 
ilii'istrate  Ihis  ditll'reiKc.       In  llie  li"viiniiiirr 
of  Deceiiiher.  iM,').  v.  e  cvd--eil    this   Sierra, 
at  latitude  ;<!>"  17'  \2".  at  Ii;"  piv -eiit   iisii.al 
Ii-     emigrant    pass,  at   tlie    li"ad   ol   the  Sain. mi 
Tniiil  ri\er.  10  miles  iinrlh  el  \ew  Ilelvelia, 
and   made  oli,-er\alioiis  at  each  Imso,  and  in 
the  same  liitiliidi'.  Id  delermire  I  he  respect i\e 
temperatures;  the  lun  liases  heiie;',  respect- 
ividy,  the  insh  rii  aiiiiiit  ,000,  and  tli"  ivst'rn 
aliollt   I.IIIKI  feet  alidve  the   level  nf  the   sea  ; 
and  the  I'as-.  7.-J0ii  feet.     The  mean  results 
of  the  ohservalions  were,  on  the  c.^/  reside, 
at  sunrise.  (•°  :  at  neon.  1  l"  ;  at  siiiisi-t  :!i)"  ; 
the  state  of  veL'e'atidn   and  the  iippearaiico 
of  the  country  hemi,' at  the  same  liii.e  (second 
week  (if  Decemherj  that   df  Cdiitiriaed  win- 
ter;   the    rivers   frozen    over,   simw   (in   the 
riilLies.  annual  plants  dead,  ^ra.-s  dry,  and  de- 
ciduous  trees  stripped  of  their  fdliaec.      At 
\hi'.  iirslirn   base,  the  mean  temperature  dii- 
rinii  a  correspondini.'  week  was,  at  sunrise, 
2;)",  and  at  siiiisel  trS-^  ;  the  state  ol'  the  at- 
nidspliere  and  of  vegetation  tliat  nf  iiih.iliciiiu; 
spriii;:' ;  ei-ass   fresh  and  L'iee:i.  lour  to  eiiflit 
inches  hieli,  vernal   plants   in  hlooiii,  the  air 
soft,  and  all  the  streams  free  from  ice.     Thus 
DecemlM  r,  on  one  side  of  the  mountain,  was 
winter  ;  on  the  other  it  was  spriiie-. 


THE  i;i:r.AT  n.vsix. 

Fast  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  between 
it  and  the  Uocky  mountains,  is  tliat  anoina- 
loiis  feature  in  our  cuiitincnt,  the  (Jiikat  J'a- 
»iiN,  the  existence  of  which  was  aiKanced  as 
a  theory  after  the  seceiid  expeditiim.  aiul  i.s 
iidw  eslahlished  as  a  irooLrraphical  fact.  It 
is  a  siiioiilar  feature:  a  basin  of  some  livo 
liiindieirmdes  diameter,  every  way,  between 
I'oiir  and  five  thousand  feel  above  the  level 
ol  the  .sea,  shut  in  all  around  by  moiintains, 
with  its  own  system  of  lakes  and  rivers,  and 
haviniT  no  conneclion  whatever  with  the  sea. 
I'arllv  arid  and  sparsely  inhabited,  the  gen- 
eral character  of  the  (inr.AT  I>.\si.n  is  that  of 
dd.sert,  but  with  yreat  exceplidus,  there  beinf^ 


CEOaRAPinCAL  MRMOIR 


siiiall  ^Ironiiis  of  water  IVdiii  livo  to  lil'ly  rcft 
wido,  wliic'li  lose  llu'iiiSL'lvcs,  some 


nianv  pnrts  of  it  \('ry  fit  for  tlie  resilience  of 
ii  ri'vili/i'd  |ieii|ile  ;  iiiiil  of  these  |iiirts,  the 
Muriiiolis  iiave  lately  estililislieil  llieinselves 
ill  one  nf  llie  lart.'e~t  and  liest.  Mniiiitaili  is 
tlie  preiloiiiinatin^'  striutiiri'  of  the  interior 
(if  tile  llasiii.  Willi  plains  lietween — tlie  iiioiiii- 
taiiis  wooded  and  watered,  the  |)laiiis  arid  and 
Hterile.  'I'lie  interior  nioiiiitains  conform  to 
the  law  wiiirli  yo\eriis  llie  course  of  the 
Uorky  iiiimntains  and  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
rani'iiii'  nearly  north  and  south,  and  present 
a  very  iinilorin  i  haracter  ol  iilirn))tiies,s,  ri«- 
.11^'  suddenly  from  a  narrow  hase  of  ten  to 
twenty  miles,  and  attainiii;;  an  elevation  of 
two  to  live  thousand  leet  atioNC  the  level  of 
the  country.  They  are  ;.'rassy  and  wooded, 
sli.nvin:.;  snow  on  their  siiinmit  peaUs  diirinj; 
Ihu  {greater  part  of  the  year,  and  iitrordinj; 
'  '  o  to  lil'ly  feet 

line  in  lakes, 
(ioiiie  in  the  dry  plains,  and  some  in  the  hell 
o(  alluvial  soil  'it  the  hase  ;  for  these  nioiili- 
tiiiiis  have  very  iiiiiformly  this  belt  of  allu- 
vion, the  wash  and  ahrasion  of  their  .sides, 
rich  in  excellent  ifrass,  fertile,  and  li^'lit  and 
loose  enoiinrli  to  alisorh  small  streams.  IJe- 
tweeii  these  mountains  are  the  arid  plains 
whi<h  receire  and  deserve  the  name  of  de- 
pert.  yiicli  is  the  {general  structure  of  the 
interior  of  the  (ireat  Hasi'i,  more  Asiatic  than 
American  in  its  character,  and  iiiiich  rescin- 
h'iiii,' the  elevated  re;;ion  hetween  the  Cas- 
pian sea  and  northern  I'ersia.  The  rim  of 
this  I?a>in  i.'  massive  ran^jes  of  motinlains, 
of  which  tlie  Sierra  Nevada  on  the  west,  and 
the  VVah-satch  and  Timpanotros  chains  on 
the  cast,  are  the  most  conspicuous.  On  the 
north,  it  is  se|)arated  from  the  waters  of  the 
Colunihia  hy  a  hranch  of  the  Kocky  mouii- 
tiiins,  and  from  the  fxiilf  of  ("alifornia,  on  the 
Boiith.  hy  a  lied  of  iiioiiiitainoiis  ranges,  of 
which  the  existence  has  been  only  recently 
determined.  Snow  alioiind.s  on  them  all; 
on  some,  in  their  loftii'r  parts,  the  whole  year, 
with  wood  and  <rrass  ;  with  copious  streama 
of  water,  sometimes  amounfini,'  to  considera- 
ble rivers,  tlowiiii;  inwards. ;iii(l  formiiii;  lakes 
or  sinkiiiif  in  the  sands.  Helts  or  benches 
of  good  alluvion  are  usually  found  at  their 
base. 

Lakes  in  the  (irrat  Basin. — The  Great 
Salt  lake  and  the  Utah  Ink,-  are  in  this  Basin, 
toward.s  it.s  eastern  rim,  and  constitute  its 
most  interestiu;f  feature — one,  a  saturated 
solution  of  cominon  salt — the  other,  fresh — 
the  Utah  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Sail  lake,  which  is  itself  four 
thousand  two  hmidred  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  connected  by  a  strait,  or  river,  thirty- 
live  miles  lonji;. 

These  lakes  drain  an  area  often  or  twelve 
thousand  sijuare  miles,  and  have,  on  the  ea.-'t. 
along  the  base  of  the  mountain,  the  usual 
bench  of  alluvion,  which  extends  to  a  dis- 


tance of  three  hundred  miles,  with  wood  an:! 
water,  and  abundant  ;;ra-s.  'I'lie  Mormons 
have  established  themselves  on  the  s'r.iit  be- 
tween these  two  lakes,  anil  will  liiid  siiilicient 
arable  land  for  a  lari,'('  setllemenl — important 
troiii  its  position  as  intermediate  between  1I16 
.Mi^sissi|ipi  valley  and  the  I'acilic  ocean,  ami 
on  the  line  of  coiiimuiiicalion  to  l,'alil. irnia 
and  Oregon. 

'J'lie  I'lali  is  aboiil  thirty-live  miles   lon^r, 
and  is  reiii.aikable  for  the  numerous  and  bold 
streams  wliich  it  receives,  coniini;  down  from 
the   moiintains  on    the   southeast,  all    frei.h 
water,  allliuinjh  11  lar^'c   formation  of  rock 
salt,  imbedded   in   red  clay,  is   found  within 
the  area  on  the  southeast,  wliich  il  drains. 
'J'lie  lake  and  its  atlliieiits  alVord   larne  trout 
and  other  li-h  in  tjreat  numlii'rs,  which  con- 
stitute the  food  of  the   Utah    Indians  during' 
the  lishiiii;  sea.son.     'I'lie  (ireat  Salt  lake  has 
a  very  irrcfrular  outline,  frreatly  extended  at 
time  of  meltini;  snows.     Il  is  about  seventy 
miles  in   leii;,'tli  ;  Ih'IIi  lake.--,  raniriiijr  nearly 
north  and  south,  in  conformity  to  the  range 
of  the  mountains,  and  is  remarkable  for  it.s 
jiredoiiiinance  of  salt.     The  wlio''^  l.iko  wa- 
ters seem  thorouiihly  saturated  with  it,  and 
every  evaporation  of  the  water  leaves  salt 
behind.     The  rucky  shores  of  the  islands  are 
whitened  by  the  sjiray.  which  leaves  salt  on 
every  thing  it  touches,  and  a  covering  like 
ice   forms  over  the  water,  which  the  waves 
throw  among  the  rocks.     The  shores  of  the 
lake  in  the  dry  season,  when  the  waters  re- 
cede, and  esjiecially  on  the  south  side,  are 
whitened  with    incrustations  of  lino  white 
salt;  the  shallow  arms  of  the  lake,  at  the 
same  time,  under  a  slight  covering  of  briny 
water,   present  bods  of  salt  for    miles,   re- 
sembling softened  ice,  into  which  the  horses' 
feet  sink  to  the  fetlock.     I'lants  and  bushes, 
blown  by  the  wind  upon  these  tields,  are  en- 
tirely iiicrusted  with  crystallized  salt,  more 
than  an  inch  in  thickness.      Upon  this  lake 
of  salt  the  fresh  water  received,  Iboiigli  great 
in  quantity,  has  no  percejitible  ellect.     No 
fish,  or  animal  life  of  any  kind,  is  found  in 
it ;  the  larva'  on  the  shore  being  found  to 
belong  to  winged  insects.     A  geological  ex- 
amination of  the  bed  and  .shores  of  this  lake 
is  of  the  highest  interest. 

Five  gallons  of  water  taken  from  this  lake 
in  the  month  of  September,  and  roughly 
evaporated  over  a  lire,  gave  fourteen  pints  of 
salt,  a  |)art  of  which  being  subjected  to  ana- 
lysis, gave  the  following  proportions  : 

parts. 

Chloride  of  sodium  (common  salt)  .  97.80 

Chloride  of  calcium     .         .         .  O.tJl 

Chloride  of  magnesium     .         .  .     0.;24 

Sulphate  of  soda          .         .         .  0.i'3 

Sulphate  of  Line      .        .        .  .     I.IJ 


lOO.OC- 


Mildred  inilcH,  witli  wood  nr.;! 
id.iiit  ;;i;i-s.  Tlic  .Mnniions 
I  llicinscKis  cm  llic  >ir.iit  lie- 

lakes,  and  wili  liiid  siurn-ient 
I  larije  .«elllemeiil — iiiijiort'iii! 

as  iiileriiiediale  lielweeii  tlift 
y  and  the  IVicilic  ocean,  aiid 
loiiiiiiuiiication  to  (,'alir.)rni;i 

loiit  t)iirly-li\e  iniU's   Innt', 
ill'  lor  tlio  niiiiieroiis  iind  liohi 
t  receives,  coiniiii;  down  (roia 
on    tlic   sontlieast,  all    rre!,li 
a  larire   lorination  of  rock 
n   red  clay,  is   lonnd   witliiii 
.-oiiliieast,  wiiicli  it  drains, 
atlliieiits  all'ord  lari.n'  troiil 
I  <;reat  ninnliers,  wliicli  con- 
ol   llie   l^l.ili    Indians  duriTij; 
ion.     Tiiedreat  Sail  lake  lia^ 
r  outline,  jricatly  extended  at 
r  snows.     It  is  aliont  seventy 
I  ;  Ih'IIi  lakes  ran^'inj;  nearly 
li,  in  conrorniilv  to  the  rann-o 
ns,  and  is  reinarkaMe  for  ii.s 
if  salt,     'I'lie  who'"  l.dvU  wa- 
■onfjhly  saturated  with   it,  and 
;ion   of  the   water  leaves  salt 
rocky  shores  ot'  the  islands  are 
le  s|iray,  which  leaves  salt  on 
touches,  and  a  coverinj;  like 
r  the  water,  which  the  waves 
In;  rocks.     The  shores  of  the 
■  season,  when  the  waters  re- 
■cially  on  the   south   side,  are 
I    incrustations  of  line  white 
low  arms  of  tho  lake,  at  the 
ler  a  slii;lit  coverini;  of  hriny 
;  heds  of  ,^alt  for    miles,   re- 
lied ice,  into  which  the  horses' 
-•  fetlock.     Plants  and  hushes, 
vind  upon  these  lields,  are  on- 
J  with  crystallized  salt,  more 
1  thickness.      Upon  this  lake 
h  water  received,  thonjrh  great 
IS  no  perce|)tihle  ellect.  '  \o 
lil'e  of  any  kind,  i.s  found  in 
)n  the  shore  heiiif;  found  to 
cd  insects.     A  gi'olonfical  e.v- 
10  bed  and  .shores  of  tlii.s  lake 
st  interest. 

of  water  taken  from  this  lake 
of  SeptomhiT,  and  roughly 
r  a  lire,  gave  fourteen  pint.s  oi' 
ivhicli  being  siilijecled  to  ana- 
following  proportions  : 

pans, 
hum  (common  salt)  .  97. «0 
cii'tii     .         .         .  O.tjl 

giicsium     .        .        .     0.24 
Jii  ...  0.-_'3 

le      .        .        .        .     I.ij 


UPON   dPl.<.R  Ca     KOUNIA. 


lOU.OC 


Southward  from  the  Utah  in  atiother  lake 
."f  which  lilile  more  is  now  known  than 
"lien  lluuiliolilt  piililished  his  goiienil  map 
c'  .Mexico.  Il  is  the  reservoir  of  a  liaiid- 
■niiie  ri\er,  alMiiit  two  hiiiidred  miles  loiiif, 
.-iuing  In  the  Wah-salch  ini.,i'it.uiis,  and  (lis- 
chargiiii;  a  considerable  volume  of  water. 
The  river  and  lake  werecalleil  hv  the  Span- 
iurdf,  iSViTo,  C'>rrupliil  by  the  hunters  into 
Srvjir,  On  (he  nia[i.  they  are  called  .ViVo/- 
/'■/,  in  honor  of  ./.  .\.  \ifiillii,  who>e  prema- 
ture death  interrupted  the  publication  of  the 
learned  work  on  the  physical  geography  of 
the  basin  of  the  Upiier  .Mississippi,  which  live 
yi.'ars  of  labor  in  tlio  Held  had  prepared  liiin 
to  give. 

On  the  western  fide  of  the  basin,  nnd 
immediately  within  the  first  range  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  is  the  I'vramid  lake,  receiving 
the  water  of  Salmon  Trout  river.  It  i.s 
thirty-five  miles  kmig,  between  four  and  five 
thousand  feet  aboM'  the  sea,  surrounded  by 
mountains,  is  remarkably  deep  and  clear,  and 
liboiiiids  with  uncommonly  large  salrnon  trout. 
Southward,  along  the  bas(f  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, is  a  range  of  considerable  lake.s,  form- 
ed by  many  large  streams  from  the  Sierra. 
Lake  Walker,  the  largest  among  these,  af- 
fords great  numbers  of  trout,  similar  to  those 
of  the  Pyramid  lake,  and  is  a  place  of  resort 
for  Inilians  in  tlu^  tisliing  season. 

There  are  jirobably  other  collec-tion.s  of 
water  not  yet  known.  'J'lie  number  of  small 
lakes  is  very  great,  many  of  them  more  or 
less  .sally,  and  all,  like  the  riv«,.s  which  feed 
them,  changing  their  appearance  and  extent 
under  the  inlliienceof  the  season,  rising  with 
the  melting  of  tlie  snows,  .^inking  in  I  lie  dry 
weather,  anil  distinctly  pre.senling  I  heir  high 
and  low  watermark.  Those  generally  alTord 
pome  lertile  and  well-watered  land,  cupuble 
of  settlement. 

Rivers  tif  llie  (liral  Rasin. — The  mo.st 
considerable  river  in  the  interior  of  the  (Jreat 
Basin  is  the  one  called  on  the  map  Humlxildt 
river,  as  tlie  mount;iins  at  its  head  are  called 
Humboldt  river  mountains — so  called  as  a 
small  mark  of  respect  tollie  "  .\i's/or  of  scien- 
ti/ic  tntcdlrrt:,"  who  ha.s  done  .so  much  to 
illustrate  North  American  geography,  with- 
out leaving  his  name  upon  any  one  of  its 
remarkable  features.  It  is  a  river  long  known 
to  hunters,  and  sometimes  sketched  on  rnap.s 
under  tho  name  of  Mary's,  or  Ogden'.s,  but 
now  for  the  lirst  time  laid  down  with  any 
precision.  It  is  a  very  peeiUiar  stream,  and 
has  many  characteristics  of  an  Asiatic  rivor 
— the  Jordan,  lor  e.xample,  though  twice  as 
long — rising  in  mountains  and  losing  it.self 
in  a  lake  of  its  own,  after  a  long  and  solitary 
course.  It  rises  in  two  streams  in  moun- 
tains west  of  the  (ireat  Salt  lake,  which 
unite,  after  some  lifly  miles,  and  bears  wcst- 
wardly  along  the  northern  side  of  the  basin 


townrd.s  the  (ireat  Sierra  Nevada, which  it  is 
di'>lini'd  never  to  reai  h,  nun  li  less  to  pass. 
The  nioimtains  in  which  il  n-es  ure  round 
and  hani'-ome  in  their  oulliiie.  capped  with 
snow  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  well 
clothed  wii')irrHHf>.  *nd  woml.  and  abuiulanl 
in  %'^'^..  *  iir  r.,ieam  i-  a  narrow  line, 
r.ilboiit  iillluen's,  •■.-iiig  h,  ;.^-inrptioii  and 
evapiirR.?i,.ii  hH  if  ijoes.  nnd  liTuiinaling  in  a 
iiinrsliy  lake,  wiili  low  .-hon's,  fringed  with 
bulrushes,  nnd  whitened  with  saline  nicrus- 
tations.  Il  has  a  iiinderate  current, is  Iroiii  two 
to  si.\  feet  deep  ni  the  dry  season,  and  jirolia- 
Lly  not  fordable  any  where  below  the  pinclion 
of  the  f.irks  during  the  lime  of  melting  siiow.'i, 
when  Soth  lake  anil  river  are  considerably 
CB.arged.  The  country  thnuigli  which  it 
passes  ^t  xcept  its  immediale  valley)  is  a  dry 
sandy  plain,  without  lifass,  wood,  or  arable 
sofl  ;  from  about  1,700  feet  (at  tho  forks;  to 
■t,20()  foot  (at  the  lake)  abow  tho  levid  of 
the  "sea,  windiiiLr  aiiionu'  broke-i  ranges  of 
mountains,  and  varviiiLT  from  a  few  miles  to 
twenty  in  breadih.  lis  own  iiinnediale  val- 
ley is  a  rich  alluvion.  I)eautilrny  covered 
with  blue-grass,  herd-grass,  clover,  iiid  other 
nutritious  grassivs  ;  and  its  coiirs  is  marked 
through  the  plain  by  a  lino  of  willow  and 
cotton-wood  trees,  serving  for  fuel.  Tho 
Indians  in  the  fall  set  tire  to  the  grass,  and 
destroy  all  trees  e.\cept  in  low  grounds  near 
the  water. 

This  river  pos.sesses  ipialities  which,  in 
the  proiiress  of  events,  in:  y  give  it  both 
value  and  fame.  Il  lies  on  the  line  of  travel 
to  California  and  Oregon,  and  is  the  best 
route  now  known  tlinnigh  the  (ireat  Hasin, 
and  the  one  travelled  by  emigrants.  Its  direc- 
tion, nearly  east  and  west,  is  the  right  course 
for  that  travel.  It  furnishes  a  levid  unolj- 
structed  way  for  nearly  throe  hundred  miles, 
and  a  continuous  supply  of  tho  in(lis|-,ensablo 
articles  of  water,  wood,  and  grass.  Its  iiead 
is  towanls  the  (Ireat  Salt  lake,  and  conse- 
quently towards  the  Mormon  settlement, 
which  must  become  a  point  in  tho  lino  of 
emigration  to  (California  and  the  lower  Co- 
lumbia. Its  terinination  is  within  lifty  miles 
of  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  oppo- 
site the  Salmon  Trout  river  pass — a  pass  only 
.seven  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  tho 
level  of  tho  sea.  and  less  than  half  that  above 
the  level  of  the  IJasin,  and  leading  into  the  val- 
ley of  tho  Sacramento,  some  forty  miles 
north  of  Niiova  Helvetia.  These  pro|)er- 
ties  give  to  this  river  a  |)rospectivo  value  in 
future  communications  with  the  I'acilic 
ocean,  and  the  prolile  view  on  the  north  of 
tho  map  shows  tho  elevations  of  the  present 
travelling  route,  of  which  it  is  a  |iart.  from 
the  South  pass,  in  tho  Rocky  '.jioiintaiiis,  to 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  other  principal  rivers  of  the  (Ireat 
13ashi  are  found  on  its  circmnferencc,  col 


w 


(jnnoRArnrrvi,  Mrniom 


lecliii^  llh'ir  Wiilcri*  Iroiii  tin'"  Simwy  iimiiii- 
i.u  H.  wiiii'li  ^Mrnlllllll  If,  mill  iirc,  i.  Uc.ah 
itiw.ii,  on  tliii  i'a!-l,  rising'  in  tlic  iim.i^ivc 
riiii,'(i  1)1'    till'   'riiii|)iiii()i,'iH   iiiiimiliiini   iiiid 

l.lllilli,'    into    llic     (il(';it     S.ljt    lilki'.    IlftiT    II 

(Iciiililiiijj  coursi'  llirmi^'li  ii  tciiili-  iind  |iictu- 
ri'jJiiur  Miili'v,  two  liiiiiili'cil  iiiiirs  Inni;.     2. 

Tlu'  I'i'AII  IJIVI.U  llllli  'l'l.MI.\NAIl/l:  or  'I'lMI'A- 

xoi.os.  ill^('li.iri.'iiii;  llicinx'lvc-i  iiit"  tlio  Ct.-ili 
lake  nil  till!  ciist.  iil'ii'r  iratln'riii;^  their  Cdni- 
oils  rtriMiiis  ill  till*  iiil|iiiiiiii;,'  part.'!  nf  1m> 
\Vi''i-sii'cli  llllli 'l"iiii|innoLriH  iiioiiiitaiii^.  ;}. 
Niriii.MiT  iiivr.i!.  ri-uiij,'  Miiitli  ill  till'  loni,' 
rail!,'!'  of  llin  Wiih-siiirk  inoiiiilaiiis,  niui 
ralliiiLr  iiiti)  II  laki-  ot'  its  own  iiaiiic,  iifliT 
iiialiinif  iin  iiralili'  mid  irrassy  viiili'y.  two 
liiiiKJi'i'il  mill's  in  lrii;.'lli,  tlirniiirji  nioiiiitaiii- 
oiis  c'liiiiilry.  4.  Salmon  Ti:oit  river,  on 
the  west,  riiiininjr  down  Cniiii  the  Sierm  Ne- 
vada mid  liillint;  into  I'yraiiiid  lake,  niter  a 
course  of  ahoiil  one  hiiiidn'd  miles.  I'Vom 
its  source,  ahoiif  one-third  of  its  valley  is 
tliroiii.r|i  a  |iiiii'-timhered  country,  and  for  the 
remiMMilcr  of  the  way  throiinh  verv  rockv, 
naked  riili,'es.  It  is  remarkable  for  tlio  iilmii- 
(lanee  and  excellence  of  its  salmon  trout, 
and  |ireseiil^  soint!  njrouiid  for  cultivation. 
a.  ('a::son  and  \Vai,ki;ii  rivers,  hot  Ii  hand- 
some rlear-wiiter  sire.ims.  nearly  one  liimdred 
miles  leiiMf,ciiiiiiii;r.  like  the  precediiiij.  down 
iheea.-tiTii  tlank  ol'  the  Sierra  Nevada  and 
forminjr  lakes  of  their  own  name  at  its  hase. 
They  c(intain  salmon  trout  and  other  lisli, 
and  form  some  larife  hothims  of  ijond  land. 
G.  <)wi:ns  hivki!,  issuing.'  from  the  Sierra 
Nevada  on  the  south,  is  a  larire  hold 
Hlream  ahoiit  one  hiindreil  and  twenty  miles 
loiirj,  (Tuiheriiiir  its  waters  in  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, lliiwin;,'  to  the  southward,  anil  forminij 
a  lake  ulioiit  ilfteen  miles  Imij^r  at  the  hase  of 
the  mountain.  At  a  medimii  staije  it  is  j;eii. 
3rally  four  or  live  feet  deep,  in  places  iifteen  ; 
wooded  with  willow  and  cotton-wond,  and 
makes  continuous  bottoms  of  fertile  land,  nt 
intervals  rendered  marshy  hv  sprin^^s  mid 
small  allluents  tVoui  the  iiiountain.  'J'lie 
water  of  the  lake  in  which  it  terminatos  has 
an  iin|ileasant  smell  and  had  taste,  hut 
around  its  shores  are  found  small  streams  of 
pure  water  ^\'illl  jiood  irrass.  On  the  map 
this  has  been  called  Ovkkns  river. 

Besides  these  principal  rivers  issuinn;  from 
the  mountains  on  the  circumference  of  the 
Great  liasm.  there  are  many  others,  all 
around,  all  oheyinir  the  ;^'eneral  law  of  losinj^ 
themselves  in  sands,  or  lakes,  or  belts  of 
alluvion,  and  almost  all  of  them  an  inde.x 
to  some  arable  land,  with  ^rpass  and  wood. 

Intvrliir  nf  thr  (Irtat  Jiia^in, — The  interior 
of  the  fireat  Hasin,  so  far  as  e.xjilored,  is 
found  to  he  a  succession  of  sharp  mountain 
ranires  and  naked  |ilains,  such  as  have  been 
described.  These  ranj^es  are  isolated,  ])re- 
scnting   summit  lines    broken    into    many 


|ieaks,  of  which  the  hiijhput  nro  liotweeit  ten 

and  eleven  thousand  I'eet  iiIkiVi'  the  t-t'-.i. 
'I'hey  are  thinly  wiuHled  with  some  varirtiej 
of  pine,  (jiiiiiis  niiiiiiiphi/lliis  characteristic,) 
(••Hliir,  iHpen.  and  u  few  other  trees;  niiil  ri;" 
lord  an  excelli'iit  ipiality  of  hunch  '.n'Mw^ 
eijiial  to  any  loiind  in  the  Kncky  iiioiiii>,i!u-. 
liiack-laileil  di'iT  and  nioiintain  sheep  ar.; 
Ireipieiit  in  these  mountains;  which,  in  con- 
sidrratioii  of  their  <rrass,  water,  and  wood, 
and  the  alluvion  at  their  hase,  may  be  called 
fertile,  in  the  railical  sen.-e  of  the  word,  as 
siyfiiifyini;  a  capacity  to  pmiliice.  or  bear,  mid 
in  colli radi~linct ion  tii^lerllity.  In  this  sens.-i 
those  interior  iiioiiniains  may  he  called  fertile. 
Sterility,  on  the  cmilrary,  is  the  ahsohite 
characteristic,  of  the  valleys  between  the 
inoimtains — no  woinI,  no  water,  no  frrass  ; 
the  (.'liiomy  arteinisia  the  prevailiiii.'  shriili — 
no  animals,  except  the  hares,  w'J  Mi  shelter 
in  these  shrubs,  and  lleet  and  timid  antelope, 
always  on  the  watch  for  dau;,'er,  and  tindinjj 
no  place  too  dry  and  barren  which  fjives  it  a 
wide  horizon  for  its  view  and  a  clear  Held  tor 
its  lliirht.  No  birds  are  .seen  in  the  plains, 
and  lew  on  the  mnuntains.  Hut  few  Indians 
are  found,  and  those  In  ilw  lowest  state  of 
human  (vxistence;  livini;  not  even  in  coin- 
ninnities,  hut  in  ilu'  elementary  state  of  fa- 
milies, and  somelimes  a  siiiijlo  individual  to 
himself — except  about  the  lakes  stocked  with 
tisli,  which  become  thi'  property  and  resort 
of  u  small  tribe.  The  ahuudancoaiul  excel- 
lence of  the  li.li,  in  most  of  these  lakes,  is  a 
characteristic;  and  the  lishiiiii;  season  is 
to  the  Indians  the  happy  season  of  the 
year, 

('limalc  of  the  Urral  liasin.—Tho  climato 
of  the  Great  Hasin  does  not  |iresent  the  rij^or- 
ous  winter  due  to  its  elevation  and  mountain- 
ous structure.  Observations  made  durinjr 
the  last  expedition,  show  that  around  the 
southern  shores  of  the  Salt  lake,  latitude  10° 
30',  to  41°,  for  two  weeks  of  the  month  of 
October,  18,3,'i,  from  the  L^tli  to  the  ;27th, 
the  mean  temperature  was  41)°  at  sunrise, 
70°  nt  noon,  and  .51°  at  sunset ;  rani^nnif  at 
sunrise  from  M°  to  ,57°  ;  at  noon  from  ()2° 
to7<)":i  at  four  in  the  afleriionn,  from  .58° 
to  Oi)°  ;  and  at  sunset,  from  47°  to  ,57°. 

Until  the  middle  of  the  month  the  weather 
remained  fair  and  very  pleasant.  On  the 
1.5lli,  it  bepin  to  rain  in  occa'^ional  showers, 
which  whitened  with  snow  the  tops  of  the 
mountains  on  the  south-eastern  side  of  tho 
valley.  Flowers  were  in  bloom  durinir  all 
the  month.  About  the  18th,  on  one  of  tho 
larjfe  islands  in  the  south  of  the  lake, 'ii'/(a«- 
lliiis,  several  s])ecies  of  nskr,  cradinm,  cicUf 
tiiriiim,  and  several  other  plants,  were  in 
fn^sli  and  full  bloom  ;  the  fjrass  of  the  sec- 
ond growth  was  cominrf  up  tuiely,  and  veirc- 
tation,  ironerally,  betokoncJ  tlio  lengthened 
Slimmer  of  the  clunate. 


til.'  liifliiMf  nr(>  liofxvcrn  i.^n 
iiwmil    li'i't   hImivc   till,    s  .;,. 
\V(iimIc(I  with  Willie  \iirir|ii-.' 
mnwiphijlliis  cliariicti'ivlic,; 
I  11  ti'u-  oilier  Irci'.-i ;  niid  ri:' 
It    (|il;ility   of    ImiiicIi    '_'r!i  w, 
■  I  ill  till'  |{(irky  iiiMiiiiijiu., 
Mini    niiiiiiitiiln    hlicrp  ar.; 
iiioiiiitaiiH  ;  wliich,  in  (.m. 
ir  ^'rllss,  sviifiT,  iiiid  woo,!. 
it  llii'ir  liiisc,  iniiy  !"•  cilli'il 
iilii'iil   hciiM-  (if  |li(«  wiinl.  MS 
city  til  |iniiliii'ii,  or  liivir.  iiiid 
oii'tii-lcrility.     [nllii^  sciisn 
iirii.-iins  iiiiiy'hi'Ciillcil  fiTtiic. 
I'niiiriiry,  is   the   iilisniiitf' 
f    llic    ^■ll"lll•y,^  lift  ween    llio 
wimmI,   lid   uiitcr,  Ml)  (.rniss  ; 
iiii-i:i  till-  prc'vailiii;/  i<liriili — 
|it   till'  liari'-i,  w'.  ■•Ii  slii-ltcr 
ami  lI'M't  anil  tiiiiiil  aiit('li)[ii', 
iiiti-ii  lor  (lMii;r('r,  anil  tiiidiiijr 
•  and  liarri'ii  uliicli  j,'ivcs  it  a 
r  its  view  and  a  cit'iir  licld  lor 
lirds  aro  seen  in  the  plains, 
noiintains.     Hut  lew  Indians 
tliosi'  in  till'  lcnvi>st  slato  of 
'«;  livini;  not  cvfii  in  coin- 
ilio  cli'ini'iitary  Mate  of  fa- 
cliiiii's  a  .siiii,'lo  individual  In 
about  llio  lakes  storked  with 
inii>  llii>  |iro|i('rty  and  rosort 
'I'lie  aliiindancoand  cxccl- 
1.  in  most  of  these  luken,  is  a 
and   the  lishinir  season    ia 
tho   hajipy   season  of   the 

rdrrnt  Basin. — Tho  climate 
<in  dons  not  prpsont  tho  rij^or- 

0  its  elevation  and  monntain- 
Obsorvations  made   diirinir 

lion,  show  tiiat  tironnd  the 
of  tho  Salt  lake,  latitude  10° 

two  weeks  of  the  month  of 
from  the   13tli  to  the  27t]i, 

leratiire  was  40°  at  siiiiriso, 

1  51°  at  sunset ;  ranj,nnif  at 
>°  to  .')7"  ;  at  noon  from  ()2° 

in  the  al'lernoon,  from  tjS" 
sunset,  from  -17°  to  ,57°. 
lie  of  the  month  the  weather 
ml  very  pleasant.     On   the 
1  rain  in  oceasional  showers, 

witli  snow  the  tops  of  tho 
le  south-eastern  side  of  tho 
s  were  in  bloom  diirinn;  all 
Jilt  the  18tli.  on  one  of  tho 
he  south  of  the  lake,  hflian- 
'cies  of  nslcr,  n-niHiini,  ciai- 
era!  other  plants,  were  in 
loom  ;  the  frrass  of  the  sec- 
comin(T  lip  lini'ly,  and  ve(,'e- 
,  hetokoiicd  the'  lengthoncd 
limate. 


UPON  nrpun  <\\mi'()UN1a. 


'I'l'.e  Ifith.  17lli,  and  Istli.  Hloriiiv  with 
rain  ;  limvy  at  ni^rlil  ;  praks  of  the  jji'iir 
river  raiiL'e  and  tops  of  »lie  iiionniains  con- 
erod  with  >iiow.  On  the  IHih.  clearrd  with 
weiilher  like  iliat  of  late  sprinjr.  nnd  con- 
iinned  mild  and  cle.ir  until  the  end  of  the 
month,  w  lii'ii  the  line  weather  wih  iiKiiiii  in- 
terrupted liy  a  ilav  or  two  of  rain.  Nohmow 
within  -'.on'o  feel  above  the  level  of  the  valley. 

,\iTo-s  llie  ii'lei-ior.  between  lalilndes  li° 
and  '.iH°,  diirini.'  the  nionlli  of  November, 
(."jtli  toL'iVli.)  the  ni'-aii  tempenitiire  was  lMI" 
nt  binirise.  and  10*  at  sniiset  ;  ran(,nn;r  at 
noon  (by  detiched  (ib^rrviltiuns)  between  11" 
and  tii»°.  'There  was  a  snow  storm  between 
the  Ith  and  7th.  the  snnw  falliii!.'  principally 
at  niicht.  and  snii  occasioimilv  breaking'  out 
in  the  day.  Tlie  lower  iiilis  and  \.illeys 
vvere  covered  a  few  inches  deep  with  snow, 
'<  liich  the  sun  carried  oil"  in  a  few  hours  after 
U*'  storm  was  over. 

'i'lie  weatliiT  then  continued  nninterrnpt- 
rdly  open  iiiilil  the  clo^i'of  the  year,  withont 
rain  or  snow  ;  and  diiriiii;  the  remiinder  of 
November,  yi'ii' rally  clear  and  beautiful  ; 
ni|.'lilsand  morniii;,''' calm,  a  liu'bt  bree/.e  dil- 
rinjj  the  day,  and  stroni,'  winds  of  very  rare 
occurrence.  .Snow  remained  only  on  the 
peaks  of  the  inoiintains. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  basin,  aloiif; 
the  base  of  the  Sirrrn  .\ir(iilii,  iliirinu  two 
weeks,  I'rom  the  2.")lli  .\(ivtml>''r  to  the  llth 
/A'o //i/"'/',  the  mean  lemperatiire  at  Minrisi; 
was  11'^,  and  at  siiiwet  ;i  1°  ;  raiiijinijaf  sun- 
rise from  z"ro  to  Jl".  at  sunset  from  'Si°  to 
44".  For  ten  consecutive  days  of  the  s.ame 
period,  the  mean  temperatnro  at  noon  was 
45°,  ran;,'inLr  tiom  :!;!°  to  6t)". 

Tho  weather  remained  open,  usually  very 
cle.ar,  and  tlu'  rivers  were  frozen. 

The  winter  of  '  i:}-'44,  within  the  basin, 
was  remarkable  for  the  same  open,  pleasant 
weather,  rarely  interrupted  by  rain  or  snow. 
In  lact,  there  is  nothini.'  in  the  climatis  of 
this  ixreat  interior  rejrioii,  elevated  as  it  i.s, 
and  snrroinided  and  tr.iversed  by  snowy 
mountains,  to  prevent  civilized  ni:in  from 
makin;,'  it  bis  home,  and  liiidin^'  in  its  arable 
parts  till.'  m"aiis  of  a  coinl'ortable  subsis- 
tence; and  this  the  Mormons  v.ill  probably 
poon  prove  in  the  parts  about  the  (ireat  Salt 
lake.  The  pni;jress  of  their  settlement  is 
already  jfreat.  On  the  lirsl  of  April  of  the 
present  year,  they  had  3.000  acres  in  wheat, 
seven  saw  and  irrist  mills,  seven  hundred 
houses  in  a  fortitied  inclosnrc  of  si.vty  nere.>, 
."Stock,  and  other  accompaniments  of  u  flour- 
ishing settlement. 

Such  is  the  (Jreat  liasin.  iierctofore  char- 
acterized as  a  desert,  and  in  some  respect;)  ' 
meritinir  that   appellation  ;  but   already  de- 
mandiiiLr  the  ijiiililication  of  j/reat  exceptions, 
and  deserviiijr  the  full  (.'xaminalion  of  a  thor-  , 
ough  exploration.  , 


MA  11 1  riMi: 


i:KiiiiiN    wr.tT  OK 

Ni:VAIi.\. 


II 


rilC.     MIEURi 


Wisr  of  the  Sir.iiiiA  NiVAiiA,  and  Ik> 
Iween  ih.it  moiiiilain  and  the  ^m,  is  (ht! 
second  erand  diM-ion  o|  ( 'alifcrniii,  iinij  tlir 
only  part  to  which  the  name  iippliei  in  the 
ciirrenl  biiiL'uaee  of  the  coutitrv.  It  is  the 
occupied  'ind  inhabited  jiart.  and  so  dillerent 
ill  character — .xi  divideil  bv  the  iiioiin'ain 
w.ill  of  ill'  Sie.Tii  from  l!i'-  (ireal  HaMii 
iibove — us  to  constitute  a  region  to  itself, 
with  II  structure  and  conlij.Mira!;iiii — n  ("oil, 
climate,  iind  productions — of  its  o'vn  ;  and 
ns  iiorihern  I'ersia  may  lie  refi  red  ti  an 
.•"Oiiii'  type  of  the  former,  so  may  Italy  bo  rn- 
ferreil  tons  some  iioiiit  o|' coiiipari-oii  for  tho 
latter.  North  and  south.  thi<  region  embra- 
ces about  ten  de^'rei's  of  latitinl'  — Ir  mi  ,'JJ", 
where  it  touches  the  jieniniula  of  Ciliforniii, 
to  1J°,  where  it  iHiiinds  on  Ore;;on.  Kast 
and  we-t.  from  the  Si'Tra  N'e\;iil,i  to  the  sen, 
it  will  averam'.  in  the  middle  |i.irls,  l.'jo  miles  ; 
in  the  northern  jiarls  •JOO — j.'i\iiij.'  anareaof 
above  one  hundred  thousand  Sipi.ire  inilos. 
Iiookinif  westward  from  the  summit  of  llio 
Sierra,  tho  main  fe.iture  presented  is  tho 
Ion;;,  low,  broad  valley  of  the  .loaipiin  and 
Sacramento  rivers — the  two  valleys  forming 
one — live  hundred  miles  Imi^'  and  til'ly  broan, 
lyinjr  aloii^r  the  base  of  the  Sierra,  and 
bounded  to  tho  west  by  the  low  coast  ran^fO 
of  mountains,  wdiicli  separates  it  from  tho 
pea.  Lon;;  dark  lines  ot  timber  indicate  tho 
streams,  and  briijfht  spots  mark  the  interve- 
niny:  jilains.  Lateral  ran^res,  parallel  to  tho 
Sierra  Nevada  and  the  coast,  make  thi;  struc- 
ture of  the  country  and  break  it  into  a  sur- 
face of  valleys  and  mountains — the  valleys  a 
few  hundred,  and  the  mountains  two  to  four 
llionsand  feel  above  the  sea.  'I'heso  form 
jrreater  masses,  and  become  ni'ire  elevated  in 
the  north,  where  some  peaks,  in  the  Sliasll, 
enter  the  reirions  of  per|)etiial  siiow.^ 
Stretched  alon^r  the  mild  coa-t  of  tho  I'li- 
cilic.  with  a  ijeiieral  elevation  in  its  plains 
and  \alleys  oi' only  a  tew  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea — and  backed  by  the  lonir 
and  lolly  wall  of  the  Sierra — inililneB.s  and 
fienialily  may  be  assumed  as  the  cliaractor- 
islic  of  its  chmate.  'I'he  inhabitant  of  cor- 
re-;])iindiii;;  latitudes  on  the  Atlantic  side  of 
this  conliiienl  can  with  dilliciilly  conceive  of 
the  soft  air  and  southern  productions  under 
the  same  latitudes  in  the  mariliiiK^  recrion  of 
Upper  ("alifornia.  The  sin^^fular  beauty  and 
puritv  of  the  sky  in  the  south  of  this  rejrion 
is  characterized  by  Humboldt  as  a  rare  phe- 
nomenon, and  all  travelers  realize  the  truth 
of  his  description. 

The  present  condition  of  the  country  af- 
fords but  slifrhl  data  for  fonnini;  correct 
opinions  of  the  agricultural  ca|iicity  and  fer- 
tility of  the  soil.     Vancouver  found,  at  tJie 


12 


r.EOORAFillCAL  MKMOIR 


mission  of  ,S:iii  nnoiiavoiitMi-a,  in    17it-J.  l;ili- 
tiidp  31°  Hi',  iiiiplc-;,  prar:^,  pliiiiis,  liL'>.  or.ni- 
fps,   firnpf-J,    pcaclio^,   mill    ponipiiriuiiilcs. 
iTrowinjr  tojirtJKM-  Willi  tlic  pliuitiun.  Inniinii, 
cocnnniit,   sii;>-i\r-c;nif',  nnd   ilidiijrn,  nil  yioltl- 
iiii^    fruit   in   jiliMMilancp   and   of    oxnOl-'iit 
qiwdity.     1  liniilioldt  niontions  the  olive  oil  of 
(JalifoVnia  as  eipial  to  that  of  Ai\(laliisia,  and 
liio  vvine  like  that  of  the  Canary   Islands 
At  present.  Inil  little  remains  of  the  iii<:li  and 
varions  cultivation  which  had  hoen  attained 
at  the  niissioiH.     Under  the  mild  and  pater- 
nal administration  of  the  "  Falliers"  the  do- 
cile character  id'  the  Indians  was  made  availa- 
ble for  lahor.  and   thousands   were  employed 
in  the  lields,  tlie  orchards,  and  the  vineyards. 
At  present,  hnt  little  of  this  former  cuhiva- 
tion  is  seen.     The  fertile  valleys  are  over- 
grown  with    will!   mustard  ;  vineyards  nnd 
olive  orchards,  decayed  and  nefrlected,  are 
aiiionff  the  remaininif  vesti^'es  ;  only  in  some 
places  do  we  see  the  evidences  of  what  the 
country  is  capable.     At  San  B.'enavenlura 
we  foii'nd  the  o!iv(>  trees,  in  January,  hendin<f 
under  the  weiiiht  of  nefjlected  fruit ;  and  the 
mission  of  San  Luis  Ohispo  (latitude  35°)  is 
still  di.sliniiuished   for  the  excellence  of  its 
olives,  considered  fuier  and  larger  than  those 
of  the  Mediterranean. 

Tiie  productions  of  the  south  differ  from 
those  of  tlie  north  and  of  tlie  middle.  Grapes, 
olives,  Indian  corn,  have  been  its  staples, 
with  many  assimilated  fruits  and  grains.  To- 
bacco has  been  recently  introduced  nnd  tlie 
uniform  s\ni.iner  heat  wiiich  follows  the  wet 
season,  and  is  munterrupted  by  rain,  would 
make  the  sinithern  country  well  adapted  (o 
cotton.  Wheat  is  the  iirst  product  of  tlie 
north,  where  it  always  constituted  tiie  prin- 
cipal cultivation  of  the  missions.  This  promi- 
ses to  be  the  irrain  p-rowinfi  reirion  of  Cali- 
fornia. The  moisture  of  t'le  coast  seems 
particularly  suited  to  the  ,,otato  and  to  the 
vegetables  couunon  to  the  United  States, 
wliich  grow  to  an  extraordinary  size. 

Perhaps  few  parts  of  the  world  can  pro- 
duce in  such  perfection  so  great  a  variety  of 
fruits  and  grains  as  the  large  and  various  re- 
gion inclosing  the  i)ay  of  San  Francisco, 
and  drained  by  its  waters.  A  view  of  the 
map  will  show  that  region  and  its  great 
extent,  comprehending  the  entire  valleys  of 
the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  and  the 
wliolo  western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
General  phrases  fail  to  give  proci.se  ideas, 
and  I  have  recourse  to  the  notes  in  my  jour- 
nal to  show  its  climate  and  productions  by 
the  test  of  the  thermometer  and  the  state  of 
the  vegetable  kingdom. 

VALLEYS  OF  TIIE  SAORAMRNTO  ANO  SAN   JOA- 

guiN. 
These  valleys  are  one,  discriminated  only 
by  the  names  of  the  rivers  whicii  traverse  it. 


It  is  a  sinirle  valley — a  single  geographical 
formation— near  .'jno  miles  Ion;:,  lying  at  the 
western  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  be- 
tvveiMi  it  anil  the  coast  range  of  mountains, 
and  stretchinir  across  the  head  of  the  bry 
of  San  Francisco,  with  wliich  a  ihlla  ot 
iwenty-tive  miles  connects  it.  Tiio  two 
rivers!^  San  Joatpiin  a:nl  Sacramento,  rise  at 
opposite  ends  of  this  long  valley,  receive  nu- 
merous streams,  many  of  thein  bold  rivers, 
from  the  Sierra  Nevada,  bi-conie  themselves 
navigable  rivers,  tlow  towa.d  each  other, 
meet"'  half  way,  and  enter  the  bay  of  San 
Francisco  tosjether,  in  the  region  of  tide 
water,  making  a  continuous  water  lino  from 
one  end  to  the  other. 

The  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  is  about 
300  miles  long  and  (iO  broad,  between  the 
slopes  of  the  coast  mountain  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  -vith  a  general  elevation  of  only  a 
few  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
It  presents  a  variety  of  soil,  from  dry  and 
unproductive  to  well  watered  and  luxuriantly 
fertile.     Tiie  eastern  (which  is  the  fertile) 
side  of  the  valley  is  intersected  with  nuiner- 
ous  streams,  forming  large  and  very  beautiful 
bottoms  of   fertile  land,  wooded   jirincipally 
with  white  oaks  ((jucrciis  Idiifii^lamld,  Torr. 
and    Frem.)    in   open   groves  of   handsome 
trees,  often  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter,  and 
sixty  to  eighty  feet  high.     Only  the  larger 
streams,  which  are  fifty  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  wide,  and  drain  the  upper  pans 
of  the  monntiiins,  pass  entirely  across   the 
valley,  forming  the  Tulare  lakes  and  the  San 
Joaqiiin  river,  wliich,   in  the  rainy  season, 
make  a  continuous  stream  from  the  head  ot 
the  valley  to  the  liay.     The ./»()/  hills  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  which  limit  the  valley,  make 
a  woodland  country,  diversified   with  undu- 
lating grounds  nnd  pretty  valleys,  and  water- 
ed   with    numerous    small    streams,    which 
I  reach  only  a  few  miles  beyond  the  hills,  the 
1  springs  which  supply  thein  not  being  conious 
enough   to  carry  thein   across  the    plains. 
'  These  aflbrd  many  advantageous    spots  for 
''  farms,  making  sometimes  large  bottoms  of 
'  rich  moist  land.     The  rolling  surface  of  the 
:  hills   presents   sunny   exposures,    sheltered 
!  from  the  winds,  andhavii'g  a  highly  fovora- 
I  ble  climate  and  suitable  soil,  are  considered 
to  be  well  adapted  to  the  ciillivation  of  the 
'■-  grape,  and  will  probably  become  the  princi- 
pal vine  growing  region  of  ("ahforni  i      The 
uplands  bordering  the   valleys  of  .ue  largo 
streams  are  usually  wooded  with  evergreen 
oaks,  and  the  intervening  plains  are  timbered 
with  groves  or  belts  of  evergreen  and  wniie 
oaks   among   prairie   and  o|)en   land.     The 
,  surface  of  the  valley  consists  of  level  plains 
'  along  the   Tiilarfe  'lakes   and   San  Joanum 
river'^  changing  into  undulating  and  rolling 
ground  nearer  the   foot  hills  of  the  moun- 
tains. 


liPON   l.Tl'tlll  CAI-Il'"OKN[A. 


13 


illoy — ;i  siiip;le  frpofrr;iphira'i 

■  ."jiio  miles  Imiir,  lyiii^'  iit  the 
:'  the  Sii'i-m  Nc'vaila,  ami  be- 
e  coast  ran<;o  of  ino(in!.iins, 
across  the  hpa<l  of  iho  Wy 
SCO,  witli  which  a  d'Ua  o' 
los  coiiiipcts  it.  Tiio  two 
luin  a:Ml  Sacraiiionto,  risu  at 

■  this  loiinf  valley,  receive  lui- 
i.  many  o(  them  hold  rivers, 

Nevada,  hecoine  themselves 
s,  tlow  towa.d  each  other, 
,  and  enter  the  hay  of  San 
•ther,  in  the  region  of  tide 
a  continiions  water  lino  from 
)ther. 
if  the  San  Joaquin  is  about 

and  (iO  broad,  between  the 
Mst  motuitain  and  the  Sierra 
I  pfcncral  elevation  of  only  a 
et  above  the  level  of  the  .sea. 
variety  of  soil,  from  dry  and 
)  well  watered  and  luxuriantly 
eastern  (which  is  the  fertile) 
ey  is  intersected  with  ntiiner- 
rminj;  larn;o  and  very  beautiful 
•tile  land,  wooded  jirincipally 
s  {(]urrcii!i  l(iniri;^l(i)id(t,  Torr. 
1  open  frrovps  of  handsonio 
)  or  .six  feet  in  diameter,  and 

feet  high.     Only  the  larger 

are  fifty  to  one  hundred  and 
e,  and  drain  the  upper  pans 
ins,  pass  entirely  across  the 
;  the  Tuhirc  lakes  and  the  San 

wiiicli,  in  the  rainy  season, 
ions  stream  frou\  the  head  ot 
10  bay.  Theyi")/  hilh  of  the 
,  which  limit  the  valley,  inake 
)mitry,  diversilied  with  nndu- 
and  pretty  valleys,  and  water- 
lerous  small  streams,  which 
>w  miles  beyond  the  hills,  the 
supply  them"  not  being  copious 
rry  tliein  across  the  plains, 
many  advantageous  spots  for 
f  sonu^times  large  bottoms  of 
i.     The  rolling  surface  of  tlie 

sunny  exposures,  sheltered 
■:,  and  havii'g  a  highly  favora- 
;l  suitable  soil,  are  considered 
ipted  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
1  probably  becnmo  the  princi- 
ng  region  of  (!a!iforni  i  The 
ring  the  valleys  of  uie  largo 
sually  woodedwith  evergreen 
intervening  plains  are  timbered 
•  belts  of  evergreen  and  wniie 
prairie   and  o|)en   land.     The 

valley  consists  of  level  plains 
darfe  lakes  and  San  Joanum 
g  into  \uidulating  and  rolling 
r  the   foot  hills  of  the  moun- 


A  condensed  notice  from  ohserva'ions, 
;Tr;de  diu-iuii'  several  journeys  through  the 
■  alliv,  will  serve  to  give  seme  detiuite  iileas 
iif  its  f  hmate  and  character. 

We  left  the  upper  settlements  of  New 
Il'.^'.vetia  on  the  Mth  December,  and,  passing 
ihiou!;h  the  groves  of  oak  which  border  the 
ilio  (le  los  Americanos,  directed  our  course 
in  a  southeasterly  direction  across  a  plain 
toward  the  Rio  de  los  Cos-um-nes,  a  hand- 
some, well-wooded  stream,  about  thirty  yards 
wide.  The  Cos-mii-ni'  ln<iians,  who  give 
name  to  this  river,  have  been  driven  away 
from  it  within  a  few  years,  and  disperseil 
among  other  tribes  j  and  several  farms,  ot 
■some  leagues  in  extent,  have  already  been 
established  on  the  lower  part  of  the  stream. 
We  encamped  at  one  of  these,  about  eight 
miles  above  the  juiu'tion  of  the  Cos-nm-ne 
river  with  the  51o-kel-um-ne,  which  a  few 
miles  below  enters  a  deep  slough  in  the  tide 
vater  of  the  San  .loatjuin  deltir. 

At  this  place  the  temperature  at  sunset 
pas  55".  and  at  sunrise  'J7°. 

Our  road  on  the  loth  was  over  the  plain 
between  the  Cos-\un-no  and  Mo-kel-um-ne 
rivers,  inclining  toward  the  mount-ains.  We 
crossed  several  wooded  sloughs,  with  ponds 
of  deep  water,  which,  nearer  the  foot  hills, 
are  running  streams,  with  largo  bottoms  of 
fertile  land  ;  the  greater  part  of  our  way 
being  through  open  woods  of  evergreen  and 
other  oaks.  The  rainy  season,  which  com- 
monly begins  with  November,  had  not  yet 
comu'ienced,  and  the  Mo-kel-um-ne  river  was 
at  the  lowest  stage  usual  to  the  dry  season, 
and  easily  forded.  This  .stream  is  about  sixty 
yards  wide,  and  the  immediate  valley  some 
thirty  or  forty  feet  below  the  upland  plain. 
It  has  broad  alluvial  bottoms  of  very  fertile 
soil — sometimes  live  hundred  yards  wide, 
bounded  bv  a  low  uplanil.  wooded  with  ever- 
green oaks.  The  weather  in  the  evening 
was  calm,  the  sky  mottled  with  clouds,  and 
the  t(Miiperature  at  sunset  52^. 

Leaving  the  Mo-kel-um-ne,  (December 
IG.)  we  travelled  about  twenty  miles  through 
open  woods  of  white  oak.  crossing  in  the 
way  several  stream  beds— among  them  the 
Calaveras  creek.  These  have  abundant 
water,  with  good  land  above  ;  and  the  Calav- 
eras makes  some  remarkably  handsome  bot- 
toms. I.-suing  from  the  woods,  we  rode 
about  sixteen  miles  over  an  open  prairie, 
partly  covered  with  bunch-grass,  the  tiniber 
i-eapneariu'j;  on  the  rolling  liills  of  the  river 
Stanislaus  in  the  usual' belt  of  evergreen 
oaks.  The  river  valley  was  about  forty  feet 
below  the  upland,  and  the  stream  seventy 
yards  broad,  making  the  nstial  fertile  bottoms, 
which  here  were  covered  with  green  grass 
imeng  larsre  oaks.  We  encamped  in  one 
of  these  botinms.  in  a  grove  of  the  large 
white  oakf  pr-vioii.sly  mentioned,  as  qmrcus 


Iniii^iiihiniln  {'Varr.  and  Frnn.)  'fhis  oak 
is  a  new  species,  belingini:  to  tiie  division 
of  white  oaks,  dislingnished  by  the  length  of 
its  acorn,  which  is  connnoidy  an  inch  ami  a 
half,  and  sometini'^s  two  inches.  This  Ion;; 
acorn  characterizes  the  tree,  which  h:,s  ac- 
cordingly been  specitied  by  Dr.  Torrey  as 
(jiiin-iis  li)niii'j;litud(t  —  (loug-acorn  oak.*) 
'I'he  tree  attains  frefjuently  a  diameter  of  six 
feet,  and  a  height  of  eighty  feet,  with  a  wide 
spreading  head.  The  many  varieties  of  do- 
ciduous  and  evergreen  oaks,  which  predom- 
inate thror.ghout  'he  valleys  and  lower  hills 
of  the  mountains,  atford  largo  (|uautities  of 
acorns,  which  constitute  the  principal  food 
of  the  Indians  of  that  region.  Their  great 
abundance,  in  the  midst  of  fine  pasture 
lands,  nuist  make  them  an  important  element 
in  the  agricultural  economy  of  the  country. 
The  day  had  been  very  warm,  and  at  sun- 
set the  temperature  was  55",  and  the  weather 
clear  and  calm. 

At  simrise  iu?xt  morning,  the  thermometer 
was  at  •X-l°,  with  a  light  wind  from  the  Sierra, 
N.  75"  Fi.,  and  a  clear,  pure  sky,  in  which 
the  blue   line  of  the  mountain  showed  dis- 
tinctly.    The  way,  for  ihout  three  miles,  was 
through  open  woods  of  evergreen  and  other 
oaks,''witli    some    shrubbery   intermingled. 
Among  this  was  a  lu\nnuf:  of  extraordinary 
size,  not  yet  in  bloom.     Emerging  from  the 
woods,  we  travelled  in  a  southeasterly  direc- 
tion, over  a  prairie  of  rolling  land,  the  ground 
In^coming  somewhat  more  broken  as  v,c  ap- 
proacheirthe  To-wal-um-ne  river,  one  of  the 
fmest  tributaries  of  the  San  Joaquin.     The 
iiills  were  generally  covered  with  a  species 
of  geranium,  {erod'ium  ciciilarium,)  a  valua- 
blefilant  for  stock,  considered  very  nutritious. 
W'ith  this  was  frequently  interspersed  good 
and  greeii  bunch-grass,  and    a  plant  com- 
I  monly  called  bur  clover.     This  plant,  which 
!  in  some  places  is  very  abundant,  bears  a.  spi- 
i  rally  twisted  pod,  tilled  with  seeds,  which  re- 
I  mains  on  the  grouiul  during  the  dry  season, 
I  well  preserved,  and  affords  good  food  for  cat- 
I  tie  until  the  spring  rains  bring  out  new  grass. 
'  We   started   a   band  of  wild  horses  on  ap- 
i  preaching  the  river,  and  the  Indians  ran  olf 
from  aviUage  on  the  baidv— the  num  lurking 
I  round  to  observe  us.     About  tlieir  huts  were 
I  the  usual  ucorn  rrihs.  containing  each  some 
i  twenty  or  thirty  bushels.     We  foinii!  here 
'  ')road  bottoms  of  alluvial 
oaks  of 


excellent  grass,  and 
land,  open-wooded,  with  large  white 
the  new  species.  The  thermometer,  at  sun- 
set, was  54^.5,  with  i.  calm,  clear  atmo.s- 
phere.  Multitudes  of  gee. c  and  other  wild 
fowl  made  the  night  noisy. 

In  the  morning,  the  sky  was  clear,  with 
an  air  from  S.  55  E.,  and  a' hoar  frost  cover- 

*  The  n:im«  i.f  plants  mcnlioned  in  tliis  memoir  rest 
on  the  authority  ..f  Dr.  Torrey,  hy  whom  llie  specimeiif 
have  been  exaniineil. 


r 


14 


GEOGRAnilCAL  MHMOIR 


iiii;  thf'  ST"!"!''  'i'i''  i*  liirli'  Tall  of  snow. 
At  Minri.-c.  Ilii' thf'riiKiiiicti'r  WHS  ■2\°J).  Our 
coiirsi'  MOW  in('iiii''(l  niorc  towiinls  the  loot  of 
tlif  inoiiiitaiii.  inid  led  ovi'r  a  lirolicii  ciniii- 
Iry.  Ill  about  17  miles  we  rcarlicil  llio  river 
Aii.\-iiii.-n',  aiinliier  lar^jo  iilllueiit  to  llie 
►•'ail  Joaiji.iii,  and  (■niitiiiiied  about  six  inilcs 
u|)  ibe  stream.  iMicniliiiji'  lo  ri'acli,  i;ra(bially, 
the  lieart  of  tbe  luniiiilaiMs  at  the  head  of  the 
Ltik"  F.n-k  of  tbe  Tiilari. 

We  encamped  on  tlic  southern  side  of 
the  river,  where  broken  hills  made  a  sfee]) 
hhiir,  with  a  narrow  bottom.  On  the  north- 
ern "ide  was  a  low,  uruhilatin;j  wood  and 
prairie  land, over  wliicii  a  band  of  about  tiiree 
hundred  ellv  was  slowly  cominjj  to  \<ater 
vvIktc  wo  halted,  fec^dini^as  they  approached. 

December  VMh. — The  weather  contiinied 
clear  and  pleasant.  VVe  continued  o\ir  jour- 
ney in  a  southeasterly  direction,  over  a  broken 
!\m\  hilly  country,  without  timber,  and  show- 
inij  only  scattered  clumps  of  trees,  from 
which  wo  occasionally  started  deer.  In  a 
few  hours'  ridi"  wi'  •.■eached  a  beautiful  coun- 
try of  undidatinjj  upland,  openly  timbered 
with  oaks,  principally  everi^reen,  and  watered 
with  small  streams.  We  came  hero  among 
Home  vilhiires  (>f  Indians,  of  the  hor.so-thief 
tribes,  who  received  us  in  an  imfriendly  man- 
ner ;  and.  after  a  busy  nifrht  amouff  them, 
we  retreated  the  ne.xt  nioriiiiij,'  tc  the  more 
open  country  of  the  lower  hills.  Our  party 
was  then  a  small  one  of  10  men,  encumbered 
with  cattle,  which  we  were  driving  to  the 
relief  of  the  main  body  of  tbe  e.\|)edition, 
which  had  been  .sent  southward  from  Walk- 
er's lake,  in  tbe  basin,  along  the  eastern  base 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  to  which  a  valley 
in  the  mountain,  on  the  TultirS  F^ako  Fork, 
had  been  appointed  as  a  place  of  meeting. 

In  the  evening,  wo  encamped  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  1,0(10  feet  above  the  sea,  latitude  1)7° 
07'  Al",  still  among  the  bills,  on  a  spring  hol- 
low, leading  to  tiii:-  (Ipper  Joaquin  river. 
The  day  had  been  mild,  w  itii  a  faint  sun,  and 
cloudy  weather  ;  a'-.d,  at  siuisct,  there  were 
,=ome  light  clouds  in  the  sky,  with  a  north- 
easterly wind,  and  a  sunset  temperature  of 
\:P  \  pro!)ably  rendered  lower  than  usual 
by  the  air  from  the  mountains,  as  the  foot- 
hills have  generally  a  warmer  temperature 
than  the  open  valley.  Klk  wen'  numerous 
during  the  day.  making,  on  one  occasion,  a 
broken  band,  several  miles  in  lenirtb. 

On  the  'Jlst.  the  tliermomeler  at  sunrise 
was  H-J.t! :  the  sky  slightlv  clouded,  and.  in 
the  course  of  tbe  inoniing.tlie  clouds  gathered 
heavy  in  the  siiutbwe>t.  Our  route  lay  in  a 
Koutbeasterly  direction,  toward  the  ('ppcr 
Joaipiin,  crossin;:  among  rolling  hills,  a  larje 
stream  and  several  sandy  beds  of  allliu'iits  to 
the  main  river.  On  tbe  trcs  idong  thi'se 
streams,  as  well  as  on  the  hills,  1  noticed 
?ft(>,v,'>(  s.      About   2,   in   the    afternoon,   wo 


I  reached  the  Upper  San. loaquin.     Thof-froom 

'  was  here  about  70  yards  wide,  and  n-uch  t'o 
deep  to  be  forded.  A  little  way  below,  v>r 
siu'ceeded  in  crossing,  at  a  rapid  made  by  ". 
bed  of  rock,  below  wliicli.  for  sevi>ral  niiles. 

I  tbe  river  ajipeared    dei'p   and    not   fordable. 

I  We    followed   down    tbo   stream    for  six  or 

I  eight  miles,  and  encampeij  on  its  baid\s,  or. 
the  verge  of  tbe  valley  jilai'!.     .\t  evening, 

I  rain  b.^gan  to  fall,  and,  with  this,  the  sprin^r 
properly  coimnenced.  There  had  been  a  lit- 
tle rain  in  November,  but  not  sullicicnt  tc 

I  revive  vegetation. 

l):ri  iiilier  -J:". — The  temperature  at  sun- 
rise was  39".  There  had  been  heavy  rain 
during  tbe  night,  with  high  wind,  and  this 
morning,  there  was  a  thick  log,  which  U^gan 
to  go  oil'  at  8  o'clock,  when  the  snri  broke 
through.  We  crossed  an  open  plain,  still  in 
a  southeasterly  direction,  reaching,  in  about 
twenty  miles,  the  Tuhirex  Luke  river.  This 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  liandsome~t  streams 
in  the  valley,  being  about  100  yards  broad, 
and  having,  jierhaps,  a  larger  body  of  fertile 
land  than  any  other.  The  broad  alluvial 
bottoms  are  well  wooded  with  several  species 
of  oaks.  This  is  the  principal  atflnent  to  the 
Tulard  lake,  (the  bullruph  lake,)  a  strip  of 
water,  about  70  miles  long,  surrounded  by 
lowlands,  rankly  overgrown  with  bullrushcs, 
and  receiving  all  the  rivers  in  the  southoni 
end  of  tbo  valley.  In  times  of  Ingh  water, 
tho  lake  discharges  into  the  Joaquin,  making 
a  contiinions  water  line  through  the  whole 
extent  of  the  valley. 

W('  ascended  this  river  to  its  sources  in 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  about  50  miles  from  the 
odgo  of  tbe  valley,  which  we  reached  again 
on  tbo  7tb  c{'  Jitntianj,  in  the  neighborhood 
of  tbo  Tuiarii  lake.  We  found  tho  temper- 
ature much  the  same  as  in  D-cemher.  Fogs, 
which  rose  from  the  lake  in  the  morning, 
were  dense,  cold,  and  penetrating,  but,  after 
a  few  hours,  gave  ))l.ice  to  a  fine  day.  Thr^ 
face  of  the  country  had  been  much  imjiroved 
by  tho  rains  which  had  fallen  while  wo  re- 
mained in  the  mountains.  Several  humble 
pl.mts,  among  them  the  golden-llowered  vio- 
let [li'i/a  cni^iiiilhii)  and  enxliiim  cinil/iriinii. 
tho  first  valley  (lowers  of  the  spring,  which 
courii'<l  a  suimy  oxpo-^ure  and  warm  sanil_\ 
soil,  were  already  in  bloom  on  tbo  southwest- 
ern hill-slopps.  In  the  fool  bills  of  tho  moim- 
tains  tbo  bloom  of  tbe  Hewers  was  earlio". 
W(!  travelled  among  mullitudiuous  herds  ol 
elk,  anielojie,  and  wild  hfO'sos.  Several  o! 
tlu'  latter,  which  we  killed  for  food,  weri' 
found  to  bo  very  fat.  By  tbe  middle  o(  Ja'i- 
iifirii,  when  we  had  readied  tho  lower  Siu 
Joaquin,  the  new  green  grass  ciwo'ed  tl.': 
grounil  among  tb(>  o])e!i  timber  on  the  r!( :: 
river  Ixittonis,  and  the  spring  vegetation  h'. 
taken  a  vigorous  start. 

'J'lie  mean  tein]K''ratuiT  in  the  .loaqnin  '.."'. 


ley,  during  tl 
December  to 
sunrise  2'.)"  a 
a  faint  breez( 
tho  morning, 
ning.  This 
we  had  fduiiii 
tains  borderiii 
5000  feet  ah 
throughout  C 
spring  to  bo 
valleys  below 

During  a 
twoon  the  he 
month  of  tin 
January  to  t 
tomporature  ' 
Ktinset,  with 
January,  tbo 
were  thickly 
more  than  ha 
po])py,  (pjsrh 
racteristic   pi 
mnnophila  in 
ors,  growing 
bine,  and  cnw 
to  show  a  ,>• 
wore  fat,  and 
February,  h; 
on  his  back  i 
weigh  a  thou 
obtained  on  t 
um-n6  river, 
is  the  most  s 
which  this  fi 
March,  the  \ 
was  in  the  f 
green  oaks 
riuni  was 
place  of  till 
lands  a  ck 
between  tin 
of  yellow 
tics  of  Lay 
and   largo 
nemopliila 
the   ]irevaii 
slopes  to  tl 
growth  of 
oaks  were 

Observat 
licnd  of  the 
give,  for  the 
to  the  2-2d 
sunset,  the 
and  17°. 
moisture  ci 
12.71:2  grai 
A  siulde 
remarked 
to  the  Sinn 
in  the  wea 
the  north 
directly  c.\ 


Smii  .)(jiu|niii.     TliP  frtroom 

yards  \\'u\t\  anil  iiiiicit  I") 

\  little  Wily  bnliiu,  ur 

iiijr.  at  a  rapiil  nmtic  by  ;: 

which,  lor  spviTa!  ipifps. 

(i('('|)  ami   not  tbnlahli'. 

ill   the   strcain   tor  six  or 

iicainpiMJ  on  its  banks,  on 

ilcy  [ihiin.     At  fvcninj:. 

md,  with  this,  fill'  spriiiLT 

TIrtc  hail  bi'pii  a  lit- 

MT,  but  not  siitHiMunt  tc 

Tiio  tpnipf'ratiiri'  at  snn- 

rp  hail  bpcn  heavy  rain 

with  liiL'h  winil,  anil  this 

thick  (bir,  which  l)pgaM 

■lock,  when  the  snn  broke 

isseil  an  open  jjlaiii,  still  in 

rection,  reachinsr,  in  ahont 

'Vnhtrex  Ijiikf  river.     This 

st  anil  handsoine-t  streams 

ii;  about  100  yards  broad. 

|)S,  a  lariTcr  body  of  fertile 

ither.     The  broad  alluvial 

ooiled  with  several  species 

the  principal  alllnent  to  the 

bnllrnsh  lake.)  a.  strip  of 

niles  lonff,  siirronndcd  by 

nerijrown  with  bnllrnshcs, 

the  rivers  in  the  sontlioni 

In  times  of  hinrh  w'ater, 

's  into  the  .Toaquin,  making.' 

er  line  throngh  the  whole 

ey. 

this  river  to  its  sources  in 
I,  about  ,50  miles  from  the 
r,  which  we  reacho<i  airain 
'iiianj,  in  the  iipiiifhborhooil 
<e.     We  found  the  temper- 
une  as  in  Dcnnbrr.    Foijs, 
the  lake  in  the  niorninij. 
and  jienetratinji,  but,  after 
)  ])lace  to  a  tine  day.     Tlr 
y  liad  been  much  iinjiroveil 
h  bad   fallen  while  we  re- 
luntains.     iSeveral   humble 
■m  the  ijolden-llowered  vio- 
ii)  and  iniiliiim  cinitdriiiiii. 
iwors  of  the  sprinij,  which 
exposure  and  warm  sandv 
in  bloom  on  the  southwest- 
II  the  foot  hills  of  the  nioini- 
)f  the  llowcrs  was  e.arlie'. 
ni^-  niullitiidinous  herds  ol 
wild  horses.      Several  ,<'. 
wo  killed    for  food,  werr 
'at.     Hy  the  middle  of  .A/'i- 
id  reiu'lied  the   lower  >S;u 
(rreen  frrass  cove 'ed    th' 
e  open  timber  on  the  t'.i  " 
the  sprinir  veuetati'.'n  hi  I 
tart, 
'.'ratiirr  in  the  Joa'jiiiii  Wi! 


UPON  UPPKR  CALIFORNI.\. 


15 


icy,  dnring  the  journey,  from  the  middle  of 
December  to  the  midilli;  of  .lanuary,  was  at 
sunrise  2'.)^  and  at  sunset  h2".  with  irenerally 
a  faint  breeze  fnui  the  snowy  mountains  in 
the  morninij,  and  calm  weather  at  the  evo- 
i!iii<r.  This  was  a  lower  temperature  than 
we  liad  found  in  the  oak  reirionof  the  moun- 
tains borderinff  the  valley,  between  11)00  and 
SOOO  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  where, 
throiiirhoul  California,  I  have  remarked  the 
sprint;  to  be  more  forward  than  in  the  o|)en 
valleys  below. 

DuriniT  a  journev  throuiih  the  valley,  be- 
tween the  head  of  the  Tulare  lakes  and  the 
month  of  the  San  .loaipiin.  froii.  .he  IDtli 
January  to  the  llilli  February,  the  mean 
temperature  was  38°  at  sunrise  and  5:5"  at 
tiiinset,  with  frequent  rains.  At  the  end  of 
January,  the  river  bottoms,  in  many  ()laces, 
were  thickly  covered  with  lu.xuriant  frr"'^''. 
more  than  half  a  foot  lii!j;h.  The  California 
po])py,  (Esriischiil/ziii  Citrifitrnira.)  the  cha- 
racteristic plant  of  the  California  sprinfj ; 
mrmophila  insii^iiis,  one  of  the  earliest  flow- 
ers, growiiiif  in  beautiful  fields  of  a  delicate 
blue,  and  crodiiim  rirul'iriinn,  were  heginninn; 
to  pIiow  a  scattered  bloom.  Wild  liorses 
wore  fat,  and  a  Rrisly  boar,  killed  on  the  '2i\ 
February,  had  four  inches  thiclvioss  of  fat 
on  his  back  and  belly,  and  was  estimated  to 
weifih  a  thousand  pounds.  Salmon  was  first 
obtained  on  the  4th  February  in  the  To-wal- 
um-n6  river,  which,  accordiiiir  to  the  Indians, 
is  the  most  southerly  stream  in  the  valley  in 
which  this  fish  is  found.  By  the  middle  of 
March,  the  whole  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin 
was  in  the  i'ull  plory  of  spring ;  the  ever- 
green oaks  were  in  Hower,  i^rraniitm  ciciila- 
rinm  was  generally  in  bloom,  occupying  the 
place  of  the  grass,  and  making  on  all  the  up- 
lands a  close  sicard.  The  higher  prairies 
between  the  rivers  presented  unbroken  fields 
of  yellow  and  orange-colored  flowers,  varie- 
ties of  Laijin  and  E^chnclwllzia  Dalijurnica, 
and  large  Iwuquets  of  the  blue  flowering 
nemojihila  nearer  the  strcam.s.  These  nuule 
the  prevailing  bloom,  and  the  sunny  bill- 
slopes  to  the  river  bottoms  showed  a  varied 
growth  of  lu.xuriant  flowers.  The  white 
oak.s  were  not  yet  in  bloom. 

Observations  made  in  the  valley,  from  the 
tend  of  the  Joacpiin  to  the  C6"Uiii-nd  river, 
give,  for  the  mean  temperature,  t'rom  the  10th 
to  the  2-Jd  March,  38^  at  sunrise  and  5ti°  at 
sunset,  the  dew  point  being  '.Uf.l  at  sinirise, 
and  17°. 0  at  sunset,  and  the  quantity  of 
moi.sture  contained  in  a  cubic  foot  ol  air  being 
t2.712  grains,  and  1.072  grains,  respectively. 

A  sudden  change  in  the  teiiiperatiire  was 
remarked  in  passing  from  tlie  'l\i-inil-iiiii-n(' 
to  the  Sliitiishiiis  river,  there  being  no  change 
in  the  weather,  and  the  wind  continuing  from 
the  norlluvesi.  to  v.hich  we  wi  re  more 
directly  ex|iosed  on  reaching  the  Stanislaus 


river,  where  we  opened  on  the  bay.  In  tra- 
vellinjj:  down  to  the  Stanislaus,  the  mean  tem- 
perature for  five  da' s  (from  the  11th  to  tlio 
Kith)  was  10°. 3  at  sunrise.  7:i°  at  I  p.  m., 
and  ()3°  ;it  sunset ;  and  de'acheil  observations 
gave  ()(>"  at  i)  a.  m..  77°  at  noon,  and  87^^  at 
i!  p.  ni. 

'I'be  dew  point  was  38''.0,  .05°. .5.  T)  i°.3  at 
sunrise,  at  1  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  sunset ; 
and  the  moisture  contained  in  a  cubic  foot  of 
air  2.878  grains,  ft.20!)  grains,  and  4.!)27 
grains,  respectively. 

North  of  the  Stanislaus  for  five  days  (from 
Kjth  to  the  21st)  the  mean  was  30°. ii  at  sun- 
rise, .07°  at  4  p.  111.,  and  1(1°  at  sunset.  The 
dew  point  was  34-'. 9  at  sunrise,  37°.  1  at  4 
p.  ni..  and  40°.!)  at  sunset,  and  the  quantity 
of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air  2.fi71  grains, 
2.983  grains,  and  3.216  grains,  at  the  corres- 
ponding times.  At  sunrise  of  the  16th,  on 
the  To-wal-mn-ne,  the  thennonieter  was  at 
43°,  and  at  sunrise  of  the  next  morning,  on 
the  Stanislaus,  at  35°. 

The  temperature  was  lowest  on  the  night 
of  the  17th.  At  sunrise  of  the  morning  fol- 
lowing the  thermometer  was  at  27°,  and  il 
was  remarked  that  the  frost  afTected  several 
varieties  of  plants.  On  the  20th  and  21st 
there  were  some  showers  of  rain,  the  first 
since  the  end  of  February.  These  were 
preceded  by  south-westerly  winds. 

During  December  and  the  first  part  of 
January,  which  was  still  at  the  season  of  low 
waters,  we  were  easily  able  to  ford  all  the 
Joaquin  tributaries.  These  begin  to  rise 
with  the  rains,  and  are  kept  up  by  the  melt- 
ing snows  in  the  summer.  At  the  end 
of  January,  the  Joaquin  required  boating 
throughout  the  valley,  and  the  tributiirics 
were  forded  with  difficulty. 

In  the  latter  part  of  March,  of  a  dry  sea- 
son, (1844,)  we  were  obliged  to  boat  the 
Stanislaus,  To-wal-nm-ne,  and  Au.x-um-ne, 
and  the  San  Joaquin  was  nowhere  fordablo 
below  the  bend  where  it  is  joined  by  the 
slough  of  the  Tular6  lake.  On  the  13tli  of 
March,  184fi,  we  were  obliged  to  boat  the 
San  Joaquin,  the  river  being  no.vbere  ford- 
able  below  the  junction  of  the  slough,  and 
the  Indians  guided  us  to  some  difHcult  fords 
of  the  large  tributaries,  where  we  succeeded 
to  cross  with  damage  to  our  equipage.  In 
July  of  the  same  year,  we  boated  the  San 
Joaquin  below  the  Au.x-um-ne,  it  being  no- 
where fordable  below  the  bend. 

In  June,  1847,  the  Joaquin  was  nowhere 
fordable,  being  several  hundred  yards  broad 
as  high  up  as  the  Anx-iim-iif  river,  even 
with  its  hanks,  and  scattered  in  sloughs  over 
all  its  lower  bottoms.  All  the  large  tribiittt- 
ries,  the  Aux-mn-ne,  To-wai-um-ne,  Stanis- 
laus, and  Mo-kel-um-ne,  ri'i|iiireii  to  be 
boated,  and  were  pouring  down  a  deep  vo 
lume  of  water  from  the  mountains,  one  tc 


16 


gi-;o(;rapiiical  mkmoir 


Iwii  liiiiidivil  y:iril^  wide.  Tlu'  lii^'li  wiitriv 
c.aino  t'nim  tlio  mclliiiir  sno'.vs,  uliicli,  duriiiij: 
till'  p;ist  wiiiliT,  li;i(l  a :'Ciiiiiiiliit('il  to  h  (jrcat 
doptli  in  liic  inoimtaiiis.  and,  al  the  fud  of 
June,  lay  in  the  a|)|iroiicii(\--.  to  tlio  Hi-ar  river 
pjis-«,  on  a  hroadlh  often  or  liftnen  miles,  and 
this  below  the  level  of  7,:20l)  feet.  In  rainy 
sea.-oiis,  whi'ii  tli(>  raiiH  l)ei;in  will)  Novein- 
l)(!r.  and  the  snows  lie  on  the  aioiintaiiis  till 
July,  this  river  is  navitjalile  for  eiijlit  inonth.i 
of  the  year — ilie  leiiiitii  of  tiiiio  dependiiii^on 
the  soa.-dii. 

The  ('os-mii-iK'  was  the  last  triliutary  of 
the  San  Joaijuiii,  and  tli"  last  river  of  its  val- 
ley coiiiinj;-  down  tVoni.  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
The  Rid  il  ■  liis  AiiifririDins  was  the  first  tri- 
butary of  the  valley  of  the  Sacranienio,  also 
coniinir  down,  like  all  the  respeetable  tribu- 
taries of  both  rivers,  from  the  snowy  sum- 
mit and  rainy  side  of  the  irreat  Sierra.  Tlio 
two  valleys  are  tmr,  only  discriniinated  in  de- 
scription or  reference  by  the  iiaino  of  the 
river  which  traverses  the  respective  lialves, 
as  seen  in  the  map.  We  entered  the  part  of 
the  valley  which  takes  the  name  of  its  river, 
Sacrntii'tnlo,  on  the  21st  day  of  March,  nroinfj 
north,  and  continued  our  observations  on 
that  valley. 

Wo  HMuained  several  days  on  the  Rio  do 
los  Americanos,  to  recruit  our  animals  on  the 
abundant  ranjie  between  the  Sacramento  and 
the  hills.  During  this  time  the  thermometer 
was  at  35°  at  sunrise,  64°  at  0  o'ckick  in  the 
morninif,  63°  at  noon,  ti3°  at  '2  in  the  after- 
noon, Gl°  at  1,  and  .53"  at  sun.scf,  the  dew- 
point  at  correspondinjf  times  beinn;  3-1°. 0, 
49°.9,  4f)°.G,  40°.l,  51°.G.  43'\7 ;  and  the 
quantity  of  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot  of  air 
boin;T  2.519  grs.,  4.'235  jrrs.,  3.808  grs., 
4.1bl  grs.,  4.484  grs.,  3.4G9  grs. 

We  left  the  Rio  do  los  Americanos  on  the 
24th,  ten  miles  above  tlie  mouth,  travelling  a 
little  east  of  north,  in  the  direction  of  the 
Bear  river  settlements,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Emigrant  pass.  The  road  led  among  oak 
limber,  over  ground  slightly  undulating,  cov- 
ered with  grass  intermingled  with  flowers. 
The  thermometer  at  4  was  7G",  and  at  sun- 
set C0°  ;  the  weather  clear. 

At  sunrise  of  the  25tli,  the  temperature 
was  36°,  with  an  easterly  wind  and  clear 
sky.  In  about  thirty  miles  iravel  to  the 
north,  we  reached  the  rancho  of  Jlr.  Koyser, 
on  Bear  river;  an  affluent  to  Fvulher  river, 
the  largest  tributary  of  the  Sacramento. 
The  route  lay  over  an  undulating  country — 
more  so  as  (uir  course  brought  us  nearer  the 
mountains — wooded  with  oaks  and  shrubbery 
in  blossom,  with  small  prairies  iiitorveniu:'. 
Many  plants  were  in  flower,  and  aiiKing 
them  the  Caliloruia  poppy,  unusually  mag- 
nificent. It  is  the  charai'teristic  bloom  of 
Catifontifi  at  tliis  season,  anil  the  Bear  river 
oottoms,  near  the  hills,  were  covered  with  it. 


We  (tossimI  sev(>ral  small  streams,  and  fonim 
the  ground  miry  from  the  recent  rai  is.  '"he 
leniperalun-  at  1  in  the  afternoon  was  70°, 
and  al  sunset  t>H°,  with  an  ea.-.terly  wind,  and 
the  night  brinlit  and  clear. 

The  morning  of  the  •J')\h  wa-;  c!e:i".  (Mid 
warmer  than  usual;  the  wind  sontheasie'iy, 
and  the  tomperatiir'^  40".  We  travelli-d 
across  the  valley  plain,  and  in  ab'.ut  si.vKeii 
miles  reached  Feather  river,  at  twentysi.x 
miles  l>om  its  juiu'tion  with  t'le  .Sacramento, 
near  till' mouth  of  the  V'l//'/,  so  called  froui 
a  village  of  Iniliinis  who  live  on  it.  The 
river  has  high  banks — twenty  or  thirty  f.-i'l  — 
and  was  here  150  yards  widi-,  a  deep,  navi- 
gable stream.  The  Indians  aidi'd  us  a'-ro.;i; 
the  river  with  canoes  and  small  rafts.  E.\- 
tending  along  the  bank  in  front  of  the  vil- 
lage, was  a  range  of  wicker  cribs,  about 
twelve  feet  higli.  partly  tilled  with  what  is 
there  the  Indians'  stall' of  life — acorns.  A 
collection  of  huts,  shaped  like  boe-hi'.es, with 
iwked  Indians  sinining  themselves  on  the 
tops,  and  these  acorn  cribs,  are  the  jiroini- 
nent  objects  in  an  Indian  village. 

There  is  a  tine  farm,  or  rancho,  on  the 
Vuva.  stocked  with  about  3,000  head  of  cat- 
tle, and  cultivated  principally  in  wheat,  with 
some  other  grains  and  vegetables,  which  are 
carrieil,  by  means  of  the  river,  to  a  market  at 
San  Francisco.     Mr.  Cordiia,  a   native   of 
(Jeriiiany,  who  is  proprietor  of  the  place,  in- 
formed me  that  his  average  harvest  of  wheat 
was  about  twenty-live  bushels  to  the  acre, 
which  he  supposed  would  be  about  the  pro- 
duct of  the  wlieat  lands  in  the  Sacramento 
valley.     The  labor  on  this  and  other  farms 
in  the  valley  is  performed  by  Indians. 
I      The  temperature  here  was  74°.  at  2  in 
j  the  afternoon,  71°.  at  4,  and  69°.  at  sunset, 
1  with  a  northeasterly  wind  ami  clear  sky. 
!      Al  sunrise  of  the   27lh  the  temperature 
i  w.as  42°.,  clear,  v^itli  a  nortlicasterly  wind. 
I  We  travelled  northwardly,  up  the  rigiit  bank 
of  the  river,  which  was  wooded  v\'ith  largo 
!  white  and  evergreen  oaks,  interspersed  with 
[  thickets   of  shrubbery  in  full   bloom.     We 
made  a   pleasant  journey   of  twenty-.seven 
I  miles,  and  encamped  at  the  bend  of  the  river, 
where  it  turns  from  the  course  across  the 
valley  to  run  southerly  to  its  junction  with 
the  Sacramento.     The  thermometer  at  sun- 
sot  was  at  67°,  sky  partially  clouded,  with 
southerly  wind. 

The  thermometer  at  sunrise  on  the  28tl! 
was  at  46. °5.,  with  a  northea.sterly  wind. 
The  road  was  over  an  open  plain,  witii  a  few 
small  sloughs  or  creeks  that  do  not  roach 
the  river.  After  travelling  about  fifteen 
iiiilcs  we  encamped  on  Hiillf  creek,  a  beau- 
tiful stream  of  clear  water  about  fifty  yards 
wide,  with  a  bold  current  running  all  tlio 
year,  ll  has  largo  fertile  bottoms,  wcntded 
with  open  groves,  and   having  u   luxuriiiut 


ijM'.vln  of  pea 

•jaks  here  weri 

fl.'iC    raiichos 

rides  the  stre; 

seine  of  wliicl 

cIio  iiere  is  o 

'(jolonged  to  m; 

rarv.hcriii  (IncI 

of  tlie  Indians 

and  ofl'als  of  a 

scntcil   to  lis. 

The  thcrnioiiii 

at  70'-\,  two  h 

sunset :    the  ' 

only  in  the  wi 

The  tempo 

day  was  5U°, 

west,  which 

.lOiiJiwest  wii 

\'v  fi  travelled 

Fine  creek,  a 

tonis  of  fertile 

large  and  ban 

six  feet  in  dia 

in  height.     A 

monieter  sliov 

the  sky  clear, 

March  30.- 

clouds  over  tl 

sant  morning 

46°  5,  and  sc 

is  said,  in  the 

of  high  wate 

boltoms  ot  till 

the  tributarie 

are  seen,  and 

tinuing  uj)  tli 

distance  a  1; 

about  thirty-l 

rbad  was  ove 

mento,  liavin 

erally  twu  r,'. 

twelve  or  hft 

mountains. 

miles  to  uiic 

here  make  n 

In  the  afteri 

mouth,  wo  e 

of  these  be; 

inonto.     It 

bottom    Ian 

wooded  wit  I 

more  {plalai 

bearing  its 

and  peculia 

native  of  (i 

here,  which 

bringing  in 

rally  throu 

largo  retiiri 

experiment 

gucccoded 

vineyard,  fi 

consiilorod 


ii'.ul!  slrejiiu.-,  Mill]  fonim 
|>iji  tlif  recent  mi  is.     Tlin 
llie  :i!'teriii)()n   w;is  70°, 


Ivilli  Mil  iM.-terlv  wiiul 
|l  cleMr. 

tlie  L'jlh  w. 
I;  the  wind 


Mm: 


cie.i:- 


Ml(i 


oiiliiuMsli'-ly, 
t\"  1(1".  \Vc  IrM\el|,:.,i 
lain,  Mild  iu  Mli'iut  si;-l(en 


llher   nver. 


twcntv-.-i.vc 


KUl  with  t'le  SMcrMiiu'liti), 


> 


mil,  SI)  CM 


lied   I, 


(I'll 


lis  wild  live  nil   it. 

Is — twenty  ortliirly  f-.'? 

lyMril 

|e  IiidiMlls    Miileil  lis 


Wide,  a  deep,  iiMvi- 


iiiil 


SI  I  ml  I  rulls 


liMiik 


M<TO;,-s 

E.x- 


liMiiU   111  Iroiil   (.1    il](.  vii- 
of   wiidier   erihs,   mIioiiI 
|)Mi-lly  tilled  Willi  wliMt  is 
stMll'ol'  lil'e — Mcorns.     A 
iM|)ed  like  lioe-lii',  es.witli 
iniiiir  themselves   on  t)io 
irn   crihs,  nre  the  |iroini. 
iidiali  vilJMife. 
iMrni,  or  nuiclui,  on  the 
iihoiit  3,0U0  lu'Md  of  rat- 
principMlly  in  wheMt,  with 
iind  veirctMblos,  which  are 
)rtlio  river,  to  a  market  at 
Ir.  (.'ordiia,  ,i    iiutivo   of 
roprietor  of  the  jilaco,  in- 
avernfje  harvest  of  wheat 
live  bushels  to  the  acre, 
1  would  ho  Mhoiit  the  pro- 
lands  in  the  KMcrMinento 
on  this  and  other  farins 
brined  by  Indian.s. 
;  here  was  7 1".  at  3  in 
at  4,  and  09°.  at  .sunset, 
r  wind  and  clear  sky. 
le   27tli  the  temperature 
itli  a  no-theasterlv  wind, 
.vardly,  r,p  the  riirht  bank 
was  wooded  with  larcje 
n  oaks,  intor.sper.sed  wiTh 
cry  in  full    bloom.     We 
)iiriiey   of  twenty-seven 
]  at  the  bend  of  the  river, 
1  the  course  acros.s  the 
eriy  to  its  junction  with 
riie  tlierinoiiieter  at  sun- 
r  partially  clouded,  with 

■  at  sunrise  on  the  28lh 
li  a  northea-sterlv  wind. 
Ill  open  plain,  witii  a  few 
eeks  that  do  not  roach 
:ravellinir  about  (iftoen 
on  liiiilf  creek,  a  beaii- 

■  water  about  fifty  yards 
iirrent  riinninir  "a|[  tlie 
fertile  bottmiis.  wejded 
ad    liaviny;  a    kuuriaiit 


UPON  UI'l'Kll  CALIKOii.Nl.V 


n 


.nvtii  of  pea  vine  aniony;  the  fjra>s.     'I'l 


T 


le  seasons  lire  not  vol  siinineii 


Illy  ;  tu! 


cr- 


oak? here  were  ^ettiiiu-  into  cri'iieral  bleoiii.  |  stood,  and  loo  little  lias  been  lioii.'  in  atrricu 
[•li'iC    riiiichos    liMVe  been  .selected   on    both     tiire,  to  airord  certain   knowledLre  of  the  ca-. 


]. 


.-iJes  the  stream, 


and   stocked  with  cattle. 


fat. 


3Giiie  o(  which  were  now  very 
cho  here  is  owned  by  Nea.,  who  lurmerly 
bclonir<'d  to  my  e.\ploriiirr  parly.  'I'liere  is  a 
ranr.h>riii  (Indian  villai;e)  near  by,  and  some 
of  tlie  Indians  {gladly  ran  races  for  the  bead 
and  ofl'als  of  a  fat  cow  which  had  been  pre- 
sented to  us.  They  were  fiilirc/y  naked. 
The  llr.'rmoiiieter  at  2  in  the  afternoon  was 


at  70'-\,  two  hours  later  at  7  l" 


1(1  (ifj 


at 


lacities  of  the  coiiiilr 


This  I 


I  rill  IS  III  the 


■lUth  deirree  of  latitude;  our  pn-'linn  mi  the 
river  beiii^'  in  ;{<)"  !)~'  do",  and  loniritiido 
121"  5l)'   1 1"  west  from  (Ireeiiwuli.  am 


vatioii  lUHivo  the  sea  HiW  feet. 


.M 


1  ele- 


Milt  three 


miles  alnive  the  mouth  of  this  streaiu  are  the 
first  ra))iils — the  present  head  of  iiaviijalion 
— ill  the  Sacraiiiento  river,  wliiih,  from  the 
rapiils  to  its  mouth  in  the  bav,  is  more  than 


•JDO   mile: 


loll;.',  and   increMsiii^r  in   breadth 


sunset:    the   wind   east,  and   the  sky   clear  I  Irom  liJO  yards   to  GOO  yard-  in   the  loweJ 


onl 


V  in  the  west. 


tl 


le  teiiiperature  at  sunrise  ol 
r.i.o 


till 


ne.xt 


day  was  50",  with  cumuli  in  the  south  and 
west,  which  left  a  clear  sky  at  9,  willi  a 
.if'itliwest  wind,  and  lemperature  of  H 1*^. 
\ V  e  travelled  'JO  miles,  and  encamped  on 
Fuie  creek,  another  line  stream,  with  bot- 
toms of  fertile  land,  wooded  with  ^rroves  of 
large  and  liaiulsomo  oaks,  some  atlaiiilnjr  to 
six  I'eet  in  diameter,  and  forty  to  seventy  feet 
in  heijfht.  At  4  in  the  afternoon  the  ther- 
mometer showed  7  l"  and  Gl°  at  sunset ;  and 
the  sky  clear,  e.veept  in  the  horizon. 

March  30. — 'I'iie  sun  rose  in  masses  of 
clouds  over  the  eastern  mounutiiis.  A  plea- 
sant moriiiiiir,  with  a  sunrise  temperature  of 
46°  6,  and  some  mnsquilocs — never  seen,  as 
is  said,  in  the  coast  country  ;  but  at  seasons 
of  liijjh  water  abundant  and  venomous  in  the 
bottoms  of  the  Joaquin  aud  Sacramento.  On 
the  tributaries  nearer  the  mountain  but  few 
are  seen,  and  those  ^'o  with  the  sun.  Con- 
tinuing up  the  valley,  we  crossed  in  a  short 
distance  a  lar;^e  wooded  creek,  liaving  now 
about  thirty-five  feet  breadth  of  water.  Our 
road  was  over  an  upland  prairie  of  the  Sacra- 
mento, having  a  yellowish,  gravelly  soil,  gen- 
erally two  or  three  miles  from  the  river,  and 
twelve  or  hftecn  from  the  foot  of  the  eastern 
mountains.  <Jn  the  west  it  was  26  or  30 
miles  to  uie  foot  of  the  mountains,  which 
here  make  a  bed  of  high  and  broken  ranges. 
In  the  afternoon,  about  lialf  a  mile  above  its 
mouth,  we  encamped  on  Deer  creek,  another 
of  these  beautiful  tributaries  to  the  Sacra- 
mento. It  has  the  usual  broad  and  fertile 
bottom  lands  common  to  these  streams, 
wooded  with  groves  of  oak  and  a  large  syca- 
more {plalnnus  occi(/f«to/i.s),  distinguished  by 
bearing  its  balls  in  strings  of  three  to  five, 
and  peculiar  to  California.  Mr.  Lassen,  a 
native  of  (iermany,  has  established  a  rancho 
here,  which  ho  has  stocked,  and  is  griidtially 
bringing  into  cultivation.  Wheat,  as  gene- 
rally throughout  the  north  country,  gives 
large  returns  ;  coltoii,  planted  in  the  way  of 
e.xperiment,  was  not  injured  by  frost,  and 
succeeded  well  :  ami  he  has  lately  planted  a 
vineyard,  for  wiiicli  the  Sacraiiienio  vallev  is 
cousidorod    to    iie    suigiilar.v    wel:    .idao'ed. 


part  of  its  coiirs 


1) 


iiriiig  si.x  ilav' 


that 


we  remaine 


liere, 


from  the  30lh  of  March  to  tin 
f 


.'jih  of  Apri 


le  mean  teiiiperature  was  to  at  sunrise, 
52°  ..5  at  9  in  the  morning,  57°. 2  at  noon, 
59°  .4  at  2  in  the  afternoon.  5^°  .8  at  4,  and 
52°  at  sunset;  Mt  the  corres|)oiidiiig  timo.'j 
the  dew  point  WMs  at  37°  .0,  11°  .0,38°  .1, 
39°  .(),  14°  .9,  10°  .5  ;  and  the  moisture  in  a 
cubic  foot  of  air  2.838  grs.,  3.179  grs.,  2.936 
grs.,  3.034  grs.,  3.7()G  grs.,  3.150  grs.,  re- 
spectively. Much  cloudy  weather  and  some 
showers  of  rain,  during  this  interval,  con- 
siderably reduced  the  tem|>eratiire,  which 
ro.se  with  line  weather  on  the  5tli.  Salmon 
was  now  abundant  in  the  Sacramento.  Those 
which  we  obtained  were  generally  between 
three  and  four  feet  in  length,  and  appeared  to 
be  of  two  distinct  kinds.  It  is  said  that  as 
many  as  four  diflerent  kinds  ascend  the  river 
at  dilTeront  periods.  The  great  aliiiiidaiice 
in  which  this  fish  is  found  gives  it,  an  im- 
portant place  among  the  resources  of  tlie 
country.  The  salmon  crowd  in  immense 
numbers  up  the  Unipqua,  TIamath,  and 
Trinity  rivers,  and  into  every  little  river  and 
creek  on  the  coast  north  of  the  Hay  San 
Francisco,  ascending  the  river  Tlamalh  to 
the  lake  near  its  source,  which  is  upwards 
of  4,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  distant  from 
it  only  about  200  miles. 

In  the  evening  of  the  5th  we  resumed 
j  our  journey  northward,  and  eiicamped  on  a 
1  little  creek,  near  the  Sacramento,  where  an 
I  emigrant  from  "  the  States"  was  establishing 
1  himself,  and  had  already  built  a  house.  It  is 
;  a  handsome  place,  wooded  with  groves  of 
i  oak,  and  along  the  creek  are  sycamore,  ash, 
I  cotton-wood,  and  willmv.     The  day  was  fine, 

with  a  northeast  wind. 
;  The  temperature  at  sunrise  the  ne.xt  day 
(April  (ith),  was  42°,  with  a  northeasterly 
wind.  We  continued  up  the  Sacramento, 
which  we  crossed  in  canoes  at  a  farm  on  the 
riiiht  bank  of  the  river.  The  Sacramento 
was  here  about  1  10  yards  wide,  and  with  the 
actual  stage  of  water,  which  I  was  informed 
conliiiueil  several  months,  navigable  for  a 
steamboat.  We  eiiciiiiipi'il  a  fi  w  miles  above, 
on  ii    creek    wuujeu    ^.liiicijia'ly   witli   largo 


18 


(;i;iH;ifAi'iiiCAL  memoir 


oal;s.  (Inir-s  was  sued  mid  abiuidimt,  with 
wild  (iat>  and  poa-vliic  in  liif  liultoiiiH.  The 
fl.iy  was  liiip,  with  a  cool  northwcstrrly 
jrcczo,  whi(h  had  in  it  tiio  iiir  of  th(3  hi};li 
niomilaius.  Tho  wild  oats  iicro  wero  nut 
yet  iicadrd. 

Till!  siKiwy  /''■"'.■  '/  Shdsll  borp  diroctly 
north,  shu«iii;r  mit  iii;j;h  above  the  otlii-r 
mountaiiis,  TcmpiTalnre  at  siiii.^ct  67", 
with  a  west  wind  and  sliy  partly  clDudod. 

Aiiril,  7. — 'I'bc  tonipi'ratin-eat  suni-ise  was 
37°,  with  a  nioi>t  air;  and  a  faintly  clouded 
sky  indicati'd  that  the  wind  was  Koiilherly 
alonj;  the  eua.-t.  We  travelled  towards  the 
Shasll  peal;,  the  nioinitain  rannfcs,  on  both 
Bides  of  the  Nalloys,  l)ein|r  iiifih  and  nigfjed, 
and  snow-co\ere(l.  Some  remarkable  jieaks 
in  tlic  Sierra,  to  the  eastward,  are  called  tlw 
Sistern,  and,  nearly  opposite,  the  Coast  Ilanye 
shows  n  jiroiiiinent  peak,  wliicii  wc  liavo 
called  jMonnt  Linn. 

Leavin;f  the  Sacramento,  at  n  stream  called 
Red  Bank  rn-xk,  and  continuing  to  the  iiead 
of  one  of  its  forks,  wo  entered  on  a  liif;li  and 
Bomewhat  broken  upland,  timbered  witii  at 
least  four  varieties  of  oaks,  with  maiiMiiila 
(arbutus  Mi'nzksii)  and  other  shrubbery  in- 
terspersed. A  remarkable  species  of  pine, 
having  leaves  in  threes,  (.sometimes  six  to 
nine  inches  long.)  with  bluish  foliage,  and 
a  spreading,  oak-shaped  top,  was  scattered 
tliroiigh  the  timber.  1  liavo  remarked  that 
tliis  tree  grows  lower  down  the  mountains 
than  tne  other  pines,  being  found  familiarly 
associated  with  the  oaks,  the  lirst  met  after 
leaving  tlie  open  valleys,  and  seeming  to  like 
a  warm  climate.  Flowers  were  as  usual 
abundant.  The  splendid  California  poppy 
characterized  all  tlie  route  along  the  valley. 
A  species  of  clover  was  in  bloom,  and  the 
berries  of  the  mansani/a  were  beginning  to 
redden  on  some  trees,  while  on  others  they 
were  still  in  bloom.  VVe  encamped,  at  an 
elevation  of  about  1,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
on  a  large  stream  called  Cottonwood  creek, 
wooded  on  the  bottoms  with  oaks,  and  with 
cotton-woods  along  the  bed,  which  is  sandy 
and  gravelly.  The  water  was  at  this  time 
about  twenty  yards  wide,  but  is  frequently 
fifty.  The  face  of  the  country  traversed 
during  the  day  was  gravelly,  and  the  bottoms 
of  the  creek  where  wo  encamped  have  a 
sandy  soil. 

There  are  six  or  seven  ranchrrias  of  In- 
dians on  the  Sacramento  river  between  the 
farm  where  we  had  crossed  the  Sacramento 
and  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  and  many  others 
in  the  mountains  about  the  heads  of  these 
streams. 

The  next  morning  was  cloudy,  threatening 
rain,  but  the  sky  grew  brighter  as  the  sun 
rose,  and  a  south'-rly  wind  changed  to  north- 
west, which  bvDMiyii!,  as  if  never  fails  to 
bring, clear  weather. 


We  cdntinned  \C<  miles  up  the  valley,  arid 
encamped  on  the  Sacrananito  river.  In  ttiO 
afleriiooi\  (Ajiril  8)  the  weather  iigain  grew 
thick,  and  in  the  evening  rain  began  to  tiill 
in  the  valley  and  snow  <'n  the  inoiintains. 
We  were  now  tiear  th'^  bead  of  the  lower 
valley,  and  the  face  of  the  country  .'ind  the 
weatiier  began  sen.-llily  to  show  the  intluonco 
of  the  rugged  mountains  whicb  .surround 
and  terminate  it. 

The  valley  of  the  Sacramento  is  divided 
into  up[)er  and  lower — the  lower  t'vo  hun- 
dred miles  long,  the  uppi^r  aliout  fine  hun- 
dreii ;  and  the  latter  not  merely  entitled  to 
the  di-tiiu;tion  of  upper,  as  being  higher  up 
on  the  river,  iiut  also  as  having  a  superior 
elevali(m  of  some  lhousan(N(if  feet  above  it. 
'J'iie  divi.-'ion  is  strongly  and  geographically 
marked.  The  Sbastl  peak  staiiils  at  the 
head  of  the  lower  valley,  in  the  forks  of  tlic 
river,  rising  from  a  bas(>  of  about  1.000  feet, 
out  of  a  forest  of  heavy  timber.  It  ascends 
like  an  inmiense  colimni  upwards  of  1-1,000 
feet,  (nearly  the  height  of  .Mont  IManc.)  the 
summit  glistening  with  snow,  and  visible, 
from  favorable  points  of  view,  at  a  distance 
of  140  ni'les  down  the  valley.  The  river 
here,  in  descending  from  the  upper  valley, 
plunges  down  through  a  rafiim,  falling  '2,000 
feet  in  twenty  miles.  Tliis  upper  valley  is 
100  miles  long,  heavily  timbered,  the  climate 
and  productions  modilled  by  its  altitude,  itt 
more  noithern  position,  and  the  proximity  and 
elevation  of  the  neighboring  m(unitains  cov- 
ered with  snow.  It  contains  valleys  of  ara- 
ble land,  and  is  deemed  capable  of  settle- 
ment. Added  to  the  lower  valley,  it  makes 
the  whole  valley  of  the  Sacramento  300 
miles  long. 

April  9. — At  10  o'clock  the  rain  which 
commenced  the  previous  evening  had  ceased, 
and  the  clouds  clearing  away,  we  boated  the 
river,  and  continued  our  journey  eastward 
toward  the  foot  of  the  Sierra,  "jiie  Sacra- 
mento bottoms  hero  are  broad  and  prettily 
wooded,  with  soil  of  a  sandy  character.  Our 
way  led  through  very  handsome,  open  woods, 
principally  of  oaks,  mingled  with  a  considera- 
ble quantity  of  the  oak-shaped  pine.  Inter- 
spersed among  these  wero  bouquets  or  thick- 
ets of  mansanita,  and  an  abundant  white-flow- 
ering shrub,  now  entirely  covered  with  small 
blossoms.  The  head  of  the  valley  here 
(lower  valley)  is  watered  i)y  many  small 
streams,  having  fertile  bottom  lands,  with  a 
good  range  of  grass  and  acorns.  In  about 
six  miles  wo  crossed  a  creek  '20  or  '25  feet 
wide,  and  several  miles  farther  descended 
into  the  broad  bottoms  of  a  swift  stream  about 
20  yards  wide,  called  Cow  creek,  so  named 
as  being  the  range  of  a  small  hand  of  cattle, 
which  ran  oil"  here  from  a  party  on  tiicir  wav 
to  Oregon.  They  are  eniirelv  wild,  and  are 
hunted  like  other  game.     A  large  bdiid  of 


(1  Ifi  luilp?  up  tli(^  valley,  nntt 
ic  Sacraiiii'iilii  river.  In  tho 
I  S)  the  wi'iiilicr  iiirain  ^rnw 
I'  cvciiip^'  mill  lici::m  Id  liill 
lul  >-iio\v  i'u  the  iiiHiiiitaiiiH, 
nciir  ill'"'  li(>iu!  Ill'  llif  Idwer 
liicc  III'  tlie  Cdiiiitrv  and  the 
scn.-lljly  loslidw  the  iiitliicnco 
iiidiiiitiiiii.-'  wliirl'    stiri'diind 

I  tilt'  t^:i(  raiiicnlo  ir.  divided 
lower — the  lower  U\o  liiiii- 
■,  tiie  M|i|)er  nhoiit  erne  Inin- 
atler  not  merely  entitled  to 
if  U|)|)er,  as  lieiii;;  hiil'lier  up 
I  al.-.o  as  haviii<r  a  siijierior 
i(>  thonsaiid<  (if  feet  ahovo  it. 
stninuly  and  (i-cdirrapliically 
Siiastl    peak    stands    a!    tilt? 
vcr  valley,  in  the  forUs  (if  the 
1111  a  liaM"  df  about  1.01)0  feot, 
df  heavy  tiiiilier.     It  ascends 
e  edliinm  n|)wards  of  11,000 
e  iieifriit  df  Mdiit  IJlanc.)  the 
iiifr    with   SHOW,  aiid  visible, 
piiiiits  df  view,  iit  a  distance 
ilowii  the  valley,     Tiie  river 
idiiiir  fnuii  the  upper  valley, 
throiiiih  a  cunim.  falliiijj  '2,000 
miles.     'J'his  upper  valley  is 
,  heavily  timbered,  tho  climate 
IS  nuKlilied  by  its  altitude,  ita 
position,  and  tho  pro.xiinity  and 
e  nein;!! boring  nionntains  cov- 
V.     It  contains  valleys  of  ara- 
is  deemed  capable  of  settle- 
to  tho  lower  valley,  it  makes 
lley  of  the   Sacramento  300 

t  10  o'clock  tho  rain  which 
e  previous  cveninp;  had  ceased, 
cleariiiir  away,  we  lx)ated  the 
itinued  our  journey  eastward 
t  of  the  Sierra.  The  Sacra- 
1  here  are  broad  and  prettily 
oil  of  a  sandy  character.  Our 
;h  very  handsome,  open  woods, 
aks,  mingled  with  a  considera- 
'  the  oak-shaped  pine.  Inter- 
'.  these  were  bouquets  or  thick- 
kt,  and  an  abundant  white-flow- 
JW  entirely  covered  with  .small 
le  head  of  tho  valley  here 
)  is  watered  by  many  small 
'^  fertile  bottom"  lands,  with  a 
grass  and  acorns.  In  about 
crossed  a  creek  20  or  25  (cei 
eral  miles  farther  descended 
mttoms  of  a  swill  stream  about 
,  called  Cow  creek,  s(;  named 
njfo  of  a  small  band  of  cattle, 
here  frciia  a  party  on  their  wav 
'bey  are  eiiiirely  wild,  and  .ire 
licr  e-ame.     A  "lartie   bo.:,d  of 


UPON  ITPKR  TAMFORNIA. 


19 


nT)'.>:.-p^  was  seen  m  the  liiulier.  mil  live  or  ' 
■■v   ct.""r  came  darliiitf   Ihroujjh   the   w.imls.  i 
\\\  a'ltelopo  and   :"'\.'ral   deer  were   killed. 
"i\.  re  a]ipear  to  be  two  species  of  I  lir.-e  deer  j 
—     ill  df  the    kind   e-eiierally  called    black- 
MU^^  \  one.  a  larirer  >pecies  freipieniinir  the 
.iiriries  and  lnwer  L;rdiii!ils  ;  the  other,  iiuich 
.  iier.  and   I'diiin!   in   the   i;;diintaiiis  only. 
Tr-'  mountains  in  tin-  northeast    were  black 
v.'iili  clouds  wli'ii  \v.'  reached  the  creek,  and 
■■e,'y  soon  .'  lie^'e  bail  ^tdrln  burst  down  on 
11.',  scatterini,'  our  animals  and  cdverin;Lr  the 
j'-^'und  an  inch  in  depth  w  illi  li.iilstones  about 
t!::  -izo  of  wild   cherries.     The   face  of  the 
c.,>in,iry  appeared   as   whitened  by  a  fail  of 
snow,  and  the  wealber  became  iinpleasanlly 
cnid.     'i'he  eveniiej  closed  in  with  rain,  and 
t,huiii!;r  ri.lliiiir  aniiiiul  llie  bills.     Onreleva- 
tic;i  J.TiMi'is  between  l.OOOand  1.10(1  feet. 
At  .-iiiiriso  the  ne\t  mdrninj;  the  tliermoui- 
ctor  was  at  .TIJ".     The  surrouniliuLr  nioun- 
ta'.t'.s  showed  a  cdiitiiiuiiii.-.  liiu^  df  snow,  and 
tho  liiifh  ))eaks  Iddkeil  wintry.     Turning;  to 
tho  soiitbwin'd.  we  retraced   our  steps  down 
tho  valley,    ;'.!id    reached   .Mr.    Lassen"s,  on 
Deer  river,  on  the  eveiiinu'of  the  11th.     'J'he 
Sacramento  botloms  between  .Antelope  and 
Deer  river  were  covered  with  oats,  which 
had  attained  their  full  lieinbt.  pi-owin^  as  in 
sow  n  fields.     The  country  here  exhibited  the 
maturity  of  spriiiir.     The  California  pojipy 
was  every  where   foriuiiifj   ;-eod  pods,  and 
many  jilants  were  in  (lower  and  seed  ton-ether. 
Some  varieties  of  clover  were  just  befi'innini; 
to  bloom.     By  the  middle  of  the  month  the 
seed  vessels  of  the  California  poppy,  which, 
from  its  characteristic  abundance,  is  a  promi- 
nent feature  in  the  verrotation,  had  attained 
their  full  size  ;  but  the  seeds  of  this  and 
many  other  plants,  althouoh  fully   formed, 
were  still  fireen  colored,  and    not  entirely 
ripe.     At  this  time  I  obtained   from  the  San 
.Toaqnin  valley  seeds  of  the  jioppy,  and  other 
plants,  black  and  fully  ri]ie,  while  they  still 
remained  preen  in  tiiis  part  of  the  Sacra- 
mento— the  elVect  of  a  warmer  climate  in 
the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin.     The  moan 
temperature  for  14  davs,  from  the  lOlh  to  the 
24th  of  April,  was  43°  at  sunrise,  .08°  at  9 
in  the  morning,  04°  at  noon,  ()li°  at  2  in  the 
afternoon,  bit"  at  4,  and  58°  at  sunset,  (lati- 
tude 40°.)   The  thermonieter  rainred  at  sun- 
rise from  38°  to  51°,  at  4  (wlJch  is  the  hot- 
test of  those  hours  of  the  day  when  the 
temperature  was  noted)   from  53'^^  to  88°, 
and  at  sunset  from  4i»''  to  ().0°.     The  dew 
po,  It  was  40. "3  at  sunri.se,  47.°3  at  !)  in  the 
morninp-,  46.°1  at  noon,  4!). "2  at  2  in  the  af- 
ternoon, 4I).°2  at  4,  and  4()."(1  at  sunset ; 
and  the  quantity  ol'  moisture  in  a  cubic  foot 
of  air  at  correspondinij  times  was  3.ers.l0l, 
3.frrs.882,   3.i.rrs.Si)7.    4.<;rs.213,    4.uts.217, 
o.urs.881,   respectively.      'i'lie    winds    tluc- 
tiialed  between  iiiirtliwe-t  and  southeast,  the 


teiiipeiTliHT  depeiidiii'^  more  iip.ni  the  state 
of  ilie  sky  than  the  direction  oi  the  winds — 
a  clouded  sky  ah',  ays  lnwirinp  the  llieruidme- 
ter  tilteen  or  twenty  decrees  in  a  sli'irt  time 
Kiir  the  greater  iniinber  iif  the  davs  abiive 
[iiveii.  the  sl;y  \\;\'  id\creiland  tlie  atiiio- 
sjihere  frequently  thick,  wil 


from  t!io  lIMh  to  the 
On   the  2.')lli    .Mav, 

nil. 


:iil 


rain  at  intervals 
to   this 


\\i'  r.'tiirri 
place  (I.assen'sj  iVdiu  an  e.xcur-ion  to  the 
Upper  SacraiM'iild.  The  plant-  we  bad  left 
in  bloom  weiv  now  ireiierallv  in  .-eed  ;  and 
many,  iiicliiilin  r  the  ciraructerislic  plants, 
perfectly  ripe.  The  mean  temperature  df  a 
W'W  days  endiiii;  .May.  was  5  l°.7  at  sunrise, 
70".()  at  noon,  ami  i;7".3  at  siiii.set.  Tra- 
vellinir  soiiih  into  the  more  open  and  wider 
|)art  of  the  valley  where  tho  bordering 
mountains  are  lower  :vnd  showed  less  snow, 
tho  temperature  increasiil  rapidly,  .\t  the 
Ifiil/i's — an  isolated  moinilaiii  ridpe  about  si,\ 
miles  loiiij  and  .about  2.'i!in  leet  above  tho 
sea — the  iiiorniups  were  pleasantly  cool  for 
a  few  hours,  but  before  ten  the  heat  of  the 
Mill  became  very  preat.  tlidunh  usually  tem- 
jiered  by  a  refreshiui,'  breeze.  The  beat 
was  usually  the  ixreatest  abiiut  fdiir  in  tho 
aftenidiin.  'J'he  mean  temperature  from 
May  27th  to  .lune  (itli,  was  til",  at  sunrise, 
7it°.  at  nine  in  the  morninix,  80'-'.  at  noon, 
i)l)°.  at  two  in  the  afternoon,  (M°.  at  four, 
and  80°.  at  sunset,  ranirin;:  from  53".  to 
79".  at  sunrise— from  85^.  to  98=".  at  four 
in  the  afternoon — and  from  73°.  to  89".  at 
sunset.  Tho  place  of  observation  was  at 
the  eastern  base  of  the  H)i!lrs.  about  SOO 
feet  above  tho  sea,  latitude  39"  12',  and  one 
of  the  warmest  situations  in  the  Sacramonto 
vallev.  At  corresiiondintf  times  the  dew 
point  was  ,it  .50.",),  f>2.°l.  00. ".5,  (;8.°2, 
()H."0,  00. "9,  and  the  quantity  of  nioistnre 
in  a  cubic  foot  ol'  air  5.ers.253,  O.srs.318, 
7.<rrs.l91.7.j;is.!9.5.7.frrs.l04,and7!i;TS.269 
respectively.  We  felt  the  heat  here  more 
sensibly  than  at  any  other  place  where  our 
journeying  brought  us  in  California.  The 
Imntcrs  always  left  the  camp  before  daylirrht, 
and  were  in  by  nine  o'clock,  after  which  the 
sun  firew  hot.  (Jauio  was  very  fat  and 
abundant;  upwards  of  eiplily  deer,  elk,  and 
hear  were  killed  in  oiit>  morniuir.  The  ranijc 
consisted  of  e.\ccllent  <rrasses,  wild  oats  in 
lields,  red  and  other  varieties  of  clover, 
some  of  which  were  now  in  mature  seed 
and  others  bojiinninj;'  to  ilowcr.  C)ats  were 
now  dryiuir  in  level  j)laces  where  exposed 
to  the  full  influence  of  the  sun,  remainin 
frreen  in  moister  places  and  on  the  hi 
slopes. 

The  mean  temperature  of  the  open  valley 
between  the  Buttes  and  tho  .American  fork 
from  the  8th  to  the  21st  .Fuue.  was  fi7".  at 
sunrise.  74"  at  nine  in  the  moriiiiii::,  85"  at 
noon.  87^  at  two  in  tlif  al'ternoon,  88°.  at 


30 


GiXHWi.vrincAL  :\ii;.MoiR 


Coiir,  iinil  77".  iit  i^iiiii-it  ;  riui;;lM^'  iit  r^imrii^c 
from  ."il".  t(.(;i". ;  at  1  iVoiii  si",  lo  <|-"., 
mid  ill  .MiMM't  Irom  71".  to  S,-)°.  'I'lic  di'w 
point  ill  ci  rropoiulin^jj  tiiiirs  \\\\.<  ,02". S, 
6S°.H.  i;::  .1.  iiti".H,  (ij".."),  (iO".7,  1111(1  tlii< 
(limntity  of  iiioir-tiirc  in  u  ciiliic  foot  of  iiir 
bi'iiij;  -I. (is:;  jjr.-i.,  5.70!>  jrrs.,  (i.U^O  (,'rs., 
7.'_'I7  frrs  ,  ().;t77  i;rs..  T).!)';}  1,'r.-;..  rc-^in-rt- 
ivoly. 

W'fslrrn  Shii'i-  III'  Ihr  Surra  \i  aula. — 
Tlic  wo-tcrii  lliiiik  of  this  Sicrni  lu^lon^'s  lo 
tlio  iimriliiiii'  rcoion  of  ("!ilifoiiiiii.  and  is  cii- 
naljjf  of  iiildiii'j  nrc'iitly  lo  ils  vaiiii'.  It  is  a 
ioii;j,  widr  slo|ii',  timlirrcd  and  yrassy,  uilli 
ilitorvals  of  aralilo  land,  copiously  watered 
with  mnncroiis  and  hold  streams,  and  without 
tilt;  colli  which  its  name  and  altitndf  mifiht 
imply.  In  lentil li  it  is  iho  whohr  cvtenl  of 
tho  lonfT  valley  at  its  hase,  live  hundred 
miles.  In  hreadth,it  is  from  forty  to  seventy 
milp.s  from  the  smriniit  of  the  mountain  to 
the  termination  ol'  the  foot  hills  in  the  oilije 
of  the  valleys  below,  and  almost  the  whole 
of  it  iuailahle  for  some  nsol'nl  purpose — 
timber,  ])astura;;'e,  some  arable  land,  mills, 
quarries — and  so  situated  as  lo  be  conven- 
ient for  lisp,  the  wide  slope  of  tho  mountain 
beinifof  easy  and  pnicticable  descent.  'J'ini- 
lier  liolds  \\\o  lirst  place  in  the  advantaijes  of 
this  slope,  the  whole  beinii  hcivily  wooded, 
first  with  oaks,  which  ])redominate  to  about 
half  the  elevation  of  I  he  monnlaiii ;  and  then 
with  pines,  cypress,  and  cedars,  the  pines 
predominatini; ;  and  hence,  called  the  pine 
rei,'ion,as  that  below  iscalled  the  oak  region, 
thuufi'li  mi.xed  with  other  trees.  Tho  hii^hest 
feuminits  of  the  Sierra  are  naked,  massive 
granite  rock,  covered  with  snow,  in  sheltered 
places  all  the  year  round.  Tho  oaks  are 
several  varieties  of  white  and  black  oak,  and 
overirreens,  some  of  them  rescmblinji;  live 
oak.  Of  the  white  oak  there  are  some  new 
species, attaininir  a  liandsomo  elevation,  upon 
<i  stem  si.x  tei!t  in  diameter.  Acorns  of  un- 
common size,  and  not  had  taste,  used  re<ju- 
larly  for  food  by  the  Indians,  abound  on  these 
trees,  and  will  be  of  frroat  value  for  stock. 
Tho  cypress,  pine,  and  cedar  are  between 
100  and  -JaO  feet  hii:h,and  live  to  twelve  feet 
in  diameler,  with  ck-an  solid  stems.  Grass 
abounds  on  almost  all  parts  of  tho  slope  ; 
except  towards  the  hiirhest  siiuimits.  and  is 
fresh  and  jireen  all  the  year  niiind,  bein^' 
neither  killed  by  coUl  in  the  winter,  nor 
dried  by  want  of  rain  in  the  smniuer.  The 
foot  hills  of  the  slope  are  siilliciently  fertile 
and  <ientle  to  admit  of  ji-ood  setlleiucnts ; 
while  valleys,  coves,  beaches  and  meadows 
of  arable  land  are  found  throuiihoiit.  .Many 
of  the  miiuei-ous  streams,  siane  of  them 
ammnitiiiy  to  considerable  rivers,  which  llov\' 
down  liie  inoimliiin  side,  make  handsome, 
fertile  v.ilk'xs.  All  tlie>e  streams  furnish 
good    water    pi  w ';        Die   climate   in   the 


'oucr  part  of  the  .slope  is  thai  o*"  e  •  ^''aiii, 
spriiif.'.  v.liile  abo\e,  the  cold  is  not  In  it".  • 
portion  lo  the  elevation.  Such  islliei;e  •■..'.'.[ 
view  of  till'  western  slope  of  lb,!  j;i,sit  i.ii- 
errii  ;  hut  deeniiiiif  that  all  jjeiieral  vlewc 
sJioiild  rest  upon  po>ilive  (/'//(/,  I  add  some 
notes  taken  from  actual  observalions  i.r!,lft 
in  dill'erent  a-cnls  and  de.-  eiils  in  the 
winter  and  S|iriui,f  of  IS  I,")- Hi,  and  in  dif- 
ferent (leL'ri'i's  of  latitude  Irom  iij'^  to  41". 

Ihrimtiir   .|,    ISI;"). — l)escenl    from    tiie 

pass,  at  the  head  of  Salmon   'iVoiit  river, 

I  lalitiKJe  lilt'-'  17',  elevation  7.-_'(i()  leet.     A'  a 

I  in  the  aflernoon   the   lempi'ralare  at  -Iti",  at 

sunset  :!  l",  at  sunrise  ni'.'it  morninij  2J"i 

\  the  sky  perfectly  clear;  no  snow  in  the  pass, 

I  but  much  on  tla^  mountain  to|is.     Here  the 

present   emiirrant    road    now   crosses.      A 

;  fork  of   Hear  river  (a  considerable  stream 

[  tributary  to  Feather  river,  wliicn   falls  into 

the  Sacramento)  leads  from  the  pass,  and  the 

j  road   follows  it ;  hut  lindintf  ibis  a  ruifiiea 

way,  wo  turned  to  the  south,  and  encamped 

'  in  a  mountain  meadow  of  ii-ood  ifreen  jjras.s. 

A  yi'llow  moss  very  abundant  on  tho   north 

sides  of  the  pines. 

Dfcimlirr  (). — The  route  was  over  good 
travellincr  crnmiid,  throiij^di  open  pine  forest 
on  a  broad,  leadinjf  rid^'e,  afrordiiiL,'  an  e.vceU 
lent   road.     A  species  of  cedar  {Tliiu/a  gi- 
;  ifiinlifi)    occurred,    often    of  extraordinary 
heiirlit  and  size.     I'inits  h/inlirrliiiiii  was  one 
of  the    most  frequent   trees,  di-tinifiiished 
,  amoiifi;  cone  heariiifj  tribes  by  the  loiiffth  of 
its   cones,   sometimes   .sixteen   or    eij;htcen 
j  inches  loiii;.     Tiio  Indians  eat  the  inner  part 
I  of  the  burr,  and  laive  heaps  of  them  were 
j  seen  where  they  had  been  colK'cted.     Leav- 
I  itifr    the    hijiher    ridijes,   and    fiaiiiinj^    the 
smoother  spurs,  and  descendinij  about  4,000 
feet,  the  face  of  the  country  chan;;ed  rapidly, 
The  country  became  low,  rollin;:,  tmd  pretty  ; 
the  pines  beijan  to  disappear,  and  varieties 
of  oak,  and  (jrincipjdiy  an  everiireen  resem- 
bliiiir  live  oak,   became   tho   |)re(lominatinj; 
forest  fiTowtli.     These  oaks  bcari;reat  qiiaii- 
i  titles  ol  larijo  acorns,  the  princip.il  food  of  all 
,  the  Willi  Indians.     At  a  village  of  a  few  huts 
]  which  we  came  upon,  there  was  a  larfjo  supply 
of  these  acorns — ei<rbl  or  ten  cribs  of  wicker 
work,  containiiiii;  abiuit  twi'iily  bushels  each. 
The  best  acorns  ari^  obtained  from  a  lar"c 
tree  bel'iiiniuM-  to  the  division  of  white  oaivs, 
which  is  very  abundant,  and  ijeneriilly  forin.s 
the  oroves  on  the  botlom  lands  of  the  streams 
— .-tandinii-  apart,  with  a  clean   underfjrowlh 
of  !.ira>s,  jiiviiifj  them  the  appearance  of  cul- 
tix.ited   parks.     It  is  a  noble   forest  tree,  al- 
ready mentioned  as  a  new  species,  sixty  to 
ei;;lily  feet   hijih,  with  a  tufted   snimnit  of 
spreadini,'  branches,  and  frequently  attains  a 
diameter    of    six    feet.       Tlie     lari;est     we 
measured  reached  eleven   feet.     The  evur- 
I  jrreeii    oaks  jreiierally  have  a  low  };rowlii, 


tlin  i.li>|)(>  is  ilial  o*"  c  •.":..''aTn, 
ilimc,  ilic  fold  is  iKit  in  j"'^ 
li'valion.     Such  isllit>i»p  :  'il 

'stern  s|(i|)i'  (if  lli.>  ^\\';\t  bi- 
liiiiii,'  lli;it  all  jji'Mi'i'al  vii.'wc 
(111  posilivc  (lii'ii,  I  add  .soiiiC 
nil  iictiial  iiliscrviiliiiiis  i.rultj 
•■(■('Ills  imd  dc-  cull  in  llii' 
•1111,'  of  IS  I,")- Hi,  and  in  dif- 
1)1'  laliliidc  Iroiii  ii.)"^  to  41". 
,  IKI;'). — l)tsciMit  froiil  tiie 
I'ud  of  Saliiioii  'JVoiit.  rivof, 
',  clination  7.J(iO  Irct.  A:  3 
I  llic  l('iii|H'ral;iiv  at  4t)",  at 
sunrise  ni'\t  iiioniinij  ^.i'^ , 
ly  clrar;  no  snow  in  llio  pass, 

0  inoiintain  tops.  IKmo  the 
lilt  road  now  crossos.  A 
river  (a  I'oiisiderable  stream 
atlier  river,  wliicn  I'alU  into 
i)  leails  IVoiii  the  pass,  and  the 

;  but  lindintf  this  a  nifrfiou 

1  to  the  south,  and  encamped 
neadow  ol  yood  ;j;re('ii  ^rass. 

very  nhiindant  on  llio  north 
les. 

— Tlio  route  was  over  good 
lid,  throiijfji  open  pine  forest 
liniX  rid^'c,  alVoriliiiu  an  exceU 
species  of  cedar  {Tliiii/u  ^i- 
red,  often  of  extraordinary 
.  I'iiiiis  liiiiilirrliiiiti  was  one 
Freipient  trees,  di,-tin<jiiishcd 
:irin;r  tribes  by  the  leiiirth  of 
letinies  sixteen  or  eijjhtcen 
Die  Indians  eat  the  inner  part 
il  larL'e  heaps  of  them  were 
y  had  been  cohv'cted.  Leav- 
er riijires,  and  fiaiiiinj^  the 
,  and  descendinij  about  4,000 
r  the  country  chan;ied  rapidly, 
'camo  low,  rollin;:,  and  pretty  ; 
11  to  disappear,  and  varieties 
R'ipjilly  an  everiireen  resein- 

bocanie   the   |)redominatinj; 

These  oaks  bcari;reat  rpiaii- 
coriis,  the  principal  food  of  all 
».  At  a  village  of  a  few  liuta 
upon,  there  was  a  lar;:o  supply 
— eiirjit  or  ten  cribs  of  wicker 
ig  about  twenty  bushels  each. 
IS  are  obtained  from  a  lar"c 
to  the  division  of  white  oaivs, 
bmidanl,  and  i;eneriilly  form.s 
lie  bottom  lands  of  the  streams 
rt,  with  a  clean  iinderfjrowth 
;  them  the  appearance  of  cul- 

It  is  a  noI)lc  forest  tree,  ai- 
(1  as  a  new  species,  sixty  to 
I'll,  with  a  tufted  summit  of 
•lies,  and  frequently  attains  a 
ix  feet.  The  lari;est  we 
lied  eleven  feel.  The  ever- 
?norally  liave  a  knv  {jrowlh, 


tirON  UrPKR  CAL1I'(»UNI.\ 


91 


wi'Ji  loni;  brunches  and  spreadinii  tops. 
iSniiie  (if  them  are  siiilablt-  for  ship  timber, 
iiiid    have  already    bei  ii   ii--i  d   lor   that    piir- 

I •■ 

At   our  eveniiifi  eiicampinent   ol  the  Mb, 

v.'hicli  was  at  an  elevation  of  five  hundred 
feel  above-  the  sen.  lat.liide  IW"  .Oil', 
ami  distant  from  the  .-ea-coast  about  one 
buiidred  miles,  the  temperature  at  sunset 
was  4S'^'.  the  sky  clear  and  calm,  weather 
(ieliuhtfiil.  and  the  venetation  that  of  early 
spriiiij'.  We  were  still  U|)oli  the  foot  lulls  of 
the  mountain,  where  the  soil  is  sheltered  by 
W'Hids,  and  where  rain  fills  much  nmre  ire- 
iiueiitly  than  in  the  open  Sacramento  valley, 
i;i:ar  the  edrje  of  which  wi^  tlien  were.  I 
havi^  been  in  copious,  continuous  rains  of 
ei^'lileeii  or  twenty  hours'  duration  in  the  oak 
r''i;ioii  of  the  luiumtain,  when  not  a  drop  j 
fell  in  the  valley  below.  Innumerable  siuiill  [ 
st'-'.'ams  have  their  rise  and  course  throiiirli  \ 
tb.  *e  foot  hills,  which  never  reach  the  river  j 
of  the  valley,  but  an>  ab-orbed  in  its  lin;lit 
soil.  The  lariie  streams  cominir  from  the 
upper  parts  of  the  mountain  maki;  valleys  of 
their  own,  of  fertile  soil,  covered  with  luxu- 
riant (nass  and  interspersed  with  proves. 
'J'his  is  the  /.feueral  character  of  the  foot 
hills  tlirouifbout  the  entire  len^rth  of  the  Sac- 
ramen:,)  and  San  .loiupiin  valley.s — a  broad 
belt  of  country,  and  probably  destiiieil  .to  be- 
come a  \  ine-i,'rowin<j,  as  well  as  a  j^rain  and 
jiastoral  (diiutry. 

y)ro;/i/'M- !».— I'hitered  the  valley  of  the 
Sacra"ieuto.  Fresh,  frreen  i.rrass  for  eijjlit 
or  tee  miles  into  the  valloy,  cattle  feedinpf 
uiKui  it,  or  lyin;;  under  the  shade  of  trees — 
the  sliaile  beiiiix  pleasant  to  our  own  feelin^fs. 
Further  in,  towards  tlie  midilleof  tiio  valley, 
where  the  spriiijr  rains  had  not  yet  com- 
menced, the  country  looked  parched  and  dry, 
the  ijras.s  eaten  down  by  the  cattle,  which 
were  quite  lal  and  tine  beef. 

Asci-)il,  December  and  .hinuary,  1813-'40, 
latitude  37  .  Finteriiiif  the  mountain  by  the 
Rio  Iii';/iy.i>(  Tuhire  lake,  (December  -24,) 
we  found  its  e'^iicial  character  very  similar 
to  what  it  was'  in  the  more  northern  jiart, 
(latitude  39'',)  the  timber  perhaps  less  heavy 
and  more  open,  and  the  mountain  uenerally 
more  roui;ii.  extremely  rocky  in  the  upper 
|)arts,  but  wooded  up  to  the  jiranite  riiljres 
which  coii'.pose  its  rocky  eminences.  At  the 
cievatiou  of  S.-OOO  feettlie  ri(l»es  were  cov- 
9red  with  oaks  and  pines  iiilenuixed,  and  the 
bottom  lands  with  oaks,  colt<in-wi)od,  and 
Kycaiuores.  .Small  varietiivs  of  everii'reen 
oaks  reachei!  the  observed  liei^dit  of  9,4^0 
feet,  at  which  elevatiiai  jiiiim:  linnlniiiiiiii, 
and  other  Mil '('ties  of  |)ine,  lir,  and  cypress, 
were  larcjfe  and  lofty  trees.  Diiriiiy  the 
latter  p;irt  i^f  December  and  first  days  of 
.h'.niiary  the  :,verae-e  temperatun,'  of  the  o.ik 
re'^ie.i,y:n;rir  to  about  .'3,000  feet  above  the 


Hca.  w.ir-.  at  ..-unri<e.  3l."(i',  and  lit  sun-et 
,50."  .V.  Ill  the  piiiey  re;rioii.  between  this 
heiL'ht  and  1.10  i  leet.'the  averau'i'  at  siinri^o 
was  -J.s."  7  .  anil  at  siin-et  3(1°  )'.  The  low- 
est observed  temperature  was  at  sun.-et  of 
•laniiarv  1.  ubi'ii  the  .-ky  had  entirely  cleared 
after  a  se\ ere  snow  storm.  The  thernioiiie« 
ler  then  stood  at  H,°  5,  the  elevation  above 
the  sea  beiiui  !).  100  feet.  DescendiiiL,'  Ic 
the  oak  rerjioii.  sprinj;  weather,  rain  and  sun- 
shine, |ive\ailed.  At  an  elevation  of  4,.'J0() 
feet  tlie  temperature,  lit  the  lii^ht  encamp- 
ment of  the  ;'id  day  of  .lamiary,  was  3S"  at 
sunset,  and  the  same  at  sunrise,  the  >;rass 
irreen,  and  !j;rowiiiir  freshly  under  the  oaks. 
The  snow  line  was  then  at  about  (i.OOit  feet 
above  the  level  ol  ine  .sea.  Uaiii  had  be^jiin 
to  fill  in  the  valley  of  the  San  .lo.iipiin  in 
this  latitude  (37'')  on  the  •JOtli  of  December, 
and  snow  at  the  .same  time  upon  the  summit 
of  the  mountain.  The  mean  temperature 
of  the  mountain  dnrin<r  this  ii>ceiit  and  de- 
scent (December  -24  to  .lanuary  8)  was  31". 
()'  at  sunrise.  40°.   t'  at  sunset. 

Dcscfiit  by  Mr.  Kern's  part}-,  latitude  3.'>°. 
30',   December   and    January.     .Mr.    Kern, 
with  a  detached  party  had  cros.si'd  the  Sierra 
about  one  hundred  miles  fiirlher  south,  near- 
ly opposite   the  head   of  tin-  Tulare  lakes, 
and  remained  encamped  in  a  valley  or  cove, 
:  near  the  summit  of  tli(>  Sierra,  at  the  head 
j  of  Kern's  river,  from  December  •_'7tli  to  Jan- 
;  iiary  17tli ;  the  cove  well  wooded  with  cver- 
<rree:i  oaks,  some  varieties  of  |)ine,  lirs  and 
cedars,     maintainiii!i:     the     usual    majestic 
i  trrowth,  which  characterizes  the  cone-bear- 
ni^r  trees  of  the  Sierra.     iMitil  the  TJlli  of 
.lanuary  the  weather  almost  that  of  summer, 
when    the     rains    coimuenced,    which    was 
almost  threiMveeks  later  than  in  latitude  37°. 
The  nth  there  was  a  fall  of  snow,  ^vaslled 
oil"  in  the  cove  by  a  rain  in  the  afiornoon, 
the  liijrli    ridijos   remainiuLr  co\ered   a  loot 
i  deep.  ^Tho  mean  temperature  in  the  cove 
,  from  Decemi'cr  :i7th  to  .lanuary  17ili  was  at 
'.  sunrise   '20°,   at  noon  m°,  at   siiiisef  .oJ". 
After  that,  snow  and  rain,  alternated  with 
sunshine,  snow  remaiiiiiiij'  on  the  ridi,'i-s,  and 
winter  set  in  fairly  on  all  the  upper  half  of 
the  mountain. 

Ayrrui  about  l:ititiide  41°.  (April  and 
May.)  April  'Jti,  184t)— head  of  the  lower 
Sacramento  valley.  Left  the  river  Sacra- 
mento, eoinir  up  one  of  the  many  pretty 
little  streams  that  llow  into  the  river  around 
the  bead  of  the  lower  valley.  On  either 
side,  low  steep  ridi.'es  were  covered  aIon;r 
their  summits  with  pine,  and  oaks  occupied 
the  .somewhat  broad  bottoms  of  the  creek. 
Snowy  peaks  made  the  horizon  on  the  li^lit, 
and  the  temperature  at  noon  was  7l",  but 
the  (lav  was  still  and  hot.  The  small  -treanis 
are  niinieroiis  here,  •.md  have  miicli  Imltom 
land  ;  erass  and  acorns  abundant,  and  boib 


aa 


(;i;()(;i{.\riii('Ai,  mfmoir 


of  i'\  ci'lli'nl  iinililv,  r!i;iviiii|M'c|  In  tin-  cv"!)- 
ill;,'  III  luiitiiil''  It)"  ;ih' ,')s".  cIcMiiitm  ii'invt< 
til.' ^■<'!l  I.OHit|.'..f,t,'iiiii  r.il.ir-nl  ■ilM-ft  .')(i". 
wi'MlliiT  plcii-i'itil,  (iri-ly  lii'.ir-i  imtiwrciiiH, 
lour  lii'iiii.'  kill''(l  liy  tlii'  liniitcis  iiiirr  we 
lllid  rii(Miii[)<'il. 

.l/ir(/  :i7. —  l''(iiiii(l  a  <_'0(ii|  \v;iy  .'ilinii,'  a  llaf 
rid;,'!',  !i  jirrlty.  (i|H'ii  iiiiMiMliiin  siri'am  iiii  lli(> 
riLriit.  till'  ('iiiiiiiry  lic'rimiiiiir  id  iis-^uiiic  a 
miiiinlaiiiniii  cliariictiT,  \v(I(«|imI  willi  iiiiii- 
}];l('(l  oak  iiiiil  liin^r-li'avi'il  jiiiw,  iiiiil  lia\ii|Mr  a 
siirlaci'  (if  scaltiTcil  roi'ks,  willi  ^jrasri  ami 
(liiwi'is.  At  noun,  ci'o-'siiiL''  ii  lii^l'i  riil^fi', 
till'  Ihi'nnniiirti'r  sliowod  lil".  At  iiiirlit,  at 
an  cli'valion  of  2,  IHit  Ircl,  we  ('ii('aiM|H'il  on 
a  ctmU  thai  went  roariiii.'  jnio  tlic  valley; 
tein|M'ratiirc  at  snn^i't  .'rl". 

'JHIIi,  conliiiiicil  n|>  llio  stream  on  wiiieli 
wo  had  (Mii'aiii|»ed,  llii'  roiinlry  lisinir  rapidly, 
clothed  with  heavy  limher.  On  crossin^r 
one  of  the  hiuh  rid^ies  snow  ami  jiiiiiix  Imn- 
hrrliiiiii  appeared  tojrcthpr.  An  hour  hel'ore 
noon  reached  the  pass  in  the  main  ridire,  in 
nn  open  pini'  lore^t,  elevation  -l.diK)  feet 
lliermonieter  at  .')i)°.  lalitndenear  ll".  Snow 
in  patches,  and  deciduous  oaks  mixed  with 
the  pines. 

RetMrninir  upon  u  dilFerent  line,  towards 
the  lower  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  near  its 
head,  we  found  in  the  descent  a  truly  majj- 
nilicent  forest.  It  was  composed  mainly  of 
a  cyjires.s  and  a  lotty  white  cedar  {'Vlitn/a 
f^iiranlai)  120  to  MO  feet  hiijli,)  conm  on  in 
llio  inonntain.s  of  ('alifornia.  All  were  inas- 
fiivn  trees;  hut  the  cypress  was  ilistinyiiished 
by  its  iinifonnly  <rreat  hnlk.  None  were 
seen  so  lari^e  us  are  to  he  foiuid  in  the  coast 
mouniains  near  Santa  Cm/,  lint  there  was  a 
{froator  numl)cr  of  lareii  trees — seven  feet 
beinij  a  common  diameter  —  carryini^  the 
btilk  ri^rhty  or  a  Iniiidred  feet  without  a 
limb.  At  an  elevation  of  four  thousand  si.\ 
Iiundred  feet  the  temperature  at  sunset  wa.s 
48°,  and  at  sunrise  ;n°.  Oaks  already 
appeared  amon<jf  the  pines,  but  <lid  not  yet 
siiow  a  leaf.  In  the  meadow  marshes  of  tla; 
forest  trrass  was  groen,  but  not  yet  abundant, 
and  the  doer  wcto  poor.  Desci'iidinir  the 
flanks  of  the  mountain,  which  tell  {rradnally 
towards  the  plain,  the  way  was  throiiijb  the 
fiame  deep  forest.  At  the  elevation  of  about 
3,000  feet  the  timber  bad  bi'come  more  open, 
tiic  bills  rolliiiir,  and  many  streams  made 
pretty  bottoms  <i(  rich  jirass;  the  black  oaks 
in  full  and  beautifnl  leaf  werelhirkly  studded 
amon<f  the  open  pines,  which  lia<l  become 
miicli  .smaller  and  fewer  in  variety,  and  when 
wo  lialtod  near  mid-day,  at  an  elevation  of 
2,200  foot,  we  were  in  one  of  the  most  plea- 
sant days  of  late  sprini; ;  cool  and  sunny, 
with  a  pleasant  breeze,  amidst  a  profusion  of 
various  llowers  ;  manv  trees  in  dark  summer 
foliaoe.  and  some  siil!  in  bloom.  Amonir 
these  the  white  spikes  of  the  horse-chesnut, 


common  ihrnuifh  all  the  oak  ri':.riot.,  uerti 
conspicuous.  W'e  had  airain  n 'ached  siuii- 
iner  weath"r,  and  the  li'iiipeiature  at  noon 
was  711'^. 

In  the  allernoon  we  di'sci'iiilrd  to  the  open 
valley  ot  tin-  S.icranieiilo,  l.ilOK  lei  I  lower, 
where  the  thermometer  was  liS'  at  sunset, 
and  T)  l"  at  sunrise.  This  u.as  the  besi  liin- 
bi  red  re^jion  that  I  had  seen,  and  the  more 
valuable  from  its  position  in'ar  tlie  bead  of 
the  louer  valley  of  the  S.icraiiierit..,  and 
accessible  from  its  waters. 

Jim/  III'  Sdii  Fniiiriscii  iiiul  il'piiiilinl 
fnini/ri/. — The  hay  of  S.iii  Krancisio  has 
been  celehiated,  from  the  lime  of  its  lirs'. 
discovery,  as  one  of  iIk*  linest  in  the  world, 
and  is  |u-tly  entitled  to  that  character  even 
under  the  seaman's  view  of  a  mere  harbor. 
Hut  when  all  the  nccessorv  adv,anta;jei 
which  belonir  to  jt — fertile  and  pic1iiresi|iie 
dependent  coiintrv.  mildness  and  salubrity  o. 
climate,  connexion  with  Ibi'  uri'at  interior 
valley  of  lli<'  Sacramento  and  San  ,loa()uin, 
its  vast  resources  tor  ship  tiinb-r.  f.M"iiii  ""d 
cattle — when  these  advanttim's  are  taker, 
into  the  account,  with  its  iireoirra|ihical  posi 
tion  on  the  line  of  communication  with  Asia, 
it  rises  into  an  importance  l.ir  above  licit  of 
a  mere  harbor,  and  deserves  a  particular  no- 
tice in  aiiv  account  of  maritime  ('alifornia. 
its  latitudinal  [losition  is  that  of  Lisbon;  it!i 
climate  is  that  of  southern  Italy;  stttlo- 
meiits  upon  it  for  more  than  half  a  century 
attest  its  healthiness;  bold  shores  and  moun- 
tains fjive  it  (jraiiileiir;  the  extent  and  fer- 
tility of  its  dependent  ( ntry  irive  it  irreat 

resources  for  aj;riculiure,  commerce,  and 
population. 

The  bay  of  San  Francisco  is  separated 
from  tlio  sea  by  low  mountain  ranjje^.  Look- 
iiiij  from  tho  peaks  of  the  Sierra  .Nevada,  the 
cojist  mountains  present  an  apparently  con- 
tiniions  lino,  with  only  a  sinirle  irap,  rescin- 
blini^  a  inonntnin  pass.  This  is  the  entranco 
to  tlie  fjreat  bay,  and  is  the  only  water  com- 
munication from  the  coast  to  the  interior 
coiJntry.  Approachinrj  from  the  sea,  the 
coa.st  presents  a  bold  outline.  On  the  smith, 
tho  borderinij  mountains  come  down  in  a  nar- 
row ridge  of  broken  hills,  terminating'  in  a  pre- 
cipitous point,  apunst  which  tho  sea  breaks 
heavily.  On  tho  northern  side,  tho  moun- 
tain presents  a  bold  promontory,  risinir  in  a 
few  miles  to  a  heiubt  of  two  or  three  thousand 
foot.  Between  those  points  is  the  strait — 
about  one  mile  broad,  in  tlie  narrowest  part, 
and  live  miles  loiiff  from  the  sea  to  the  bay. 
I'assinjj;  throiiirb  this  irate, •^  the  bay  opens  to 
the  ritrbt  and  left,  e.Ntendinii  in  each  direction 

*  Caltfil  ('hrijAopijliF.  ((iolilt-n  (I.itp)  on  Ifii'  ninp.  nn 
tlic  same  |>riiifi|ile  that  llio  ji.lrhor  nl'  Hijiiititnim  (Con- 
s1;mtin't|il('  aOcrwarils)  wan  calN-il  CItnjsofiraH  funlden 
Iiotn  ;  Till'  (iinn  of  Ilii'  harU  ir.  and  ii^  a-lvantaijcs  tor 
i-orniniTct'.  (ami  tliat  hct'ori'  it  bw-lmc  ;iii  i'iiltc|)Ol  oi 
eastern   coiiunerci',)    su^zge-leil    the    iiuim;    lu    ilie  Gretli 


Ii   nil  lilt"  link   ri'irini.,  wcrn 

i\'l'    llllll    IlL'iUM    ri'iU  llCll  HIIIH" 

III   tlic  t('iii|»'intiiri'  itt  liooii 

MM  \vc  ili'sci'iuli'il  to  llic  open 
icniiiicnlo,  l.tiiiil  ici  t  lower, 
miiiic'tcr  \v;iH  lis'  til  siimof, 

ISC.       'I'llis    U.l-:  IJM'  lll'.-l   liiu- 

t  I  linil  sci'ii,  .'iiiil  llio  innro 
ts  pii^iliiiii  iii'ar  Ilii'  ImvuI  cf 
y  of  till'  .S.icniiui'iil.i,  iinil 
il-*  watcr-i. 

/''rdiiriarii  iiiiil  ilpindfnt 
l)uy  "I  S.iii  l''i'iiiici-i(o  hiis 
,  frniii  till"  liiiii'  111'  ill  tirs'. 
in  ot'  llio  liiii'^t  III  till'  world, 
litlcd  to  tliiit  clmricti'r  cvpit 
n's   view  of  11  niric  li;irl)(>r. 

till'  iici'i'ssorv  iiilvaiitii;j('i 
)  it — I'l'i'lili'  anil  |>i('tiir('si|iii' 
ry.  iiiililni'r*-'  ami  saliilirity  o. 
iiMi  wiili  till'  irri'iit  iiiti'rior 
icraiiiriili)  ami  Sail  .liia()iiiii, 
's  for  slii|)  liinli!'!'.  frraiii  iiiid 
loso  nilvaiittim'-^  arc  taken 
it,  with  its  iiri'iiiri"i|'liical  posi 
1)1'  coiiiiiiiiiiii'atiiiii  with  Ai^ia, 

iniportaiu'c  far  almvc  llrit  of 
mil  deserves  a  iiarticidar  iio- 
niint  ot'  iiiaritiiHc  ( 'alit'uriiin. 
ositioii   is  that  of  l.ishim;  itii 

of  sdiilherii  Italy;  s(;t,tle- 
for  more  than  half  a  century 
ness;  hold  shores  and  iiioiin- 
raiiileiir;  the  extent  and  fer- 

endent  ( iitry  irive  it  ifreat 

ii^rieiillnre,   coiiiinerce,    anil 

San  P'rnncisro  is  separated 
low  nioiinlaiii  ranire^.  Look- 
iks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the 
<  present  an  apparently  con- 
itli  only  a  sinirle  jrap,  resoin- 
1  ])ass.  This  is  the  entrance 
,  and  is  the  only  water  coin- 
n  the  coast  to  the  interior 
•oachinij  from  the  sea,  the 
hold  outline.  On  the  south, 
iiiiitains  come  down  in  a  Dar- 
ken hills,  termiiiatin^r  in  a  pre- 
ifrainst  which  the  sea  lireaks 
le  northern  side,  the  inoun- 
)old  promontory.  risiii<r  in  a 
'iijfht  of  two  or  three  thousand 
these  points  is  the  strait — 
iroad.  in  the  narrowest  part, 
mrf  from  the  sea  to  the  bay. 
1  this  irate, •^  the  bay  opens  to 
'I,  extendinij  in  each  direction 

iiliF.  ((ioUfii  ff.itp)  Oil  i!ti'  innp,  i:n 
:tmi  ilit»  li.irhor  nl'  Hijuititimn  (t'on- 
isy  W.1H  ralli'ii  Clinjstiftra!*  fynlden 
f  Ilic  liiirli  ir,  [UHJ  ii- ;nl\  iintaijrs  tor 
It  lift'ori'  it  lieclMlf  ;iii  i*iiIi(*|iol  ol' 
suiTjje^leil    tliu    nunu;    lu    ilitj  Urt'tl^ 


ITON  I'i'l'KU  CALIFOUNIA 


98 


about  It 

'!i.'n"'i 

.llMil    li, 

!l,iv,'    ..' 

t  'A  1  ■    . ,  I  ■  ■ 
\V,!|iill, 

O'.l  .     I  |i| 

lal,e  rf 

laii^i- 


mile-.  ha\ini^  a  lol.-d  l.'ti;,'lli 's!  imifi' 
mil  a  coi't  of  iiliniil  'J".!  iiiili'^.  It  1- 
ly  .trails  iiiid  projecliii!,'  puiiil-',  .iito 
liii-ale  li.iy,  of  whiidi  the  northern 
lli'd  Sin  I'ablo  anil  Siii-ooii  b;  ys. 
Ill'  V  i'  \r  presented  is  of  ii  niountain- 
ilrv.  ilie  li:;y  re-emhliiiH  an  iiiterior 
leep  ViiiT.  Kill;;  belweeii  |iiirallel 
il  tmmi.i  ill-,  l-laiiils,  which  have 
the  lioli;  ih.irai  ler  nt  the  >liorcs — some  ment 
iiias.-e-  il  riM  1<,  and  utliers  }.'ras.--covered, 
risiii!,'  I"  'he  hi'iuhi  i.f  three  iind  eiirlit  liiin- 
(Irnl  I'rel — hr^'aU  It.-  surface  anil  adil  to  its 
plitiiies.pie  .appearance.  Directly  frolitiii^r 
the  enlraiKe.  moiitilaiiis  a  few  miles  froiii 
the  slmre  ri-e  ali'ail  •.'.ODD  feel  above  the 
Wilier,  crowned  by  a  forest  of  the  lofty  nj- 
vrrss,  which  is  vi^-ible  from  the  sea,  iiihI 
ii'.ake-i  a  con>piciioii>  landtiiark  for  vessels 
iiiterinir  the  bay.  Hi'liind,  the  ru^rireil  peak 
1,1  MoHiil  Di-i'nJn,  nearly  l.dOO  li'et  hinli. 
(3.770;  overlooks  llie  surrouiulin;!  country 
of  the  hay  and  San  .loaipiin. 

The  immeiiiate  shore  of  the  buy  derives, 
from  its  pio.vimate  anil  opposite  relation  to 
the  sea,  the  nniiie  of  nmlra  cos/a  (counter- 
coast,  or  opp.v-iie  coiist).    It  presents  a  varied 
I'hariicler  ol  ru:.'Lred  and  broken  hills,  rolliiii; 
ami  uniiiilaliiit;'  laud,  and  rich  allnvitd  shores 
racked  by  fi'itile  and  wooded  ranges,  siiiltihle 
•..r  towns.  NillaL'es.  and  hirms,  with  which  it 
.s    beirinniiii;  In  be  doited.     A  low  alluvial 
bottom  l.iiiil,  sevral  miles  in  breadth,  with 
(u'casioiiai  open  woods  of  oak.  borders  the 
foot  of  till'  inoiintaius  around   the  southern 
arm  of  the  hay,  termiiiatini;  on  a  breadlh  of 
twiiity  miles  in  the  fertile  \alley  of  St.  Jo- 
sepii,  II  narrow  plain  of  rich  soil,  lyiiif;  he- 
I'veeii  raiiires  from  two  to  three  tliousanil 
'c('t  hii_rli.      The  valley  is  ojienly  wooded,  j 
Willi  irroves  of  oak,  free  from  nnderbnish,  j 
and  after  the  spring'  rains  covered  with  ^rrass.  | 
Taken  in  connection  with  the  valley  of  San  \ 
.'utiii,  with  which  it  forms  a  continuous  plain,  i 
il  is  lifiv-live  miies  Ion;.' and  one  to  twenty  j 
broad.  openiuLi'    inio   smaller  valleys   anion;,'  | 
llie  hills.    At  the  bead  of  the  bay  it  is  twenty  ! 
miles  broad,  and  tibout  the  same  at  the  south- 
ern end.  wlcre  the  soil  is  beautifully  fertile,  , 
covered  in  siimnier  with  four  or  live  varieties  < 
of  wild  clover  several  feet  liijrli.     In  nitiiiy 
places   it   is   overirrown  with  wild  mustard,  , 
MTiiwinir  ten  or  twelve  feet  liiyli,  in  almo.-t 
impenetnilile  lields,  tliroiiy:h  wliicli  roads  are 
luade   like   lanes.     On  both  sides  the  iiiniin- 
ttiiiis   are   fertile,  wooded,  or  covered  willi 
;;iasses  and  scattered  trees.     On  the  west  il 
is  protected   from  the  cliillinu;  inlliienre  o\' 
\\v  northwest  winds  by  the  vua-tii  d'  /".<  ita- 
'ii\.  (wild-cat  rid;re),  which  sepanites  it  I'miii 


the  ciia,-l.  Tlii-^  I'  a  !.rrii--y  iitid  liinti  red 
itioiinl.iin,  watered  wiili  smali  ftriMui-.  and 
wooded  on  both  >ideH  with  many  varieties  of 
trees  iiiiil  sbriihhery,  the  heavii-r  forests  of 
pine    iiiid    cvpress   occiipviie^'    the    wcfleri' 


0(1111. 'its  o*'  H\/:mlinin. 
■in    1. 1\  iif  S:iti    I' run'M.c-. 
HUM.  .■     :  A-i:itic   in'-lti^ivf 
gocL  U)  this  eul  itiice. 


Tilt'  fonn  of  tlic  iMit:aiici?  nCii 
.,  aii'I  |1>  .'Hh  i.ii'M'.'p^  tor  ciMii 
I    -li:;"iNt    llif    nauiH    which     v 


lope.  Timber  and  shinjrlcs  are  now  obiiiiii- 
eil  IV'tu  this  mount. liii  ;  and  one  ot  t|," 
receiillv  discovered  i|iiicksil\,'r  niiiies  is  on 
the  eastern  ^ide  of  the  motinlain,  near  llm 
I'lii'blo  of  San  .\ii^i.  This  raiiije  termiii,ile.'< 
on  the  south  in  the  Aiuin  .\iiiki  point  of 
Monterey  bay,  and  on  the  norlli  declines  into 
a  rid;,'!'  (if  broken  hills  about  live  miles  wide, 
between  the  bav  ami  the  m'.i.  iind  liaviii;,'  tlie 
town  of  San  f'raiicisco  on  the  bay  shore, 
near  its  northern  eNlreniily. 

Sheltered  Iroiii  the  cold  winds  imil  fo^s  of 
the  sea,  iiiid  liavini.'  ti  soil  of  reirarkable  fer- 
tility, the  valley  of  St.  .losepli  (San  .lose)  is 
capiible  of  |iroduciu;_r  in  :,'reat  perfection 
many  fruits  and  trraiiis  which  do  not  thrive 
on  II ist  in'its  imnieiliale  vicinity.  With- 
out takin;r  into  coii>ideralion  the  e.xlraordi- 
liary  yields  which  have  sometimes  occurred, 
thefair  average  iirndiicl  of  wheat  is  estimated 
lit  lifty  fold,  or  lilty  for  one  sown.  The  mis- 
sion eslablishnienfs  of  Nrncf  Cliini  and  .S(//i 
JtH'i,  in  the  north  end  of  the  vallev,  were 
formerly,  in  the  prosperous  dayn  of  tlie  mis- 
sions, (listiii;;uishcd  for  the  superiority  of 
their  wheal  crops. 

'I'lie  slope  of  alluvial  laud  conlinues  en- 
tirely around  the  eastern  slioie  of  the_  hay, 
intersected  by  small  streams,  and  olleriiifj 
some  points  which  frood  laiiiliii;T  imd  deep 
water,  with  a(lvimta;.reotis  petitions  between 
the  sea  and  interior  country,  indicate  for 
future  selllement. 

The  strait  of  i'lirijiihirf,  about  one  mile 
wide  iind  ei;i'ht  or  ten  fal boms  deep,  ronnect.s 
the  San  I'ahlo  ami  Snisoon  bays.  Around 
these  bays  smaller  valleys  open  into  the  bor- 
deriii;;  coiiiilry,  and  some  of  the  stream.s 
have  a  short  laiinch  navinnlion,  which  serve.s 
to  convey  produce  to  the  bay.  Jlissions  and 
larij-e  faiius  were  established  at  the  head  of 
na\i;.'alioii  on  these  streams,  which  are  favor- 
able sites  for  towns  or  villaires.  The  country 
around  tl'c  Suisoon  h.iy  pre-enis  smooth  low 
ridires  a  ,<l  rounded  hills,  clothed  with  wild 
oats,  aim  more  or  less  ojienly  wooded  on 
their  summits.  A|iproacliin;r  its  nmlhern 
shores  from  Samiinn,  it  assumes,  IIioiiljIi  in 
a  state  of  nature,  a  ciiltiviited  and  beautiful 
appearance.  Wilil  oats  cover  il  in  conlinu- 
oiis  lielils,  and  herds  of  cattle  and  bands  of 
horM's  are  scattered  over  low  lulls  and  partly 
isolated  riil;res,  where  blue  ini-ls  and  open- 
iii;:s  anioui;  tlie  abruptly  tenninatin;^  \\\\\~ 
indicate  the  nei^;bborliood  of  the  bay. 

The  Siiisiiiin  is  connecleil  with  an  ixptui 
siou  of  the  river  formed  by  the  jiincliou  ot' 
\\v  Sacr.iinenio  and  San  Joaquin,  which  en- 
ter 'iie  Francisco  Jav  m  'i.e   -iniv^'  latitude. 


114 


(ilKKIUAl'IIK  Al,  MI'MoIR 


iic.irlv.  11-  llii'  iiiniilli  (if  llii>  'I'li'^iiJ  at  l,i-!Miii. 
A  (li'liii  111  iwcntv-liM'  irijliw  ill  li'ii.;!li.  iliuili'il 
iniii  i-liiiiil-  liy  ilr<>|i  (■liiitiii''!-',  cniiMfrtH  till- 
liiiy  Willi  till'  vulli'v  III  till'  S.iii  .lo^i'injii  mil 
Sui  rmiit'iilK,  iiilo  llii'  iiihiiIIk  oI  wliirli  llii' 
tiili'  lln\\,j,  and  wliicli  Ciller  the  liay  tncrcthrr 
I'  mil'  riviT. 

.Silrli  it  llii'  liiiy,  illiil  ill''  |irii.xilllllti'  riilill- 
Iry  niiil  ili.iii''  111   llii'  liiiv  I'l  S.in  Kriiiicl-'Cii. 

II  lA  lint  II  liiri'i'  jllilrMl;iti(ill  nl  tin'  t'li.'i^l.  Iiiit 
a  little  ^I'll  111  il^eir,  CiilllH'eteii  u  illl  till'  iiri'iill 
liy  11  iieti'ii-ilile  iriite,  M|ie|iill;;  iMit  lielwei'ii 
Ki'veiity  Hint  i'i;.'lily  iiiili'M  to  tin'  riylit  uinl 
Icll,  iiiiiiii  II  lirt'iiillli  III'  ten  III  lirtei'ii,  iiei'|) 
tMliili(.'ll  liirtlie  liil'tre^t  sliili.-*.  willi  Imlil  .■llore> 
fiiitiilili'  liir  tciu  lis  mill  Meltleiiieiils,  iiiiii  feilile 
ndiareiit  cniiiitry  liir  nilliviiliuii.  'Tlie  lieiiil 
of  tlie  liiiy  i-*  illiiiilt  liirly  miles  iVniii  the  sen, 
niu!  there  (•iiiniiieiices  its  (•iiiiiieclioii  uilli 
tin-  iinlile  Milleys  (i|  the  Sail  .loaiiniii  mul  S.i- 
crmiii'iiti), 

I'linsl  riiiiii/ry  nnrlh  if  llir  hiii/  nf  San 
Vriiw'tsro. —  Hetueeii  the  Siirriiiiii'iito  valley 
anil  tlio  coa-^t,  imrtli  ul  the  liay  "I  Sail  Fiati- 
cicco,  the  ciiiiiilry  is  lirukeii  iiiin  inoiiniaiii 
ridfjcs  and  nilliii!.'  hills,  with  maiiy  very  ler- 
tiln  valleys,  made  hy  lal<es  and  small  streams. 

III  the  ititeriiir  it    is   wooded,  ;,'eiierally  with 
oak,  and  immedinlely  aloii;,r  the  niast  [ireseiits 
open  [irairie   lands,  aiiioiii,'   heavily  timhered 
forests,  havini;  ii  <;realer  variety  o!  trees,  mid 
ocrdsionally  ii  larger  frrowth   than  the  tim- 
boreil  re;;iiin  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.     In  wime  \ 
parts  il  is  entirely  covered,  in  areas  of  many  . 
iiiilps,  with  a  close  irrowlli  of  wild  oats,  to 
the  e.\cliision  of  ahiiost  everv  other   |ilant.  ' 
In  the  latter  part  of  .jiuio  and  lie;.'iiiiiiiinr  of  ! 
July,  we  found   h(>re  a  cliinatc  sensihly  dif- 
ferent from  that  of  the  Sacramento  valley,  a 
few  miles  east,  heiii;;  much  cooler  and  moister. 
In  clear  weather,  the  morniii^fs  were   like 
those  of  the   Rocky  mountains   in   Aiii;iist, 

fleasnnt  and  cool,  ibilowinir  cold  clear  niijlit.-!. 
n  that  jiart  lyin^'  iiiarer  the  c<iast,  we  found 
the  morniiiffs  somelinie.s  cold,  iiccoiii|)aiiied 
with   chillinjf  winds ;    and    foj;s    frequently 
came  roliini;  up  over  theridtjes  frtMU  the  sea.  i 
These  souietimes  rose  at  evenini^,  and  coii- 
tiiined  until   noon  of  the  next  day.     They  ; 
are  not  dry,  imt  wet  mists,  leavin;r  the  face  ! 
of  the  country  covered  as  hy  a  driz/.lin;j  rain.  I 
TIiIh  sometimes  causes  rust  in  wheat  irrowii  i 
within  its  intliietice,  hut  veij;etal)les  (lnurisli  i 
and  attain  extraordinary  size.  [ 

I  learned  from  Captain  Smith,  a  resident 
at  liodciTd,  tliat  the  winter  months  m;ike  a 
dcliirlilful  season — rainy  days  (o-eiierally  of  ; 
warm  showers)  alternatinif  with  mild  and 
calm,  pleasant  weather,  and  pure  liriiflit 
skies — much  preferable  to  the  summer,  wiieii 
tlie  I'ofjs  and  stronif  noilhwest  winds,  which 
prevail  durinir  the  irreater  part  of  the  vear. 
make  tlii!  iiioriiiui.'  part  of  the  day  disann.'Ca- 
bly  cold. 


Owiiiir  priiliiilily  I  I  the  foi.'',  ("prin^f  is  pnr- 
lii-r  aliin;.'  the  co.i-t  Ih.iii  in  the  «\'fT'cT, 
wliere,iiiiriii(,'  the  interv.il  hei've'-p  '  •;  ;altw, 
till'  (.'round  liecoiiies  \er\  dry.  I  ''o\v<  r  i 
lilooili  ill  Deceiiilier.  mid  li\  ill"  iie.'iiitiin  r  uf 
l''eliriiary  (.Tiss  iicipiires  a  strniij.'  and  li.xu- 
riaiit  |.'rowtli,  iinil  fruit  tree-  (|u'i,cli,  pear, 
apple,  iVc.)  are  coM'red  with  iilii,--oiiis.  hi 
-itiiiitii)lis  immriliately  open  tn  the  sen  the 
fruit  rip"iis  late,  ireiierally  at  the  end  ol  Aii- 
j;ilst,  lieiiijr  retmded  li"  'he  chilling'  illlluelice 
of  the  iiiinhwest  winds  ;  a  short  di-taiice  in- 
land, w  here  iiilerveniti;.'  riiljre.,  nli-lriict  these 
winds  and  shelter  the  liee  of  the  country, 
there  is  a  dilleienl  i  Innate  and  a  reiiiarkiihle 
dillereni'i'  in  the  lime  of  ripeniiii.'  Iriiiis;  the 
heat  of  the  sun  has  t'lill  inlliience  on  the 
soil,  and  vey;etalinii  (.'oes  rapidly  lo  perfec- 
tion. 

The  ciiiiiilry  in  .Inly  heyjan  to  present  the 
dry  appearance  comiiion  lo  all  ('idifornia  ii.s 
the  Slimmer  advances,  e.Nci'pf  aloni;  thn 
northern  coast  within  the  inliiieiice  of  the 
foifs,  or  where  the  Liiid  is  sheltered  hy  for- 
ests, and  in  the  moist  valleys  of  streams  and 
cove.sof  the  hills.  In  smiie  of  these  was  an 
uncommonly  luxuriant  growth  of  oats,  still 
partially  j;reeii,  while  elsewhere  they  were 
ilried  up;  the  i'ace  of  the  country  |>reseniiiij; 
1,'eneriilly  a  mellow  and  ripened  iippear- 
aiice,  and  the  small  slrraiiis  liej^'imiinj.'  to 
lose  their  volume,  and  draw  up  into  the 
hills. 

'J'his  northern  jiarl  of  the  coast  country 
is  liea\ily  timhered,  more  so  a:^  it  f(oe^; 
north  to  the  OreHjnn  hoiiiidary,  (12°,)  with 
many  hold  stream.';  faliiiii,'  directly  into  tiie 
.sea. 

Tlif  coinilnj  lii'lirrf)!  thr  Imi/s  of  San 
Fr(iiicis''(i  and  Mni/rrri/, —  In  the  latter  part 
of  Jiiiiiiiiii/.  IHlti,  a  few  sliruhs  and  tlow- 
ers  were  alreadv  in  hloomon  ihesiindv  .shore 
of  iMonterey  hay  (lat.  ;ii;°  -l»'.)  Amoiii,' 
these  were  the  California  po))|iy.  and  m- 
mii])hihi  i:isiiinis. 

On  the  .5tli  Fehruary  I  found  many  sliruhs 
and  pl.'ints  in  hloom,  in  the  coa-t  mountains 
horderinif  St.  .losejih's  valley,  between  iMon- 
terey ami  the  bay  of  San  Francisco;  and 
veiretation  appeared  iiiucli  more  jjiven  and 
sprinjf-like,  and  further  advanced,  than  in  the 
jilains.  About  the  middle  of  Felmiary  I 
noticed  the  ^muiiiim  in  llower  in  the  \al- 
ley  ;  and  from  that  tiuu^  veiretation  U'lrnn 
jrenerally  to  bloom.  Cattle  were  obtained  in 
February,  from  randios  amonj;  tla^  neiijh- 
borini:,'  bill'^i  extremely  fat,  selected  from  the 
herds  ill  the  raiifje. 

Durinij  the  months  of  January  and  Fel)- 
ruary  rainy  days  alteriiitted  with  loiiirer  inter- 
vals of  fair  and  pleasant  weather,  which  is 
the  character  of  the  rainy  season  in  Califor- 
nia. The  mean  temperature  in  the  valley 
of  St.  Joseph — open  to  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 


ly  I  1  till'  Ciiir',  »<prinjf  ii  pnr- 
I'lKi"!  tli.'iii  III  till'  «\'e-r'cT, 
(•  intcrv.il  lii'i'vr"P  '  >;  :alnii, 
•iiiiiiM  MTV  ilry.  i''u\v<  ri 
licr.  mill  li\  ill"  iK'.'iiiiiiii  r  nf 
ici|iiiri-i  II  winiMj.'  mill  li.xM- 
iiil   Iriiil  tri'iv  (|«'i,(li,  |ioiir, 

■OMTImI  with  llln,--ii||H.  Ill 
liilti'ly  ii|MMl  Ik  till'  MCii  the 
iXillcTillK  III  the  ('Mil  1)1  All- 
ilrd  li"  '111'  cllilllliu'  illllllc'lICi' 

'  u  iiiil-  :  II  slidi't  ili-itiiic(>  In- 
•viMliri;.'  riil^iv,  iili-lnirf  ihi'sn 
ir  llii'  liiic  n(  llic  cciiiiifry, 
III  I'liiiiiitc  mill  :i  I'i'iiiiirkiilili' 
liiiif  111'  ri|)c'iiiiiif  Iniil-i ;  tlii< 
liii-<  t'lill  liilliii'iicr  nil  liio 
inn  (.'ocs   nipiilly   In  |i('rti'i'- 

II  .Inly  \)i'ffin  In  pri'M'iit  llio 

iMIIIIinii    to  III!  ( 'iiljfnrililt    IIM 

Iviiiu'i's,  I'M'i'iit  iilnii};  tho 
Aitliiii  tlic  iiillilriiro  nt'  flip 
in  Imiil  i-i  >liclti'ri'il  hy  tnr- 
iinist  viilli'ys  nf  Mtri'iim?"  mui 
i.  In  sniiii'  of  lliosi!  war*  (in 
iiirimit  (iPiwlli  nf  oats,  still 
uliili'  I'Ui'wliiTi'  llicy  wnrt' 
■I'  nt'tlii'  I'niiiilry  |in'st'liliii^r 

llnw  mill  n|)i'iioil  ii|i|ii'iir- 
iiimII  slriMiiis  li('j:;iiiiiiii;.'  to 
III',  mill   ilriiw   ii|i   into   liio 

I  jiart  III'  tlio  poiirtl  country 
•rcil,  mnri)  so  tin  it  j^no^i 
I'lrnn  l)c  III  Hilary.  (1-°,)  with 
ins  I'aliiiiif  ilirirlly  into  tiie 

lii'lirrcii  !lir  hiii/s  (if  San 
IdiiliTi'i/, —  In  the  liittor  (iiirt 
(i,  a  ti'w  sliriilis  anil  tlmv- 
ill  hiniiiii  on  llu'  saliilv  sliorp 
ly  (lat.  .'ill'  -Id'.)  AiMont,' 
Culil'nniia  |Mi))|iy.  ami    nn- 

liriiary  I  found  many  s!lrllll^! 
Mil.  in  llii'  cna-t  iiumnlains 
■I'pli's  valli'y,  bctwei'ii  iMnn- 
iiy  (if  San  Francisco;  and 
rwl  niiicli  iiiorp  jjivcn  and 
iirthnr  iidvaiici'd.  Iliau  in  the 
tlio  iniildlc  of  I'Vliniary  I 
'uiiim  in  llowcr  in  (lie  \al- 
tliat  tiiiu^  vcffctation  U'lrnn 
n.  Callli'  were  nbtaineil  in 
ranclins  aiiioiijr  tliii  iiciijli- 
f'lnoly  lUl,  selected  froiii  the 

[C. 

oiitlis  nf  January  and  Fel)- 
[iltern:tted  with  Iniifjcr  inter- 
pleasant  weather,  which  is 
the  rainy  season  in  Califor- 
temperatiiro  in  the  valley 
xMi  to  the  bay  of  Han  Fran- 


Pi'oN  riri;i{  cm, mouma. 


v.> 


cl^rf»— tVnin  the  l:!tli  fn  the  JJd  nf  I'l  lirii  iry. 
wild  ftil"  III  -iiiiri~e,  and  til ''at  -iin-'ef.  'I'lie 
oakiJ  III  ll.i-  valley,  especially  iilniitf  llie  limt 
if  th.i  III'.'-,  are  pirtiv  cnvered  wiili  Inii^j 
1  iiTijMii  •  luiwM — an  inilicalinii  nf  iiitn  h  'ni- 
'"iili'y  III  llie  climate. 

VVi<  remained  sevnal  dayn,  in  the  laii.'r 
part  nf  |''eliriliry.  in  the  Upper  portion  "I  the 
Ci'a>-*     liliillll'iiill     belwren      St.    .JiHeph     mid 

Santa  ( 'rii/:.     The  phice  of  niir  eiicMiiipiiieiii 
HilK 'J.IMI'I  leef  alinvethe    sea.  and    Wis  co\- 
"reil    Willi  a   liiMirimil   1,'rnulli  of  (rrass,  a 
""nnl   liii.'h   ill  many  places.     At  -"iinri-je  the 
t' inper.itiire  wa-i  in';  at  iHMin  tin";  iit  I  in 
the  iil'teniiinii  (i;)";  and  (ill"  at  siiii-et ;  with 
\ery  pI'M-'anl  unalher.     The  inoiinlaiiis  were 
wooded  Willi  many  varii'ties  of  frees,  and  in 
HOiiie  parts  wlih   heavy  foresfs.     These   for- 
Pl^t.^   are   cli,iraeteri/.ed   bv   a   cypress  (lii.rn- 
Jiurti)  III'  I'xliaotdinary  ilimensinns,  alreadv 
irenlinned    aiiinii.r  the  trees  of   the   Sierra 
Nevada,  which   is  ili>iiiiiriiished  aiiinni^  the 
fores!  trees  of  .America  by  its   superior  size 
fin-l  lii'iirlit.     Amiiii!,'  many  which  we  iii(>a- 
nured  in  this  pai-i  nf  ihe  ninniilain,  nine  and 
ten  feet  diameter  was  freipieril — eleven  sniiie- 
IJmes ;  but   ;.'nin'^'  beynnd   eleven   niily   in   n 
si:i;de  tree,  which  reachiil   rmirteen  i'eet  in 
iliui  leter.     .\luive  two  hundred   feet   was  ii 
tr>-(|iient  lieiirlif.     In  this  locality  the  bark 
',vi';.i  very  deeply    furrowed,  and    iiniisiiallv 
thick,  beiiiif  fully  si.xtei'ii  inches   in  some  of 
the  trees.     The  tree  was  now  in  lilnnni,  llmv- 
crw.ir  near  the  simimil,  and   the  tlnwers  con-  : 
SOi'iiently  dill'iciilt   to  procure.      This   is  the  | 
vtaple  timber  tree  of  tin-  cniintry.  beiiifr  cut  I 
into  both    bnanls  iinil   'hiiiLrles.  and    is    the 
principal  timber  sawed  at  the  mills,     It   is  j 
foft,  and  easily   worked,  weaiiiijif  away  too  j 
"luickly  to  he  Used   fur  tloors.     It  seems  to  j 
i.ive  all  the  durability  which  anciently  yave  ■ 
(he  cy|)res.j  so  much  celebrity.      I'o'-ts  which  ' 
have  bei'ii  expo.'ed   to  the  weather  fnr  three  ' 
quarters  nf  a  century  (since  the  fmindatifin 
of  the  missions)  r-lmw  no  marks  of  di'cav  in  ^ 
t;ie  wood,  and  are  now  cnnvrted  into  iM'aiiis  | 
'I'ld   posts  for  private  biiildiiiLls.     In  Califor- 
.lia  tills  tree  is  called  the  iialu  ndnrmht.     It 
.f!  the  kiiiji'  nf  trees. 

Amon;X  'be  oaks  is  a  handsome  Inflvever- 
jjreeii  species,  spccilically  dilVerent  from  those 
of  the  lower  L'rounds.  and  in  its  i;eneral  ap- 
pearance niiicli  reseiiililin;j  hickory.  The 
bark  is  smooth,  nf  a  white  colnr,  and  the 
vond  hard  and  c!ose-;frained.  It  seems  In 
.irefer  the  iiortii  bill  sides,  where  some  were 
nearly  four  I'eot  in  diameter  and  a  Inindred 
feet  hiL'b. 

Another  remarkable  tree  of  these  woods 
is  called  in  tin-  lan!.'ua;je  of  the  country  iiia- 
lirotiii.  It  is  a  braiitifiil  every;reen,  with 
nrije,  thick,  and  L'lnssv  dinitatii  leaves,  the 
trunk  and  liraucb"s  reddish  cnlnred.  and  bav- 
ilijj  a  siiiontli  and  siiiLiularlv  naked  apiiear- 


mice,  ns  if  the  barl  liad  bei'il  stripped  iifT. 
Ill  its  {rri'cii  ^fate  the  wimhI  is  hriltie,  very 
heavy,  bard,  and  cl.i«e-',rraiiied  ;  it  i«  said  t« 
iissunie  II  red  rnlor  when  dry.  someiiini-s  vii- 
rieirateil,  and  sii«cepljh|e  ot  a  liiL'll  polish. 
This  tree  was  loiind  hy  us  only  in  the  nioiin- 
laiiH.  Sniiii"  nieasiireij  nearly  lour  feet  ill 
diami'ter.  and  were  almiit  sixty  feel  hi'_'li. 

.■\  few  ,-calfrrid  lloucrs  were  imw  show- 
in;,'  tliroiiirhniil  till'  tnri'-l-,  and  mi  the  n[M'n 
rld(.ri'.-:  sliriib-i  were  llmveriii';  ;  bin  U.e  bloom 
was  not  yi'f  !,"'"''f''l. 

On  the  'J.'itb  l''ebriiarv.  we  dc  i  "iileil  to 
the  <'oa>t  near  the  iiorlhwe.-lern  point  of 
Monterey  bay.  lo  in;,' our  tinewci  tlir,  which 
in  the  I'M'nin;,'  cbaniM'd  inln  a  culd  south, 
eiisleriv  sinrm.  coiitinuiiii.'  with  heavy  niid 
cnnslmit  rains  Inr  several  il.iys. 

Diirini;  this  lime  the  mean  leniperafiire 
was  .Vl"  111  sunrise.  511^.,')  at  lUi..  ».in.,rn^.li 
at  iinnn.  t)\''Jt  at  \lh.  in  the  afternoon.  M^.4 
at  t,  and  .W. 7  at  sunset.  On  the  liSth,  a 
thick  loyfwas  over  III"  bay  niul  on  the  nioim- 
tains  at  sunrise,  and  the  llien.ionieler  was  at 
UH" — 1,')'-'  below  the  ordinary  temperature— 
risinjf  at  !)  o'clock  In  .V.t".  These  loirs  pre- 
vail alniii,' the  cnast  iliiriii;.;  a  jTreat  part  of 
the  siimnu'r  mid  a'ltunin,  but  do  nnt  crnsa  tho 
ridjies  into  the  interior.  This  locality  is  celo- 
hrated  for  the  excellence  and  f,'reat  si/o  of 
its  veiretahles.  (especiallly  the  Irish  potato 
and  onions.)  with  wiiicli,  for  this  reason  it 
lias  for  many  years  supplied  the  shijipinir 
which  vir-its  Monterey.  .\  forest  nf  /w/o 
roldrddi)  lit  the  foot  o|'  the  inniiiitaiiis  in  this 
vicinity,  is  noted  for  theirreat  size  and  hei;,'lit 
of  the  trees.  I  nmasiired  one  which  was 
l!7.5  feet  in  lieijihl  and  fifteen  feet  in  diame- 
ter, three  feel  above  the  base.  Tliouirh  this 
was  distiiiuui^hed  by  the  ureatest  i.'irlli. other 
sinToinidini;'  trei's  were  but  little  inferior  in 
si/e  and  still  taller,  Their  colossal  lieii;lit 
and  massive  bulk  i^ive  an  air  of  i.'randenr  to 
the  fore-^t. 

These  trees  irrow'  tallest  in  the  bntlom 
lands,  and  prefer  moist  soils  and  north  hill- 
sides. In  situations  where  they  are  pre- 
lected from  till'  prevailiii',;-  nnrthwest  w'inds, 
they  shoot  up  to  a  ;;reat  height ;  but  wliercvor 
their  heads  are  exposed,  these  w  iiids  appear 
to  chill  Ihein  and  stop  their  prowtli.  '1  hey 
'hen  as-iume  a  spreailinijf  shape,  with  larjjer 
branches,  and  an  apparently  brnki'ii  siiminit. 

The  rain  storm  clo^ed  with  February,  and 
the  weather  becnmini|  line,  on  the  Isl  of 
March  we  resumed  our  prni;re<s  alonir  tho 
coast.  Over  the  face  of  the  country  between 
Santa  ('riiz  and  .Mniilerey,  and  around  the 
plains  ot'  St.  .Inhn.tbe  jjrass,  whiili  had  been 
eaten  down  by  the  larij[e  herds  of  cattle,  was 
now  e\erv  where  spiiiii;inij  up ;  flowers 
Detran  o  show  their  bloom,  mid  in  the  valleys 
nf  the  mnuiitaiiis  borderinu-  the  Silinas  plains, 
(a  jilaili  of  some  lifty  miles  in   leiii'lli.  inudc 


2C 


CKOCJRAnilCAL  .■MI'.MniR 


by  ;' 0  S..!inas  river.)  wild  (lals  were  tliroc 
feet  lii;!li,  i.ml  \\i'li  lio:ulc(l,  l)v  tin"  (Jlli  of 
M.nvh. 

Diirin;:r  lliro'  ilay-.  th;\t  wo  rcinniiicd  on 
out'  ol'  lliesi'  ludiinl.'iins,  ;it  ;iii  plcviilinri  of 
a.'JOO  li'cl  aliiivi'tiii'  -I'M.  :iii(i  ill  riiirhl  (^'  iMuii- 
toroy.  ll;"  ini^iii  fcinjx'ratur"  wiis  1 1°  .it  :-mi- 
risp,  ij.j°  at  (t  ill  llip  iiwiniiiijr.  i]0°  at  noon. 
62°  at  -2  in  the  al'li'rnonn.  .07°  at  -1.  ami  M^ 
at  Hnn.-ct.  At  llic  >;\\w  hours  tin'  ()"\v  point 
was  ■IJ'-'.O.  •ls",l.,'jJ^.S.  .')l".l)..5J°..',.')l".(J, 
niul  Ilic  (|iianlily  ol'  nioi^-taro  in  a  cnliic  I'ool 
ot  !•!■,  ;i2S:i  yr>..  ;i.[)X-2  irrs.,  .1.72(J  <rrs., 
4.972  n-rs.,  -l.dSJ  urs..  ami  4. .'3.58  frr.~..  ro- 
spocTivi'ly.  'I'iip  woatlior  rpniiiinfd  lirijilit 
and  pleasant ;  ioijs  .'^oiuotinics  covorinfj  tlio 
moniilains  at  snnri.-c,  lint  fjoip;;  (,(]'  in  ii  low 
lionrs.  Tiiesp  an;  oppii  inonntains.  nntiin- 
berod,  but  t'prtile  in  oats  and  otlicr  grassps. 
aflbrdin;;  iinp  ran^'T'  lor  cattle.  Oalis  and 
pines  are  scaltpred  tliinly  over  tlirir  upper 
parts,  and  in  tlie  liiji'lnT  and  inoro  pxposed 
situations  tlin  pvpr;.'repn  oaks  show  the 
conrsp  and  intlupi"'p  of  the  northwpst  winds, 
Rtuntpd  and  hli(.'hiP!i  hy  their  chilliip.";:,  iient 
to  the  firoiii.d  liy  their  t'orce,  nnd  jrrowinj^  in 
that  form. 

l)esremlu;:x  into  tlie  valley  of  the  San 
Joaqnin,  (.March  11th.)  we  found  almost  a 
Buniiner  temr.rrature.  and  the  country  clothed 
in  tl;e  floral  l)tunty  of  advanced  sprinir. 

Sdiillfni  riiiniin/  ami  r/iiiii/  scdson.  (Irili- 
<»(/t'.f  32^—3.';°. —Wi'Uth  of  Pnin/  Coiictplion 
the  climate  and  jreneral  appearance  of  the 
country  e.\liiliit  a  marked  chaiiLre.  The 
coast  i'roni  that  rape  trends  almost  directly 
cast,  the  face  of  the  conniry  has  ii  more 
southern  exposure,  and  is  sh"ltered  by  ranires 
of  low  mountains  from  tiie  violence  and  chill- 
inrr  ert'ectof  the  northwest  winds  ;  hence  the 
climate  is  still  more  mild  and  jrenial.  foster- 
inrj  a  richer  variety  if  produclions,  diniTiiiir 
in  kind  from  those  of  ihe  northorn  coast. 

The  face  of  the  country  alon;^  tiie  coast 
is  (Tenerally  naked,  th''  lower  hills  and  plains 
devoid  of  tree-,  (hoiiiL''  'he  s'umiier  heats 
parched  and  bare,  n'ld  water  sparsely  disiri- 
buted.  The  hi;:!ii'r  ri'!'.re>  ami  the  country 
in  tl.eir  iinmediaie  vicin:!y  are  always  more  or 
less,  and  sometimes  prcitily.  wooded.  These 
usually  aniinl  water  and  yood  (_'reen  irrass 
throuohoiif  the  year.  Wiicn  the  pJain-liave 
become  drv.  parclieil  and  bar"  of  sjrass,  thi^ 
'  'i;('s.  where,  wilh 
lliev  find  water 


ininalion)  still  ren.a.in  hii.'ic — some  peak-i 
al\v";ivs  retainintr  snow — and  alliird  -..pious 
stre.ims,  which  run  nil  the  year.  M.inv  of 
these  streams  are  ah-orl cd  ie  lli"  li^rht  ~-\i 
of  the  larei'r  plain.s  ln'lo'e  •'  .'•;  roach  t.'i.' 
sea.  l'n...r!y  dirccLed,  '  -  .laler  of 'lie-.-c 
river-  is  sii-iici<'nt  to  spte-...  tuhivation  ov.v- 
tlie  plains.  Throuiiliout  iiie  country  every 
farm  or  rcurlui  has  its  own  .-priiifis  or  run- 
iiinjr  ."treaiii  sullicieiit  Ibr  the  support  of 
stock,  which  liitlierio  h.i-.  made  the  chief  ob- 
ject of  industry  in  Ciililornia. 

The  soil  is  ijenerally  j,'ood,  of  a  sandy  or 
li;,dit  character,  easily  ciilti\;iled,  and  in  many 
places  of  e.vtraorilinary  fertility.  <'iiltivatiou 
has  always  been  by  iirij^alion,  and  the  soil 
seems  to  rerpiire  only  water  to  jiroduce 
vijroronsly.  Aiiionji  the  arid  brnsli-covered 
hills  .coiitii  of  San  Diejro  we  found  little  val- 
l(\vs  converted  by  a  single  spriiiij;  into  crowded 
ffardens,  where  pears.  |)each"s.(piinccs,  pome- 
ifranates,  irrapps,  olives,  and  other  fruits 
ijjrew  In.xnriantly  tnirriher,  the  little  stream 


actiiij^    upon    them   like 


ineiplG  of  life, 


The  soutliern  frontier  of  this  |>ortioii  of  Cali 
fornia  seems  eminently  adtipted  to  the  culti- 
vation of  the  vino  ;iiid  the  olive.  A  single 
vine  has  been  known  to  yield  a  barrel  of 
wine ;  and  the  olive  frees  are  burdened  witli 
the  weiirht  of  I'riiit. 

Duriiij;  the  ii'.onth  of  Atif^uxt  the  days  are 
brii^dit  and  hot.  the  sky  pure  and  entirely 
eloudle<s,  and  the  nijrhts  cool  and  boauli- 
fnlly  serene.  In  this  month  fruits  penerallv 
ripen — melons,  jiears.  poaches,  prickly  fir. 
(ciictits  tii'ii.it.)  &c.. — and  larjro  bunches  of 
ri|)c  (Trapes  are  scattered  numerously  throufr!] 
the  vineyards,  but  do  not  icacli  maturity 
until  the  following  month.  After  the  vin- 
taijri'.  frrapcs  are  hun'.r  up  in  the  houses  and 
so  kept  for  use  tlirou;;-hoiit  the  wieter. 

Th.e  mornings  in  September  are  cool  and 
generally  didiyiitful — ue   sometimes   found 


llipiii  almost  cold 


enou'ii 


I  to  freeze — the  mid- 


r.i 


cattle  {i-o  up  into  tlnve 
cooler  wikithrr  and  shade 
and  good  p;i-turi>.  In  the  dryest  part  of  thi' 
year  wo  louml  sheep  and  cattle  fat.  and 
.saw  flowers  bloomiiiir  in  all  the  months  of 
the  year.  .Monr  the  foc/t  of  the  main 
rid;;-'-s  tl;.^  -^"il  i-  rich  and  coinpantively 
moi--t.  woo  ti'il.  with  iir.iss  and  water  abiin- 


dan!  ;  ;.ii! 

Mianv 

tit'.il  and 

podn. 

the  .S.'rr 

I  .^  . 

■  icaliii 


'iti 


:  \\i 


a'liud  beau- 
'i\o  I'a'ans.  Th.'  ranire<  of 
./i     here  appr.-iarhiu!;-  it.-lrT- 


day  hours  hri/rht  and  hot.  hut  a  breeze  usuall'. 
made  the  shiide  pleu^^anl  ;  ilio  cveninrfs  calm, 
and  nijjihts  cool  and  cleer  v.d'.en  unobscured 
by  fofjs.  We  reached  th  •  southern  countrv 
at  the  end  of  .fnly  :  and  the  first  clouds  we 
saw  a])peared  on  tlii'  tith  .S''/.''7;i/«  r  at  siinse*, 
ijradually  spreading.'  over  tin;  sky,  and  the 
leorninj;'  was  (doudv.  but  clear  aijain  before 
noon.  J.iirhtniii;:  at  this  time  was  visible  in 
the  diroction  of  Sonor;;.  wdiere  the  rainv 
season  had  already  comiueneiul.  and  the 
cloudy  weather  was  p"ihaps  indicative  of 
its  a.pproirli  here.  On  some  nijvhts  the 
dews  were  reiivirked  to  be  heavy  :  and  as  we 
were  journryinir  aion.'r  the  coast  between 
San  Diecro  and  S.inta  IJarbara,  foji's  occa- 
sionally oliscureii  the  sun-et  over  the  ocean, 
and  rose  ne.xt  inorninfr  wilh  the  sun.  On  U'.' 
wooded  |)lain,  at  tlhj  foot  of  the  San  (Jahrie! 
luouiv.ain,  in  the  nei^ihhorhood  of  Santa  Bar 


miry 
by  coil 
The 
frame 
were 
killed 

liOW 

Mififue 

losinjr 

si'.owi 

been 

had 

bare 

Alxiut 

ters  a 

woodt 

and  al 

ti;red 

and 


rpn;;iiii    hicii — poiiip    poal;-, 
Hi;  siinu — iiiiil   iillnril  ",i|iii)ns 
1  run  all  lln'  yc;ir.     M.my  of 
;ir('  iih-nr!  i'<l  )•:  ih"  liylit  ••••;i 
plains   li  •liri'   ■'   •■.•   iv^acli  Vv 
itiri'Clcil.   '    •    .,a!rr  of  t!;i?-i 
■['■nt  t"  sjiii",     ;  iihivatiun  OV.T 
Tl.rdii^licni'  iiip  c'linnlry  oven- 
Ills  its  (iwti  -prini;:-  or  run- 
■■uilicicnt    I'or  till'   t:ii|)|)ort  of 
iithorto  lia-;  nimlo  the  chief  ob- 
y  ill  Cnliliiriiia. 
ijiMicnilly  ^'iKiil,  of  a  Siimlyor 
.  la-iiy  ('i|lti\iil('(l,  iiiid  ill  iniiiiy 
nlin.-iry  f(>rtility.     ('iiltiv;itii)ii 
•11  liy  iiTi;;ati()ii,  and  tlm  i^oil 
111-;!    (inly    water  to    produce 
AiMoiirr  iho  arid  liriisli-covore'! 
Sail  J)le(ro  wi^  foiiiid  little  val- 
1  liy  a  single  ? prin;;  into  crowded 
re  pears.  |"^:ichi's.i|iiinc,es,pomo- 
ipes,   olives,   and    oilier   frnii.s 
iitly  tnjri'tlier,  the  little  stream 
them  li!ci>  ii   principle  of  lif,->. 
1  frontier  of  this  portion  of  Cali- 
cniiiieiitly  adapted  to  the  culti- 
viiip  and  t!ie  olive.     A  single 
n  hnowii   to  yield  a  barrel  of 
le  olive  trees  are  burdened  with 
fruit. 

ir.oiitli  of  AiifTiist  the  days  are 
lot.  the  .sjiy  pure  and  entirely 
id  the  nifrhts  cool  and  beanfi- 
In  this  luoiilh  fruits  frenerullv 
tis,  pears,  pi 'aches,  prickly  fir. 
1.)  &:v.. — and  larire  hunches  of 
ire  scattered  niinieronsly  throni^!i 
[Is,  I.Mit  do  not  /each  maturity 
lo'.viiiLT  month.  After  the  vin- 
are  him'.,r  up  in  the  houses  and 
ise  tliroM';'Iioiit  the  wii'ter. 
iii2:s  in  ^'eplvmher  are  cool  and 
'lii;iitfnl — we  .sometimes  found 
cold  enou;^li  to  freeze — the  niid- 
iirhliiiiil  hut.  hut  a  breeze  usuall". 
ide  pleasant  ;  (lie  eveiiinixs  calm, 
ool  and  c!e;'r  wh.en  nnobsciired 
'e  reached  th  ■  southern  countrv 
'  .riil\-  ;  and  the  first  clouds  wv 
Ion  thetJth  S  j^'  ,jil,i  r ixt  sunse*, 
;reudiiiir  "ver  the  ^■ky,  and  the 
;  cloudy,  bill  clear  attain  before 
tiling'  lit  this  time  was  visible  in 
1  of  Siiiiori'..  where  the  rainv 
already  {'iPiiiiiK'nced.  and  the 
her  was  perhaps  indicative  of 
1  liere.  On  some  ni;;-lits  the 
Mivirked  to  be  heavy  ;  and  as  we 
viiiiT  iiloiirr  the  coast  between 
and  Santa  IJarbara,  fon-s  occa- 
ured  tlii^  siiii-et  over  the  ocean, 
t  moniiiiir  with  the  sun.  On  th' 
I,  at  the  I'niit  of  the  San  (iahrie! 
the  ne;;)lil)orhood  of  Santa  Uar 


UPON  ri'I'HIl  CALIFORNIA, 


27 


bar.i,  and  freipietitly  aloiiif  the  wav.  the 
trees  were  found  to  be  partly  covered  with 
moss. 

('iiiiiilrr/  lirtiri''!i  thr  Sniihi  Hurl'/irii  riiniin- 
tiiln  and  Mi)r.!n-nj,  (Ui!.  ;M"  lio'  /,/  IJti"  ;{()'.) — 
About  the  middle  of  S'  i^l'  iiihirwi'  ('iicampcd 
Tiear  the  summit  of  tin-  Ciiisld  ilc  Smtln  Iiirs. 
(Santa  liiirbara  mountain.)  on  a  little  creek 
v.'ith  cold  witer,  i.'ood  Iresh  ijrass,  and  much 
limlier  ;  and  tliencel'orward  north  alonjj  the 
mountain  lieliind  the  ,SV/;//(/  l)i,s  mission,  the 
C('Untry  assumed  a  bi'tter  appearance,  o-cner- 
ully  well  wooded  and  tcilerablv  well  covered 
with  {jrass  of  ;rood  (|uality — vry  dillerent 
from  the  dry,  naked  and  jiarrhed  appearance 
of  the  country  below  Santa  narliara.  The 
noij;lihorinij  mountain  exhibited  lar^rc  tiiiilH^r, 
redwood  or  pine,  probably  the  latter.  Water 
was  froipient  in  small  runmn^r  streams. 
Crossing  the  fertile  valley  of  Sun  Liiia 
Ohispi),  (h\t.  .■5.5".)  a  sheltered  valley  noted 
for  the  superiority  of  its  olives,  we  entered 
the  Siinid  Ijucjit  ranL;e,  which  lies  Iwtween 
[he  coast  and  the  Sdlinas,  or  Itnoifirriiliira 
river  (of  the  bay  of  .Monterey.)  We  found 
this  a  beautiful  mountain,  covered  thickly 
•with  \vil({  oats,  pret.ily  wooded,  and  having 
on  the  .«ido  wo  ascended  (which  is  the  water- 
slioi)  in  every  little  hollow  a  running  stream 
of  cool  water,  which  the  weather  made  de- 
lig'itf"!.  The  days  were  hot,  at  evening 
cool,  and  the  morning  weather  clear  and  e.x- 
liilarnting.  Descending  into  the  valley,  wo 
found  it  open  and  handsome,  making  a  pleas- 
ing country  well  wooded,  and  every  where 
covered  with  grass  of  a  good  qualify.  The 
coast  range  is  wooded  on  both  sido.s  and  to 
tlie  summit  with  varieties  of  oaks  and  jiinos. 
T!io  upper  part  of  the  Salinas  valley,  where 
wo  aro  now  travelling,  would  alhird  excel- 
lent stock  farms,  and  is  particularly  well 
suited  to  sheep.  The  country  never  becomes 
miry  in  the  rainy  season,  and  none  are  lost 
by  cold  in  the  mild  winter. 

Tlie  good  range,  grass  and  acorns,  made 
game  abiiudaiit,  and  deer  and  grisly  lioar 
wore  numerous.  Twelve  of  the  latter  were 
killed  by  the  party  in  one  thicket. 

Lower  down,  in  the  neighborhood  of  San 
Miguel,  the  country  changed  its  appearance, 
losing  its  timbered  and  grassy  character,  and 
sjiowing  much  sand.  The  past  year  had 
;i:-<'n  one  of  unusual  drought,  and  the  river 
had  almost  entirely  disappe.'irod,  leaving  a 
hare  sandy  bed  with  a  few  pools  of  water. 
Alxiut  liftet'u  miles  below  S.-in  .Miguel  it  en- 
ters a  gorge  of  the  hills,  making  broad  thickly 
wooded  bottoms,  and  atjording  a  good  range 
and  abundance  of  water,  the  bed  being  shel- 
ti;red  by  the  thick  timber.  'I'lie  lower  hills 
and  spurs  Inaii  'he  ranges,  bord'Tiiig  the 
river,  are  M-ry  dry  ami  bar<',  airordinn^  little 
or  no  grass,  .-\pp^l^lcllillg  the  missimi  nf 
ISukdad    th:'    river    vallev    Widens,    makiiur 


fertile    bottoms   and    p'.".iiis  of   arable    land, 

,  some  lifteeii  to  twentv  miles  broad,  e.vtending 

I  to  .Monterev  bav.  and  bordered  b\  ranges  of 

mountain   from   two  to  three   tlmusiiiid  feet 

lii^li.     These  ranges  have  the  cliararler  of 

fertile   miumiains.  their  bills   beiiii;  ciivereil 

with  grass  anil  scatti'red  trees,  and  their  v:;!- 

levs  producing  lieldsof  wild  oats,  and  wooded 

I  with    oak    groves.       Heing    nnshelliTed    by 

'  wiiods,  water  is  not  abundant  in  the  drv  sea- 

sdii.  Imt  at   the  (Mid  of  September  we  found 

'  springs  among  the  hills,  and  water  remained 

j  in  the  creek  U'ds. 

j  On  till!  eviMiing  of  the  L'oth  Septembor, 
nniiiili  made  their  a])poarance  in  the  sky,  ana 
the  iie.xt  morning  was  cloudy  with  a  warm 
southerly  wind  and  a  few  drops  of  run — 
tlio  lirst  of  the  rainy  season.  'J'lie  weather 
then  continued  uninterruptedly  dry  through 
all  Octolx^r — fair  and  bright  <lnring  tlio  first 
|)art.  but  cloudy  (hiring  the  latter  half.  At 
tho  end  of  the  month  the  rainy  season  set  in 
fully,  consisting  generally  of  rain  sipialls 
with  bright  weather  intervening,  and  occa- 
sional southeasterly  storms  continuing  seve- 
ral days.  The  previous  seasons  had  boon 
very  short  and  light  for  several  years,  and  tlie 
country  had  snirered  from  tho  C(mso(|iipnt 
drought.  Tho  prosont  season  commenced 
early,  and  was  very  fi.vorable.  Much  ;ain 
fell  in  the  low  country,  imd  snow  ticcnmn- 
lated  to  a  great  depth  in  the  high  mountains. 
Tho  tirst  rains  changed  tho  face  of  the 
country,  (irass  immediaftdy  began  to  shoot 
up  rapidly,  and  by  the  end  of  the  first  week 
of  Niiiejidirrlho  dead  hue  of  tho  hills  around 
Monterey  had  already  given  place  to  green. 

A  brief  sketch  of  tho  weather  during  a 
journey  in  this  year  from  the  mission  of  Sun 
Jiinn  'Bajilisl'i  (latitude  .17°)  to  los  Anades 
will  exhibit  tho  ordinary  character  of  the 
season. 

Ill  the  valley  of  San  .Tuan,  during  the  Lat- 
ter half  of  SmPinlwr,  there  was  no  rain  ;  tho 
weather,  generally,  jileasant  and  bright,  with 
occasional  clouds.  The  night  clear  and 
cool,  occasionally  cold ;  tho  moinings  clear 
and  sliar|),  with  hoar  frost  sometimes  cover- 
ing tho  ground.  Tho  days  were  warm  and 
ploa.sant,  and  the  evenings  mild  and  calm. 
On  some  mornings  a  thick  fog  settled  down 
immediately  alter  snnriso,  but  in  a  few  hours 
cleared  oil' into  a  pleasant  day. 

The  falling  weather  recommenced  on  the 
30th.  with  a  stormy  day  of  spring ;  blue  sky 
in  spots,  rapidlv  succeeded  by  massifs  of  dark 
clouds  and  pouring  rain,  which  fell  heavily 
during  greater  part  of  the  night. 

The  morniug  of  tin;  1st  Dfriniiiir  was 
partially  clear,  but  rain  recommenced  in  a 
few  hours,  with  skv  entirely  clouded.  The 
weather  brighteiieif  at  noon,  and  from  a 
liiL^h  point  ol'tlie  hills  bordering  the  St,  .Iiian 
ri\cr   valley,  up  which   we   were  travelling, 


23 


GEOGRAPHICAL  MEMOIR 


snow  was  visible  on  MiniiiHts  of  ilii-  ili\iiliiiij  ' 
faii;.ri'  Ix'twi'i'ii  tli(^  Siiii  .liimiuiii  wilicv  ai.il 
ttio  coa.-it.  It  raiiioil  Iwavily  anil  iiiccsruiitly 
(liirini;;  llic  niijlit.  and  ccnitiiiiit'il  all  tlic  uc\i 
day.  Jii  tlu^  niiili'  tlio  .^ky  clcMreil  olV  hrii^lil, 
wilii  a  nortii  wind,  Imt  cloiidi.'d  np  lit  nmrn- 
inj;,  with  rain  and  a  liniUtMi  .--'iy.  'J'liero 
wure  siiowtTs  ol'  rain  during  the  diy,  with 
intervals  ot'  lirifrht  and  Ik  it  hun  ;  and  tin;  sky 
at  snnsft  was  withont  a  cloud. 

Durintj  tlio  day  and  iiiirht  of  the  -Itli,  tliiTi! 
were  occasional  shiwers.  Tlio  sky  was 
tolerably  clear  on  the  morning  of  the  fltli, 
with  a  prospect  of  fair  weather.  The  tents 
were  frozen,  and  snow  appeared  on  the  near 
ridge.s.  Wo  were  then  in  a  small  interior 
valley  of  tlio  monntains,  bordering  the  Sali- 
nas ri\er,  and.  about  1,000  feet  above  the 
sea.  i 

Decrmhcr  the  (ith  was  a  beautiful  day,  fol- 
lowed by  a  cold  frosty  night.  ; 
The  ne.vt  day  we  descended  to  the  valley  | 
of  the  Si.linus  river,  the  weather  continuing 
clear  and  pleasant  during  the  day.     Snow 
appeared  on  the  mountains  on  b(jth  sides  of  1 
the  vuUey,  and  a  cloud  from  some  of  tliein  ! 
gave  ii  .flight  shower  during  the  night.     Se- 
veral piiccessive  days  were  clear,  with  hot 
sun  ;  the  nights  cold,  starry,  and  frosty.    The 
new  grass  on  the  liills  was  coming  out  vigo-  | 
rously.     The  morning  of  the  10th  was  keen 
and  clear,  with  scattered  clouds,  and  a  south- 
erly wind,  which  brought  u|)  .showers  of  rain 
at  "night,  followed  by  fog  in  the  morning.        | 
On  the  1 2th,  at  the  mission  of  Santa  Mar- 
garita, in  the  head  of  the  Salinas  valley,  rain 
began  in  the  afternoon,  with  a  cold  wind,  and 
soon  increased  to  a  southeasterly  storm,  with 
lieavy  rain  during  all  the  night.     The  13th 
was  cloudy,  with  occasional  showers.     Dur- ; 
ing  the  night  the  weather  became  very  bad,  ; 
and  by  morning  had  increased  to  a  violent  ; 
and  cold  southeasterly  rain  storm.     In  the 
afternoon  the  storm  subsided,  and  was  fol-  i 
lowed  by  several  days  of  variable  weather,      j 
By  tlio  19th,  the  country  where  we  were  j 
travelling  between  San  Luis  Obispo  and  the  ! 
Cuesta  of  SaiUa  Ines,  showed  a  handsome  ': 
covering  of  gras.s,  which  required  two  weeks  ■ 
more   to  Iwcome  excellent.      There    were 
several  days  of  warm  weather,  with  occa- 
sional showers  and  hot  sun,  and  cattle  began 
to  seek  the  shade. 

The  '23d  was  a  day  of  hard  rain,  followed 
by  tine  weather  on  the  24th,  and  a  cold 
southeasterly  rain  storm  on  the  25th. 

During  the  remainder  of  the  year,  the 
W(>ather  continued  fair  and  cool. 

No  ridn  fell  during  the  first  half  of  ./i/n;)- 
aril,  which  we  passed  between  Santa  Bar- 
bara and  Los  Angeles  :  the  days  were  bright 
niJ  very  pleas.int,  with  warm  sun  ;  and  the 
iiiiliits,  generally,  cold.  In  the  ne;>l''<'ted 
oixhurds  of  the  San  Buenaventura  and  Fer- 


nando nii--sior.s,  the  olive  trees  r.'tn-.'ilneJ 
loaded  with  the  ai)imdanl  friiil.  uhlcli  C'":- 
tinued  in  perierllv  good  condition. 

About  the  1  Itli,  a  day  of  rain  succeeeiu 
by  an  interval  of  tine  weather,  again  in'er- 
riipled  liy  a  rainy,  disagreeable  soulheai-t.':'' 
on  the  23d.  I)u-ing  the  remainder  of  tlio 
month  the  days  were  brii;.'.t  and  pleasr.nl— 
almost  of  summer — sun  and  ci.'iids  varyin;", 
the  nights  clear,  but  souietiines  ;i  little  co!:! ; 
and  mucdi  snow  showinu  on  tiie  mouiita.  ; 
overlooking  thi!  plain^  of  San  (iabriel. 

In  the  first  part  of  f'7(,'Vian/,  at  Los  Ar. 
i^i'lvs,  there  were  some  foggy  and  ini.-iy 
mornings,  with  showers  of  rain  at  intervals 
of  a  week.  The  weatlujr  then  remained  for 
several  weeks  uninterruptedly  and  lieauti- 
fiilly  serene,  the  sky  remarkably  pure,  the 
air  soft  and  gratel'ul.  and  it  was  dillicult  to 
imagine  any  climate  more  deligl/tful.  In 
the  meantime  the  processes  of  vei:e!alio:i 
went  on  with  singular  rapidity,  and.  by  t!i' 
end  of  the  month,  the  face  of  the  coun;  ry 
was  beautilul  with  the  great  abundance  ji 
pasture,  covered  with  a  lu.vuriaiil  growth  ci 
f^eratiiiini,  {rroilinin  riculiiriiim,)  so  e.-- 
teeined  as  food  for  cattle  and  horses,  and";dl 
grazing  animals,  'i'lie  orange  trees  wcve 
crowded  with  flowers  and  fruit  in  various 
sizes,  and  along  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
bordering  the  San  Gabriel  plain,  tields  of 
orange-colored  flowers  were  visible  at  tlic 
distance  of  fifteen  miles  from  Lf)s  Angeles, 

In  the  midst  of  the  bright  weaiiior  there 
was  occasionally  a  cold  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing of  March  9,  new  snow  appeared  on  tiv.; 
San  Gabriel  mountain,  and  there  was  frost 
in  the  plain  below ;  but  these  occasionally 
cold  nights  seemed  to  have  no  influence  on 
vegetation. 

On  the  23d  and  27th  of  March  tliere  were 
some  continued  and  heavy  showers  of  rain, 
about  the  last  of  the  season  in  the  southern 
country.  In  the  latter  part  of  April  fogs 
began  to  lie  very  frequent,  rising  at  midnight 
and  continuing  until  9  or  10  of  the  follow- 
ing morning.  About  the  beginning  of  May 
the  mornings  were  regularly  foggy  until  near 
noon  ;  the  remainder  of  the  day  sunny,  fre- 
quently accompanied  with  high  wind. 

The  climate  of  maritime  California  i.3 
greatly  modified  by  the  .structure  of  the 
countrv,  and  under  this  aspect  may  be  con- 
sidereil  in  three  divisions — the  soiillirrn,  lie- 
low  Point  Coiu'ei)tion  and  the  Santa  Barbara 
mountain,  about  latitude  35° ;  the  nurllicrn, 
from  f  "ape  Mendocino,  latitude  41"^,  to  the 
Oregon  boundary  ;  and  the  rniddlp,  including 
the  bay  and  basin  of  San  Francisco  and  tiio 
coast  between  Point  Conception  and  Cape 
Mendocino.  Of  those  three  divisions  llie 
rainy  season  is  longest  and  heavir-,t  in  the 
nortli  and  lightest  in  the  south.  Vegeiution 
is   governed  accordingly — c;oiiiiiig  with  the 


till'   olivo    Irc'O;-    ivrr.iiiicj 
uIiiiikImiiI   fniil.  \vlii(  li  c".:- 
y  irnod  I'diiilitiim. 
ii,  a  (lay  cil'  r.iiii  micpi'ooi  ii 
f  till'.'  wfMtiicr,  ajrain   iiP'.-r- 
ly,  (llHajirccalili'  >oiillii'a:4;:' 
i-liii|  till'  rcniaiinlcr  of  tJK 
wcrr  lirij;.;!  an'!  |il'';'.s;;iil— 
r — sun  and  li'iKJ-i  varyin::; 
Itiil  SdiiR'tliiK^s  a  liUlo  col:'  ■, 
.■^limvitiL'  I'll  till'  iiioimta  ■"; 
ilalii-  III'  San  lialiricl. 
irt  of  Fi'liriKin/.  at  Los  .\r. 
ii!    some    loiiirv    and    iiii,-iy 
showers  ol'  rain  at  interniis 
weather  then  reiiiaiiied   lor 
miiiterniiitedly  and   'jeaiiti- 
sliv  reinarkahly  pnre,  the 
tel'iil.  am!  it  was  dillicult  to 
iniate   more  deliirlitt'iil.      In 
he   processes  of  veiietatiou 
;in<riilar  rapidity,  and.  by  t)i' 
itli,  the   lace  of  the  couiiiry 
ith  the  <rreat  abniidaiice  A 
with  a  luxuriant  {jrowth  ';i 
iliiuii    ric  III  (trill  III,)     so    t'.-- 
lor  cattle  and  horses,  mKlVdl 
.     'riio   oranjre  trees  wove 
lowers  and  fruit  in  various 
;  the  foot  of  the  nioiinlain, 
km   Gabriel   jilain.  tields  of 
flowers  were  visible  at   the 
;n  miles  from  Ixis  Anijoles. 
of  the  britiht  wcaiiior  there 
'f  a  cold  ni^ht.     In  the  morn- 
new  snow  appeared  on  tlvj 
mntaiii,  and  there  was  frost 
low ;  but  these  occasionally 
incd  to  have  no  influence  on 

nd  27th  of  March  there  were 
1  and  heavy  showers  of  rain, 
r  the  season  hi  the  southern 
10  latter  part  of  April  fojrs 
f  frequent,  risinijf  at  midnight 
until  9  or  10  of  the  follow- 
\boiit  the  beginning  of  May 
3ro  rogularly  fogpy  until  near 
inder  of  the  day  sunny,  frc- 
anied  with  high  wind. 

of  maritime  California  i.3 
[1  by  the  strtictnre  of  the 
ider  this  aspect  may  bo  con- 
divisions — the  siniihi'ni,  Ixi- 
'jition  and  the  Santa  Barbara 
:  latitude  ,35° ;  the  wr/heni, 
idocino,  latitude  'H~^,  to  the 
■y  ;  and  the  midill",  iiicliidiii? 
in  of  San  Francisco  and  liie 
Point  Conception  and  Cape 
f  those  three  divisions  liio 
longest  ;ind  heaviest  in  the 
St  ill  the  south.  Ve^i'tatiou 
[•ordini'lv — I'oiiihur  with  the 


UPON  rri'KR  CALU'OILMA. 


39 


rainr»  — <!eca/'n',T  wiiere  they  fail.  Siiniiner 
and  winter,  in  our  sense  of  the  t 'rms,  are 
not  applicable  to  this  part  of  the  country.  It 
is  not  heat  and  cnM,  but  wet  and  dry,  which 
mark  the  seasons;  ami  the  winter  months, 
instead  of  killing  vegetation,  revive  it.  The 
dry  season  makes  a  period  of  consecutive 
drought,  the  only  winter  in  the  vegetation  of 
this  country,  which  can  hardly  be  said  at  any 
time  to  cease.  In  forests,  where  the  soil  is 
filipltered  ;  in  low  lands  of  streams  and  hilly 
country,  where  the  ground  remains  moist, 
ffniss  conliiiiies  constan'-y  green  and  (lowers 
bloom  in  all  the  months  of  the  year.  In  the 
southern  half  of  the  country  the  long  sum- 
mer drought  has  reriiered  irrigation  neces- 
sary, and  the  experi;  iice  of  the  missions,  in 
their  prosperous  liay,  has  shown  tlial,  in 
California,  as  elsewhere,  the  dryost  plains 
are  made  productive,  and  the  heaviest  crops 
pr^vliiped  by  that  mixle  of  cultivation.  With 
irrigation  a  succession  of  crops  may  be  pro 
uuced  throughout  the  year.  Salubrity  and  a 
regulated  mildness  characteri'/.e  the  climate  ; 
there  being  no  prevailing  diseases,  and  the 
extremes  of  heat  during  the  summer  being 
checked  by  sea  breezes  during  the  day,  and 
by  light  airs  from  the  Sierra  Nevada  during 
the  night.  The  nights  are  generally  cool 
and  rcfreshiUij,  as  is  the  e]  udc  during  the 
hottef  t  day. 


Calilonua,  beliiw  tiie  Sierra  Nevielr,  ,> 
about  the  extent  of  Italy,  geogrMphicil'v  coii- 
siilered  in  all  the  extent  of  Italy  fro!;i  tli-i 
Alps  to  the  teniiiiiation  nf  the  pi  niiisir-i.  It 
is  of  the  same  length,  about  the  same  '  re^dtli, 
con-eiiiiently  the  .-^ame  area  (about  on  .•  laiii- 
died  thousand  sijiiare  milesj,  aiul  rrr.;entrf 
much  similarity  of  climate  and  prviUK't'ons. 
Like  Italy,  it  lies  north  and  south,  and  pio- 
sents  some  dilVerences  of  climate  and  pr  >• 
ductioii'J,  the  eirecl  of  diirerence  of  laliluiit:. 
proximity  of  high  mountains,  and  conligiira- 
tion  of  the  coast.  Like  Italy,  it  is  a  country 
of  iiiouiitains  and  valleys  ;  ditVereiit  froi.i  il 
ill  its  internal  structure,  il  is  formed  for 
unihj;  its  large  rivers  being  concentric,  and 
its  largo  valleys  ajipurtenaiit  to  the  great  cen- 
tral bay  of  San  Francisco,  within  the  area 
of  whose  waters  the  doiiiiiiatiiig  power  nvvn 
bo  found. 

Geographicallv,  the  position  of  this  Cal'.- 
fornia  is  one  of  tiie  iicst  in  the  world  ;  lying 
on  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  fron'ing  Asia,  ou 
the  line  of  an  American  roac!  to  A:ia,  and 
possessed  of  advantages  to  ;Wvo  full  eifectto 
its  grand  geographical  posi'.ion. 

AH  which  is  respectfully  cu'  n^'itted  ; 

J.  CHARLES  iliEMONT. 

Wasjukgton,  Jam,  1S43. 


MISS 


To  Colon* 

Chief 
Sir:  A 
and  repor 
frontiers  o 
the  Rocky 
Kansas  a 
from  Was 
1842,  anc 
New  Yorl 
cessary  pi 
expeditior 
steamboat 
hundred  r 
Hear  the  i 
we  proce< 
Chouteau 
Dieted  ou 
lion. 

Bad  m 
nomical 
days  in  t 
which  is 
river,  abo 
six  beyon 
The  sky 
enabled  1 
tude  94o 
The  ele\ 
feet.  O 
an  animi 
busily  oc 
arrange  n 
derness, 
the  verg( 
with  all  1 
nomadic 
summer 
thing — tl 
horses, 
place,  ai 


A  REPORT 


AN  EXPLORATION  OF  THE  COUNTRY 


LTIKO  BETWBtR  TO! 


MISSOURI   RIVER   AND    THE    ROCKY    MOUNLUNS, 


OR  THE  LINl  or 


THE    KANSAS    AND    GREAT    PLATTE   RIVERS. 


Washington,  March  1,  1843.  I 
To  Colonel  J.  J-  Abert, 

Chief  of  thi!  Corps  of  Top.  Eng : 
Sir  :  Agreeably  to  your  orders  to  explore 
and  report  upon  the    country  between  the 
frontiers  of  Missouri  and  the  South  Pass  in 
the  Rocky  mountains,  and  on  the  line  of  the 
Kansas  and  Great  Platto  rivers,  I  set  out 
from  Washington  city  on  the  2d  day  of  May, 
1842,  and  arrived  at  St.  Louis,  by  way  of 
New  York,  the  2-2d  of  May,  where  the  ne- 
cessary preparations  were  completed,  and  the 
expedition   commenced.     I   proceeded  in  a 
steamboat  to  Chouteau's  landing,  about  four 
hundred  miles  by  water  from  St.  Louis,  and 
Hear  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  river,  whence 
we  proceeded  twelve  miles  to  Mr.  Cyprian 
Chouteau's  trading  house,  where  we  coni- 
pleted  our  final  arrangements  lor  the  expedi- 
tion. . 

Bad  weather,  which  interfered  with  astro- 
nomical observations,  delayed  us  several 
days  in  the  early  part  of  June  at  this  post, 
which  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kansas 
river,  about  ten  miles  above  the  mouth,  and 
six  beyond  the  western  boundary  of  Missouri. 
The  sky  cleared  ofTat  length,  and  we  were 
enabled  to  determine  our  position,  in  longi- 
tude 94o  25'  46",  and  latitude  39°  6'  57". 
The  elevation  above  the  sea  is  about  700 
feet.  Our  camp,  in  the  meantime,  presented 
an  animated  and  bustling  scene.  All  were 
busily  occupied  in  completing  the  necessary 
arrangements  for  our  campaign  in  the  wil- 
derness, and  profiting  by  this  short  delay  on 
the  verge  of  civilisation,  to  provide  ourselves 
with  all  the  little  essentials  to  comfort  in  the 
nomadic  life  we  were  to  lead  for  the  ensuing 
summer  months.  Gradually,  however,  every- 
thing— the  maleriel  of  the  camj),  men, 
horses,  and  even  mules— settled  into  its 
place,  and  by  the  lOtli  we  were  ready  to  de- 


part ;  but,  before  we  mount  our  horses,  I  will 
give  a  short  description  of  tiie  party  with 
which  I  performed  this  service. 

I  had  collected  in  the  neighborhood  of  St. 
Louis  twenty-one  men,  principally  Creole  and 
Canadian  voyageurs,  who  had  become  fami- 
liar with  prairie  life  in  the  service  of  the  fur 
companies  in  the  Indian  country.  Mr. 
Charles  Preuss,  a  native  of  Germany,  was 
my  assistant  in  the  topographical  part  of  the 
survey.  L.  Maxwell,  of  Kaskaskia,  had 
been  engaged  as  hunter,  and  Christopher 
Carson  (more  familiarly  known,  for  his  ex- 
ploits in  the  mountains,  as  Kit  Carson)  was 
our  guide.  The  persons  engaged  in  St. 
Louis  were : 

Clement  Lambert,  J.  B.  L'Esperance,  J. 
B.  Lefevre,  Benjamin  Potra,  Louis  Gouin, 
J.  B.  Dum^s,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  Fran9oi8 
Tessier,  Benjamin  Cadotte,  Joseph  Climent, 
Daniel  Simonds,  Leonard  Benoit,  Michel 
Morly,  Baptiste  Bernier,  Ilonore  Ayot,  Fran- 
9oi8  Latulippe,  Fran9ois  Badeau,  Louis  Me- 
nard, Joseph  Ruelle,  Moise  Chardonnais, 
Auguste  Janisse,  Raphael  Proue. 

In  addition  to  these,  Henry  Brant,  son  of 
Col.  J.  B.  Brant,  of  St.  Louis,  a  young  man 
of  nineteen  years  of  age,  and  Randolph,  a 
lively  boy  of  twelve,  son  of  the  Hon.  Thomas 
H.  Benton,  accompanied  me,  for  the  develop- 
ment of  mind  and  body  which  such  an  expe- 
dition would  give.  We  were  all  well  armed 
and  mounted,  with  the  exception  of  eight 
men,  who  conducted  as  many  carts,  in  which 
were  packed  our  stores,  with  the  baggage 
and  instruments,  and  which  were  each  drawn 
by  two  mules.  A  few  loose  horses,  and  four 
oxen,  which  had  been  added  to  our  stock  of 
provisions,  completed  the  train.  We  set  out 
on  the  morning  of  the  lOtli,  which  happened 
to  be  Friday — a  circumstance  which  our  men 
did  not  fail  to  remember  and  recall  during 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1842. 


the  hnrdfihins  find  vexations  of  the  ennuing 

i'ourncy.  Mr.  Cyprian  Cliouteaii,  to  whope 
sindncsR,  during  our  stay  at  his  house,  wc 
were  much  indebted,  accompanied  us  several 
miles  on  our  way,  until  we  met  an  Indian, 
whom  he  had  engaged  to  conduct  us  on  the 
first  thirty  or  forty  miles,  where  he  was  to 
consign  us  to  the  ocean  of  prairie,  which,  we 
were  told,  stretched  without  interruption  al- 
most to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

From  the  belt  of  wood  which  borders  the 
Kansas,  in  wliich  we  had  passed  several 
good-looking  Indian  farms,  wc  suddenly 
emerged  on  the  prairies,  which  received  us 
at  the  outset  with  some  of  their  striking  cha- 
racteristics ;  for  here  and  there  rode  an  In- 
dian, and  but  a  few  miles  distant  heavy  clouds 
of  smoke  were  rolling  before  the  (ire.  In 
about  ten  miles  we  reached  the  Santa  Fe 
road,  along  which  we  continued  for  a  short 
time,  and  encamped  early  on  a  small  stream  ; 
having  travelled  about  eleven  miles.  Dur- 
ing our  journey,  it  was  the  customary  prac- 
tice to  encamp  an  hour  or  two  before  sunset, 
whe;i  the  carts  were  disposed  so  as  to  form 
a  sort  of  barricade  around  a  circle  some 
eighty  yards  in  diameter.  The  tents  were 
pitched,  and  the  horses  liobbled  and  turned 
loose  to  graze ;  and  but  a  few  minutes 
elapsed  before  the  cooks  of  the  messes,  of 
which  there  were  four,  were  busily  engaged 
in  preparing  the  evening  meal.  At  night- 
fall, the  horses,  mules,  and  oxen,  were  driven 
in  and  picketed — that  is,  secured  by  a  halter, 
of  which  one  end  was  tied  to  a  small  steel- 
shod  picket,  and  driven  into  the  ground ;  the 
halter  being  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  vhicli 
enabled  them  to  obtain  a  little  food  during 
the  night.  When  we  had  reached  a  part  of 
the  country  where  stich  a  precaution  became 
necessary,  the  carts  being  regularly  arranged 
for  defending  the  camp,  guard  was  mounted 
at  eight  o'clock,  consisting  of  three  men, 
who  were  relieved  every  two  hours;  the 
morning  watch  being  horse  guard  for  the  day. 
At  davbreak,  the  camp  was  roused,  tlie  ani- 
mals turned  loose  to  graze,  and  breakfast 
generally  over  between  six  and  seven  o'clock, 
when  we  resumed  our  march,  making  regu- 
larly a  halt  at  noon  for  one  or  two  hours. 
Sucli  was  usually  the  onler  of  the  day,  ex- 
cept when  accident  of  co'intry  forced  a  varia- 
tion ;  which,  however,  happened  but  ra.ely. 
We  travelled  the  next  day  alofg  the  8anfa 
FAroad,  which  we  left  in  the  afternoon,  and 
encamoed  late  m  the  evening  on  a  small 
creek,  called  by  the  Indians  Mishmagwi. 
Just  as  we  arrived  at  camp,  one  of  the  horses 
set  off  at  full  speed  on  his  return,  and  was 
followed  by  others.  Several  men  were  sent 
in  pursuit,  and  returned  with  the  fugitives 
about  midnight,  with  the  exception  of  one 
man,  who  did  not  make  his  appearance  until 
morning,     He  had  lost  his  way  in  the  dark- 


ness of  the  niglit,  and  slept  on  the  prairie. 
Shortly  after  midnight  it  began  to  rain  hea- 
vily, and,  as  our  tents  were  of  light  and  thin 
cloth,  they  offered  but  little  obstruction  to 
rain ;  we  were  all  well  soaked,  and  gind  when 
morninji  came.  We  had  a  rainy  march  on 
the  12th,  but  the  weather  grew  tine  as  the 
day  advanced.  Weencamiicil  it.  a  remarka- 
bly beautiful  situation  on  the  Kansas  bluffs, 
which  commanded  a  tine  view  of  the  river 
valley,  here  from  three  to  foiir  miles  wide. 
The  central  portion  was  occupied  by  a  broad 
belt  of  heavy  tindier,  and  nearer  the  hills  the 
prairies  were  of  the  richest  verdure.  One 
of  the  oxen  was  killed  here  for  food. 

We  reached  the  ford  of  the  Kansas  late 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  11th,  where  the  river 
was  two  hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and 
commenced  immediately  preparations  for 
crossing.  I  had  expected  to  find  the  river 
fordable  :  but  it  had  been  swollen  by  the  late 
rains,  and  was  sweeping  by  with  an  angry 
current,  yellow  and  turbid  as  .ne  Missouri. 
Up  to  this  point,  the  road  we  had  travelled 
WHS  a  remarkably  fine  one,  well  beaten,  and 
level — the  usual  road  of  a  ])niirie  country. 
I]y  our  route,  the  ford  was  one  himdred 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  rive^. 
Several  mounted  men  led  the  way  into  the 
stream,  to  swim  across.  The  animals  were 
driven  in  after  them,  and  in  a  few  miputes 
all  had  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safety, 
with  the  exception  of  the  oxen,  which  swam 
some  distance  down  the  river,  and,  returning 
to  the  right  bank,  were  not  got  over  until 
the  next  morning.  In  the  meantime,  the 
carts  had  been  unloaded  and  dismantled,  and 
an  India-rubber  boat,  which  I  had  brought 
with  me  for  the  survey  of  tiie  Pintle  river, 
placed  in  the  \\ater.  The  boat  wa.^  twenty 
feet  long  and  five  broad,  and  on  it  were 
placed  the  body  and  wheels  of  a  cart,  with 
the  load  belonging  to  it,  and  three  men  with 
paddles. 

The  velocity  of  the  current,  and  the  incon- 
venient freight,  rendering  it  difficult  to  be 
managed,  Basil  Lajeunesse,  one  of  our  best 
swimmers,  took  in  his  teeth  a  line  attached 
to  the  boat,  and  swam  ahead  in  order  to 
reach  a  footing  as  soon  as  possible,  and  as- 
sist in  drawing  her  over.  In  this  manner, 
six  pa.afjiges  had  been  successfully  made, 
and  as  many  carts  with  their  contents,  and 
a  greater  portion  of  the  party,  deposited  on 
the  left  bank ;  but  night  was  drawing  neat; 
and,  in  our  anxiety  to  have  ail  over  helbre 
the  darkness  closed  in,  I  put  upon  the  boat 
the  remaining  two  carts,  with  their  accom- 
panying load.  The  man  at  the  helm  was 
timid  on  vs'ater,  and,  '."■  ,;i-  alarm,  capsized 
the  boat.  Carts,  barreir-,  boxes,  and  bales, 
were  in  a  moment  floating  down  the  current ; 
but  all  the  men  who  were  on  the  shore 
jtimocd  into  the  water,  without  stopping  to 


ilio 


[1842. 

nnd  filrpt  on  the  prairie. 
nipiit  it  bcpan  to  rain  lion- 
Iciitswpre  of  lif.'lit  and  tliin 
but  little  obstruction  to 
well  soaked,  and  plad  when 
We  had  a  rainy  march  on 
'  weather  prew  tine  as  the 
Weencarnped  it.  aremarka- 
lation  (in  the  Kansa.«  bluffs, 
'<1  a  fine  view  of  the  river 
three  to  four  miles  wide, 
ion  was  occupied  ity  a  broad 
lier,  and  nearer  the  hills  the 
he  richest  verdure.  One 
ilied  here  for  food. 

ford  of  the  Kansas  late 

if  the  11th,  where  the  river 

1  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and 

mediately    preparations    for 

e.Npectcd  to  find  tlie  river 

ad  been  swollen  by  the  late 

weeping  by  with  an  angry 

and  turbid  as  .ne  Missouri. 

the  road  we  had  travelled 

ly  fine  one,  well  beaten,  and 

road  of  a  ])niirie  country. 

the  ford  was  one  hundred 

nouth  of  th"  Kansas  rivei, 

]  m^n  led  the  way  into  the 

across.     The  animals  were 

hem,  and  in  a  few  minutes 

the  opposite  bank  in  safety, 

on  of  the  oxen,  which  swam 

own  the  river,  and,  returning 

nk,  were  not  got  over  until 

ing.     In  the  meantime,  the 

inloaded  and  dismantled,  and 

boat,  which  I  had  brought 

survey  of  fiie  Platte  liver, 

iter.     'Die  boat  was  twenty 

ive   broad,  and   on  it  were 

and  wheels  of  a  cart,  with 

ng  to  it,  and  three  men  with 

of  the  current,  and  the  incon- 
rendering  it  difficult  to  be 
Lajeunesse,  one  of  our  best 
in  his  teeth  a  line  attached 
1  swam  ahead  in  order  to 
as  soon  as  possible,  and  as- 
her  over.  In  this  manner, 
id  been  succesffully  made, 
rts  with  their  contents,  and 
1  of  the  party,  deposited  on 
ut  night  was  drawing  near, 
ety  to  liave  all  over  before 
sed  in,  I  put  upon  the  boat 
.vo  carts,  with  tlieir  accom- 
J'he  man  at  the  helm  was 
and,  ':i  ,;i-  alarm, capsized 
S  barrei.-,  boxes,  and  bales, 
nt  floating  down  the  current ; 
■n  who  were  on  the  shore 
water,  without  stopping  to 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FRK.MONT'S  NAR11.\T1VK. 


f 


think  if  they  could  swim,  and  almost  every- 
thing— even  heavy  articles,  such  as  guns 
knd  lead — was  recovered. 

Two  of  the  men,  who  could  not  swim, 
came  nigli  being  drowned,  and  all  the  sugar 
belonging  to  one  of  the  mo«ses  wasted  its 
dweeta  on  the  muddy  waters  ;  but  our  hea- 
viest loss  was  a  bag  of  coffee,  which  con- 
tained nearly  all  our  provision.  It  was  a 
loss  which  none  but  a  traveller  in  a  strange 
and  inhospitable  country  can  appreciate  ;  and 
often  afterward,  when  excessive  toil  and  long 
marching  had  overcome  us  with  fatigue  and 
weariness,  we  remeinbercd  and  mourned 
over  our  lo'?s  in  the  Kansas,  (.'arson  and 
Maxwell  had  been  much  in  the  water  yes- 
terday, and  both,  in  consequence,  were  taken 
ill.  The  former  continuing  so,  I  remained 
in  camp.  A  number  of  Kansas  Indians 
visited  us  to-day.  Going  up  to  one  of  the 
groups  who  were  scattered  among  the  tree.s, 
1  found  one  sitting  on  the  ground,  among 
some  of  the  men,  gravely  and  fluently  speak- 
ing French,  with  as  much  facility  and  as 
little  embarrassment  as  any  of  ray  own 
party,  who  were  nearly  all  ofFrench  origin. 

On  all  sides  was  heard  the  strange  lan- 
guage of  his  own  people,  wild,  and  harmon- 
izing well  with  their  appearance.  I  listened 
to  him  for  some  time  with  feelings  of  strange 
curiosity  and  interest.  He  was  now  appa- 
rently thirty-five  years  of  age ;  and,  on  in- 
quiry, I  learned  that  he  had  been  at  St.  Ixiuis 
when  a  boy,  and  there  had  learned  the 
French  language.  PVom  one  of  the  Indian 
women  I  obtained  a  fine  cow  and  calf  in  ex- 
change for  a  yoke  of  oxen.  Several  of  them 
brought  us  vegetables,  pumpkins,  onions, 
beans,  and  lettuce.  One  of  them  brought 
butter,  and  from  a  half-breed  near  the  river 
(  had  the  good  fortune  to  obtain  some  twenty 
or  thirty  pounds  of  coffee.  The  dense  tim- 
ber in  which  we  liad  encamped  interfered 
with  astronomical  observations,  and  our  wet 
and  damaged  stores  required  exposure  to  the 
sun.  Accordingly,  the  tents  were  struck  early 
the  next  morning,  and,  leaving  camp  at  six 
o'clock,  we  moved  about  seven  miles  up  the 
river,  to  a  handsome,  open  prairie,  some 
twenty  feet  above  the  water,  where  the  fine 
grass  afforded  a  luxurious  repast  to  our 
horses. 

During  the  day  we  occupied  ourselves  in 
making  astronomical  observations,  in  order 
to  lay  down  the  country  to  tliis  place  ;  it 
being  our  custom  to  keep  up  our  map  regu- 
larly in  the  field,  which  we  found  attended 
with  many  advantages.  The  men  were 
kept  busy  in  drying  the  provisions,  painting 
the  cart  covers,  and  otherwise  completing 
our  equipage,  until  the  afternoon,  when  pow- 
der was  distributed  to  them,  and  they  spent 
some  hours  in  firiiio;  at  a  mark.  We  were 
now  fairly  in  the  Indian  country,  and  it  be- 


gan to  bo  time  to  prepare  for  the  chances  of 
the  wilderness. 

Friday,  June  17. — The  weather  yesterday 
had  not  permitted  us  to  innkc  the  olwerva- 
tiiiiis  I  was  desirous  to  obtain  here,  and  I 
therefore  did  not  move  to-day.  The  people 
continued  their  target  firing.  In  the  steep 
bank  of  the  river  here,  were  nests  of  iniiu- 
meriilile  swallows,  into  one  of  which  a  large 
prairie  snake  had  got  alwiit  half  his  IhmIv, 
and  was  occupied  in  eating  the  young  birds. 
The  old  ones  were  flying  about  in  great  dis- 
tress, darting  at  him,  and  vainly  endeavoring 
to  drive  him  oft".  A  shot  wounded  him,  and, 
being  killed,  he  was  cut  open,  and  eighteen 
young  swallows  were  found  in  his  body.  A 
sudden  storm,  that  burst  upon  us  in  the  af- 
ternoon, cleared  away  in  a  brilliant  sunset, 
followed  by  a  clear  night,  which  enabled  us 
to  determine  our  position  in  longitude  95° 
38'  05",  and  in  latitude  39"  Ofi'  4U' 

A  party  of  emigrants  to  the  Columbia 
river,  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  White,  an 
agent  of  the  Government  in  Oregon  'terri- 
tory, were  about  three  weeks  in  advance  of 
us.  They  consisted  of  men,  women,  and 
children.  There  were  sixty-four  men,  and 
sixteen  or  seventeen  families.  They  had  a 
considerable  number  of  cattle,  and  were 
transporting  their  household  furniture  in 
largo  heavy  wagons.  I  understood  that  there 
ban  been  much  sickness  among  them,  and 
that  they  had  lost  several  children.  One  of 
the  party  who  had  lost  his  child,  and  whose 
wife  was  very  ill,  had  left  them  about  one 
hundred  miles  hence  on  the  prairies;  and  as 
a  hunter,  who  had  accompanied  them,  visited 
our  camp  this  evening,  we  availed  ourselves 
of  his  return  to  the  States  to  write  to  our 
friends. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  very  unplea- 
sant. A  fine  rain  was  falling,  with  cold 
wind  •"rom  the  north,  and  mists  made  the 
river  hills  look  dark  and  gloomy.  We  left 
our  camp  at  seven,  journeying  along  the  foot 
of  the  hiils  which  border  the  Kansas  valley, 
generally  about  three  miles  wide,  and  e,x- 
tremcly  rich.  We  halted  for  dinner,  after  a 
m.arch  of  about  thirteen  miles,  on  the  banks 
of  one  of  the  many  little  tributaries  to  the 
Kansas,  which  look  like  trenches  in  the 
prairie,  and  are  usually  well  timbered.  Af- 
ter crossing  this  stream,  I  rode  off  some 
miles  to  the  left,  attracted  by  the  appearance 
of  a  cluster  of  huts  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Vermillion.  It  was  a  large  but  deserted  Kan- 
sas village,  scattered  in  an  open  wood,  along 
the  margin  of  the  stream,  on  a  spot  chosen 
with  the  customary  Indian  fondness  for  beauty 
of  scenery.  The  Pawnees  had  attacked  it 
in  the  early  spring.  Some  of  the  houses 
were  burnt,  and  others  blackened  with 
smoke,  and  weeds  were  already  getting  pos- 
session of  the  cleared  places.    Riding  up 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[184a 


the  Vermillion  river,  I  rcarlied  tlif  ford  in 
time  to  meet  tlio  rarts,  niul,  crossin<;,  rn- 
campeil  on  iu  western  side.  'I'lie  weallior 
conliniied  cool,  the  liiermoniefer  beinp  this 
evening  H»  low  bs  49°;  hut  the  nij,'lit  was 
•ulliciently  dear  for  astronomicnl  obscrva- 
tioriH,  which  placed  us  in  lon^iludo  90°  04' 
07',  and  latitude  39°  15'  19".  At  Bunset, 
tlie  barometer  was  at  28.845,  thermonieter 
«4°. 

We  breakfasted  the  next  morning  at  lialf 
past  five,  and  left  our  encampment  early. 
The  morninjj  was  cool,  the  thermometer 
being  at  45^.  Qnittinfj  the  river  bottom, 
the  road  ran  alonjj  the  uplands,  over  a  roll- 
ing country,  generally  in  view  of  the  Kan- 
sas fn)m  eight  to  twelve  miles  distant. 
Many  large  boulders,  of  a  very  compact 
sandstone,  of  various  shades  of  red,  some  of 
them  four  or  five  tons  in  weight,  were  scat- 
tcrwl  along  the  hills;  and  many  beautiful 
plants  in  llowcr,  among  which  tiie  anwrpha 
cancsrens  was  a  characteristic,  enlivened  the 
green  of  the  prairie.  At  the  heads  of  the 
ravines  I  remarked,  occasionally,  thickets 
of  sali.v  Inritiifdlia,  the  ^jiost  common  willow 
of  the  country.  We  travelled  nineteen 
miles,  and  pitched  our  tents  at  evening  on 
the  head  waters  of  a  small  creek,  now  nearly 
dry,  but  having  in  its  bed  several  line  springs. 
The  barometer  indicated  a  considerable  rise 
in  the  country — here  about  fourteen  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea — and  the  increased  eleva- 
tion appeared  already  to  have  some  slight 
influence  upon  the  vegetation.  The  night 
was  cold,  with  a  heavy  dew  ;  the  thermome- 
ter at  10  p.  m.  standing  at  4(1°,  barometer 
28  483.  Our  position  was  in  longitude  96° 
14'  49",  and  latitude  39°  30'  40  '. 

The  morning  of  the  20lii  was  line,  with  a 
southerly  breeze  and  a  bright  sky ;  and  at 
seven  o'clock  we  were  on  the  march.  The 
country  to-day  was  rather  more  broken,  ris- 
ing still,  and  covered  everywhere  with  frag- 
ments of  siliceous  limestone,  particularly  on 
Jie  summits,  where  they  were  small,  and 
thickly  strewed  as  pebbles  on  the  shore  of 
the  sea.  In  these  exposed  situations  grew 
but  few  plants ;  though,  whenever  the  soil 
was  good  and  protected  from  the  winds,  in 
the  creek  bottoms  and  ravines,  and  on  the 
slopes,  they  flourished  abundantly ;  among 
them  the  amorpha,  still  retaining  its  charac- 
teristic place.  We  crossed  at  10  a.  m.,  the 
Big  Vermillion,  which  has  a  rich  bottom  of 
about  one  mile  in  breadth,  one-third  of  which 
i«  occupied  by  timber.  Making  our  usual 
halt  at  noon,  after  a  day's  march  of  twc»ty- 
four  miles,  we  readied  the  Big  Blue,  and 
encamped  on  the  uplands  of  tiie  western 
side,  near  a  small  creek,  where  was  a  tine 
large  spring  of  very  cold  water.  This  is  a 
clear  and  huuGsome  stream,  about  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet  wide,  running,  with  a 


rapid  current,  through  a  well-tinilwrcd  vtl 
ley.  To-day  nnlelope  were  seen  running; 
over  till!  hills,  and  at  evening  Carson  brought 
us  a  tine  doer.  JiOngitude  of  the  camp  90^ 
32-  35 ',  latitude  39"  At>  08. "  Thermome- 
ter at  sunset  Ib'^.  A  nleasant  southerly 
breeze  and  line  morning  liad  given  place  to 
a  gale,  with  indications  of  bad  weather; 
when,  after  a  march  of  ten  miles,  we  halted 
to  no(m  on  a  small  creek,  where  the  watf  r 
stood  in  deep  pools.  In  the  banK  of  the 
creek  limestone  made  its  appearance  in  a 
stratum  about  one  foot  thick.  In  the  after 
noon,  the  people  seemed  to  sufl'er  for  want 
of  water.  The  road  led  along  a  high  dry 
ridgn  ;  dark  lines  of  timber  indicated  the 
heads  of  streams  in  the  plains  below ;  but 
there  was  no  water  near,  and  the  day  was 
very  oppressive,  with  a  hot  wind,  and  the 
thermometer  at  90*.  Along  our  route  the 
amnrpliii  has  been  in  very  abundant  but  va- 
riable bloom — in  some  places  bending  be- 
neath the  weight  of  purple  clusters  ;  in  oth- 
ers without  a  flower.  It  seems  to  love  best 
the  sunny  slopes,  with  a  dark  soil  and  gouth- 
ern  e.\posurp.  Everywhere  the  rose  is  met 
with,  and  reminds  us  of  cultivated  gardens 
and  civilisation.  It  is  scattered  over  the 
prairies  in  small  bouquets,  and,  when  glitter- 
ing in  the  dews  and  waving  in  the  pleasant 
breeze  of  the  early  morning,  is  the  mcst 
beautiful  of  the  prairie  flowers.  The  arte- 
misia,  ahsinthe,  or  prairie  sage,  as  it  is  va- 
riously chlled,  is  increasing  in  size,  and  glit- 
ters like  silver,  as  the  soutliern  breeze  turns 
up  its  loaves  to  the  sun.  All  these  plants 
have  their  insect  inhabitants,  variously  color- 
ed ;  taking  generally  the  hue  of  the  flower 
on  which  they  live.  The  artemisia  has  its 
small  fly  accompanying  it  through  every 
change  of  elevation  and  latitude ;  and  wher- 
ever I  have  seen  the  asclepias  luberosa,  I 
have  always  remarked,  too,  on  the  flower  a 
large  butterfly,  so  nearly  resembling  it  in 
color  as  to  be  distinguishable  at  a  little  dis- 
tance only  by  the  motion  of  its  wings.  Tra- 
velling on,  the  fresh  traces  cf  the  Oregon 
emigrants  relieve  a  little  the  loneliness  of 
the  road ;  and  to-night,  after  a  march  of 
twenty-two  miles,  we  halted  on  a  small 
creek,  which  had  been  one  of  their  encamp- 
ments. As  we  advance  westward,  the  soil 
appears  to  be  getting  more  sandy,  and  the 
surface  rock,  an  erratic  deposite  of  sand  and 
gravel,  rests  here  on  a  bed  of  coarse  yellow 
and  grey  and  very  friable  sandstone.  Even- 
ing closed  over  with  rain  and  its  usual  at- 
tendant hordes  of  musquitoes,  with  which 
we  were  annoyed  for  the  first  time. 

June  22. — We  enjoyed  at  breakfast  this 
morning  a  luxury,  very  unusual  in  this 
country,  in  a  cup  of  excellent  coft'ee,  with 
cream  from  our  cow.  Being  milked  at 
night,  cream  was  thus  had  in  tlie  morning. 


r:. 


[1843. 


rdiigh  a  well-tinilwrcd  val 
ti.'l()|)(?   wrre  seen    running 
I  at  evpiiinp  Carson  brouglit 
I -011(1  it  lido  iif  the  camp  1*0*' 
3!}"  45'  08.  •     Thcrinomc- 
75".     A  nlcasnnt  southerly 
inorninjr  liad  given  place  to 
idicationa   of  Lad  weather; 
rch  of  ten  miles,  wo  lialtcci 
mil   creeli,  where  the  water 
pools.     In  the  banK  of  the 
made  its  appearance  in  a 
le  foot  thick.     In  the  nfler 
seemed  to  siifler  for  want 
road  led  ulong  a  high  dry 
of  timher  mdicated  the 
IS  in  the  plains  below  ;  but 
ater  near,  and  the  day  was 
with  a  hot  wind,  and  the 
90*.     Alonnr  our  route  the 
?en  in  very  abundant,  but  va- 
n  some  places  bendinp  bo- 
lt of  purple  clusters  ;  in  otli- 
ower.     It  seems  to  love  best 
?,  with  a  dark  soil  and  gouth- 
I'iVcrywhere  the  rose  is  met 
ids  us  of  cultivated  pardeiia 
It   is   scattered  over  the 
bouquets,  and,  when  glitter- 
aiid  waving  in  the  pleasant 
early  morning,  is  the  most 
prairie  flowers.     The  arle- 
^  or  prairie  sage,  as  it  is  va- 
s  increasing  in  size,  and  glit- 
as  the  southern  breeze  turns 
o  the  sun.     Ail  these  plants 
:t  inhabitants,  variously  color- 
icrally  the  hue  of  the  flower 
live.     The  artemisia  has  its 
inpanying   it  through  every 
ition  and  latitude ;  and  wher- 
?en  the  asclepias  tuberosa,  I 
;inarked,  too,  on  the  flower  a 
,  so  nearly  resembling  it  in 
Jistiiiguishable  at  a  little  dis- 
lie  motion  of  its  wings.     Tra- 
fresh  traces  cf  the  Oregon 
H'e  a  little  the  loneliness  of 
to-night,  after  a  march  of 
iles,  we   halted  on  a  small 
ad  been  one  of  their  encamp- 
D  advance  westward,  the  soil 
getting  more  sandy,  and  the 
n  erratic  deposite  of  sand  and 
're  on  a  bed  of  coarse  yellow 
ery  friable  sandstone.     Even- 
r  with  rain  and  its  usual  at- 
3  of  musquitoes,  with  which 
'cd  for  the  first  time. 
Vo  enjoyed  at  breakfast  this 
xiiry,  very   unusual    in  this 
:up  of  excellent  coffee,  with 
ur  cow.      Being  milked   at 
as  thus  had  in  tlie  morning. 


1843.] 


CAPT.  1<MU:.\I0\T\S  NARRATI\  H 


Our  m'd-day  lir.lt  was  at  Wyeth's  creek,  in 
the  bc<l  of  which  were  nuiiii'roiiH  huiildcr.s 
of  dark  forruginous  sandittoiie,  iiiiiigli'd  with 
ntherij  of  the  red  Kandntone  airt'ndy  nuMi- 
tioned.  Here  a  pack  of  cards,  lyiii;;  loose 
un  tiie  grass,  iiiiirked  an  encanipniciil  of  our 
Oregon  eiiiigrant.s  ;  and  it  wii.s  at  the  clo.so 
uf  the  day  when  we  made  our  bivouac  in  the 
midft  of  some  well-tiinliered  ravines  near  the 
Little  liluc,  twenly-tour  miles  from  our 
rainp  of  the  preceding  right,  (-"rossing  the 
next  morning  a  number  of  handsome  creeks, 
n'ilh  clear  water  and  sandy  beds,  we  reacln'd, 
at  10  a.  in.,  a  very  beautiful  wooded  stream, 
about  tliirly-tivo  feet  wide,  called  Sandy 
creek,  and  souiotimes,  as  the  Ottoe.s  fre- 
quently winter  there,  the  Otto  fork.  The 
country  has  become  very  sandy,  and  the 
plants  less  varied  and  abundant,  with  the 
o.Kceplion  oi'  the  anuirphn,  which  rivals  the 
grass  in  ipiaiitity,  though  not  so  forward  as 
it  has  been  loimd  to  the  eastward. 

At  the  JJig  'i'rees,  where  wo  had  intended 
to  noon,  no  water  was  to  be  tound.  The  bed 
of  the  little  creek  was  perfectly  dry,  and,  on 
tlie  adjacent  sandy  bottom,  cnrt'i,  for  the  lirst 
time,  made  their  appearance.  We  made 
here  a  short  delay  in  search  of  water ;  and, 
alter  a  hard  day's  inarch  of  twenty-eight 
miles,  encain|]ed,  at  5  o'clock,  on  the  Little 
Blue,  where  our  arrival  made  a  scene  of  the 
Arabian  desert.  As  fast  as  they  arrived,  men 
md  horses  .uslied  into  the  stream,  where 
they  bathed  and  drank  together  in  common 
enjoyment.  We  were  now  in  the  range  of 
the  i'awnees,  who  were  accustomed  to  inlest 
tills  part  of  the  country,  stealing  horses  from 
companies  on  their  way  to  tlie  moiiiitaiiis, 
and,  when  in  sullicient  force,  openly  attack- 
ing and  plundering  them,  and  subjecting 
»hem  to  various  kinds  of  insult.  For  the 
'irst  time,  therefore,  guard  was  mounted  to- 
night. Our  route  the  no.\t  morning  lay  up 
the  valley,  wliich,  bordered  by  hills  with 
grateful  .-lopes,  looked  uncommonly  green 
and  beautit'iil.  The  stream  was  about  lilty 
feet  wide,  and  three  or  four  deep,  fringed  by 
cotton  wood  and  willow,  with  frequent  groves 
of  oak  tenanted  by  ilocks  of  turkeys.  Game 
here,  too,  made  its  appearance  in  greater 
plenty.  VAk  were  frequently  seen  on  the 
hills,  and  now  and  then  an  antelope  bouiuled 
across  our  path,  or  a  deer  broke  from  the 
ixroves.  The  road  in  the  afternoon  was  over 
tlio  upper  prairies,  several  miles  from  the 
river,  and  we  encamped  at  sun.sct  on  one  of 
its  small  tributaries,  where  an  abundance  of 
prele  {equiiiHum)  alUirded  tine  forage  to  our 
tired  animals.  We  had  travelled  tliirty-one 
miles.  A  heavy  bank  of  black  clouds  in  the 
west  caine  on  us  in  a  storm  between  nine 
and  ten,  preceded  by  a  violent  wind.  The 
rain  fell  in  .-urli  torrents  that  it  was  dilFicull 
to  breatlie  lacing  the  wind,  the  thunder  rolled 


incessantly,  and  the  whole  sky  was  tremu- 
l.ms  with  lii,'litniiig ;  now  and  lln'ii  illumin- 
ated by  a  b'inding  tlash,  succeeded  by  pitchy 
darkness.  Car.'on  had  the  watch  trom  fen 
to  miilnight,  and  to  linii  linil  brcii  a-siu'iied 
our  voimg  comjiiti^  lions  ilr  viii/iii;i\  Messrs. 
Uraii't  and  11.  lieiiton.  This  was  their  first 
night  on  guard,  and  such  an  introduction  diil 
not  augur  very  auspiciously  ol  the  pleasure!) 
of  the  e.xpediiion.  Miiny  things  conspired  to 
render  their  situation  iincointortable  ;  stories 
of  desperate  and  blondy  Indiiin  fights  werp 
rife  in  the  camp;  our  position  was  badly 
chosen,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  timbered 
hollows,  and  occupving  an  area  of  several 
hundred  feet,  so  that  necessarily  the  guards 
were  far  apart ;  and  now  and  then  I  ccnild 
hear  Ilandol|ili,  as  if  relieved  by  the  sound 
of  a  voice  in  the  darkness,  calling  out  to  the 
serueant  of  the  guard,  to  direct  his  attention 
to  some  imaginary  alarm;  but  tl.ey  stood  it 
I'lit,  and  took  their  turn  regularly  after- 
ward. 

The  ne.xt  morning  we  had  a  specimen  of 
the  false  alarms  to  which  all  parties  in  these 
wild  regions  are  subject,  I'roceedinir  up 
the  valley,  objects  were  seen  on  the  oppo- 
site hills,  which  disap|)eared  brfore  a  glass 
could  be  brought  to  bear  upon  them.  A 
man,  who  was  a  short  distance  in  the  rear, 
came  spurring  up  in  great  ha.ste,  shouting 
Inilians !  Indians!  lie  had  been  near 
enough  to  see  and  count  them,  according  to 
his  report,  and  had  made  out  twenty-seven. 
I  immediately  halted;  arms  were  examined 
and  put  in  order;  the  usual  preparations 
ma<le ;  and  Kit  Carson,  springing  upon  one 
^f  the  hunting  horses,  crossed  the  river,  and 
gallojied  otV  into  the  opposite  prairies,  to  ob- 
tain some  certain  intelligence  of  their  move- 
ments. 

.Mounted  on  a  fine  hor.»e,  without  a  saddle, 
and  scr)uring  bareheaded  over  the  prairies, 
Kit  was  one  of  the  finest  pictures  of  a  horse- 
man I  have  ever  seen.  A  short  time  ena- 
bled him  to  discover  that  the  Indian  war 
party  of  twenty-seven,  consisted  of  si.x  elk, 
who  had  been  gazing  curiously  at  our  cara- 
van as  it  passed  by,  and  were  now  scamper- 
ing off  at  full  speed.  This  was  our  first 
alarm,  and  its  excitement  broke  agreeably 
on  the  monotony  of  the  day.  At  our  noon 
halt,  the  men  were  exercised  at  a  target; 
and  in  the  evening  we  pitched  our  tents  at  a 
Pawnee  enc:im|)inent  of  last  .Inly.  They 
had  apparently  killed  bufHilo  here,  as  many 
bones  were  lying  about,  and  the  frames 
where  the  liiiles  had  been  stretched  were  yet 
slaiiding.  The  road  of  the  day  had  kept 
the  valley,  which  is  sometimes  rich  and  well 
timbr-rcd,  though  the  country  is  generally 
sandy.  Mingled  with  the  usual  plants,  a 
thistle  (carJuus  li:uc6L;rnphiis)  had  for  the 
l.i.-t  day  or  two  made  it.i  appearance    ajia 


10 


CAPT.  FI11:M()NTS  NAUUA'I'IVK, 


[1841 


■long  tlio  river  l)')ttnm,  Inulrxrnnfia  (i  irifiVii-  ' 
frt)  imil  milk   |)lii\t  (iisdejiias  fijriaca*)  in 
Ci>nsi(li'r;ili!('  (|imtititi('s.  ' 

Our  iiiiircli  to-day  had  lipon  twonty-one  ' 
mili'H,  iiimI  till'  iiMtriiiuuiiical  (iliscrviitioiis  I 
pave  lis  H  clirotKiiMi'trio  l<iiif,'itiidt' of  !tS°  'Jil' 
I'J  ',  mid  lutitiidc  MP  -Jd'  50".  We  \wrc 
moviiii;  liirwurd  iit  ci'voii  iiitlic  inori  iiif,  iiiid 
ill  alioiit  tivi"  iiidt's  roiiclii'd  a  tnrk  dI  'Iio 
IJiui',  when'  IIk-  road  Icuvi-s  that  river,  and 
cmnHOsdvcr  to  the  I'lallo.  No  water  was  to 
be  found  ontiie  diviiiin;^  ridne,  and  tliocaskn 
were  lilled,  and  tlie  animals  here  allowed  a 
short  repose.  The  road  led  acrohs  a  liit;li 
and  level  prairie  ridp',  where  were  Imt  lew 
])hints,  and  those  principally  Ihi.-tle  (riiriliiiis 
leur6;j;rajihii!i),  and  a  kind  ol  dwail  artemi- 
Bia.  Aiili'iope  were  seen  rreciiienlly  diiriii;^ 
the  inorniiifj,  which  was  very  stormy. 
S(|ualls  ot  rain,  with  thunder  and  liH;iitnin;j;, 
were  around  lis  in  every  direction  ;  and 
while  wo  were  enveloped  in  one  ot  them,  a 
flash,  which  seemed  to  scorch  our  eyes  as  it 
passed,  struck  in  the  prairie  within  a  lew 
Ininilri-d  feet,  seiidinir  np  a  column  of  dust. 

Crossing    on    the    way    several   I'awnec 
roads  to  the  Arkansas,  v.'e  reached,  in  about 
twenty-one  miles  I'roin  our  halt  on  the  Hlue, 
what  is  called  the  coast  of  the  Neliraska,  or 
Platte  river.     This  had  seemed  in  the  dis- 
tance a  ranire  of  hirrh  and  hrcdien  hills ;  hut 
on  a  nearer  approach  were  found  to  he  ele- 
vations (if  forty  to  si.vty  feet,  into  which  the 
wind  had  worked  the  sand.     They  were  co- 
vered with    the    usual    tine  jfrasses  of  the 
country,  and   hordered  the   eastern  side  of 
the  ridge  on  a  breadth  of  ahoiit  two  inile.s. 
Chanije  of  soil  and  country  appeared  liei^ 
to  have  produced  some  chany;c  in  the  vesje- 
tatiun.     Vacli  were  numerous,  and  all  the 
plants  of  the   refrion  appeared    to   flourish 
amonir  the  warm  hills.     Amoiiir  them  the 
amorjiliii,  in  lull  hloom,  was  remarkable  for 
its    lariro   and    lu.xuriant    purple    clusters. 
From  the  foot  of  the  coast,  a  distance  of  two 
miles  across  the  level  bottom  brought  us  to 
our  encam|)ment  on  the  shore  of  the  river, 
about  twenty  miles  below  the  head  of  Grand 
Island,  which  lay  extended  before  us,  cover- 
ed with  dense  and  heavy  woods.     From  the 
mouth  of  the  Kansas,  accordiiifT  to  our  reck- 
oning, we  had  travelled  three   hundred  and 
twenty-eight  miles  ;  and  the  geological  form- 
ation of   the  country   we  had  passed  over 


*  "Thill  plant  in  very  oilorircroiis,  nnil  In  Camilla 
ehnrina  Ihi!  Iriivi'lliir,  I'spi'iially  wliin  passini;  llirmmh 
WiTiids  in  thp  rvi'iiing.  Thi."  Fii'iirli  llwru  (•al  lliu  tcnilcr 
•hoiita  in  llii>  sprini!,  ns  wd  ilo  asparau'iis.  Tlu^  nativrs 
make  a  diisar  nl'  llie  Hiuvitb.  galhiTini;  tluMii  in  lliu 
Diiirninu  wlii^n  llii'V  arc  covi'iril  wiiii  di'W,  anil  tulli'ct 
tlie  ciillim  I'nmi  lliiir  polls  In  till  lli'ir  beds.  ( iii  arnmiil 
of  the  niiklnoM  iil  lliin  rntiini.  I'arkinsnn  calls  lliu  plant 
Viniinian  t<ilk."—  J.nnilon'.^  KnnjrhiKrdia  of  Plants. 

'I'he  SliMU  Inihins  nf  lliu  IJpprr  I'l.iltu  cat  tin;  yiiiini; 
pods  of  .Ins  plant,  boiling  thi'iii  with  the  uiwit  of  tlie 
bufl'alo. 


cnimistpd  of  lime  and  sandstmie,  covered  liy 
the  i>iiine  erratic  deposite  ol  sand  and  gravil 
which  forms  the  snriitre  rock  of  the  prairies 
hetween  the  Mis.soiiri  and  .Mississippi  riverc, 
l';.\ce|)t  in  some  occasional  liiiieslone  hoiilil- 
ers,  I  had  met  with  no  lossils.  'I'he  ph-vii- 
lion  of  the  I'latti'  valley  nlinM'  the  sea  i' 
here  about  two  tiiousiiiid  trel.  The  astro, 
liomical  ob,«ervations  of  the  iii:'lil  placed  n- 
in   longitude   iW  VS   W\  latitude  -lOo  IT 

or,'. 

./i/;ip  '.'7. — The  animals  were  sr.incwhat 
fatigued  by  their  march  of  yesterday,  am 
after  a  slinrt  journey  of  eigliieni  miles  aloiiji 
the  ri\or  liotloiii,  I  encamped  iie;ir  the  hcai' 
of  (iraiid  island,  in  longitude,  bv  observa- 
tion, fl!!"  O.'/  21'.  liitiiiide  lO"'  3i)'  3-i" 
The  soil  here  was  light  but  rich,  though  ii 
some  places  rather  sandy  ;  and,  with  the  ex 
ce])tion  of  a  scattered  fringe  along  the  bank, 
the  timber,  consisting  principally  of  |mplar 
{)>njmlu>i  miiiilijcnt),  elm,  and  hackberry 
(crliis  mis:  ifiilla),  is  contined  almost  entirely 
to  the  islands. 

Jiitw  2y. — We  halted  to  noon  at  an  open 
reach  of  the  river,  which  occupies  ratliet 
more  than  a  fourth  of  the  valley,  here  only 
iibotit  four  miles  liroiid.     The  camp  had  Inrii 
disposed    with    the    usual    precaution,    tb' 
horses  grazing  at  a  little  distance,  attendii; 
■  by  the  guard,  and  we  were  all  silting  ()iiiet!y 
at  our  dinner  on  the  grass,   when  siiddrii!y 
1  we  heard  the  startling  cry  •' du  momlc  !"     In 
an  instant,  every  mans  weapon  was  in  liif 
hand,  the  liorsos  were  driven  in,  hobbled  ami 
'  picketed,  and   horsemen  were  gallojiing  at 
lull  speed  in  the  direction  of  the  new  comers, 
screaming  and  yelling  with  the  wildest  ex- 
citement.    "  Get  ready,  my  lads  !  "  said  tin 
leader  of  the  approaching  party  to  his  men 
when  our  wild-looking  horsemen  were  dis 
covered  bearing  down  upon  them ;    '   vmi: 
allims  (illrdpcr  des  anijis  ile.  Ixiiruetli:."     Tliry 
proved  to  be  a  small  parly  of  fourteen,  tin.ii  r 
the  charge  of  a  man  named  John  Lee,  nml. 
with  their  baggage  and  provisions  strap; cii 
to  their  hacks,  were  m.-iking  their  way  imi 
foot  to  the  froiilier.     A  brief  account  of  their 
lortunes  will  give  some  idea  of  navijntion  ii; 
the  Nebraska.     Sixty  days  since,  tliey  hai! 
left  the  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  some  threi' 
hundred  miles  above,  in  barges  laden  with 
the   furs   of  the   American  Fur  Company. 
They   started   with  the  annual  flood,   and, 
drawing  but  nine  inches  water,   hoped  in 
tnake  a  speedy  and  prosperous  voyage  to  ^'; 
Louis  ;  but,  after  a  lapse  of  forty  days,  foimii 
themselves   only   one    hundred    and    liiiriy 
miles  from  their  point  of  departure.     'I'lioy 
came  down  rapidly  as  far  as  Scott's  bhii!!-. 
where  their  difficulties  began.     Sometinio7 
they  came  upon  places  where  the  water  wn- 
spread  over  a  great  extent,  and   here  they 
toiled  from  morning  until  night,  endeuvorinjj 


184!1 

todri 

only 

Siiinc 

river, 

und, 

or  tei 

!-»nd: 

tlieir 

and  I 

llie  \ 

lloat 

loth 

iiver 

Icngl 

ilay  I 

i'ipal 

tliirt; 

wcu 

it'W 

.inu( 
itirs 
.een 
•and 
Ired 
iiadi 

)n  ii 
'om 
then 
W 
ibni 
or  t' 
iion 

itOC 

ivas 

jIlOl 

iupi 
us  t 
(ver 
van 
piec 
iron 
new 
eln[ 
hou 
the; 
lian 
foui 
pra: 
of  : 
liac 
Na] 
the 
nar 

ffoi 
ny 
wai 
1  t 
tra' 
i 
figi 
oui 
pre 


IIATIVK. 


[I84i 


I  iif  Mini'  mill  sntiilstono,  covprod  liv 
•  crriitic  (li'|"Hit(>  (il  Mand  iiiiil  (iravil 
Tiii-i  itic  siiriiirp  ruck  of  llit>  prnirir^ 
I  llic  .Mi.x.-oiiri  mill  Mi.i.:i-.si|)|)j  nvcrr. 
ill  ."(Mill'  occiisiiiiml  liiiii>iiiiM'  l)i>ii!i|- 

III  lili't  with  no  ln^^il.^.  'I'ilf  ('l"V,l- 
till-  I'iiitti'  viillcy  iilimc  lli(>  Ht'ii  i' 
lilt    two   tiloll.ilMll    ti'i'l.      Tlio    iistrn. 

olist'rviitiniis  of  till'  iii:'lit  iilncfil  i,- 
itiidn   98°  .15'   .»!»■•,  liilitiiilo  40o  IT 

•J7. — 'I'lip  nniiiiiils  wcTiy  soincwli::! 

Iiv  tlii'ir  iiiiirdi  ol'  yr-tcnliiy,  mi'l, 
fliiirt  joiiriipy  of  i'ij,'liii'i'ii  mili'.s  iilmii' 
r  liotiiiiii,  I  ("iicmii|ii'il  near  the  iicai! 
Ill   islaiiil,   In   l(iin,'itiiilr,   liy  olisorva- 

'   V')'  21'.    lafitiiili'    l()"'  3!f   32" 

liorc  was  liu'lit  liiit  rii'li,  tlioiijjji  in 
laros  rather  (■aiicly  ;  ami,  w  illi  tlie  o\- 
ol' a  scattered  tViiii;e  aluliu'  the  liaiik. 
lier,  c'linsistiiii;  |iriiK'i|ially  of  |)o|)lar 
ts  inoiiililmt),  elm,  and  liacklierry 
nis:  ifiilid),  \ti  coTitiiiod  1^1  most  ciitireiy 
slniids. 

'2S. — We  lialtrd  to  noon  at  an  npeii 
of  till'  river,  wliicli  occnpios  ratliei 
lan  a  fourth  of  the  valley,  here  oiilj 
oiirniiles  liroad.  'I'lic  camp  had  l»  in 
d  witli  the  iiciial  precatilion,  tl.i 
j;razin<r  at  a  little  di.-^lancp,  atteiidcii 
ifiiard,  and  we  were  all  siltinjj  ipiietlv 
dinner  on  the  grass,  when  suddenly 
ltd  thestartlinijcry  '' du  mundi: .'"  In 
ant,  every  man's  weapon  was  in  hi? 
ho  horses  svoro  driven  in,  iiobbled  ami 
hI,  and  horsemen  were  gallopiiiir  a; 
>ed  in  the  direction  of  the  new  comers, 
liiiir  and  yelling  with  the  wildest  ex- 
lit.  "Get  really,  my  lads!  "  said  thi 
of  the  approacliinij  party  to  his  men 
:)iir  wild-lool-iiiif,'  horsemen  were  dis 
d  bearinij  down  upon  tliein ;  '  vmi: 
iitlrtijii-r  (IfS  coiijis  lie  hiiiriielti;."  'I'liev 
to  he  a  small  party  of  fourteen,  iiiwii  r 
irgc  of  a  man  named  John  I^ce,  am 
leir  Imcfgaije  and  provisions  .strap; cu 
ir  hacks,  were  m.ikiiiir  their  way  ii 
the  frontier.  A  brief  account  of  tlicir 
^s  will  give  some  idea  of  navication  ii 
diraska.  Si.xty  days  since,  they  liii'' 
?  mouth  of  Laramie's  fork,  some  Ibn 
'd  miles  above,  in  barfires  laden  with 
TS  of  the  American  Fur  Companv. 
.started  with  the  annual  flood,  ami 
ig  but  nino  inches  water,  hoped  in 
1  Fpecdy  and  prosperous  voyage  to  !:•'; 
;  but,  after  a  lapse  of  forty  days,  foumi 
dves  only  one  hundred  and  tiiiriy 
from  their  point  of  departure.  They 
down  rajiidly  as  far  as  Scott's  bliiiK-, 
their  difTiciiltie.s  bepan.  Sometiiiii- 
ime  upon  places  where  the  water  wa,- 
over  a  preat  extent,  and  liere  they 
from  morniiin;  until  iiiglii,  endeuvoriu{; 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FUK.MONTS  NARR.VTIVK. 


11 


to  drng  tlicir  boat  tlirongli  the  ^amU,  making 
only  two  or  three  miles  in  as  many  days. 
SoinetiincM  they  would  enter  an  arm  ol  the 
river,  where  there  apprareil  ii  line  channel, 
mid,  after  desceiWiiiir  prosperoiiHly  fur  eight 
or  ten  miles,  would  come  suddenly  upon  dry 
•amis,  and  be  cuinpelleii  to  return,  dragging 
ttieir  iKiat  for  days  against  the  rapid  ciirriiit  ; 
and  at  others,  they  came  upon  places  where 
the  water  lay  in  boles,  and,  getting  out  to 
lliiat  olV  their  biiat,  would  fall  into  water  up 
to  their  necks,  and  the  ne.xt  inoiiient  tumble 
iiver  against  a  sandbai  Discouraged,  at 
li'iigtli,  and  liiiding  the  I'latte  growing  every 
iliiy  more  Mhallow,  they  discharged  the  prin- 
cipal part  ol  tiieir  cargoes  one  hundred  and 
lliirty  miles  below  Fort  Laramie,  which  they 
secured  as  well  as  possible,  and,  leaving  u 
finv  men  to  guard  tbeiii,  attetn|)ted  to  coii- 
imie  their  voyage,  laden  with  some  light 
!iirs  and  their  personal  baggage.  Alter  iit- 
.cen  or  twenty  days  iiinre  struggling  in  the 
ianils,  during  which  they  made  but  one  hiin- 
Ired  and  forty  miles,  they  sunk  their  barges, 
iiade  a  aichc  of  their  remaining  furs  and 
proiwrty,  in  trees  on  the  bank,  and,  packing 
yn  ills  back  what  each  man  could  carry,  hail 
•uminenced,  the  day  before  we  encountered 
them,  their  journey  on  foot  to  ."^t.  l.ouis. 

Wo  langlied  then  at  their  forlorn  and  vag- 
ibond  appearance,  and,  in  our  turn,  a  month 
or  two  alterwards,  furnisiied  the  .«amo  occa- 
iion  for  merriment  to  others.  Even  their 
•tock  of  tobacco,  that  sine  qud  nnn  of  a  wtj- 
i'^eur,  without  which  the  night  tire  i.s  gloomy, 
.vas  entirely  e.xhaiisted.  However,  we 
ihortenod  their  homeward  journey  by  a  small 
supply  from  our  own  provision.  They  gave 
us  the  welcome  intelligence  that  the  bulf'alo 
were  abundant  some  two  days'  march  in  ad- 
vance, and  made  us  a  present  of  some  choice 
pieces,  which  were  a  very  acceptable  change 
from  our  salt  pork.  In  the  interchange  of 
news,  and  the  renewal  of  old  actjuaintancc- 
sliips,  we  found  wherewithal  to  til!  a  busy 
hour ;  then  we  mounted  our  horses,  and 
they  shouldered  their  packs,  and  wo  shook 
hands  and  parted.  Among  them,  I  had 
found  an  old  companion  on  the  northern 
prairie,  a  hardened  and  hardly  served  veteran 
of  the  mountains,  who  liad  been  as  much 
hacked  and  scarred  as  an  old  moustache  of 
Napoleon's  "old  guard."  lie  flourished  in 
the  sobriquet  of  La  Tulipe,  and  his  real 
name  I  never  knew.  Finding  that  he  was 
going  to  the  States  only  because  his  compa- 
ny was  bound  in  that  direction,  and  that  he 
was  rather  more  willing  to  return  with  me, 
1  took  him  again  into  my  service.  We 
(ravelled  this  day  but  seventeen  miles. 

At  our  evening  camp,  about  sunset,  three 
figures  were  discovered  approaching,  which 
our  glasses  made  out  to  be  Indians.  They 
proved  to  bo  Clicyennea — tvnj  men,  and  a 


Ixiy  of  thirteen.  .Mimit  a  inoiilli  Kinco,  llipy 
had  lett  their  people  nii  the  south  lurk  of  tliP 
river,  .some  three  huinlred  miles  to  the  west- 
ward, mid  a  party  of  only  lour  in  number 
had  been  to  the  Pawnee  villages  on  a  borsi'- 
sti'aling  excursion,  troin  which  they  were 
retiiriiiiig  unsuccessful.  They  were  miser- 
ably niiiiiiited  on  wild  liorM's  Iroiii  the  ,\rk« 
ansas  plains,  and  had  tin  other  weapons  than 
bows  mid  long  s|)ears;  mid  had  they  be'Ml 
discovered  by  the  I'awnees,  cmild  not,  by 
any  possibility,  have  escaped.  They  were 
uinrtilied  by  their  ill  success,  and  said  the 
Pawnees  were  cowards,  who  shut  up  their 
horses  in  their  lodt;es  at  night.  I  invited 
them  to  sii|iper  with  me,  and  liiiiidol|ili  and 
the  yiiiiiig  Cheyenne,  who  had  been  eyeing 
each  other  snspiciiuisly  and  curiously,'  soon 
becaiiie  intimate  trienils.  .Mter  supjier,  wo 
sat  down  on  the  grass,  and  I  placed  a  sheet 
of  paper  between  us,  on  which  they  traced 
rudely,  but  willi  a  certain  degree  of  relative 
truth,  the  watercourses  of  the  country  which 
lay  between  us  and  their  villages,  mid  of 
which  I  desired  to  have  some  in'i  riiiation. 
Their  companions,  tliey  told  us,  li  taken  a 
nearer  route  over  ti.e  hills;  but  li.ey  liad 
mounted  one  ot  the  summits  to  sjiy  out  tlic 
country,  whence  they  had  caught  a  glimp.so 
of  our  party,  and,  coiitident  of  good  treat- 
ment at  the  bauds  of  thi;  whites,  hastened  to 
join  coinj)aiiy.  iiatitiulo  of  the  camp  40" 
39' .'jl". 

We  made  the  next  morning  si.xteen  niiles. 
I  remarked  that  the  tiroiind  was  covered  in 
many  [ilaces  with  an  ellloresceiice  of  salt, 
and  the  |ilant.s  were  not  numerous.  In  the 
bottoms  were  rrci|ueii*ly  seen  Iniilescanlia, 
anil  on  the  dry  Icnches  were  curdiiiis,  ciclus, 
and  (HHDrpha.  A  high  wind  during  the 
morning  had  increased  to  a  violent  gale  from 
the  north  west,  which  made  our  atternoon 
ride  cold  and  unpleasant.  Wo  had  the  wel- 
come sight  of  two  biitliiloes  on  one  of  the 
largo  islands,  and  encmiipod  at  a  clump  of 
timber  about  seven  miles  from  our  noon  halt, 
after  a  day'.s  march  of  twenty-two  miles. 

The  air  was  keen  the  next  morning  at 
sunrise,  the  therniometer  standing  at  44°, 
and  it  was  sulliciently  cold  to  make  over- 
coats very  comfortable.  A  few  miles  brought 
us  into  the  midst  of  the  biitliilo,  swarming 
in  immense  numbers  over  the  plains,  where 
they  bad  left  scarcely  a  blade  of  grass  stand- 
ing. Mr.  Preuss,  who  was  sketching  at  a 
little  distance  in  t'  ear,  had  at  lirst  noted 
them  as  large  gro\es  of  timber.  In  the 
sight  of  such  a  mass  of  life,  the  traveller 
feels  a  strange  emotion  of  grandeur.  We 
had  heard  from  a  distance  a  dull  and  con- 
fused miirmiirirg,  and,  when  we  came  in 
view  of  their  dark  masses,  there  was  not  one 
among  us  who  did  not  feel  his  heart  beat 
quicker.    It  was  tlie  early  part  of  tiie  day, 


Ifl 


CAl'T.  FIli:.M()NT\S  NAUUATIVK, 


[181J 


whrii  tliP  liorilH  ore  fi'ivl.D^r ;  nml  ovnry- 
wlicri'  tlii'v  \\>'Tr  ill  moliiiii.  I  lore  timl  iIhtc 
a  liii;;!.  iild  liiill  wan  ri'llii)(|  in  \Ue  ^^rans,  niul 
rldiiili  ol  (lii.-t  ruse  in  tlic  iiir  from  vnrioiiM 
(iiirt"  1)1  till"  liiiiiiN.  ciu'li  till*  Hccnn  of  foiiic 
Diihliiiati'  ti^rli''  liiiliaiiN  and  liiitlitlo  tnakc 
the  pootry  and  lilc  ol  tli(<  prairie,  iiiid  cjur 
niiiip  was  lull  o!  their  ('.vliiiaratioii.  In  piarc 
of  the  (|uii'i  iiKMiDtdiiy  of  the  niarcli,  relieved 
only  l)y  the  cracking'  of  the  whip,  and  an 


"aniiiri'   ilimr !    inl'iinl  lA-    lidin 


HllOlltN 


mill  honrrs  resoiiniled  Iriiiii  every  jiiirt  of  the 
line,  and  our  evening;  ciiinp  was  alwayn  the 
coininencemeiit  of  a  fea>t,  whicii  teriniiiated 
•»ily  with  our  ileparliite  on  the  Inljowiiif,' 
moriiin;.'.  At  any  time  of  the  ni(;ht  inijjht 
bo  ween  pieees  o!  the  most  delirate  and 
ciiiiii'est  meat,  roast injr  in  ajipola^i,  on  sticks 
around  the  lire,  and  the  ^.'iiard  were  never 
without  ('om|)any.  Willi  pleasant  weather 
and  no  eni'iiiy  to  fear,  I'li  ahiiniianee  of  the 
most  excellent  meat,  ami  no  scarcity  of 
bread  or  tobacco,  they  were  enjoyin;^  'be 
oasis  of  a  voyai/eiir's  life,  'i'liree  cows  were 
killed  to-day.  Kit  Car-on  had  shot  one,  and 
was  coiiliniiiiij.r  the  chase  in  the  midst  of 
imolher  herd,  w  hen  his  horse  fell  lieiidlon;.', 
but  spranj;  ii|)  and  joined  the  llyin;;  band. 
'riiHMi^h  coiisiilerahly  hurt,  be  bad  the  l'ooiI 
fortune  to  break  no  lones;  and  .Maxwell, 
who  was  mounted  on  a  lleet  hunter,  cap- 
tured the  runaway  alter  a  bard  chase,  lie 
Was  on  the  point  of  slio(itiii!f  him,  to  avoid 
the  loss  of  bis  bridle,  (a  banilsomely  mount- 
ed Spanish  one),  when  he  found  that  bis 
burse  was  able  to  come  up  with  him.  Ani- 
mals are  freipiently  lost  in  tbi.«  way  ;  and  it 
i.s  necessary  to  keep  close  watch  over  them, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Imlliilo,  in  the  midst  of 
which  they  scour  oil' to  the  ])laiiis,  and  are 
rarely  relaken.  (ino  of  our  mules  took  a 
sudden  freak  into  bis  bead,  and  joined  a 
neij;bborin;j  band  to-day.  As  we  were  not 
in  a  condition  to  lose  horses,  1  sent  several 
men  in  imrsuil,  ami  remained  in  camp,  in 
the  hope  of  recoveriii;,'  him ;  but  lost  the 
afternoon  to  no  jiurpi'.-e,  ;is  wi>  did  not  sec 
liiin  ai,aiin.  Astninoinical  observations 
placed  us  in  lon<ritiide  lUOo  05' -17",  latitude 
40°  49'  55". 

July  1. — .\lonf:f  our  road  to-day  the  prairie 
bottom  was  more  elevated  and  dry,  and  the 
bills  which  border  the  rii:ht  side  of  the  river 
higher,  and  more  bruken  and  jiictiiresqiie  in 
th.e  outline.  The  country,  too,  was  better 
limhered.  As  we  were  riilinir  quietly  alonij 
the  bank,  a  ;rraiid  herd  of  bnllUlo,  some  seven 
or  ei^'ht  hundred  in  number,  came  crowding 
up  from  the  river,  where  they  bad  been  tu 
drink,  and  commenced  crossing  the  plain 
flowly,  eating  as  th'\v  went.  The  wind  was 
favoral)le ;  the  coolness  of  Ibo  morning  in- 
vited to  exeriiise  ;  the  ground  was  apparently 
gowl,  and  llie  dittance  uijross  the  prairie  (two 


or  tiiroo  inilp«)  gave  im  a  (mn  opportunity  to 
(  harce  them  iH'lore  they  could  i;el  amoli|{tlif 
river  hill  •.  It  was  Ino  line  a  prospect  lor  a 
cbast)  to  Im«  lost  ;  and,  haltiiiif  lor  ii  few  nm. 
meiiti',  the  hunters  were  bri>u;,'ht  iin  riiid  wtii- 
tiled,  and  Kit  ( 'arson.  Maxwell,  and  l,iita't(i) 
toy;elber.  'i'liiy  were  now  iiomewbat  lem 
than  half  a  mile  ili.-tiint,  anil  we  rode  eaHJly 
along  nnlil  within  iibout  three  hundred  yanl.s 
when  a  hiidden  n;,'ltalinn,  a  wavering  ill  the 
hand,  and  a  ^allnpinir  to  and  Iro  of  Bonw 
which  were  scattered  along  the  skirtH,  gavi' 
IIS  the  intimation  that  we  were  discovereil 
We  started  together  at  a  band  gallo|),  ridiiij; 
steadily  abreast  of  each  other,  and  liert>  tlir 
interest  of  the  chase  became  so  enifroHsingly 
intense, that  wo  were  sensible  to  nothing  else, 
We  were  now  dosing  u|ion  them  rapidly,  aiul 
the  front  of  the  mas.s  was  already  in  rapid 
motion  for  the  hills,  and  in  a  few  seconds  the 
movement  had  cunimiinicated  itself  to  the 
whole  herd. 

A  crowd  of  bulls,  as  usual,  brought  up  tiii> 
rear,  and  every  mow  and  then  somi'  of  them 
faced  about,  and  then  ila-hid  on  after  the 
hand  a  short  distaiue,  anil  lurnid  and  lookcil 
again,  as  if  ir.ore  than  half  inclined  to  Htanil 
and  light.  In  a  lew  moments,  bowevrr,  du- 
ring which  we  li^il  been  i|iiickeningour  i)ace. 
the  rout  was  universal,  and  we  were  goiiif,' 
over  the  ground  like  a  hiirricaiio.  When  at 
about  thirty  yards  we  gave  the  usual  shout 
(the  hunter's  yns  dr  rluinif),  tt"d  broke  into 
the  herd.  We  entered  on  the  side,  the  mass 
giving  way  in  every  direction  in  their  heed- 
less course.  Many  of  the  bulls,  less  active 
and  les.s  lleet  than  the  cows,  paying  no  at- 
tention to  the  ground,  and  occupied  solely 
with  the  buntcr,were  precipitated  to  the  CHrth 
with  great  force,  rolling  over  and  over  with 
the  violence  of  the  shock,  and  hardly  dis- 
tinguishable in  the  du>l.  Wo  separated  on 
entering,  each  singling  out  his  game. 

My  horse  was  a  trained  hunter,  famous  in 
the  west  under  the  name  of  I'rovcau,  ar.il, 
witii  bis  eyes  llashing,  and  the  foam  ilyin;; 
from  his  moiilb,  sprang  on  after  the  cow  like 
a  tiger.  In  a  lew  moments  be  brought  me 
alongside  of  her,  and  rising  in  the  stirrups,  I 
fired  at  the  distance  of  a  yard,tlie  ball  enter- 
ing at  the  termination  of  the  long  hair,  anil 
passing  near  the  heart.  iSbe  fell  headlong 
at  the  rejiort  of  the  gun,  and,  checking  my 
horse,  I  looked  around  for  my  companions. 
At  a  little  distance.  Kit  was  on  tlie  ground, 
engaged  in  tying  his  iiorsc  to  the  horns  of 
a  cow  wiiii'b  be  was  preparing  to  cut  r,p. 
Among  the  scattered  bands,  at  some  distance 
below,  I  caught  a  glimjiso  of  Maxwell ;  and 
while  I  was  looking,  a  light  wreath  of  white 
smoke  curled  away  from  bis  gun,  from  which 
I  was  too  far  to  bear  the  report.  Nearer, 
and  between  me  and  the  hills,  towards  which 
they  were  directing  their  cour=e,  waa  Ui» 


InvE 


[1813 


I'h)  1,'avf  UN  a  (iiip  opportiinilv  M 
lit'lorc  tlicy  coiilil  jji't  iiiiii)ii(;lli^ 
It  was  iiiii  line  II  |ir(iH|)i'('t  lor  a 

lii-i  ;  mill,  liiillinj,'  lur  ii  fi'w  im 

JiilitiTs  were  liroii^'lil.  iiii  r.iid  huiI- 

(l  <'iir.-(iii,  Miixwcll.iinil  l.nla-lcd 

'licy  wiTi-  iimv  FdiiK'wImt  Irsi 
|iiiili'  ill>Miiil,  Mini  \M>  riiilc  faNilv 

illilii  iiiiiiiit  tlirn-  liMiiilrt'iJ  ynnl.", 

Icii  iii;itnliiiii.  11  wiivcrjii;,'  ill  llic 
|i  ^'iilli>|iliiir  III  mill   IVd  (if  eiinie 

HCIltllTCll  lilnll^r   llio  i^kirtH,    J,'IlVi' 

hiiilinii  tliiil  wf  were  (li«ciivorril 
Itnm'tlicr  at  ii  IiiiikI  ^'all(i[),  ridiii;; 
|i'a>t  (il  ciicli  iitli(-r,  iiikI  Ihtc  ilir 
111' clia.-^c  in'caini'  mi  t'mrroH.siii);!; 

uc  were  M'lisihli'  In  iiiilliin;^j>lM'. 
iw  (■|ii.''iiij,' ii|inn  tlii'iii  ra|iiilly,  aiiil 

llic  muss  was  already  in  rnpid 
III'  hills,  and  in  ii  I'l'w  ht'coiids  tlic 
liad  cuniniiinicati'd  itself  to  tlir 

(if  bulls,  as  iisiinl,  brninrht  up  the 
cry  'inw  and  tln'n  soiir*  (if  tliem 
t,  mid  llicn  (laslird  on  aftor  tlir 
tdistiuni',  iiiiil  tiniii'il  and  lookcil 
n.nri'  lli:in  lialf  inclined  to  8taiiil 
111  a  lew  inoiiii'iils,  liowevcr,  da- 
we  lud  lieen  i|iiickenin;;our  pKCC. 
IS  niiivi-r.-al,  and  we  were  Roinf; 
oiiiiil  like  a  liiirriLuno.  When  al 
'  yards,  we  ;;ave  the  iiHiial  shout 
's  /K/s  (/('  rliiirf^''),  and  broke  into 
We  entered  on  the  side,  the  mass 
'  in  every  dircclion  in  their  lieoil- 
.  Aliiiiy  of  the  bulls,  less  active 
:'ct  tlian  the  cows,  payinff  no  at- 
the  ffround,  and  occupied  solely 
liter, were  precipitated  lo  the  earth 
force,  rollini,'  over  and  over  witli 
e  of  the  slunk,  and  hardly  dis- 
e  in  the  dii.-t.  Wc  separated  on 
icli  Hinirlinj,'  out  hisparne. 
3  was  a  trained  hnnter,  famous  in 
inder  the  name  of  Provean,  ar:il, 
>es  llashinir,  and  the  foam  llyint; 
:)ulli,  spran^r  on  after  the  cow  like 
1  a  lew  inoineiits  he  brought  mo 
f  her,  and  risiiijj  in  the  stirrups,  I 
distance  of  a  yard,  the  ball  enter- 
crmiiiatioii  of  the  lonnr  hair,  and 
ir  the  heart,  She  fell  hcaiilong 
rt  of  the  fTiin,  and,  checking  my 
iked  around  lor  my  companions, 
distance,  Kit  was  on  the  groimd, 
tying  his  iiorsc  to  the  liorns  of 
■Il  he  was  preparing  to  cut  up. 
scattered  bands,  at  some  distance 
light  a  glimpse  of  Ma.vwell ;  and 
1  looking,  a  light  wreath  of  white 
'd  away  from  his  gun,  from  whicli 
far  to  hear  the  report.  Nearer, 
n  mo  and  the  hills,  towards  which 
directing:  their  course,  waa  ili» 


1843.] 


CAPT.  FUHMONTS  \AIIII.\  TlVr.. 


IS 


\toAy  of  tli0  herd,  nnd,  Kivin)(  my  liomn  tlin 
n>iii,  we  diirfhed  alter  them.  A  thick  cloud 
of  dust  hung  upon  their  rear,  which  lilled 
my  mouth  and  eyes,  and  nearly  Hiuothered 
inc.  Ill  the  niidHt  of  tlii.t  I  coiilil  Nce  nolliing, 
mil  .he  liiilFilo  were  not  distingiiishalile  until 
ivithin  thirty  feet.  They  crowded  together 
more  densely  Ntill  as  1  came  upon  them,  and 
rushed  along  in  Hiiclia  compact  liiHly,  that  I 
•mild  not  olitain  an  entranie — the  horse  al- 
ino«t  leaping  upon  tlieiii.  In  a  lew  niomentH 
liio  masn  ilivided  to  the  right  and  left,  the 
hiiriiH  clattering  wiili  a  noise  heard  above 
everything  else,  and  my  horse  darted  into 
the  ojiening.  l''ive  or  si.t  bulls  charged  on 
un  as  wo  (l.ished  along  the  line,  but  were  left 
fir  k'hind  ;  and,  Hingling  out  a  cow,  I  gave 
her  my  (ire,  but  Htriick  too  high.  She  gave 
1  tremenilouM  leap,  and  scoured  on  swifter 
than  before.  I  reined  up  my  horse,  and  the 
band  swept  on  like  a  torrent,  and  left  the 
place  quiet  a  id  clear.  Our  chase  had  led  ii.s 
iiilo  dangerous  ground.  A  jirairie  dog-vil- 
ige,  so  tiiickly  settled  that  there  were  three 
or  four  holes  in  every  twenty  yards  siiuare, 
occupied  the  whole  bottom  for  nearly  two 
miles  in  length.  Looking  around,  I  saw  only 
one  of  the  hunters,  nearly  out  of  sight,  and 
the  long  dark  line  of  our  caravan  crawling 
along,  three  or  four  miles  distant.  Alter  a 
march  of  twenty-lour  miles,  we  encamped  at 
nightfall,  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  lower 
end  of  Brady's  island.  The  breadth  of  this 
arm  of  the  river  was  eight  hundred  and 
eighty  yards,  and  the  water  nowhere  two 
feet  in  (lepth.  The  island  bears  the  name  of 
a  man  killed  on  this  spot  some  years  ago. 
His  party  had  encamped  here,  three  in  com- 
lany.  and  one  of  the  number  went  oil"  to  hunt, 
eavi':g  Brady  and  his  companion  together. 
These  two  had  fretpiently  (jiiarrelled,  and  on 
the  hunter's  return  he  found  Brady  dead,  and 
waa  told  that  he  had  shot  himself  accident- 
ally, lie  was  buried  here  on  the  bank  ;  but, 
as  UEual,  the  wolves  had  torn  him  out,  and 
some  human  bones  that  were  lying  on  the 
ground  we  aupiwsed  were  his.  Troops  of 
wolves,  that  were  hanging  on  the  skirts  of 
the  buffalo,  kept  up  an  uninterrupted  howling 
during  the  night,  venturing  almost  into  camp. 
In  the  morning,  they  were  sitting  at  a  short 
distance,  barking,  and  impatiently  wailing 
our  departure,  to  fall  upon  the  bones. 

Ju/y  2. — Thomoriiipgwa-  ,;ool  and  smoky. 
Our  road  led  closer  to  the  hills,  which  hero 
increased  in  elevation,  presenting  an  outline 
of  conical  peaks  three  hundred  to  tivo  hun- 
dred feet  high.  Some  timber,  apparently 
pine,  grows  in  the  ravines,  and  streaks 
of  clay  or  sand  whiten  their  slopes.  We 
crossed  during  the  morning  a  number  of  hol- 
lows, timbered  principally  with  bo.v  elder 
{aeer  negnndo),  poplar  and  elm.  Brady's 
iaand  is  well  wooded,  and  all  the  river  along 


which  our  road  led  to-day  may.  in  genortl, 
lie  called  tidcriilily  well  (iiiiU'red.  \V(>  paxiu 
I'd  near  an  ('liiaiu|iiiieiit  ot  the  Oregon  em*, 
grants,  where  they  appeared  to  have  reponed 
several  dayn.  A  variety  ot  lioiisehold  arti« 
cles  were  scattered  alioiit,  iiml  they  had  pro- 
liilily  disburdened  llieiii>elveH  here  of  many 
things  not  absolutely  necesniry.  I  had  lelt 
the  usual  road  U'lore  the  mid-day  halt,  iiiul 
in  the  afternoon,  having  i*ent  several  men  in 
advance  to  reconnoitre,  mirclied  diieitly  tor 
the  mouth  of  the  South  Inrk.  On  our  arrU 
val,  the  horsemen  were  sent  in  and  scattered 
about  the  river  to  search  the  best  fording 
places,  and  the  carts  followed  iiiiiiiediately. 
riiu  stream  is  here  ilivided  by  an  island  into 
two  channels,  'i'lie  sout  hern  is  lour  hundred 
and  lilty  fin't  wide,  having  eighteen  or  twenty 
inches  water  in  the  deepest  places.  With 
the  exception  of  a  few  drv  iiars,  the  bed  of 
the  river  is  generally  ipiiiksaiids,  in  which 
the  carts  began  to  sink  rapidly  so  soon  an 
llie  mules  halted,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to 
keep  them  constantly  in  motion. 

The  northern  channel,  two  llioiisnnd  two 
hundred  and  lilty  fei't  wide,  was  somewhat 
deeper,  having  freipiently  three  feet  water  in 
the  numerous  Ninall  channels,  with  a  bed  of 
coarsi!  gravel.  The  whole  breadth  of  tho 
.Vebraska,  immedialely  below  the  pinction,  ia 
live  thousand  three  hundred  and  lifty  feet. 
.Ml  our  eiiuipago  had  reached  the  left  bank 
safely  at  (i  o'clock,  having  to-day  made  twenty 
miles.  Wo  encaiiiped  at  tho  point  of  land 
immediately  at  the  junction  of  the  North  and 
South  forks.  Between  the  streams  is  a  low 
rich  prairie,  extending  from  their  contlu>?nce 
eighteen  miles  westwardly  to  the  bordering 
hills,  when;  it  is  live  and  a  half  miles  wide. 
It  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass, 
and  along  tho  banks  is  a  slight  and  scaltercd 
fringe  of  Cottonwood  and  vvillow.  In  tho 
biitliilo  trails  and  wallows,  I  remarked  jalino 
elllorescences,  to  which  a  rapid  evaporation 
in  the  great  heat  of  the  sun  probably  contri- 
butes, as  the  soil  is  entirely  unprotected  by 
timber.  In  the  vicinity  of  these  places  there 
was  a  bluish  grass,  which  the  cattle  refuse 
to  eat,  called  by  the  voyagours"  herhe  saUn" 
(salt  grass).  The  latitude  of  the  junction  ia 
41"  Ot"  47",  and  longitude,  by  chronometer 
and  lunar  distances,  100°  49'  43".  The  ele- 
vation above  the  sea  is  about  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  feet.  The  hunters  came  in 
with  a  fat  cow ;  and,  as  we  had  lalwred  hard, 
we  enjoyed  well  a  supper  of  roa.«ted  ribs  and 
boudins,  the  chef-d'auvre  of  a  prairie  cook. 
Mosquitoes  thronged  about  us  this  evening  ; 
but,  by  10  o'clock,  when  the  thermometer  had 
fallen  to  47°,  they  had  all  disappeared. 

July  3. — As  this  was  to  bo  a  point  in  our 
homeward  journey,  I  made  a  cache  (a  term 
used  in  all  this  country  for  what  is  hidden  ia 
the  ground)  of  a  barrel  of  jiork.     It  was  imp 


14 


CAPT.  FRE.MONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1842. 


possible  to  conceal  such  a  prococtlinjj  fnmi 
the  shar|)  eyes  of  our  Clieyoiitio  coni|)atiioii!i, 
and  I  tlierploro  told  them  to  co  and  sec  wiiat 
it  was  tliey  were  burying.  Tiiey  would  oth- 
erwise have  not  failed  to  return  and  destroy 
our  cache  in  expectation  of  some  rich  booty, 
but  pork  tliey  dislike,  and  never  cat.  We 
left  oui  camp  at  9,  continuinir  up  the  Soutli 
fork,  the  pr.iirio  bottom  alVording  us  a  fair 
road  ;  but  in  tlic  long  grass  we  roused  myri- 
ads of  mos(iuitoes  and  flies,  from  which  our 
liorses  sulIL'rod  severely.  Tiio  day  was 
smoky,  with  a  [)leasarit  breeze  from  the  south, 
and  the  plains  on  the  opposite  side  were  co- 
vered with  bnlliilo.  Having  travelled  twenty- 
five  miles,  we  encamped  at  G  in  the  evening ; 
and  the  men  were  sent  across  the  river  lor 
wood,  as  there  is  none  hero  on  the  left  bank. 
Our  tires  were  partially  ma<le  of  the  liois  da 
vache,  the  drj"-  excrement  of  the  bullalo, 
which,  like  that  ol  the  camel  in  the  Arabian 
deserts,  furnishes  to  the  traveller  a  very  good 
substitute  for  wood,  burning  like  turf. 
Wolves  in  great  numbers  surrounded  us 
during  the  night,  crossing  and  rccrossing 
from  the  opposite  herds  to  our  camp,  aiui 
howling  and  trotting  about  in  the  river  until 
morning. 

July  4. — The  morning  was  very  smoky, 
the  sun  shining  dimly  and  red,  a.s  in  a  thick 
fog.  The  camp  was  roused  with  a  salute  at 
daybreak,  and  fro'i  our  scanty  store  a  portion 
of  what  our  Indian  friends  called  the  "  red 
fire  water"  served  out  to  the  men.  While 
we  were  at  breakfast,  a  bulFalo  calf  broke 
through  the  camp,  followed  by  a  couple  of 
wolves.  In  its  fright,  it  had  probably  mis- 
taken U.S  for  a  band  of  bufllilo.  Tlie  wolves 
were  obliged  to  make  a  circuit  around  the 
camp,  so  that  the  calf  got  a  little  the  start, 
and  strained  every  nerve  to  reach  a  large 
herd  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  about  two  miles 
distant ;  but  first  one,  and  then  another,  and 
another  wolf  joined  in  the  chase,  until  his 
pursuers  amounted  to  twenty  or  thirty,  and 
tliey  ran  him  down  before  he  could  reacli  liis 
friends.  There  were  a  few  bulls  near  the 
place,  and  one  of  them  attacked  the  wolves, 
and  tried  to  rescue  him ;  but  was  driven  ofV 
immediately,  and  the  little  animal  fell  an 
easy  prey,  half  devoured  before  lie  was  dead. 
We  watched  the  chase  with  the  interest  al- 
ways felt  for  tlie  weak;  and  had  there  been 
a  saddled  horse  at  hand,  he  would  nave  fared 
better.  Ijcaviug  camp,  our  road  soon  ap- 
proached the  hills,  in  which  strata  of  a  marl 
like  iiiat  of  the  Chimney  rock,  hereafter  de- 
scribed, make  their  appearance.  It  is  proba- 
bly of  this  rock  that  the  hills  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  I'latte,  a  little  below  the  junction, 
are  ccrr.posed,  aed  which  are  worked  by  the 
winds  and  rains  into  sharp  peaks  and  cones, 
giving  them,  in  contrast  to  the  surrounding 
level  region,  something  of  a  picturesque  ap- 


pearance. Wo  crossed  this  morning  nume- 
rous beds  of  the  small  creeks  which,  in  the 
time  of  rains  and  melting  snow,  pour  down 
from  the  ridge,  bringing  down  willi  tliem  al- 
ways great  iiuantitics  of  sand  and  gravel, 
which  have  gradually  raised  their  beds  four 
to  ten  leet  above  the  level  of  the  jirairie, 
which  they  cross,  making  'ach  one  of  tl  c;r. 
a  miniature  Po.  Raised  in  this  way  above 
the  surrouiiiliug  prairie,  without  any  bank, 
the  long  yllow  and  winding  line  of  tlicii 
beds  resemliles  a  causeway  from  the  hills  to 
the  river.  Many  spots  on  the  prairie  are 
yellow  with  siintlo    er  (In'tianilnis). 

As  we  were  riding  slowly  along  this  after- 
noon, clouds  of  dust  in  the  ravines,  amonj; 
the  hills  to  the  righ!,  suddenly  attracted  our 
attention,  and  in  a  lew  minutes  column  after 
column  of  buffalo  came  galloping  down, 
making  directly  to  the  river.  liy  the  time 
the  leading  herds  had  reached  the  water,  tlie 
prairie  was  darkened  with  the  dense  masses. 
Immediately  before  us,  when  the  bands  firi.1 
came  down  into  the  valley  stretched  an  mi- 
broken  line,  the  head  of  which  was  lost 
among  the  river  hills  on  the  opposite  side ; 
and  still  they  poured  down  from  the  ridge  on 
our  right.  i'Vom  hill  to  hill,  the  prairie  bot- 
tom was  certainly  not  less  than  two  miles 
wide;  and,  allowing  the  animals  to  be  ten 
feet  apart,  and  only  ten  in  a  line,  there  were 
already  eleven  thousand  in  view.  Some 
idea  may  thus  be  formed  of  their  number 
when  they  had  occupied  the  whole  plain. 
In  a  short  time  they  surrounded  us  on  every 
side;  extending  for  several  miles  in  the  rear, 
and  forward  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach ; 
leaving  around  us,  as  we  advanced,  an  open 
space  of  only  two  or  three  hundred  yards. 
This  movement  of  the  buffalo  indicated  to 
us  the  presence  of  Indians  on  the  north 
fork. 

I  halted  earlier  than  usual,  about  forty 
miles  from  the  junction,  and  all  hands  were 
soon  busily  engaged  in  preparing  a  feast  to 
celebrate  the  day.  The  kindness  of  our 
friends  at  St.  Louis  had  provided  ns  with  a 
large  supply  of  excellent  preserves  and  rich 
fruit  cake  ;  and  when  these  were  added  to  a 
maccaroni  soup,  am!  variously  prepared  dish- 
es of  the  cboice^i  ouflalo  meat,  crowned 
with  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  enjoyed  with  prai- 
rie appetite,  we  felt,  as  we  sat  in  barbaric 
luxury  around  our  smoking  supfier  on  the 
grass,  a  greater  sensation  of  enjoyment  than 
the  Roman  epicure  at  his  perfumed  feast. 
But  most  of  all  it  seemed  to  please  our  In- 
dian friends,  who,  in  the  unrestrained  enjoy- 
ment of  the  moment,  demanded  to  know  if 
our  "medicine  days  came  often."  No  re- 
straint was  exercised  at  the  iiospitable  board, 
and.  to  the  great  delight  of  his  elders,  our 
ycung  Indian  lad  made  himself  extremely 
drunk. 


1843.  j 


L 


TIVE. 


[1842, 1  1843.J 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARIlA'nVH. 


15 


We  cnisspd  this  inoniing  nume- 
the  isinall  creeks  whicli,  in  the 
a  iiiiil  ineltiiiL^  smnv,  poiir  down 
xc  hriniriiij,''  (Imvii  witii  them  ai- 
(liiiiiitities  of  siuid  iiiul  firavel, 
gradually  raised  their  beds  lour 
ahovo  the  level  of  the  i)rairic, 
crosH,  making  eaeh  one  of  tl  c;r. 
Po.  Raised  in  this  way  ahove 
iliiiir  prairie,  without  any  bank, 
■How  and  winding  line  of  Iheii 
les  a  causeway  from  the  hills  tn 
Many  ppots  on  the  prairie  are 
suntlo  er  (httlaiillius). 
ire  riding  slowly  along  this  after- 
i  of  dust  in  the  ravnics,  amoni; 
he  right,  suddenly  attracted  our 
id  in  a  few  minutes  column  after 
bulTalo  came  gallojiing  down, 
ctly  to  the  river.  15y  the  time 
herds  had  reached  the  water,  the 
darkened  witli  the  dense  nuisses. 
I  before  us,  when  the  bands  tirs'i 
into  the  valley  stretched  an  im- 
,  the  head  of  which  was  lost 
•iver  hills  on  the  opposite  side ; 
y  poured  down  from  the  ridge  on 
I'Vom  hill  to  hill,  the  prairie  hot- 
■rtainly  not  less  than  two  miles 
allowing  the  animals  to  be  ten 
.nd  only  ten  in  a  line,  there  were 
I'en  thousand  in  view.  Some 
hns  be  formed  of  their  number 
had  occupied  the  whole  plain, 
ime  they  surrounded  us  on  every 
ding  for  several  miles  in  the  rear, 
i  as  far  as  the  eye  conid  reach  ; 
uid  us,  as  we  advanced,  an  open 
ly  two  or  three  hundred  yards, 
nent  of  the  bufralo  indicated  to 
sence   of  Indians  on   the  north 

earlier  than  usual,  about  forty 
the  junction,  and  all  hands  were 
engaged  in  preparing  a  feast  to 
le  day.  The  kindness  of  our 
t.  Louis  had  provided  us  with  a 
y  of  excellent  preserves  and  rich 
and  when  these  were  added  to  a 
ioup,  anu  variously  prepared  dish- 
choicest  ouflalo  meat,  crowncl 
of  cofTee.  and  enjoyed  with  pmi- 
,  we  felt,  as  we  sat  in  barbaric 
ind  our  smoking  supper  on  the 
?ater  sensation  of  enjoyment  than 
1  epicure  at  his  perfumed  feast, 
f  all  it  seemed  to  please  our  In- 
i,  who,  in  the  unrestrained  enjoy- 
3  moment,  demanded  to  know  if 
line  days  came  often."  No  re- 
exercised  at  the  hospitable  board, 
great  delight  of  his  elders,  our 
Ian  lad  made  himself  extreme!) 


Our  encampment  was  within  a  few  miles 
of  the  place  where  the  ro:id  crosses  to  the 
north  fork,  and  various  reasons  led  me  to  di- 
vide my  party  at  this  point.     The  norlli  fork 
,vas  the  principal  object  of  my  survey  ;  but 
I  was  desirous  to  ascend  the  south  branch, 
ivitli  a  view  of  obtaining  some  astronomical 
msitiontJ,  and  determining  the  mouths  of  iis 
iributaries  as  far  as  St.  Vrain's  fort,  estimat- 
ed to  be  some  two  hundred  miles  further  up 
the  river,  and  near  to  Long's  peak.     There 
[hoped  to  obtain  some  mules,  which  I  found 
would  be  necessary  to  relieve  my  horses.  In  a 
military  point  of  view,  I  was  desirous  to  form 
some  opinion  of  the  country  relative  to  the  e-^- 
lablishmciit  of  posts  on  a  line  connecting  the 
settlements    with    the    south    pass   of   the 
Rocky  mountains,  by  way  of  the  Arkansas 
and  the  south    and '  Laramie    forks   of  the 
Platte.      Crossino   the   country    northwest- 
wardly from  St.  Vrain's  fort,  to  the  Ameri- 
can company's  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  La- 
ramie, would  give  me   some   acquaintance 
with  the  affluents  which  head  in  the  moun- 
tains between    the  two;  I  therefore  deter- 
mined to  set  out  the  next  morning,  accompa- 
r.icd  by  Mr.  Preuss  and  four  men.  Maxwell, 
Bernier,  Avot,  and  Basil  Lajeunesse.     Our 
Clieyennes',  whose  village  lay  up  this  river. 
also  decided  to  accompany  us.     The  party  I 
left  in  charge  of  Clement  Lambert,  with  or- 
ders to  cross  to  the  north  fork  ;  and  at^  some 
convenient   place,   near  to  the   Cnulee  des 
Prim's,  make  a  cache  of  everything  not  ab- 
solutely  necessary  to  the  further   progress 
of  our  expedition.     From  this  point,  using 
the  most  guarded  precaution  in  his  march 
through  the  country,  he  was  to  nroceed  to 
the  American  company's  fort  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Laramie's  fork,  and  await  my  arrival, 
which  would  be  prior  to  the  16th,  as  on  that 
and  the  following  night  would  occur  sorrie 
occultations  which  I  was  desirous  to  obtain 
at  that  place. 

j„/,y  5,_Before  breakfast  all  was  ready. 
We  liiid  one  led  horse  in  addition  to  those 
we  rode,  and  a  packed  mule, destined  to  car- 
ry our  instruments,  provisions,  and  baggage  ; 
the  last  two  articles  not  being  of  very  great 
weight.     The  instruments  consisted   of   a 
sextant,  artificial  horizon,  &c.,  a  barometer, 
spy  glass,  and  compass.     The  chronometer! 
of  course  kept  on  my  person,  I  had  ordered 
tlie  cook  to  put  up  lor  us  some  flour,  coffee, 
and  sugar,  and  our  rifles  were  to  furnish  the 
rest.     One  blanket,  in  addition  to  his  saddle 
and  saddle  blanket,  furnished  the  materials 
for  each  man's  bed,  and  every  one  was  pro- 
vided with   a   change  of  linen.    All  were 
armed  with  rilles  or  double  barrelled  guns; 
and,  in  addition  to  these.  Maxwell   and  my- 
self were  furnished  with  excellent  pistols. 
Thus  accoutred,  we  took  a  parting  breakfast 
v*ilh  our  friends,  and  set  forth. 


Our  journey  lh»'  first  day  alToi-ded  nolhing 
of  any  interest.     We  shot  a  biiHalo  toward 
.-.unset,  and   having  ohiained  some  meat  for 
our  evening  meal,  eiicaiiiped  where   a  little 
timber  atfiinlcd  us  the  means  of  making  a 
lire.     Having  disposed  our  meat  on  roasting 
sticks,  we  pwceeded  to  unpack  our  bales  in 
search   of  colTee  and  sugar,  and  Hour  for 
bread.     With  the  exception  of  a  little  parch- 
ed colTee,  unground,  we  found  nothing.    Our 
cook  had  neglected  to  put   it  up,  or  it  had 
been  somehow  forgotten.     Tired  and  bun- 
rrry,  with  tough  bull   meat  without  salt  (for 
we  had  not  been  able  to  kill  a  cow),  and  a 
little  bitter  cotfee,  we  sat  down  in  silence  to 
our  miserable  fare,  a  very  disconsolate  jiarty  ; 
for  ve.sterday's    feast  was  yet   Iresh  m  our 
meinories,  and  this  was  our  tir.st  brush  with 
misfortune.      Each  man  took    his   blanket, 
and  laid  himself  down  silently  ;  for  the  worst 
jiart  of  tiiese  mishaps  is,  that  they   make 
people  ill-humored.     To-day  we  had  travel- 
led about  thirty-six  miles. 

July  ().— Finding  that  our  present  excur- 
sion would  be  attended  with  considerable 
hardship,  and  unwilling  to  expose  more  jier- 
sons  than  necessary,  I  determined  to  send 
Mr.  Preu.ss  back  to  the  party.  His  horse, 
too,  ap])earod  in  no  condition  to  support  the 
journey  ;  and  accordingly,  after  breaktast, 
ho  took  the  road  across  the  hills,  attended 
by  one  of  my  most  trusty  men,Reruier.  The 
ridge  between  the  rivers  is  here  about  fifteen 
mifes  broad,  and  I  expected  he  would  proba- 
bly strike  the  fork  near  their  evening  camp. 
At  all  events  he  would  not  fail  to  find  their 
trail,  and  rejoin  them  the  next  day. 

We  continued  out  journey,  seven  in  num- 
ber, including  the  three  Cheyennes.     Our 
general  course  was  southwest,  np  the  valley 
of  the  river,  which  was  sandy,  liordered  on 
the  northern  side  of  the  valley  by  a  low 
ridge  ;  and  on  the  south,  after  seven  or  ei^ht 
miles,  the  river  hills  became  higher.     Six 
miles  from  our  resting  place  we  crossed  the 
bed  of  a  considerable  stream,  now  entirely 
dry— a  bed  of  sand.     In  a  grove  of  willows, 
near  the  mouth,  were  the  remains  of  a  con- 
siderable fort,  constructed  of  trunks  of  largo 
trees      It  was  apparently  very  old,  and  liad 
probably  been  the  scene  of  some  hostile  en- 
counter among  the  roving  tribes.     Its  soli- 
tude formed  an  impressive  contrast  to  the 
picture  which  our  imaginations  involunta- 
rily drew  of  the  busy  scene  which  hail  been 
enacted  here.    The  timber  appeared  to  have 
been  much   more  extensive  formerly  than 
now.     There  were  but  few  trees,  a  kii.d  ot 
long-leaved  willow, standing;  and  numerou? 
trunks  of  large  trees  were  scattered  about 
on  the  ground.     In  many  similar  places  I 
had  occasion  to  remark  an  apparent  progres- 
sive decay  in  the  timber.     Ten  miles   far- 
ther we  reached  the  mouth  of  Lodge  Polo 


w 


CAPT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


.1842 


'.reek,  a  clear  and  liandsomn  ptroam,  run- 
ning through  a  broad  valloy.  In  its  course 
throuph  ihc  bottom  it  lias  a  imilbrni  breadth 
of  twenty-two  feet,  and  six  inches  in  depth. 
A  few  willows  on  tln;  oanks  strike  pleasant- 
ly on  the  eye,  by  their  greennesn,  in  the 
midst  of  the  hot  and  barren  sands. 

The  amorjiha  was  l're(iuent  among  the 
ravines,  but  tlie  sunflower  (hrlianlhus)  was 
the  characteristic ;  and  (lowers  of  deep 
warm  colors  seem  most  to  love  the  sandy 
soil.  The  impression  of  the  country  travelled 
over  to-day  was  one  of  diy  and  barren  sands. 
We  turned  in  towards  the  river  at  noon, 
and  gave  our  horses  two  hours  for  tood  and 
rest.  I  had  no  other  thermometer  than  the 
one  attached  to  the  barometer,  which  stood 
at  89°,  the  height  of  the  column  in  the  ba- 
rometer being  120.235  at  meridian.  The  sky 
was  clear,  with  a  high  wind  from  the  south. 
At  2,  we  continued  our  journey  ;  the  wind 
had  moderated,  and  it  became  almost  unen- 
dnrably  hot,  and  our  animals  sufTored  severe- 
ly. In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  wind 
rose  suddenly,  and  blew  hard  Ironi  the  south- 
west, with  thunder  and  lightning,  and  squalls 
of  rain;  these  were  blown  against  us  with 
violence  by  the  wind;  and,  hailing,  we 
turned  our  backs  to  the  storm  until  it  blew 
over.  Antelope  were  tolerably  freijuent, 
with  a  large  grey  hare  ;  but  the  former  were 
shy,  and  the  latter  hardly  worth  the  delay  of 
stopping  to  shoot  them  ;  so,  as  tiie  evening 
drew  near,  we  again  had  recourse  to  an  old 
bull,  and  encamped  at  sunset  on  an  island  in 
tlie  Platte. 

We  ate  our  meat  with  a  good  relish  this 
evening,  for  we  were  all  in  tine  health,  and 
had  ridden  nearly  all  of  a  long  summer's 
day,  with  a  burning  sun  reflected  from  the 
sands.  My  companions  slept  rolled  up  in 
their  blankets,  and  the  Indians  lay  in  the 
grass  near  the  fire ;  but  my  sleeping  place 
generally  had  an  air  of  more  pretension. 
Our  rifles  were  tied  together  near  the  muz- 
zle, the  butts  resting  on  the  ground,  and  a 
knife  laid  on  the  rope,  to  cut  away  in  case 
of  an  alarm.  Over  this,  which  made  a  kind 
of  frame,  was  thrown  a  large  India  rubber 
cloth,  which  we  used  to  cover  our  packs. 
This  made  a  tent  sutticiently  large  to  receive 
about  half  of  my  bed,  and  was  a  place  of 
shelter  for  my  instruments ;  and  as  I  was 
careful  always  to  put  this  part  against  the 
wind,  I  could  lie  here  with  a  sensation  of 
eatislied  enjoyment,  and  hear  the  wind  blow, 
«nd  the  rain  patter  close  to  my  head,  and 
know  that  I  should  be  at  least  half  dry. 
Certainly  I  never  slept  more  soundly.  The 
barometer  at  sunset  was  20.010,  thermome- 
ter 81°,  and  cloudy:  but  a  gale  from  the 
west  sprang  up  with  the  setting  sun,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  swept  away  every  cloud 
from  the  sky.     The  evening  was  very  fine, 


and  I  remained  up  to  take  some  astronomi- 
cal observations,  which  made  our  position 
in  latitude  40°  51'  17",  and  longitude  103* 
07'  00". 

Jiili/  7. — At  our  camp  this  morning,  at  8 
o'clocK,  the  barometer  was  at  2()  183,  flier' 
mometer  69°,  and  clear,  with  a  light  wind 
from  tiie  southwest.  The  |iast  nluht  had 
been  squally,  with  high  winds,  and  occasion' 
ally  a  few  drops  of  rain.  Our  cooking  did 
not  occupy  much  time,  and  we  lol't  camp 
early.  Nothing  of  interest  occiirivd  durini; 
the  morning.  The  same  dreary  liarrcnnesn, 
except  that  a  hard  marly  clay  had  rcptaccl 
the  sandy  soil.  Buffalo  absolutely  covered  the 
plain  on  both  sides  the  river,  and  wliencver 
wo  ascended  the  hills,  scattered  lierds  gavo 
life  to  the  view  in  every  direction.  A  ^'lnall 
drove  (if  wild  horses  made  their  appparanco 
on  the  low  river  bottoms,  a  mile  or  two  to 
the  left,  and  I  sent  oil"  one  ol  I  lie  Indians 
(who  seemed  very  eager  to  catch  one)  on  uiy 
led  horse,  a  spirited  and  fleet  animal.  Tlio 
savage  manxuvred  a  little  to  get  the  wind 
of  the  horses,  in  which  he  succeeded — ap- 
proaching within  a  hundred  yards  without 
iieing  discovered.  The  chase  lor  a  few 
minutes  was  interesting.  My  hunter  easily 
overtook  and  passed  the  liindiiiost  of  the  wild 
drove,  which  the  Indian  did  not  attempt  to 
lasso;  all  his  ellorts  being  directed  to  tiie 
capture  of  the  leader.  Hut  the  strength  of 
the  horse,  weakened  by  tlie  insullicient  nour- 
ishment of  grass,  failed  in  a  race,  and  all  the 
drove  escaped.  We  halted  at  noon  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  the  barometer  at  that  time 
being  20.192,  and  the  thermomoter  lOS-*, 
with  a  light  air  from  the  south,  and  clear 
weather. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  dust  rising 
among  the  hills  at  a  particular  place,  at- 
tracted our  attention ;  and,  riding  up,  we 
found  a  band  of  eighteen  or  twenty  biiffiilo 
bulls  engaged  in  a  des|jerate  tight.  Though 
butting  and  goring  were  bestowed  liberally, 
and  without  distincti'm.  yet  their  efforts  were 
evidently  directed  against  one — a  huge  gaunl 
old  bull,  very  lean,  while  liis  adversaries 
were  all  fat  and  in  good  order.  H(>  appeared 
very  weak,  and  had  already  received  some 
wounds,  and,  while  we  were  looking  on,  was 
severa..  times  knocked  down  and  badly  hurt 
and  a  'v^-y  few  moments  would  have  put  at 
end  to  nim.  Of  course,  we  took  the  side  ol 
the  weaker  party,  and  attacked  the  herd  ;  bif 
they  were  so  blind  with  rage,  •.hat  thoj 
fought  on,  utterly  regardless  of  our  presence 
although  on  foot  and  on  horseback  wo  were 
flring  in  open  view  within  twenty  yards  of 
them.  But  this  did  not  last  long.  In  a  very 
few  seconds,  we  created  a  commotion  amonjr 
them.  One  or  two,  which  were  knockeii 
over  by  the  balls,  jumped  up  and  ran  ofTinto 
tlie  hills  ;  and  they  began  to  retreat  slowly 


1842. 


along  a  1 
furiously 
had  read 
dispersed 
to  lie  (low 
remained 
fired  upoi 
short  timi 
supper, 
horses,  th 
in  their 
took  it  ii 
went,  fol 
horse,  wi 
on  his  li 
brouLrht  li 
tunately. 
that  notlii 
the  /east 

The  sii 
row  lines 
promised 
plenty  of 
ter  and  r 
find  clear 
rt'nter  of 
found  the 
dred  feet 
Ihc  level 
'janks,  bo 
wood,  but 
Fcveral  si 
same  con 
Platte  hot 
clay  form 
any  mois 
Turnin^i 
bank  in 
fnd   an 
sprcadi 
At  suns 
thermom 
20°  E., 
heavy 
towards 
sufficient 
tions,  wl 
and  lonii 

Jtili/ 
The  bre 
ibwcloii 
iHg  at : 
Since 
over  a 
each  prr 
leaviiifr 
a  sandy 
peared 
(vhich ' 
ind  on 
fome  to 

Jour 
i  place 
horses' 


VE. 


,1842 


1842. 


CM'T.  FUKMONTS  NAUKATIVH. 


17 


d  tip  to  take  ponic  nstronomi- 
ns,  which  inado  mir  position 
°  61'  17",  aiul  loiijjiiiiile  103' 

t  our  camp  tliis  morninjr,  at  8 
iromoter  was  at  •-!()  183,  tlier- 
and  clear,  with  a  li;:iit  winii 
hwest.  Tlie  .last  iiiuht  had 
with  high  wind.-,  and  ocragion- 
ips  of  rain.  Our  coi)l;in(;  did 
inch  time,  and  wo  loft  camp 
ng  of  interest  occurnni  dnrini; 

The  same  dreary  liarrcnne?*. 
hard  marly  clay  had  reptaccl 
.  Buffalo  absolutely  covored  the 
sides  the  river,  and  whenever 
the  hills,  scattered  herdh  gavo 
w  in  every  direction.  A  !.inall 
iiorses  made  their  ai)pearanco 
ver  bottoms,  a  mile  or  two  to 
1  sent  oil'  one  ol  tlie  Indians 
very  eager  to  catch  one)  on  my 
pirited  and  tleet  animal.  Tlio 
cuvred  a  little  to  get  the  wini! 

in  which  he  succeeded — ap- 

ithin  a  hundred  yards  withoiit 

ered.     The    ciiase    lor   a   few 

interesting.     My  hunter  easily 

passed  the  hinduiost  of  tiie  wild 

the  Indian  did  not  attempt  to 

is  etVorts  being  directed  to  the 

e  leader.     IJut  the  strength  of 

wakened  by  the  insufficient  nour- 

rass,  failed  in  a  race,  and  all  the 

?d.     We  lialted  at  noon  on  the 

river,  the  barometer  at  that  time 

12,  and  the  liiennometer  103^, 

L  air  from  the  south,  and  clear 


irse  of  the  afternoon,  dust  risins; 
hills  at  a  particidar   place,  at- 

attention ;  and,  riding  up,  we 
i  of  eighteen  or  twenty  buffiilo 
°d  in  a  desiicrafe  fight.  Though 
goring  were  bestowed  liberally, 
,  distinction,  yet  their  eflbrts  were 
reeled  against  one — a  huge  gaunt 
ry  lean,   while   his   adversaries 

and  in  good  order.  He  appeared 
and  had  alrendy  received  some 
i,  while  we  were  looking  on,  was 
es  knocked  down  and  badly  hurt 
few  moments  would  have  put  at. 
Of  course,  we  took  the  side  ol 

party,  and  attacked  the  herd  ;  bif 

go  blind  with  rage.  *.hat  thcj 
utterly  regardless  of  our  presence 
1  foot  and  on  horseback  v,o  wore 
en  view  within  twenty  yards  of 
;  this  did  not  last  long.  In  a  very 
s,  we  created  a  commotion  amon^ 
e  or  two,  wiiich  were  knocked 
>  balls,  jumped  up  and  ran  oflT  into 
and  they  began  to  retreat  slowly 


along  a  broad  ravine  to  tlie  river,  ffghting 
furio'itslv  as  thev  went.  Uy  -ho  time  they 
had  reached  fhe'liottntn,  we"  had  pretty  well 
dispersed  them,  and  the  old  bull  liohbled  off" 
to  lie  down  somewhere.  One  of  his  enemies 
remained  on  the  ground  whore  we  liad  first 
fired  upon  tliein.  and  wc  stopped  there  for  a 
short  time  to  cut  from  him  some  meat  for  our 
Bupper.  \V(!  Iiiid  neglected  to  secure  our 
horses,  thinking  it  an  unnecessary  precaution 
in  their  fatigued  condition  ;  but  our  mule 
trMik  it  into  his  head  to  start,  and  away  he 
went,  followed  at  full  speed  by  the  pack 
horse,  with  all  the  baggage  and  instruments 
on  liis  hack.  They  were  recovered  and 
broil  !iht  back,  after  a  chase  of  a  mile.  For- 
tunately, everything  was  well  secured,  so 
that  nothing,  not  even  the  barometer,  was  in 
the  least  injured. 

The  sun  was  getting  low,  and  some  nar- 
row lines  of  timber  four  or  five  miles  distant 
promiseil  us  a  pleasant  camp,  where,  with 
plenty  of  wood  lor  I'li'^,  and  comfortable  shel- 
ter and  rich  gra.=s  for  our  animals,  we  should 
find  clear  cool  springs,  instead  of  the  warm 
rt-ator  of  tlie  Platte.     On   our   arrival,  we 
found  the  bed  of  a  stream  fifty  to  one  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  suid<  si  me  thirty  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  prairie,  with  perpendicular 
'janks,  bordered  bv  a  fring.  of  green  cotton- 
wood,  but  not  a  (li-op  of  water.     There  were 
several  small  forks  to  the  stream,  all  in  the 
same  condition,     With  the  oxreptifm  of  the 
Platte  bottom,  the  country  seemed  to  be  of  a 
clay  formati(m,  drv,  and  perfectly  devoid  of 
any  moi.-ture,  and  baked  hard  by  the  sun. 
Turning  oll'towards  the  river,  we  reached  the 
bank  in  about  a  mile,  and  were  delighted  to 
fnd   an   old   tree,    with   thick   foliage   and 
spreading  branches,   whore  we   encamped. 
At   sunset,   the   barometer   was  at  25.950, 
thermometer  81',  with  a  strong  wind  fromS. 
20°  E.,  and  the  sky  partially  covered  with 
heavy  masses  of  cloud,  which  settled  a  little 
towards  the  horizon  by  10  o'clock,  leaving  it 
sufficientlv  clear  for  astronomical  observa- 
tions, which  place.!  us  in  latitude  40°  33'  2G", 
and  longitude  103°  30'  37". 

Jul,/  8.— The  morning  was  very  pleasant. 
_  Tlie  breeze  was  fresh  from  S.  50*  E.  with 
ibw clouds;  the  barometer  at  6  o'clock  stand- 
ing at  2.5.970,  and  the  thermometer  at  70°. 
Since  leaving  the  forks,  our  route  had  passed 
over  a  country  alternately  clay  and  sand, 
each  presenting  the  same  naked  waste.  On 
leaving  camp  this  morning,  wc  struck  again 
a  sandy  region,  in  which  the  vegetation  ap- 
pearod  somewhat  more  vigorous  than  that 
which  we  had  observed  for  the  last  few  days  ; 
ind  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  were 
»ome  tolerably  large  groves  of  timber. 

Joumeving  along,  we  came  suddenly  upon 
i  place  where  the  ground  was  covered  with 
horses'  tracks,  which  had  been  made  since 


the  rain,  and  indicated  the  immrdiate  prcs- 
I'lice  of  Indians  in  our  n      liborhcuiil.     The 
bulKilo,  fiio,  which  the  <lay  uc  for"  had  lieen  so 
numerous,  were  nowhere  in  sight — another 
sure  indication  ihiit  therr-  were  people  near. 
Riding  on,  we  discovered  thi>  carcass  of  a 
buffiilo  recently  killed — perhaps  the  day  be- 
fore.     We  scanned   the    horizon    carefully 
with  the  glass,  but  no  living  object  was  to  be 
seen.     For  the  ne.xt  mile  or  two,  tlie  ground 
was    dotted    with    buffalo   carca-i-es.   which 
showed  that  the  Indians  had  made  a  surround 
here,  and  were  in  considerable   force.     We 
went  on  (piickly  and  cautiously,  keeping  the 
river  bottom,  and  carefully  avoidiii;r  ihe  hills  ; 
but  we  met  with  no  intermiition,  aim  began 
to  nrrow  careless  again.     \Vc  luid  already 
lost  one  of  our  horses,  and  here  Hasil'smule 
showed  symptoms  of  giving  out.  and  finally 
refused  to  advance,  being  what  tiie  Canadians 
call   resl^.     He   therefore   di'^mounted,  and 
drove  her  along  before  him  ;  but  this  was  a 
very  slow  way  ol"  travelling.     We  had  inad- 
vertently got  about  half  a  mile  'n  advance, 
but  our  Cheyennes,  who  were  t'enerallv  a 
mile  or  two  in  the  rear,  remained  with  ium. 
There  -vere  some  dark-looking  object^  among 
the  hills,  about  two  miles  to  tlie  left,  here  low 
and  undulating,  which  we  had   seen    for  a 
little  time,  and  supposed  to  be  buffiilo  coming 
in  to  water  :  but,  iiappeninrr  to  hxd;  behind, 
Maxwell  saw  the  Ciieyennes  whipping  np 
furiously,  and  another  glance  at    tli(<  dark 
objects  showed  them  at  once  to  bo  Indians 
coining  up  at  speed. 

Had  wc  been  well  mounted,  and  disen- 
cumbered of  instruments,  we  migla  liavc  set 
them  at  defiance ;  but  as  it  was,  we  were 
fairly  caught.  It  was  too  late  to  rejoin  our 
friends,  and  wo  endeavored  to  gain  a  clump 
of  timber  about  half  a  mile  ahead ;  but  the 
in.struments  and  the  tired  state  of  our  Iiorses 
did  not  allow  us  to  go  faster  than  a  steady 
canter,  and  they  were  gaining  on  us  fast. 
At  first,  they  did  not  appear  to  lie  more  than 
fifteen  or  twenty  in  number,  but  group  after 
group  darted  into  view  at  the  top  of  the  hills, 
until  all  the  little  eminences  seemed  in  mo- 
tion, and,  in  a  few  minutes  from  the  time 
they  were  first  discovered,  two  or  three  hun- 
dred, naked  to  the  breech  cloth,  were  sweep- 
ing across  t!io  prairie.  In  a  few  hundred 
yards  wc  discovered  that  the  timber  we  were 
endeavoring  to  make  was  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  ;  and  before  wo  could  reach 
the  bank,  down  came  the  Indians  upon  us. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  tliat  in  a  few  sec- 
onds more  the  leading  man.  and  j)orha|)s 
some  of  his  companions,  woubl  have  rolled 
in  the  dust ;  for  we  had  jerked  the  covers 
from  our  guns,  and  our  fingers  were  on  the 
triggers ;  men  in  such  cases  generally  act 
from  instinct,  and  a  charge  from  three  hun- 
dred naked  savages  is  a  circumstance  not 


L 


It 


CAI'T.  I'Ri:.MO\T'S  NARRATIVE. 


[1843 


well  cnlriilatpd  to  prr.mnto  a  cool  pxnn^iso  of 
jiidi;ment.  Just  as  he  was  aliciiit  to  tire, 
Alaxwcli  riM'ofriiizcd  the  Icitdiiit,'  Imliiiii,  and 
slioiitcd  to  liiiii  in  the  Indian  lan}.niii<;i', 
"  VoiiVo  !i  fool,  (i —  damn  you,  don't  you 
know  ini> .'"'  The  sound  of  his  own  lan- 
ffuajip  sccnu'd  to  shock  tlio  savaijo,  ami. 
Hwi'rvintj  his  liorso  a  little,  Im  |)assod  us  like 
an  arrow.  Ho  wlicoii'd,  as  I  rode  out  toward 
him,  and  frave  nio  his  hand,  striking!  his 
hreast  and  (-.Mdaiininij  ".Vrapahol"  'J'licy 
proved  to  i)e  a  vJllaL'i!  of  that  nation,  anionij 
whom  .Mii.xweil  had  resided  as  a  trader  a  year 
or  two  piovlonsly,  and  reroifiiized  him  ae- 
cordinjrlv.  NVe  wore  soon  in  the  niidsl,  of 
the  hanif,  answering  as  well  as  wo  could  a 
multitude  o(  (,uostions;  of  which  the  very 
first  was,  of  what  tri  Jc  were  our  Indian  com- 
panions who  were  cotninfj  in  the  roar .'  They 
secinrd  disaripointed  to  know  that  tlioy  wore 
Cheyennes,  'or  they  liad  fully  anticipated  a 
grand  dat.co around  a  I'awnoo  scalp  that  nijiht. 

The  chief  yhowed  us  his  villaij;e  at  a  fjrove 
on  tlie  river  i-ix  miles  ahead,  and  pointed  out 
a  band  of  hiitliilo  on  the  other  Bide  of  the 
Platte,  innnediately  opposite  us,  which  lie 
said  they  were  froinr;  to  snrronn<l.  They  had 
seen  the  hand  early  in  the  morninfr  from  their 
villa;.re,  and  had  heen  makiuf;  a  larije  circuit, 
to  avoid  giving  them  the  wind,  when  tlioy 
discovered  us.  In  a  few  minutes  tlie  women 
came  galloping  up,  astride  on  their  horses, 
and  naked  from  their  knees  down,  and  the 
Ifipa  up.  They  fidlowed  the  men,  to  assist 
in  cutting  up  and  carrying  otl'  the  meat. 

The  wind  was  blowing  directly  across  the 
river,  and  thechief  requested  us  to  halt  where 
wo  were  for  awhile,  in  order  to  avoid  raising 
the  herd.  Wo  therefore  unsaddled  our  horses, 
and  sat  down  on  the  bank  to  view  the  scene  ; 
and  our  new  acquaintances  rode  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  lower  down,  and  began  crossing 
the  river.  Scores  of  wild-looking  dogs  fol- 
lowed, looking  like  troops  of  wolves,  and 
having,  in  fact,  but  very  little  of  the  dog  in 
their  composition.  Some  of  them  remained 
with  us,  and  I  chocked  one  of  the  men,  whom 
I  found  aiming  atone,  which  lie  was  about  to 
kill  for  a  wolf.  The  day  had  become  very 
hot.  The  air  was  clear,  with  a  very  slight 
breeze  ;  and  now,  at  12  o'clock,  while  the  ba- 
rometer stood  at  25.920,  the  attached  thermo- 
meter was  at  108°.  Our  Cheyennes  had  learn- 
ned  that  with  the  Arapaho  village  were  about 
twenty  lodges  of  their  own,  including  their  own 
families  ;  they  therefore  immediately  com- 
menced making  theirtoiletto.  After  bathing  in 
the  river,  they  invested  themselves  in  some 
handsome  calico  shirts,  which  I  afterward 
learned  they  iiad  stolen  from  my  own  men,  and 
spent  some  time  in  arranging  their  hait  and 
painting  themselves  with  some  vermilion  I 
had  given  them.  While  they  were  engaged 
in  this  satisfactory  manner,one  of  their  half- 


wild  horses,  to  which  the  crowd  of  prancing 
animals  which  had  just  passed  iiad  reciMed 
the  Ireedom  of  her  existence  among  the  wild 
droves  on  the  prairie,  suddenly  dashed  llito 
till'  lulls  at  the  top  of  her  speed.  She  va.^ 
their  |)ack  horse,  ami  had  on  her  hack  al  the 
worldly  wealth  of  our  pour  ''hoyenne.s  all 
ilieir  accoutrements,  and  all  ine  little  arli  des 
which  they  had  picked  up  among  us,  x  ith 
some  few  |)resonts  I  hail  given  them.  '  'he 
loss  which  they  seemed  to  regret  most  \\  ire 
their  spears  and  shields,  and  some  tobacco 
which  they  had  received  from  nu.'.  However, 
they  bore  it  all  with  the  philosophy  of  an  In- 
dian, and  laughingly  contimu'd  their  toilette. 
They  appeared,  however,  a  little  mortiiiodat 
the  thought  of  returning  to  the  village  in  such 
a  sorry  plight.  "  Our  [jeojili^  will  laugh  at 
us,"  said  one  of  them,  "  returning  to  the  vil- 
lage on  foot,  instead  of  driving  back  a  drove 
of  I'awnee  horses."  Ho  demanded  to  know 
if  I  loved  my  sorrel  hunter  very  much  ;  to 
which  I  replied,  he  was  the  object  of  my 
most  intense  allection.  Far  from  being  able 
to  give,  I  liis  myself  in  want  of  horses;  and 
any  suggestion  of  parting  with  the  few  I  had 
valuable,  was  met  with  a  jieremiitory  refusal. 
In  the  meantime,  the  slaughter  was  about  to 
commence  on  the  other  side.  So  soon  as 
they  reached  it,  the  Indians  separated  into 
two  bodies.  One  parly  proceeded  directly 
across  the  prairie,  towards  the  hills,  in  an 
extended  line,  while  the  other  went  up  thj 
river  ;  and  instantly  as  they  had  given  tin 
wind  to  the  herd,  the  chase  commenced.  Th< 
butFalo  started  for  the  hills,  but  were  inter 
cepted  and  driven  back  toward  the  rivoi 
broken  and  running  in  every  direction.  Tlw 
clouds  of  dust  soon  covered  the  whole  scene 
preventing  us  from  having  any  but  an  occa 
sional  view.  It  had  a  very  singular  a|)pear 
ance  to  us  at  a  distance,  especially  whei 
looking  with  the  glass.  Wc  were  too  fartt 
hear  the  report  of  the  guns,  or  any  sound 
and  at  every  instant,  through  the  clouds  of 
dust,  which  the  sun  made  luminous,  we  coulc 
see  for  a  moment  two  or  three  butllilo  dashing 
along,  and  clo.se  behind  them  an  Indian  willi 
his  long  spear,  or  other  weapon,  and  instantly 
again  they  disappeared.  The  apparent  si- 
lence, and  the  dimly  seen  figures  llitting  by 
with  such  rapidity,  gave  it  a  kind  of  dreamy 
eirect,and  seemed  more  like  a  picture  than  a 
scene  of  real  lite.  It  had  been  a  large  herd 
when  the  ccrne  commenced,  |)robably  three 
or  four  hundred  in  number  ;  but,  though  1 
watched  them  closely,  I  did  not  see  one 
emerge  from  the  fatal  cloud  where  the  work 
of  destruction  was  going  on.  After  remain 
ing  here  about  an  hour,  wo  resumed  our 
journey  in  the  direction  ot  Llie  village. 

Ciradually,  as  we  rode  op..  Indian  after  In- 
dian came  dropping  along,  «.u<;ii  with  meat; 
and  by  the  time  we  hati  .  .-  i.td  the  lodges, 


VII. 


[1842 


J842.] 


CAPT.  FUIvMONTS  NARRATIVE. 


19 


which  llio  crowd  of  prancing 
li;i(l  JM^'t,  piisHi'd  liiid  rt'cllled 
liiT  pxislciue  iiiiKiiii,'  tlir  wild 
prriirii',  siuldoidy  dasliod  'aito 
J  top  of  iicr  s|ic't'd.     She  vns 
so, iind  ii;id  on  iiiThiick  ill  thfi 
I  ol  oiir  jioiir  Choyonnos    nil 
inents,  and  all  ino  little  arli  des 
id  pickoil  np  simony;  its,  ^  ith 
onts  1  liai!  <rivtMi  ihi'in.     '  'lie 
y  seemed  to  reirrct  most  \\  sre 
nd   shields,  and  some  tobacco 
received  from  me.    However, 
with  t!ie  pliilosophy  ot'an  In- 
hiiiirly  continiii><l  their  toilette, 
d,  however,  a  lilllc  mortilied  at 
relnrniiif;  to  the  villa;,'e  in  such 
.     "  Our  ])e(iiile  will  lau^'h  at 
of  them,  "  retiirniiif,'  to  the  vil- 
iiistead  of  driviiif;  hack  a  drove 
irscs."     He  demandeil  to  know 
'  sorrel  hunter  very  much  ;   to 
ied,  lie  was  the  ohject  of  my 
illection.     Far  from  heiu;^  able 
;  myself  in  want  of  horses;  and 
n  of  partiiiir  with  the  few  I  had 
met  with  a  j^eremitlory  refusal, 
me,  the  slauijhter  was  about  to 
1  the  other  side.     So  soon  as 
it,  the   Indians  separated  into 
One  parly   jiroceedcd  directly 
rairic,  toward.s  the  hills,  in  an 
.',  while  the  other  went  up  the 
nstanlly  as  they  had  given  tin 
2rd,  the  chase  commenced.    Tlu 
:d  for  the  hills,  but  were  inter 
driven   back  toward  the  rivei 
iiiming  in  every  direction.    Tlu 
it  soon  covered  the  whole  scene 
s  from  liavin<T  any  but  an  occa 
It  had  a  very  sinsuhir  appear 
at  a  distance,  especially  whei 
the  glass.     Wc  were  too  far  t( 
ort  of  the  guns,  or  any  sound 
'  instant,  through  the  clouds  of 
die  sun  made  luminous,  we  coulo 
nent  two  or  three  bulllilo  dashing 
lose  behind  them  an  Indian  vvitli 
ir,  or  other  weapon,  and  instantly 
disappeared.     The  apparent  si- 
he  dimly  seen  figures  llitting  by 
ipidity,  gave  it  a  kind  of  dreamy 
■emed  more  like  a  iiicture  tliana 
,1  life.     It  had  been  a  large  liera 
rnc  commenced,  probably  three 
Ired  in  number  ;   but,  though  I 
em   closely,  I  did  not   see   one 
1  the  fatal  cloud  where  the  work 
in  was  going  on.     After  remain 
lOut  an  hour,  wo  resumed  our 
Jie  direction  ot  tlie  village. 
',  as  we  rode  on..  Indian  after  In- 
ropping  along,  i.iieu  with  meat; 
time  we  liati  •  .•  i.td  the  lodge*, 


the  backward  road  was  covered  with  the  re- 
turning horsemen.     It  was  a  plea^ant  con- 
trast with  the  desert  road  we  had  been  trav- 
elling.    Several   li;id    joined  company  with 
us,  and  one  of  the  chiefs  invi'ed  us  to  his 
lodge.     The  village  consisted  of  ab.iiit  one 
luindrrd  and   Iweiily-live  lodges,  of   which 
twenty  were  riieyeiines  ;    the  latter  pitched 
1   little  auart  from  the   Arapalioes.     'I'liey 
were  disposed  in  a  scattering  maniiiTon  boiii 
sides  of  a  broad  irregular  street,  about  one 
hundred   and  iil'ty  feet  wide,   and  running 
along  the  river.     As  we  rode  along,  I   re- 
marked near  som.''  of  the  lodges  a  kind  of 
tripod  frame,  formed  of  three  slender  poles  of 
birch,   scraped  very  clean,   to  which   were 
atfixed  the  shield  and  speat   with  some  other 
weap'Uis  of  a  chief.     AH  n-ere  scrupulou.^ly 
clean,  the  spear  head  was  burnished  bright, 
and   the  shield  white  and  stainless.     It  re- 
minded me  of  the  days  of   feuilal  chivalry  ; 
and  when,  as  I  roile  by,  I  yielded  to  the  pass- 
hig  impulse,  and  touched  one  of  the  spotless 
shields  with  the  muzzle  o(  my  gun,  I  almost 
expected  a  grim  warrior  to  start  from  the 
lodge  and  resent  my  challenge.     The  master 
of  the  lodge  spread  out  a   obe  for  me  to  sit 
upon,  and  the  s,c,uaws  set  before  us  a  large 
wooden  dish  of  bulTalo  meat,     lie  had  lit  his 
pipe   in  the  mean  while,  and   when  it  had 
been  passed  around,  we  commenced  our  din- 
ner while  he   continued  to  smoke.     Grad- 
ually, five  or  six  other  chiefs  came  in,  and 
took  their  seats  in  silence.     When  \ve  had 
linished,  our  host  asked  a  number  of  ques- 
tions relative  to  the  object  of  our  journey,  of 
which  I  made  no  concealment ;    telling  him 
simply  that  I  had  made  a  visit  to  see  the 
country,  preparatory  to  the  establishment  of 
military  posts  on  the  way  to  the  mountains. 
Although  this  was  information  of  the  iiigh- 
est  interest  to  them,  and  by  no  means  calcu- 
lated to  please  them,  it  excited  no  expres- 
sion of  surprise,  and  in  no  way  altered  the 
grave    courtesy   of  their  demeanor.       The 
others   listened   and  smoked.     I  remarked, 
that  ill  taking  tlie  pipe  for  the  first  lime, 
each  had  turned  the  stem  upward,  with  a 
rapid   glance,   as  in  ofiering  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  before  he  put  it  in  his  mouth.    A 
storm  had  been  gathering  for  the  past  hour, 
and   some   pattering    drops    on    ilia    lodge 
warned  us  that  we  had  some  miles  to  our 
camp.     Some  Indian  had  given  Ma.xwell  a 
bundle  of  dried  moat,  which  was  very  ac- 
ceptable, as  we  had  nothing;  and,  springing 
upon  our  horsor,  we  rode  off  at  dusk  in  the 
face   of  a   cold  shower  and  driving  wind. 
We    found    oiii    companions    under    some 
densely  foliaged  old  trees,  about  three  miles 
up  the  river.     Under  one  of  them  lay  the 
trunk  of  a  large  cotton-wood,  to  leeward  of 
which  the  men  had  kindled  a  fire,  and  we 
■at  here  and  roasted  our  meat  in  tolerable 


sludter.  .Nearly  opposite  was  the  mouth  of 
one  of  the  most  considerable  allluenls  of  the 
South  lork.  In  F'tiirrh'-  aiix  Ciislars  (Reaver 
fork;,  heading  olF  in  the  ridge  to  the  south- 
east. 

Jill,/  9, — This  morning  we   caught   the 
first  faint  glimpse  of  the  Rocky  moimtains, 
about  sixty  miles  distant.     Though  a  toler- 
ably bright  day,  there  was  a  slight  iMi>t,  and 
we' were  just  able  to  discern  the  snowy  sum- 
mit of  '•  i.,ong's    peak"    ("  Irs  (l.'ii.i-  dirillrs  " 
of  the   Canadians),   showing   like  a  small 
cloud   ni>ar  the  horizon.     I  found   it  easily 
distinguishable,   there    being   a   perceptible 
dilFereiice  in  its  appearance  from  the  white 
clouds  that  were  lloating  about  the  sky.     I 
was  pleased  to  find  that  among  the  trider.'f 
and  voyageurs  the  name  of  '■  Jjong's  peak" 
had  been  ailopted  iud  become  familiar  in  the 
country.     In  the  lavines  near  this  ])lace,  a 
liglit  brown  saiidsl.jue  m.ide  its  first  appear- 
ance.    About  8,  \\Q  disct'rnod  several  per- 
sons on  horseback  a  mile  or  two  ahe.id,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.     They  turned 
in  towards  the  river,  and  we  rode  down  to 
meet  them.     We   found    them   to   be   two 
white  men,  and  a  mulatto  named  Jim  Reck- 
with,  who  had  left  St.  Louis  when  a  boy, 
and   gone  to   live  with  the  Crow  Indians. 
He  had  distinguished  himself  among  them 
by  some  acts  of  daring  bravery,   and  had 
risen  to  the  rank  of  a  chief,  but  had  now,  for 
some  years,  left  them.     They  were  hi  searcii 
of  a  hand  of  horses  that  had  gone  olT  from  a 
camp  some  miles  above,   in  charge  of  Mr. 
Chal)on;.rd.     Iwo  of  them  continued  down 
the  river,  in  search  of  the  horses,  and  the 
American  turned  back  with  us,  and  wc  rode 
on  towards  the  camp.     About  eight  miles 
from  our  slee|iing  place  we  reached  Uijoii's 
fork,  an  afiluent  of  the  right  bank.     Where 
we   crossed    it,   a  short  distance  from  the 
Platte,  it  lias  a  sandy  bed  about  four  hun- 
dred  yards   broad ;    the   water    in   various 
small  streams,  a  few  inches  deep.     Seven 
miles  further  brought  us  to  a  camp  of  some 
four  or  five  whites  (New  Englanders,  I  be- 
lieve), who  had  accompanied  Captain  Wyeth 
to  the  Columbia  river,  and  were  independent 
trappers.     All  had  their  squaws  with  them, 
and  I  was  really  surprised  at  the  number  of 
little  fat  bufTalo-fod  boys  that  were  tumbling 
about  the  camp,  all  apparently  of  the  same 
age,  about  three  or  four  years  old.     They 
wore  encamped  on  a  rich  bottom,  covered 
with  a  profusion  of  fine  grass,  and  had  a 
large   number  of    fine-looking   horses   and 
mules.     We  rested  with  them  a  few  min- 
utes, and  in  about  two  miles  arrived  at  Clia- 
bonard's  camp,  on  an  island  in  the  Platte. 
On  the  heights  above,  wc  met  the  first  Span- 
iard I  had  seen  in  the  country.     Mr.  Cliabo- 
nard    was   in  the  service  of  Bent  and  St. 
Vrain'a  company,   and   had   left   their    fort 


90 


CAPT.  FRLMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


[I84& 


iomo  forty  nr  fifty  milos  ahovp,  in  tho  oprinp, 
with  hoitis  laiiiMi  witii  Ilic  tiirs  of  llio  lii(<t 
year's  tnulo.  lie  had  mot  tiie  same  forliiiie 
as  the  voyiipeiirs  on  tiie  iNortii  I'ork,  and, 
(inilini,'  it  inipossihle  to  |)roi'('('d,  liad  taken 
ii|)  hi»  sniniiii^r's  residence  on  this  island, 
which  he  liad  named  St.  Helena.  The 
river  iiiils  appeared  to  be  composed  entirely 
of  8and,  and  tiie  I'latle  iiad  lost  the  nuiddy 
character  of  its  waters,  and  iiere  was  toler- 
nhly  clear.  From  the  month  of  the  South 
fork,  I  had  found  it  occa.si()nally  hroken  up 
by  small  islands;  aixl  at  the  time  of  our 
journey,  which  was  at  a  season  of  the  year 
wlien  the  waters  were  at  a  favorahlo  stacje. 
it  was  not  navijjahle  for  anythinif  drawing,' 
si'c  inches  water.  Tiie  current  was  very 
«w  ift  — tlie  hed  of  the  stream  a  coarse  fffiivei. 

From  tiie  place  at  wiii(  ii  we  had  encoun- 
tered the  Arapalioes,  tlie  Platte  liad  been 
lnlerai)ly  well  irinijed  wiih  tiiiil)er,  and  tlie 
islaiiiJ  hero  liad  a  line  (^rove  of  very  lar;j;e 
('•,oUon-woo<is,  under  whoso  broad  shade  the 
t^iits  were  pilclied.  There  was  a  hirrre 
ilrove  of  horses  in  the  opposite  pmirie  bot- 
tom ;  smoke  was  risinij  from  tlie  scattered 
tires,  and  the  encampment,  liad  (piito  a  pa- 
triarchal air.  Mr.  (J.  received  us  liospita- 
hly.  One  of  tlio  people  was  sent  to  (riit'ier 
mint,  with  the  aid  of  which  he  concocted 
very  good  julep ;  and  some  boiled  bulliilo 
tongue,  and  colVee  wilii  the  luxury  of  sugar, 
were  soon  set  before  us.  'J'he  people  in  liis 
employ  were  generally  Spaniards,  and 
among  them  I  saw  a  young  Spanish  woman 
from  Taos,  whom  I  found  to  be  Beckwith's 
wife. 

July  10. — We  parted  with  our  hospitable 
host  alter  breakfast  the  ne.xt  morning,  and 
reached  St.  Vrain's  Fort,  about  forty-tive 
miles  from  St.  Helena,  late  in  the  evening. 
This  post  is  situated  on  the  South  fork  of 
the  Platte,  immediately  under  the  moun- 
tains, about  seventeen  miles  east  of  Long's 
peak.  It  is  on  the  right  bank,  on  the  verge 
of  the  upland  prairie,  about  forty  feet  above 
the  river,  of  which  the  immediate  valley  is 
about  six  liundred  yards  wide.  The  stream 
is  divided  into  various  branches  by  small 
islands,  among  which  it  runs  with  a  swift 
current.  The  bed  of  the  river  is  sand  and 
gravel,  the  water  very  clear,  and  liero  may 
be  called  a  mountain  stream.  This  region 
appears  to  be  entirely  free  from  the  lime- 
stones and  marls  which  give  to  the  Lower 
Platte  its  yellow  and  dirty  color.  The  Black 
hills  lie  between  the  stream  and  the  moun- 
tains, whose  snowy  peaks  glitter  a  few 
miles  beyond.  At  the  tort  we  found  Mr.  St. 
Vrain,  who  received  us  with  much  kindness 
and  hospitality.  Maxwell  had  spent  the  last 
two  or  three  years  between  this  post  and  the 
village  of  Taos ;  and  here  he  was  at  home, 
and  among  his  friends.   Spaniards  frequeiitlv 


come  over  in  search  of  employment ;  and 
several  came  in  shortly  after  our  arrival. 
'I'hey  Usually  ohlaiii  iilxjiit  six  dollars  a 
month,  generally  paid  to  them  in  goods. 
They  are  very  uscfid  in  a  camp,  in  taking 
care  of  hor^'es  and  mules ;  and  I  engagt'd 
one,  who  proved  to  be  an  acti  e,  laborioui 
man,  and  was  of  very  consideraide  service 
to  me.  The  elevation  of  the  Platte  here  ii 
five  thousand  four  hundred  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  neighboring  nKUintams  did  not 
appear  to  enter  far  the  region  of  perjietual 
snow,  which  was  generally  confined  to  the 
northern  side  of  the  peaks.  On  the  south- 
ern, 1  remarked  very  little.  Here  it  appear- 
ed, so  far  as  I  could  judge  in  the  distance, 
to  descend  but  a  few  liundred  feet  below  the 
summits. 

I  regretted  that  time  did  not  permit  me  to 
visit  them;  but  the  proper  object  of  my  sur- 
vey lay  among  the  mountains  further  north  ; 
and  i  looked  forward  to  an  exploration  ot 
their  snowy  recesses  with  great  pleasure. 
The  piney  region  of  the  mountains  to  the 
south  was  enveloped  in  smoke,  and  I  was 
informed  had  been  on  fire  for  several  months. 
Pike's  peak  is  said  to  be  visible  from  fliis 
place,  about  one  hundred  miles  to  the  south 
ward  ;  hut  the  smoky  state  of  the  atmosphei-e 
prevented  my  seeing  it.  The  weather  con- 
tinued overcast  during  my  stay  here,  so  that 
I  failed  in  determining  the  latitude,  but  ob- 
tained good  observations  for  lime  on  the 
mornings  of  the  lltli  and  I'Jth.  An  assum- 
ed latitude  of  40°  •2i'  30"  from  the  evening 
position  of  the  1 2th,  enabled  me  to  obtain, 
for  a  tolerably  correct  longitude,  105^  lii' 
12". 

Jtihj  12. — The  kindness  of  Mr.  St.  Vrain 
had  enabled  me  to  obtai.  a  couple  of  horses 
anJ  three  good  mules;  and,  with  a  further 
addition  to  our  jiarty  of  the  Spaniard  whom 
I  had  hired,  and  two  others,  who  were  going 
to  obtain  service  at  Laramie's  fork,  we  re- 
sumed our  journey  at  10,  on  the  morning  of 
the  Pith.  We  had  been  able  to  procure 
nothing  at  the  post,  in  the  way  of  provision. 
An  expected  supply  from  Taos  had  not  yet 
arrived,  and  a  few  pounds  of  cofTee  was  all 
that  could  be  spared  to  us.  In  addition  to 
this,  wo  had  dried  meat  enough  for  the  first 
day ;  on  the  next,  we  expected  to  find  buf- 
falo. From  this  post,  according  to  the  esti- 
mate of  the  country,  the  fort  at  the  mouth 
of  Laramie's  fork,  which  was  our  next 
point  of  destination,  was  nearly  due  north, 
distant  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
miles. 

For  a  short  distance,  our  road  lay  down 
the  valley  of  the  Platte,  which  resembled  a 
garden  in  the  splendor  of  fields  of  varieQ 
flowers,  which  filled  the  air  with  fragrance. 
The  only  timber  I  noticed,  consisted  of  po 
lar,    birch,  cotton-wood,   and   willow. 


t 


i:. 


[184U 


iirdi  of  omplovinont ;   mid 
M  sliortly  iiflcr  our   arrival. 
ol)t:iin    iilK)iit   six   (liilliirH    a 
y    paiil    to   llifin    in   poods, 
isi'liil  in  !i  cam)),  in  tiikinj; 
iinil  iniiins ;   and   I  cntrapi'd 
1  to  bv  iin  acti  f>,  lahorioua 
of  very  considoralde  .icrvire 
vation  of  till-  I'hitto  Iiltc  i.i 
iiir   liiindiod  foct  al)ovp  the 
i.'lil)orin<r  nioiintains  did  not 
tiir  tiio  region  of  iierpettial 
lis  frunorally  contint'd  to  tho 
f  the  peaks.     On  the  south- 
very  little.     Here  it  appear- 
couid  jiidire  in  the  distanre, 
a  few  liundrod  feet  below  the 

int  time  did  not  permit  me  to 
the  proper  ohject  of  my  siir- 
the  mountains  further  nortli ; 
brward  to  an  e.xploration  ot 
■cesses  with  jjreat  pleasure, 
ion  of  the  mountains  to  tho 
■eloped  in  smoke,  and  I  was 
een  on  fire  for  several  months, 
said  to  1)0  visible  from  fliia 
le  hundred  miles  to  the  south 
MHoky  state  of  the  atmosphei-e 
seeinir  it.  The  weather  con- 
t  during  my  stay  here,  so  that 
erminini;  the  latitude,  but  ob- 
ihservations  for  (jme  on  tho 
le  lull  and  12tli.  An  assiim- 
40°  -J-J'  30"  from  tho  evening 
3  12th,  enabled  me  to  obtain, 
y  correct  longitude,  105°  12' 

^'lio  kindness  of  Mr.  St.  Vrain 
10  to  obta!.  a  couple  of  horses 
)d  mules;  and,  with  a  further 
r  jiarty  of  the  Spaniard  whom 
id  two  others,  who  were  going 
ce  at  Laramie's  fork,  wo  rc- 
irney  at  10,  on  the  morning  of 
'^e   had  been  able  to  procure 

post,  in  the  way  of  provision, 
iupply  from  Taos  had  not  y(?t 

few  pounds  of  coflee  was  all 
spared  to  us.  In  addition  to 
Tied  meat  enough  for  the  first 
ip.xt,  we  expected  to  find  biif- 
his  post,  according  to  the  esti- 
ountry,  the  fort  at  the  mouth 
fork,  which  was  our  next 
nation,  was  nearly  due  nortli, 

one  hundred  and  twenty-five 

t  distance,  our  road  lay  down 
the  I'latte,  which  resembled  a 
e  splendor  of  fields  of  varied 
li  filled  the  air  with  fragrance. 
ber  I  noticed,  consisted  of  pop- 
otton-wood,  and  willow.      Id 


1842.] 


r.VPT.  FUK.MONT'S  N.\Rll.\TIVi:. 


3) 


something  loss  than  three  miles,  we  crossed 
Thompson's  creek,  one  of  the  aliliienls  to  the 
left  hank  of  the  South  fork — ii  line  stream 
about  sixty-live  feet  wide,  and  throe  feet 
deep.  Joiirnoying  on,  the  low  dark  lino  of 
the  Illack  hills  lyiii^f  hetween  us  and  the 
mountains  to  the  li>it,  in  aUiiit  ten  miles 
from  the  fort,  we  reached  Citclif  a  In  I'uiiJri; 
where  we  halted  to  noon.  Tlii.-t  is  a  very 
beautiful  mountain  stream,  about  one  hun- 
dred leet  wide,  (lowiiiif  with  a  full  swift  cur- 
rent over  a  rocky  bed.  We  hailed  under 
the  shade  of  .some  cotton-woods,  with  which 
the  stream  is  wooded  scatteringly.  In  the 
upper  part  of  its  course,  it  runs  amid  the 
wildest  mountain  scenery,  and,  breaking 
through  the  Black  liill.s,  falls  into  the  I'latte 
about  ten  miles  below  this  place.  In  the 
course  of  our  late  journey,  1  had  managed 
to  become  the  possessor  of  a  very  iintracta- 
ble  mule — a  perfect  vi.xen — and  her  I  had 
turned  over  to  my  Spaniard.  It  occupied  us 
*boiit  half  an  hour  to-day  to  get  the  saddle 
apon  her;  but,  once  on  her  hack,  Josi  could 
not  be  dismounted,  realizing  the  accounts 
given  of  Mexican  horses  and  horsemanship  ; 
and  we  continued  our  route  in  tho  after- 
noon. 

At  evening,  wc  encamped  on  Crow  (?) 
creek,  having  travelled  about  twenty-eight 
miles.  None  of  the  jiarty  were  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  country,  and  I  had  great 
dilficulty  in  ascertaining  what  were  the 
names  of  the  streams  we  crossed  between 
the  North  and  South  forks  of  the  I'latte. 
This  I  supposed  to  be  Crow  creek.  It  is 
what  is  called  a  salt  stream,  and  the  water 
stands  in  pools,  having  no  continuous  course. 
A  fine-grained  sandstone  made  its  ap|)ear- 
ance  in  the  banks.  The  observations  of  the 
night  placed  us  in  latitude  40o  42',  longi- 
tude 104°  67'  49".  The  barometer  at  sun- 
set was  25.231  ;  attached  thermometer  at 
6C°.  Sky  clear,  except  in  the  east,  with  a 
light  wind  from  the  north. 

Julij  13. — There  being  no  wood  hero,  we 
used  last  night  the  bois  de  vache,  which  is 
very  plentiful.  At  our  camp  this  morning, 
the  barometer  was  at  25.235  ;  the  attached 
thermometer  60°.  A  few  clouds  were  mov- 
ing through  a  deep  blue  sky,  with  a  light 
wind  Irom  the  west.  After  a  ride  of  twelve 
miles,  in  a  northerly  direction,  over  a  plain 
covered  with  innumerable  quantities  of  cacti., 
we  reached  a  small  creek  in  which  there  was 
water,  and  where  several  herds  of  bufialo 
were  scattered  about  among  the  ravines, 
which  always  atibrd  good  pasturage.  We 
seem  now  to  be  passing  along  the  base  of  a 
plateau  of  the  Black  hills,  in  which  the  for- 
mation consists  of  marls,  some  of  them  white 
and  laminated  ;  the  country  to  the  left  rising 
suddenly,  and  falling  oil"  gradually  and  uni- 
formly to  tlie  right.    In  five  cr  six  miles  of 


a  northeasterly  course,  wo  struck  a  liigh 
ridge,  broki'ii  into  conical  |K'iiks,  on  whose 
siimuiitH  largo  boulders  were  gathered  in 
heaps.  The  magnetic  direction  of  tli(>  ridge 
is  northwest  and  southeast,  the  glittering 
white  of  its  precipitous  sides  making  it  visihie 
for  many  miles  to  the  south.  It  is  composed 
of  a  solt  earthy  limestone  and  marls,  resein- 
hling  that,  hereafter  described,  in  the  neigh- 
l)orho(Kl  of  the  Chimney  rock,  on  tho  North 
fork  of  the  I'latte,  easily  worked  tiy  the  winds 
and  rains,  and  sometimes  moulded  into  very 
fantastic  shapes.  At  the  foot  of  the  northern 
slope  was  the  bed  of  a  crock,  some  forty  feet 
wide,  coming,  by  frequent  falls,  from  the 
bench  alKive.  It  was  shut  in  by  high  per- 
[loiidicular  hank.s,  in  which  were  strata  of 
white  laminated  marl.  \U  bed  was  p<'rlectly 
dry,  and  the  leading  feature  of  the  whole  re- 
gion is  one  of  remarkable  aridity,  and  perfect 
Ireedoin  from  moisture.  In  alioiit  six  miles 
wo  crossed  tho  bed  of  another  dry  creek ;  and, 
continuing  our  ride  over  a  high  level  prairie, 
a  little  lielbre  sundown  we  came  suddenly 
ii|X)n  a  beautiful  creek,  which  revived  ns 
with  a  feeling  of  delighted  surprise  by  the 
pleasant  contrast  of  tho  deep  verdure  of  its 
hanks  with  the  parched  desert  we  had  passed. 
We  had  sutlered  much  to-day,  both  men  and 
horses,  for  want  of  water;  having  met  with 
it  but  once  in  our  uninterrupted  march  of 
forty  'nilos,  and  an  exclusive  meat  diet  cre- 
ates much  thirst. 

"  L«s  lirslias  linien  murha  hambrv"  said 
the  young  Spaniard,  inquiringly  ;  "  y  lat^eiite 
laml.irn,"  said  I,  '^ amiifo,  we'll  camp  hero." 
A  stream  of  good  and  clear  water  ran  wind- 
ing aUiut  through  the  little  valley,  and  a 
herd  of  buffalo  were  quietly  feeding  a  little 
distance  below.  It  was  quite  a  hunter's  pa- 
radise ;  and  while  some  ran  down  toward  the 
band  to  kill  one  for  supper,  others  collected 
hnis  lie  vache  for  a  fire,  there  being  no  wood ; 
and  I  amused  myself  with  huntl.ig  for  plants 
among  the  grass. 

It  will  bo  seen,  by  occasional  remarks  on 
the  geological  formation,  that  the  constitu- 
ents of  the  soil  in  these  regions  are  good, 
and  every  day  served  to  strengthen  the  im- 
pression in  my  mind,  confirmed  by  subse- 
quent observation,  that  the  barren  appear- 
ance of  the  country  is  due  almost  entirely  to 
the  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate.  Along 
our  route,  the  country  had  seemed  to  increase 
constantly  in  elevation.  According  to  the 
indication  of  the  barometer,  we  wore  at  our 
encampment  5,440  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  evening  was  very  clear,  with  a  fresh 
breeze  from  the  south,  60"  east.  The  ban)- 
meter  at  sunset  was  24.862,  the  thermometer 
attached  showing  68".  I  supposed  this  to 
be  a  fork  of  Ixidge  I'olo  creek,  so  far  as  I 
could  determine  from  our  uncertahi  means 
of  mlormaUon.     Astronomical  ooservotionfl 


n 


CAl'T.  FRK.MONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


842. 


gave  for  the  camp  a  loniriludo  of  104°  39' 
37",and  latitude  41°  08  M". 

Jiili/  14. — The  wind  coiitintied  frcsli  from 
tlio  Hunie  quarter  in  the  morninij ;  the  day 
beinnr  clear,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
cloud.'*  in  the  horizon.  At  our  camp  at  (i 
o'clock,  tlic  hei<rht  of  the  baroineier  wan 
24.830,  the  attached  thermometer  01°  Our 
course  thi.-i  morninij  wan  directly  norlli  hy 
compass,  the  variation  being  15°  or  l(i°  east- 
erly. A  ride  of  four  miles  broufjht  us  to 
Lodjre  I'ole  creek,  which  we  had  fceu  at  its 
mouth  on  the  South  fork  ;  cros.-iiuf:  on  the 
way  two  dry  streams,  in  eifrhteen  miles  from 
our  encampment  of  the  past  ni;rht,  we  reach- 
ed a  liiprli  bleak  ridfje,  composed  entirely  of 
the  same  earthy  limestone  and  marl  previ- 
ously described.  I  had  never  seen  anythinir 
which  impressed  so  stronjily  on  my  mind  a 
feelinir  of  desolation.  The  valley,  thnnifrh 
which  ran  the  waters  of  Horse  creek,  lay  in 
view  to  the  north,  but  too  far  to  have  any  in- 
fluence on  the  immediate  view.  On  the  peak 
of  t'  0  ridjre  where  I  was  standing',  some  si,\ 
or  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  the 
wind  was  high  and  bleak ;  the  barren  and 
arid  country  seemed  as  if  it  had  been  swejit 
by  fires,  and  in  every  direction  the  same  dull 
ash-colored  liue,  derived  from  the  formation, 
met  the  eye.  On  the  summits  were  some 
Blunted  pinest,  many  of  them  dead,  all  wear- 
ing the  same  ashen  hue  of  desolation.  We 
left  the  place  with  pleasure  ;  and,  after  w(> 
had  descended  several  hundred  feet,  lialted 
in  one  of  the  ravines,  which,  at  the  distance 
of  every  mile  or  two,  cut  the  flanks  of  the 
ridge  with  little  rushing  streams,  wearing 
something  of  a  mountain  character.  Wc 
had  already  begun  to  exchange  the  compara- 
tively barren  lands  for  those  of  a  more  fertile 
character.  Though  the  sandstone  formed  the 
broken  banks  of  the  creek,  yet  they  were 
covered  with  a  thin  grass ;  and  the  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  which  formed  the  bottom  land  of 
the  little  stream  were  clothed  with  very  lu.\u- 
riant  grass,  among  which  I  remarked  willow 
and  cherry  {cerasus  ririiiiiiaiia)  ;  and  a 
quantity  of  gooseberry  and  currant  bushes 
occupied  the  greater  part. 

The  creek  was  three  or  four  feet  broad, 
and  about  six  inches  deep,  with  a  swift  cur- 
rent of  clear  water,  and  tolerably  cool.  We 
liad  struck  it  too  low  down  to  lind  the  cold 
water,  which  we  should  have  enjoyed  nearer 
to  its  sources.  At  2,  p.  m.,  the  barometer 
was  at  25.060,  the  attached  thermometer 
104°.  A  day  of  hot  sunshine,  with  clouds, 
and  moderate  breeze  from  the  south.  Con- 
tinuing down  the  stream,  in  about  four  miles 
we  reached  its  mouth,  at  one  of  the  main 
branches  of  Horse  creek.  Looking  back 
upon  the  ridge,  whose  direction  appeared  to 
be  a  little  to  the  north  of  east,  we  saw  it 
Beamed  at  frequcj;  intervals  with  the  dark 


lines  of  wooded  streams,  aflhient.'f  of  tr*  river 
that  flowed  so  far  as  we  could  see  along  its 
base.  We  crossed,  in  the  space  of  twelve 
miles  Irom  our  iii>on  halt,  three  or  four  forks 
of  Horse  creek,  and  encamjied  at  sunset  on 
the  most  easterly. 

The  fork  on  which  we  encairped  appeared 
to  have  followed  r.ii  easterly  direction  up  to 
this  place  ;  hut  hero  it  makes  a  very  sudden 
bend    to   the   north,   parsing   between    two 
ranges  of  precipitous  hills,  called,  as   I  was 
informed,  (loslienV   hole.      There  is  some- 
where in  or  near  this  locality  a  place  so  call- 
ed, but  I  am  not  certain  that  it  was  the  place 
of  our  encampment.     Looking  back    upon 
the  spot,  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  to  tlie 
northward,  the  hills   appear  to  shut  in  the 
prairie,  through  which  runs  the  creek,  with 
a  semi-circular  sweep,  which  might  very  na- 
turally be  called  a  iiole   in  the  hills.     The 
geological  composition  of  the  ridge  is  the 
same  which  constitutes  the  rock  of  the  Court- 
house and  Cliiniiiey,  on  the  North  fork,  which 
appeared  to  me  a  continuation  of  this  ridge. 
The  winds  and  rains  work  this  formation  into 
a  variety  of  singular  forms.     The  pass  into 
(ioshen's  hole  is  about  two  miles  wide,  and 
the  hill  on  the  western  side  imitates,  in  an 
extraordinary   manner,   a   massive    fortified 
place,  with  a  remarkable  fulness  of  detail, 
'i'he  rock  is  marl  and  earthy  limestone,  white, 
without  the  least  appearance  of  vegetation, 
and  much  resembles  masonry  at  a  little  dis- 
tance ;  and    here  it  sweeps  around    a  level 
area  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  diameter, 
and  in  the  form  of  a  half  moon,  terrninjiting 
on   either  extremity  in  enormous  bastions. 
Along  the  whole  line  of  the  jiarapets  appear 
domes   and  slender  minarets,  forty  or   lifty 
leet  high,  giving  it  every  appearance  of  an 
old  fortified  town.     On  the  waters  of  White 
river,  whore  this  formation  e.\ists  in  great 
extent,  it  presents  appearances  which  excite 
the  admiration  of  the  solitary  voyageur,  and 
form  a  frequent  theme  of  their  conversation 
when  speaking  of  the  wonders  of  the  coun- 
try.    Sometimes  it  offers  the  perfectly  illu- 
sive appearance  of  a  large  ciiy,  with  nume- 
rous streets  and  magnificent  buildings,  among 
which  the  Canadians  .iCver  fail  to  see  their 
cabaret ;  and  sometimes  it  takes  the  form  of 
a  solitary  house,  with  many  large  chambers, 
into  which  they  drive  their  horses  at  night, 
and  sleep  in  these  natural  defences  perfectly 
secure  from  any  attack  of  prowling  savagen. 
Before  reaching  our  camp  at  Goshen's  hole, 
in  crossing  the  immense  detritus  at  the  foot 
of  the  Castle  rock,  we  were  involved  amidst 
winding  passages  cut  by  the  waters  of  the 
hill ;    and  wlif  re,  with   a   breadth   scarcely 
large  enough  for  the  passage  of  a  horse,  the 
walls  rise  tliirty  and  forty  feet  perpendicular- 
ly.    This  formation  supplies  the  discoloration 
of  the  Platte.     At  sunset,  the  height  of  the 


1843.] 


lUg 


the 


,'K. 


842. 


1842.] 


CAl'T.  nii:.M()NTS  NAUU.M'IVK. 


ai 


FlronniM,  nfllimtit.s  of  ttit  river 
Ur  its  we  eoulil  see  aUinjj  its 
ssed,  ill  tiie  spiiee  of  twelve 
iiiioii  Imlt,  three  or  four  forks 
,  ami  encamped  at  sunset  on 

,vliicli  we  onrairped  ajipeared 
[1  an  ea.iterly  direction  up  to 
here  it  makes  a  very  siiiideii 
lortii,   paK-<inf^   l)etween    two 
jiitous  hiUn,  called,  as  I  wa.s 
len'f-   hole.      There  is  some- 
ir  thi.s  locality  a  place  so  call- 
it  certain  that  it  was  the  place 
iiiient.     Looking  back    upon 
distance  of  a  few  miles  to  the 
hills   appear  to  shut  in  the 
1  which  runs  the  creek,  with 
sweep,  wiiich  might  very  na- 
'd  a  iiole   in  the  hills.     The 
(position  of  the  ridpe  is  the 
[istitutes  the  rock  of  the  Court- 
iiney,  on  the  North  fork,  which 
c  a  continuation  of  this  ridije. 
rains  work  liiis  formation  into 
ngular  forms.     The  pass  into 
is  about  two  mile.?  w^ide,  and 
?  western  side  imitates,  in  an 
manner,   a   massive    lortiiied 
remarkable  fulness  of  detail, 
irl  and  earthy  limestone,  white, 
?ast  appearance  of  vejretation, 
imbles  masonry  at  a  little  dis- 
pro   it  sweeps  around    a  level 
ree  hundred  yards  in  diameter, 
n  of  a  half  moon,  terminating 
remily  in  enormous  bastions. 
nle  line  of  the  parapets  appear 
lender  minarets,  forty  or   lifty 
mg  it  every  appearance  of  an 
wn.     On  the  waters  of  White 
this  formation  exists  in  {;reat 
ents  appearances  wliich  excite 
)  of  the  solitary  voyageur,  and 
nt  theme  of  their  conversation 
a  of  the  wonders  of  the  coun- 
nes  it  oflers  the  perfectly  illu- 
ce  of  a  large  ciiy,  with  nume- 
id  magnilicent  buildings,  among 
nadians  Viever  fail  to  see  their 
sometimes  it  takes  the  form  of 
ise,  with  many  large  chambers, 
ley  drive  their  horses  at  night, 
these  natural  defences  perfectly 
iny  attack  of  prowling  savagen. 
ng  our  camp  at  Goshen's  hole, 
he  immense  detritus  at  the  foot 
rock,  we  were  involved  amidst 
sages  cut  by  the  waters  of  the 
l^re,  with   a   breadth   scarcely 
1  for  the  passage  of  a  horse,  the 
irty  and  forty  feet  perpendicular- 
mation  supplies  the  discoloration 
.     At  sunset,  the  height  of  the 


mercurial  coliuuii  was  •jrj.SOO,  the  atlached 
thermometer  80",  and  wind  moderate  Iro'ii 
S.  38°  K.  Clouds  covered  the  sky  with  the 
rise  of  the  moon,  hut  1  succeeded  in  obtain- 
inir  the  usual  astriuioiiiical  observations, 
which  placul  us  in  lalitiule  -11°  40'  13", and 
longitude  101° -J  I'  ;i»J". 

July  I.J.— At  (i  this  morning,  the  barome- 
ter was  at  2i).  Jl.O,  the  thermometer  Tl° ;  the 
day  was  line,  with  some  clouds  looking  dark 
on  Die  south,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the 
same  quarter.     We  found  that  in  our  jour- 
ney across  the    country    we    had    kept  too 
much  to  the  eastward.  'J'his  morning,  accord- 
ingly, wo  travelled  by  compass  some  15  or 
20    to  tlio  west  of  north,  and   st^ruck    the 
Platte  soiiu!  thirteen  miles  below  Fort  Lara- 
mie.    The   day   was   extremely    hot,     and 
amouT  the  hills  the  wind  seemed  to  have 
just  is'sued  Irom  an  oven.     Our  horses  were 
much  distressed,  as  we  hail  travelled  hard  ; 
and  it  was  with   some  dilliculty  that  they 
were  all  brought  to  the  Platte  ;  which  we 
reached  at  1  o'clock.     In  riding  in  towards 
the  river,  we  louiul  the  trail  of  our  carts, 
which  appeared  to  have  passed  a  day  or  two 
since* 

After  having  -  iwed  our  animals  two 
hours  for  foo(l  and  repose,  we  resumed  inir 
journey,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  day 
came  in  sight  of  Laramie's  fork.  Issuing 
from  the  river  hills,  we  came  first  in  view  ot 
Fort  Platte,  a  po'^t  belonging  to  Messrs  fey- 
billc,  Adams  &-  Co.,  situated  immediately  in 
the  point  of  laud  at  the  junction  ot  Laramie 
with  the  Platte.  Like  the  post  we  had  visited 
on  the  South  fork,  it  was  built  ot  earth,  and 
still  unlinisbed,  being  enclosed  with  wall.s 
(or  rather  houses)  on  three  of  tlie  sides,  and 
open  on  the  fourth  to  the  river.  A  lew  hun- 
dred yards  brought  us  in  view  of  the  jiost  ot 
the   American  Fur  Company,   called   l-ort 


John,  or  Laramie.     This  was  a  large  post, 
having  more  the  air  of  military  construction 
than  tlic  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.     It 
is  on  the  left  bank,  on  a  rising  ground  some 
twenty-live  feet  above  the  water;  and   its 
lofty  walls,  whitewashed  and  picketed,  with 
tlie  lar<'e  bastions  at  the  angles,  gave  it  quite 
an   imposing   appearance   in  the  uncertain 
light  of  evening.     A  cluster  of  lodges,  which 
the  lan-ruage  told  us  belonged  to  Sioux  Indi- 
ans, was  pitched  under  the  walls,  and,  with 
tlie  fine  back  ground  of  the  Black  hills  and 
tlie  prominent  peak  of  Laramie  mountain, 
strongly  drawn  in  the  clear  light  of  the  west- 
em  sky,  where  the  sun  had  already  set,  tlic 
whole  formed  at  the  moment  a  strikingly 
beautiful  picture.     From  the  company  at  St. 
Louis  I  had  letters   for   Mr.  Boudeau,  the 
gentleman  in  charge  of  the  post,  by  whom  1 
was  received  with  great  hospitality  and  an 
efficient  kindness,  which  was  invaluable  to 
me  during  my  stay  in  the  country.    1  lound 


iiiir  people  encamped  on  the  bai  *,  a  short 
dislaiuc  above  the  f.nt.  All  were  well: 
and,  ill  the  eninyiucnt  oi  a  bouiiti'.iil  supper, 
which  coll'ee  and  breail  made  li..\urious  to  us, 
we  soon  forgot  the  fatigues  of  the  last  ten 
days. 

Jidi/  10.— I  found  that,  during  my  absence, 
the  situation  cf  all'airs  had  undergone  some 
cliauge  ;  and  the  usual  quit  t  and  Sv;mewh*t 
moiurtouous  regularity  ol  the  camp  Imd  given 
place  to  exiiieiuent  and  alarm.  The  cir- 
cumstances which  occasiiuied  this  i  baiige 
will  be  lound  narrated  in  the  following  e.K- 
tract  I'ldiii  the  louriial  of  Mr.  Preuss,  which 
commences  with  the  day  of  our  separation 
on  the  South  fork  of  the  Platte. 

ExtrucI  J'rom  ihejimrnd  if  Mr.  I'rciiss. 

'\j„l,j  Ci. — We  crossed  the  plateau  or  high- 
land between  the  two   forks   in   about   six 
hours.     I  let  my  horse  go  as  slow  as  he 
liked,  to  iiuleiuiiil'y  us  both  for  the  previous 
hardship;  and  about  noon  we   reached  the 
North    fork.     There  was  no  sign  that  our 
party  had    passed ;   we    rode,   tlicre!ore,   to 
some  pine  trees,  unsaddled  the  horses,  and 
stretched  (}ur  limbs  on  the   grass,  awaiting 
the  arrival  of  our  company.     After  remain- 
ing here  two  hours,  my  companion  became 
iuqiatieiit,  mounted  his  hor.se  again,  and  rode 
oil' down  the  river  to  see  if  he  could  discover 
our  people.     1  felt  so  inarode  yet,  that  it  was 
a  horrible  idea  to  me  to  bestride  thai  saddle 
again  ;  so  I  lay  still.     I  knew  they  could  not 
come  any  other  way,  and  then  my   compa- 
nion, one  of  the  best  men  of  the  company, 
would    not   abandon    me.      The    sun    went 
down  ;  he  did  not  come.     Uneasy  I  did   not 
feel,  but  very  hungry  ;  I  had  no  provisions, 
but  1  could  make  a  tire ;  and  as  I  espied  two 
doves  in  a  tree,  I  tried  to  kill  one  ;  but  it 
needs  a  better  marksman  than  myself  to  kill 
a  little  bird  with  a  rifle.     1  made  a  large 
tire,   however,   lighted   my  pipe— this  true 
friend   of  mine   in    every    emergency— lay 
down,  and  let  my  thoughts  wander  to  the  far 
east.     It  was  not  many  minutes  after  when 
I  heard  the  tramp  of  a  horse,  and  my  faithful 
companion  was  by  my  side.     He  had  found 
the  party,  who  had  been  delayed  by  making 
their  cache,  about  seven  miles  below.     To 
the  good  supper  which  ho  brought  with  him 
I  did  ample  justice.     He  had  forgotten  salt, 
and  I  tried  the  soldier's  substitute  in  time  of 
war,  and  used  gunpowder  ;  but  it  answered 
badly— bitter  tnougli,  but  no  llavor  of  kitchen 
salt.     I  slept  well ;  and  was  only  disturbed 
by  two  owls,  which  were  attracted  by  the 
lire,  and  took  their  place  in  the  tree  under 
which  we   slept.     Their  music  seemed  aa 
di-sagreeable  to  my  companion  as  to  myself ; 
ho  iTred  his  rifle  twice,  and  then  ihey  let  \u 
alone. 


CAPT.  FIIH.MONT'S  N'ARRA'I'lVi:. 


11842 


18J2.] 


"  Jiiiy  7. — At  about  10  o'clock,  tho  party 
arrived ;  and  \v»>  ('(intiiiiu'd  our  journey 
throufrli  ii  country  wliicli  otli'rod  but  little  to 
interuBt  tliu  tniveller.  'I'lie  noil  wan  much 
more  Kiiiidy  tliiiii  in  tlip  valley  below  the  con- 
lluencu  ol  llu!  forks,  and  the  liici!  ol'  the 
country  no  lon^'er  (iroHented  the  refrcjdiinjj 
preen  which  had  liilhcrlo  characterized  it. 
I'lie  rich  ffra.-is  was  now  found  ordy  in  difi- 
pcrsi'd  Hpotn,  M\  low  grounds,  and  on  th(> 
Wtoni  land  of  tho  streams.  A  loii;f  droufjht, 
joined  to  extreme  heat,  had  ho  parched  up 
tho  upper  prairies,  that  they  were  in  many 
places  bald,  or  covered  only  with  a  thin 
prowth  of  yellow  and  poor  jirass.  The  na- 
ture of  the  soil  renders  it  extremely  wuscep- 
tiblo  to  the  vicistitudes  of  the  climate.  Ue- 
tween  the  forks,  and  from  their  junction  to 
the  ISIack  hill.-<,  the  formation  consists  of 
marl  and  a  soft  earthy  linujstone,  with  prani- 
tic  sandstone.  Such  a  formation  cainiot  {five 
rise  to  a  sterile  soil ;  and,  on  our  return  in 
Septendier,  when  the  country  had  been  wa- 
tered by  lre(iuent  rains,  the  valley  of  tho 
Platte  looked  like  a  i;arilen ;  so  rich  was  the 
verdure  of  the  frrasses,  and  so  luxuriant  the 
bloom  of  abtnidant  tlowers.  Tho  wild  sap;p 
begins  to  make  its  appearance,  and  tindjor 
is  80  scarce  that  we  generally  made  our  lires 
3f  the  Ixiis  lie  mchc.  With  the  exception  of 
now  and  then  an  isolated  tree  or  two,  stand- 
ing like  a  li;,'ht-house  on  the  river  bank, 
tliere  is  none  whatever  to  be  seen. 

"  Jidi/  8. — Our  road  to-day  was  a  solitary 
one.  No  paine  made  its  appearance — not 
even  a  bullalo  or  a  stray  antelope;  and 
nothing  occurred  to  break  the  monotony 
until  about  5  o'clock,  when  the  caravan 
made  a  sudden  halt.  'J'licre  was  a  galloping 
in  of  scouts  and  horsemen  from  every  side — 
a  hurrying  to  and  fro  in  noisy  confusion ; 
riHes  were  taken  from  their  cover ;  bullet 
pouches  examined  :  in  short,  there  was  the 
cry  of  '  Indians,'  heard  again.  I  had  be- 
come so  much  accustomed  to  these  alarms, 
that  now  they  made  but  little  impression  on 
me  ;  and  bef()re  I  had  time  to  become  excited, 
the  new  comers  were  ascertained  to  be 
whites.  It  was  a  large  party  of  traders  and 
trappers,  conductod  by  Mr.  Bridger,  a  man 
well  known  in  the  history  of  the  country. 
As  the  sun  was  low,  and  there  was  a  fine 
gniss  patch  not  far  aheiid,  they  turned  back 
and  encamped  for  the  night  with  us.  Mr. 
Bridger  was  invited  to  supper  ;  and,  after  the 
tabic  cloth  was  removed,  we  listened  with 
eager  interest  to  an  account  of  their  adven- 
tures. What  they  had  met,  we  would  be 
likely  to  encounter ;  the  chances  which  had 
befallen  them,  would  probably  happen  to  us ; 
and  we  looked  upon  their  life  as  a  picture 
of  our  own.  He  informed  us  that  the  con- 
dition of  the  country  had  become  exceeding- 
ly uangerous.     The  Sioux,  who  had  been 


badly  disponed,  had  broken  out  into  open 
hostility,  aud  in  the  preceding  aiitunui  his 
party  had  encountered  them  in  a  severe  en- 
gagenu'ut,  in  which  a  nundMT  of  lives  had 
been  lost  on  both  sides.  United  with  the 
I'heyenne  and  (Jros  Ventre  Indians,  they 
were  scouring  the  upjier  coun'ry  in  war  par- 
ties of  great  torce,  and  were  at  this  time  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Rvd  Uiilli  s,  a  fa- 
mous landmark,  which  Aas  directly  on  our 
|)ath.  They  had  declared  war  U|xjn  every 
living  tiling  which  should  Im^  lound  westward 
of  that  |)oint',  though  their  main  object  was 
to  attack  a  large  camp  of  whites  ami  Snake 
Indians,  who  had  a  rende/.vous  in  the  Sweet 
Water  valley.  Availing  himself  of  his  inti- 
mate knowledge  of  tlu;  country,  he  had 
reached  Laramie  by  an  unusual  route  through 
the  Black  hills,  and  avoided  coming  into 
contact  with  any  of  the  scattered  parties, 
'i'his  gentleman  ollered  his  services  to  ac- 
company us  so  far  as  the  head  of  the  Sweet 
Water  ;  hut  the  absence  of  our  leader,  which 
was  deeply  regretted  by  us  all,  rendered  il 
impossible  for  us  to  enter  upon  such  ar- 
rangements. In  a  canij)  consisting  of  men 
whose  lives  had  been  spent  in  this  country, 
I  expected  to  lind  every  one  prepared  for  oc- 
currences of  this  nature  ;  but,  to  my  great 
surprise,  I  found,  on  the  contrary,  that  tliis 
news  had  thrown  them  all  into  the  greatest 
consternation ;  and,  on  every  side,  1  heard 
only  one  exclamation, '  11  injaiini  juis  ik  vie 
pour  nous.'  All  the  night,  scattered  groups 
were  assembled  around  the  tires,  smoking 
their  pipes,  and  listening  with  the  greatest 
eagerness  to  exaggerated  details  of  Indian 
hostilities ;  and  in  the  morning  I  found  the 
camp  dis|)irited,  and  agitated  by  a  variety  of 
contiicting  opinions.  A  majority  ol  the  peo- 
ple were  strongly  disposed  to  return ;  but 
CItment  Lambert,  with  some  five  or  six  oth- 
ers, professed  their  determination  to  follow 
Mr.  Fremont  to  the  uttermost  limit  of  his 
journey.  The  others  yielded  to  their  re- 
monstrances, and,  somewhat  ashamed  of 
their  cowardice,  concluded  to  advance  at 
least  so  far  as  Laramie  fork,  eastward  of 
which  they  were  aware  no  danger  was  to  be 
apprehended.  Notwithstanding  the  confu- 
sion and  excitement,  we  were  very  early  on 
the  road,  as  the  days  were  extremely  hot, 
and  we  were  anxious  to  prolit  by  the  fresh- 
ness of  the  morning.  The  solt  marly  form- 
ation, over  W'hich  we  were  now  journeying, 
frequently  offers  to  the  traveller  view-s  of  re- 
markable and  picturesque  beauty.  To  seve- 
ral of  the"e  localities,  where  the  winds  and 
the  rain  have  worked  the  blufis  into  curious 
shapes,  the  voyageurs  have  given  names  ac- 
cording to  some  fancied  resemblance.  One 
of  these,  called  the  Court-house,  we  pasoed 
about  six  miles  from  our  encampment  of  laat 
night,  and  toward  noon  came  in  sight  of  tnc 


VI'l 


[1842 


liiiil  briiki'ii  mil    into  oir'TI 

II  (III'  iirci'cdin;,'  uiitiiinn  liia 
miilcrcd  llu'iii  in  a  >('V('ro  oii- 

liii'li  ii  niiinlMT  III  livcH  Imi] 
Mitii  niilfs.     Uiiitt'd  willi  tlie 

(iroH  Ventre  liidiiiiiH,  tjicy 
till!  ii|i]icr  coiin'ry  in  wiir  pur- 
rro,  liiid  wiTi'  lit  tins  time  in 
)imI  oI'  tlii>   liitl  Biiiii  .V,  a  f'a- 

,  wliicli  Alls  directly  on  our 

III  di'dared  war  u|h)ii  every 
icli  slioiild  \.>c  liiiind  westward 
tlioii^'li  their  main  oliject  was 
,'t'  camp  of  whites  ami  Snake 
ad  a  rende/voiis  in  the  Sweet 

Availinir  hinisell'ol  liin  inti- 
|i,'p   of  the   country,   he   had 
lie  liy  an  nniisiial  route  throiiirh 
and  avoided   coiiiini;   into 
any  of  the  scattered  parties, 
m  ollered  his  cervices  to  ac- 
)  far  as  the  head  of  the  Sweet 
10  ahsenco  of  oiir  leader,  which 
ijrctted  liy  iis  all,  rendered  it 
lis   to  enter  n|ion   Kuch  ar- 
In  a  cani])  consistiiiir  of  men 
lid  hecii  spent  in  this  country, 
linil  every  one  prejiarcd  for  oc- 
this  nature  ;  hut,  to  my  great 
ind,  on  the  contrary,  that  this 
iwii  them  all  into  the  greatest 
;  and,  on  every  side,  1  heard 
tmation, '  II  n'ytiiirn  jkis  de  tie 
All  the  niiiht,  scattered  groups 
led  around  the  (ires,  smoking 
lul  listening  with  the  greatest 
exaggerated  details   of  Indian 
id  in  the  morning  I  found  the 
id,  and  agitated  liy  a  variety  of 
inions.     A  majority  o(  the  peo- 
ingly  disposed  to  return ;  but 
bert,  with  some  (ive  or  six  oth- 
their  detcnnination  to  follow 
to  the  uttermost  limit  of  his 
le  others   yielded  to  their  re- 
and,   somewhat  ashamed   of 
cc,  concluded   to  advance  at 
as  Laramie  fork,  eastward  of 
ere  aware  no  danger  was  to  be 
Notwithstanding  the  confu- 
teinent,  we  were  very  early  on 
the  days  were  extremely  hot, 
anxious  to  jirolit  by  the  I'resh- 
orning.     The  solt  marly  forra- 
lich  we  were  now  journeying, 
!r9  to  the  traveller  views  of  re- 
picturesque  beauty.     To  seve- 
jcalities,  where  the  winds  and 
worked  the  blufts  into  curious 
lyageurs  have  given  names  ac- 
ne (ancied  resemblance.     One 
id  the  Court-house,  we  pasaed 
's  frcin  our  encampment  of  laat 
/ard  noon  came  in  Eight  of  tn« 


1812.] 


CAI'T.  FRi:V  >NT\S  NARRATIVE. 


9A 


celebrated  Chimnnj  rork.  It  lookH,  at  thiK 
distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  like  what  i  '. 
called — till!  long  cliiiiiney  of  a  steam  liu'tory 
ti8tablishuient,  or  a  shot  tower  in  Kaltiiiiore. 
Nothing  occurred  to  interrii|)t  the  c|iiiel  of 
ihe  day,  mill  we  eiiiMiiiped  on  the  river,  after 
»  march  of  tweiily-fciur  miles.  Hiitl'ilo  had 
become  very  scarce,  and  but  one  cow  had 
lieen  killed,  of  which  the  meat  had  been  cut 
in(o  thill  sliceH.  ami  hung  around  the  carts 
10  dry 

"  Juli^  10. — Wo  continued  along  the  same 
fine  jilaiiily  beaten  road,  which  the  smooth 
surface  ol  the  country  allbrded  us,  for  a  dis- 
tance of  six  hundreil  and  thirty  miles,  Iroin 
ihe  frontiers  of  AlisscMiri  to  the  Laramie  fork. 
In  the  course  of  the  day  we  met  some  whites, 
ivho  were  following  along  in  the  tniin  of 
.Mr.  Uridger ;  and,  after  a  day's  journey  of 
twenty-limr  miles,  encamped  about  sunset  at 
the  Chimney  rock.  It  consists  of  marl  and 
earthy  limestone,  and  the  weather  is  rapidly 
(iiminishiiig  its  height,  which  is  now  not 
more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river. 
Travellers  who  visited  it  some  years  since 
placed  its  height  at  upwards  of  .500  feet. 

"./«///  11. — The  valley  of  the  North  fork 
is  of  a  variable  breadth,  from  one  to  four, 
and  somelimea  six  miles.  Fifteen  miles 
from  the  (hiinney  rock  wo  reached  one  of 
those  places  where  the  river  strikes  the 
bluffs,  and  forces  the  road  to  make  a  con- 
siderable circuit  over  the  uplands.  This 
presented  an  escarpment  on  the  river  of  about 
nine  hundred  yards  in  lengdi,  and  is  fami- 
liarly known  as  Scott's  bluH's.  We  had 
made  a  journey  of  thirty  miles  before  we 
again  struck  the  river,  at  a  place  where 
some  scanty  grass  ad'orded  an  insutlicient 
pasturage  to  our  animals.  About  twenty 
miles  from  the  Chimney  rock  we  had  found 
a  very  beautiful  spring  of  excellent  and  cold 
water  ;  but  it  was  in  such  a  deep  ravine,  and 
so  small,  that  the  animals  could  not  prolit  by 
it,  and  we  therefore  halted  only  a  few  min- 
utes, and  found  a  resting  place  ten  miles 
further  on.  The  plain  between  Scott's  bliilFs 
and  Chimney  rock  was  almost  entirely  co- 
vered with  drift  wood,  consisting  principally 
of  cedar,  which  we  were  informed,  had  been 
•upplied  from  the  Black  hills,  in  a  Hood  *ive 
or  six  years  since. 

"  Jahj  12. — Nine  miles  from  our  encamp- 
ment of  yesterday  we  crossed  Horse  creek, 
a  shallow  stream  of  clear  water,  about  se- 
venty yards  wide,  falling  into  the  Platte  on 
the  right  bank.  It  was  lightly  timbered, 
and  great  quantities  of  drift  wood  were  piled 
up  on  the  banks,  appearing  to  be  supplied 
by  the  creek  from  above.  After  a  journey 
of  twenty-six  miles,  we  encamped  on  a  rich 
bottom,  which  atVorded  line  grass  to  our  ani- 
mals. I'litValo  have  entirely  disappeared, 
and  we  live  now  upon  the  dried  meat>  whicli 


is  exceediniily  poor  food.  The  marl  and 
earthy  limestone,  which  constituted  the 
formation  for  several  days  past,  had  changed 
during  the  day  into  a  compact  white  or  u' /ey- 
isli  wliile  limesloiie,  sometimes  coiitaiiiing 
liornstoue ;  and  at  the  place  of  our  eiirauip- 
iiieiit  ibis  evening,  some  strata  ill  the  river 
hills  cropiied  out  to  thi!  height  of  thirty  or 
forty  feet,  consisting  of  a  tine-graiiied  gra- 
nitic sandstone  ;  one  of  the  strata  closely 
resembling  gneiss. 

"./»///  in. — 'I'o-day,  about  4  o'clock,  wo 
reached  Fort  Laramie,  where  we  were  cor- 
dially received  ;  wo  pitched  our  camp  a  lit- 
tle above  the  fort,  on  the  bank  of  the  Lara- 
mie river,  in  which  the  pure  and  clear  water 
of  the  mountain  stream  looked  relVesliiugly 
cool,  and  made  a  jileasant  cmitrast  to  the 
muddy,  yellow  waters  of  the  I'lalle." 

I  walked  up  to  visit  our  friends  at  the  fort, 
which  is  a  quadrangular  striii'liire,  built  of 
clay,  after  the  fashion  of  the  .Mexicans,  who 
are  generally  employed  in  bulhliiig  them 
The  walls  are  about  (iftet^i  feet  high,  sur- 
mounted with  a  wooden  palisade,  iiiid  Inruiii 
portion  of  ranges  of  houses,  which  enlirely 
surround  a  yard  of  about  one  hiiiidred  and 
thirty  feet  square.  Every  apartment  has  its 
door  ami  window — all,  of  course, ojiening  on 
the  inside.  There  are  two  entrances,  oppo- 
site each  other,  and  midway  the  wall,  one 
of  which  is  a  large  and  public  entrance  ;  the 
other  smaller  and  more  private — a  sort  of 
postern  gate.  Over  the  great  entrance  is  a 
square  tower  with  loopholes,  and,  like  the 
rest  of  the  work,  built  of  earth.  At  two  of 
the  angles,  and  diagonally  o|iposite  each 
other,  are  largo  square  bastions,  so  arranged 
as  to  sweep  the  four  faces  of  the  walls. 

This  post  belongs  to  the  American  Fur 
Company,  and,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  was 
in  charge  of  Air.  Boudeau.  Two  of  the 
company's  clerks,  Messrs.  (Jalpin  and  Kel- 
logg, were  with  him,  and  he  had  in  the  fort 
about  sixteen  men.  As  usual,  these  had 
found  wives  among  the  Indian  squaws;  and, 
with  the  usual  accompaniment  of  children, 
the  place  had  quite  a  populous  appearance. 
It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say,  that  the  object 
of  the  establishment  is  trade  with  the  neigh- 
boring tribes,  who,  in  the  course  of  the  year, 
generally  make  two  or  three  visits  to  the 
fort.  In  addition  to  this,  traders,  with  a 
small  outfit,  are  constantly  kept  amongst 
them.  The  articles  of  trade  consist,  on  the 
one  side,  almost  entirely  of  bufTalo  robes ; 
and,  on  the  otlier,  of  blankets,  calicoes, 
guns,  powder  and  lead,  with  such  cheap  or- 
naments as  glass  beads,  ookiiig-glasses, 
rings,  vermilion  for  painting,  tobacco,  and 
principally,  and  in  spite  of  the  prohibition,  of 
spirits,  brought  into  the  country  in  the  form 
of  alcohol,  and  diluted  with  water  liefore 
sold.     Wliile  mentioning  this  fact,  it  is  but 


M 


CAi'T.  FUIl.MONTS  NAUUATIVK. 


[ISVi 


I8VJ.1 


iuHlicn  to  tho  Americiin  Fur  ('()iii|Hiiiy  in 
■tiito,  tliHt,  lliriiii^lioiit  tiu*  niiiiitry,  I  Iiiim' 
alwiiyx  lo.iiiil  tlii'iri  Ftri'iriDiiHly  (i|i|ii)X('(l  ti 
tli<>  iiiii'>>(Jii('ti.in  of  f<|)iritii(iiii«  lii|iiuM.  Hut, 
ill  tlio  |iri>si'iit  htiito  of  tlilii{rfi,  vvlicii  tlii>  coun- 
try JH  hU|>|ilii'd  Willi  alrohnl,  wlicii  ii  ki';;  ol  it 
will  purciiiiM'  trom  uii  Indian  (.'Vcrytliiii;,'  lu' 
po^H('HHeH--lii(i  lurn,  Ills  iixliic,  Ins  liorM's, 
and  cvi'ii  iiii  wile  iiiid  cliildrcn — and  ulicn 
any  vujriihond  who  jms  nioni'y  iMiou^'li  to 
purclm.Ho  a  iiiiili'  ciin  i^o  into  a  village  iiiid 
trade  a^ain^•l  tln'iii  miccecurully,  without 
withdrawin;;  enliifly  Irom  the  tiadc,  it  i« 
iinpoM.'.ililc  lor  thi'iii  to  (iiHri)iitinu(>  its  use. 
Ill  ihi'ir  ()|)|)osition  to  this  pnictice,  the  coiii- 
pany  is  HU.-tainiMJ,  not  only  liy  their  ohlif,ra- 
tioii  to  th(!  laws  of  the  country  and  tla;  wel- 
fare of  the  Indians,  iiiit  clearly,  also,  on 
grounds  of  policy;  lor,  with  heavy  and  ox- 
pensive  oiillits,  they  contend  lit  nianifestly 
great  disadvantiijre  against  the  iiuineious  in- 
de|)eiMlent  and  iinlicensed  traders,  who  enter 
the  country  from  various  iiveiiues.  iroiii  the 
United  States  ami  from  Mexico,  having  no 
other  stock  in  trade  than  some  kegs  of  li- 
quor, which  they  sell  at  the  modest  price  of 
thirty-six  dollars  p(>r  gallon.  'I'lie  dilleri'iice 
between  the  regular  trader  and  the  cuurcur 
des  hdis  (as  the  l'"reiicli  call  the  itinerant  or 
peddling  traders),  with  respect  to  the  sale 
of  siiirils,  is  here,  as  it  always  has  heeii, 
fixed  and  periuanent,  and  growing  out  of  the 
nature  of  their  trade.  'J'lie  regular  trader 
looks  ahead,  and  has  an  interest  in  the  pre- 
servation of  the  Indians,  and  in  the  regular 
pursuit  of  their  husiiiess,  and  the  preserva- 
tion of  their  arms,  jiorses,  and  everything 
necessary  to  their  future  and  permanent  suc- 
cess in  hunting:  the  ctntrcur  tirs  bais  han  no 
perinanent  interest,  and  gets  what  he  can, 
and  for  what  he  can,  from  every  Indian  ho 
meets,  even  at  tho  risk  of  disaliling  liiin 
from  doing  anything  more  at  hiiiiting. 

The  fort  had  a  very  cool  and  clean  appear- 
ance. The  great  entrance,  in  which  I  loiiiul 
the  gentlemen  assembled,  and  which  was 
floored,  and  about  liflecn  feet  long,  made  a 
pleasant,  shaded  seat,  through  which  the 
breeze  swept  constantly  ;  for  this  country  is 
famous  for  liigli  winds.  In  tho  course  of 
conversation,  I  learned  the  following  parti- 
culars, which  will  exjilain  the  condition  of 
the  country  :  For  several  years  the  Chey- 
ennen  and  Sioux  had  gradually  become  more 
and  more  hostile  to  the  whites,  and  in  the 
latter  pan  of  August,  1841,  had  had  a  rather 
severe  engagement  with  a-  party  of  sixty 
men,  under  tho  command  of  Mr.  Frajip,  of 
St.  I^oiiis.  The  Indians  lost  eight  or  ten 
warrior.s,  and  the  whites  had  their  leader  and 
four  men  killed.  This  tight  took  place  on 
the  waters  of  Snake  river ;  and  it  was  this 
party,  on  their  return  under  Mr.  Bridger, 
which  liad  gpread  so  much  alarm  among  my 


|.eopl('.  In  the  course  of  the  fprlnif,  two 
otlier  small  parties  had  been  cut  oil'  liy  the 
.■>ioux — one  on  their  reliirii  Imm  the  Crow 
nation,  and  the  other  aiiiong  the  lihick  hills. 
The  eniigrants  to  Oregon  and  Mr.  Itridgi'r's 
party  met  iiere,  a  tew  days  before  our  arri- 
val. Divisions  and  nli^ull(ler^tanlbngs  hail 
lirowii  up  among  them  ;  they  were  already 
somewhat  di-hi'artened  by  the  fatigui!  of 
their  long  and  wearisome  )ourney,  anil  tho 
fi'it  of  tlicr  cattle  had  iM'come  so  niiicli 
Worn  as  to  be  scarcely  able  to  travel.  In 
this  (.itiiation,  they  were  not  likely  to  tind 
encouragement  in  the  hostile  attitude  of  the 
Indians,  and  the  new  and  nnexpei  ted  ditli- 
cultii's  which  sprang  up  before  them.  They 
were  told  that  tho  country  was  entirely 
swept  of  grass,  and  that  lew  or  no  bulliilo 
were  to  be  loiind  on  their  line  of  route  ;  and, 
with  their  weakened  animals,  it  would  be 
impossible  for  them  to  transpo'-t  their  heavy 
wagons  over  the  mountains.  I'lider  these 
circiinii-tances,  they  disposed  of  their  wagons 
and  cattle  at  the  forts;  selling  them  at  the 
prices  they  had  paid  in  the  States,  and  tak- 
ing in  exchange  colll'e  and  sugar  at  one  dol- 
lar a  pound,  and  miserable  worn-out  horses, 
which  died  before  they  reached  the  moun- 
tains. Mr.  lioiideaii  inlorincd  me  that  ho 
had  purchased  thirty,  and  llie  lower  fort 
eighty  head  of  line  cattle,  some  of  them  of 
the  Durham  breed.  JSIr.  Fitzpalrick,  whose 
name  and  high  reputation  are  fumiliar  to  all 
who  interest  themselves  in  tin-  history  of 
this  ciuinlry,  hud  reached  Laramie  in  com- 
pany with  Mr.  ISridger ;  and  the  emigrants 
were  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  his  services 
to  guide  them  as  far  as  the  JSritisli  post  of 
Fort  Hall,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
beyond  the  South  Pass  of  the  mountains. 
They  had  started  lor  this  post  on  the  4tli  of 
July,  and  immediately  after  their  departure, 
a  war  party  of  three  hundred  and  fifty 
braves  set  out  upon  their  trail.  As  their 
principal  chief  or  partisan  liad  lost  some  re- 
lations in  the  recent  tight,  and  had  sworn  to 
kill  the  first  whites  on  iiis  path,  it  was  sup- 
posed that  their  intention  was  to  attack  the 
party,  should  a  favorable  opportunity  oiler; 
or,  if  they  were  foiled  in  their  principal  ob- 
ject by  the  vigilance  of  Mr.  Fitzpalrick,  con- 
tent themselves  with  stealing  horses  and 
cutting  oil"  stragglers.  These  had  been  gone 
but  a  few  days  previous  to  our  arrival. 

The  ellect  of  the  engagement  with  Mr. 
Frapp  had  been  greatly  to  irritate  the  linstilo 
spirit  of  the  savages;  and  immediately  sub- 
sequent to  that  event,  the  Gross  Ventre  In- 
dians had  united  with  the  Oglallahs  and 
(.'lieyennos,  and  taken  the  held  in  great 
force — so  far  as  I  could  ascertain,  to  the 
amount  of  eight  hundred  lodges.  Their  ob- 
ject was  to  make  an  attack  on  a  "amp  of 
Snake  and  Crow  Lidians,   and  a  body   of 


abou .  o'U' 
rciide/.voi 
lulley.  o 
(i|)enili"g 
lieigliborl 
tiiil!,  the> 
river  wali 
of  tijo  Sol 
!i'y.  Ac( 
iliaiis.  Ml 
miinewhei 
Water. 
|iartv  led 
liy  tlii'ir  I 
ui  the  vai 
skill  and 
prise,  a  III 
iiiit  vent  I 
Ihey  1(  .-I 
and,  cont 
-iiddenly 
I  hose  the 
l/Jiig  ri's 
liad  given 
iiitluence 
Aero  (lisp 
by  far  tin 
Iiostile  nil 
whole  of 
die  little 
council,  ( 
tliom  the 
•the  Bro 
patrick  ( 

red  by 
prevailed 
lested  p; 
him  that 
that  anv 
after  be  i 
tain  dost 
able  to  li 
L'ranls  o\ 

Thus 
was  swn 
and  who 
ous  con 
which  w 
'.vas  not 
vailed  ai 
be.it   aiK 
fully  su 
of  the  c 
openly 
Could   1 
//Uiiters 
this,  he 
cumstaii 
to  inert' 
iinfortui 
my  pari 
that  the 
this  plai 
<vhich 


»i;. 


[184il 


(iiiirsn  of  tin'  ►'jiriiij;,  two 
^^<■^   liad  liccil  (III  (ill  liy  tliv 
ilicir  ictiirii  trnrii  iIip  Crow 
tluT  iiliit'll;.'  Ilic  llliick  hills, 
ti)  ( )rci,'(iii  iiikI  Mr.  Itriil>,'t'r's 
;i  lew  (lay!*   iH'tmc  our  iirri- 
Mini   iiii.->iiiiili'rr^taii>lin|.'H  hiiil 
ij,f  tliciii  ;  they  wiTc   already 
irtclii'd    liy   the    r;iti(.'ii(!  of 
wi'iirisoiiic  idiiriicy,  mid  tlic 
(Mttio   linil  Im'i'iiiiu'  i«i  iiiiich 
hi'iirccly  ulilo  lo  Iriivcl.     In 
licy  wcTL'  not  likely  to  find 
ill  tlii>  lio.siilc  iittitiKJi'  of  the 
new  niid  niK'.\|ii'i  led  diU'i- 
iraiiir  up  licrnre  lliciii.    Tlicy 
tiio    country    wuk  Piilircly 
,  and    that   lew  or   no   linlliili) 
id  nil  their  line  ol  roiito  ;  and, 
;il<('iii<d  animal.-',  it  would  he 
ihi'in  to  traiispo'-t  their  heavy 
u!  inoiintains,     I'lider   thei«e 
they  (li.'ipo.-ied  of  their  wagons 
!■  fnrt.s ;  nelliiij,'  tlieiii  at  the 
|iaid   in  the  States,  and  tuk- 
;e  colll'eaiid  hiii.'ar  at  one  dol- 
iniserahle  woriMnit  horses, 
lore  they  reached   the   nioiin- 
udeaii  inlornied  ine  that  he 
1    thirty,  and   iJio    lower   fort 
line  cattle,  some  of  them  fif 
leed.     Mr.  Fitzpalrick,  whose 
'i  reputation  are  familiar  to  all 
themselves  in  the  history  of 
lad  reached  l..arainie  in  com- 
.  llridijer  ;  and  the  eiiiijirants 
!  enoiicrli  to  ohtuiii  his  serviccH 
as  far  as  the  JJritish  post  of 
ut  two  hundred  and  lil'ty  miles 
louth  I'ass  of  the  mountains, 
ted  lor  thi.-t  po.st  on  the  4th  of 
iiediately  after  their  departure, 
of    three    hundred   and    fifty 
t  upon  their  trail.     A.s  their 
or  partisan  had  lost  some  re- 
recent  tight,  and  had  sworn  to 
hites  on  his  path,  it  was  sup- 
ir  intention  was  to  attack  the 
a  favorahle  opporliiiiitv  oflbr; 
?re  foiled  in  their  (iriiicipal  ob- 
:ilance  of  Mr.  Fitz|)alricK,  con- 
es with   stealiiifj   horses  and 
igglers.     Those  had  been  pone 
i  previous  to  our  arrival, 
of  the  engagement  with  Mr. 
n  greatly  to  irritate  the  hostile 
ivagcs  ;   and  immediately  sub- 
it  event,  the  Gross  Ventre  In- 
lited    with  the  Oglallahs  and 
nd   taken   the    held   in   great 
as  I  could  a.scertain,  to  the 
lit  hundred  lodges.     Their  ob- 
lakc  an  attack  on  a  rainp  of 
row  Lidiaiis,   and  a  body   of 


184-J. 


CAl'T.  ntK.MONT'S  \.\l{|{.\  TIVi;. 


aboM  .  o'le  hiiiu''eil  whites,  who  had  made  a 
ri'iidi'/voiis  sdiiiewhere  in  the  (ireeli  river 
lullcv.  or  on  till)  Sweet  Water.  Aller 
f>{ieiiiii»g  Homo  time  in  Imllliln  liiiiiiing  in  the 
neif^lil'orhood  of  the  .Medicine  liow  nioiin- 
tiiill,  Ihi-y  were  to  cross  over  to  the  (ireeii 
river  waiers,  and  return  to  Laramie  hy  way 
of  ll»«^  Smith  Pass  and  the  Sweet  Water  val- 
ley. Acitording  to  the  lalciihilicin  of  the  lil- 
ili.ins,  Mr.  Itoiideiui  inlnriiii'il  me  they  were 
fiiinewliero  near  the  head  of  the  Sweet 
Water.  I  suhse'|iientl^'  learned  that  the 
partv  led  hy  .Mr.  Fii/palriik  were  overtaken 
liy  tlieir  pur.siierH  near  Hock  ludependence, 
III  the  vai  ey  of  the  Sweet  Wati-r ;  but  his 
•kill  and  re.'iidiition  saved  tlieui  Irmii  sur- 
prise, and,  small  as  his  force  was,  thev  did 
imt  M'lilure  to  attack  him  openly.  Ilere 
tliey  1(  ^l  one  of  their  |)arly  by  an  accident, 
and,  continuing  up  the  valley,  lliey  came 
•iiddenly  ujion  the  large  village.  l''rom 
•liesi!  they  met  with  a  doubtful  reception. 
Iioiig  reMidence  and  familiar  iK'i|uaiiilaiice 
Had  given  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  great  personal 
iiilliience  among  them,  and  a  portion  of  them 
acre  disposed  to  let  him  jiass  ipiielly  ;  but 
by  far  the  greater  number  were  inclined  to 
iiostile  measures  ;  and  the  cliiels  s|)eiit  the 
whole  of  one  night,  during  which  they  kejit 
llie  little  party  in  the  midst  of  them,  in 
council,  debating  the  ([iiestion  of  attacking 
tliein  the  next  day  ;  but  the  inlliienco  of 
'■  the  Itroken  Hand,"  as  they  called  .Mr.  Filz- 
patrick  (one  of  his  hands  having  been  sliat- 
ie-ed  by  the  bursting  of  a  gun),  at  length 
jirevailed,  and  obtained  for  them  an  unmo- 
lested ])assage  ;  but  they  sternly  assured 
iiiin  that  this  path  was  no  longer  open,  and 
that  any  party  of  whites  which  should  here- 
after be  found  upon  it  would  meet  with  cer- 
tain destruction.  From  all  that  I  have  been 
able  to  learn,  1  have  no  doubt  that  the  eini- 
irrants  owe  their  lives  to  Mr.  Fiizpatrick. 

Thus  it  would  appear  that  the  country 
was  swarming  with  scattered  war  parties; 
and  when  I  heard,  during  the  day,  the  vari- 
ous contradictory  and  e.vaggerated  rumors 
which  were  incessantly  repeated  to  them,  I 
was  not  surprised  that  so  much  alarm  pre- 
vailed among  my  men.  Carson,  one  of  the 
best  and  most  e.xperienced  mountaineers, 
fully  supported  the  opinion  given  by  IJridger 
of  the  dangerous  .state  of  the  country,  and 
openly  expressed  his  conviction  that  we 
cuiild  not  escape  without  some  sharp  en- 
/■/unters  with  the  Indians.  In  addition  to 
this,  he  made  his  will ;  and  among  the  cir- 
cumstances which  were  constantly  occurring 
to  increase  their  alarm,  this  was  the  most 
unfortunate  ;  and  I  found  that  a  number  ot 
niy  parly  had  become  so  much  intimidated, 
that  they  had  requested  to  be  discharged  at 
this  place.  I  dined  to-day  at  Fort  t'iatte, 
wliich  lia.s  been  mtintioncd  as  situated  at  the 


|iiii(ti<iii  of  Laramie  ri\er  with  tlie  Ncbrnskii. 
Here  I  hear<l  :t  coiilirmation  ol  the  stale* 
meiits  giM-ii  iihoM'.  The  party  of  warriors, 
which  hiel  st.irled  a  lew  (lays  since  on  the 
trail  ol  the  ('iiie.'niiitH,  was  expecteil  back  in 
loiirteeii  days,  to  |iiln  llie  villau'e  with  which 
their  laiiiilies  and  ilie  old  men  had  remained. 
Thi^  arrival  ol  the  latter  wiih  hourly  e.vpect- 
ed  ;  and  soiiie  Imlians  liavi!  just  come  la 
who  had  left  tlieui  on  the  Laramie  fork, 
about  twenty  miles  above.  .Mr.  Iti.~>nnrtte, 
one  of  the  traders  belonging  to  Fort  I'lalte, 
urged  the  propriety  of  taking  with  mean  in- 
terpreter and  two  or  three  old  men  ol  the 
vilbiije  ;  in  w  liicli  case,  he  Ihoiight  there 
Would  be  little  or  no  ha/.ard  in  enconnteniig 
any  of  the  war  parties.  The  principal 
danger  was  in  being  attacked  belore  they 
should  know  who  we  were. 

'I'liey  had  a  confused  idea  of  the  numbers 
and  power  ol  our  people,  iind  dreaded  to 
bring  upon  themselves  the  military  force  of 
the  llnited  States.  This  gentleiii;iii,  who 
spoki'  the  language  lliiently,  olli-red  his  ser- 
viies  to  accompany  me  so  lar  as  tlu^  Ked 
Unties.  He  WHS  desirous  to  join  the  largo 
party  on  its  return,  for  purposes  of  trade,  and 
It  would  suit  his  views,  as  well  as  my  own, 
to  go  with  us  to  the  IJuttes;  beyond  "which 
point  it  would  be  impossible  to  prevail  on  a 
Sioii.v  to  venture,  on  account  of  their  fear  of 
the  (Jrows.  Fnaii  Fort  Ijaramie  to  tin?  Ked 
IJuttes,  by  the  ordinary  road,  is  one  hundred 
and  thirty-live  miles ;  and,  though  only  on 
the  threshold  of  danger,  it  seemed  better  to 
secure  the  services  of  an  interpreter  lor  the 
partial  distance,  thati  to  have  none  at  all. 

So  far  as  freciiient  interruption  from  the 
Indians  would  allow,  we  occupied  (jiirselves 
in  making  some  astronomical  calculations, 
and  bringing  uji  the  general  map  to  this 
stage  of  our  journey  ;  but  the  tent  was  gen- 
erally occupied  hy  a  succession  of  our  cere- 
monious visitors.  Some  came  for  presents, 
and  otiiers  for  informalion  of  our  object  in 
coming  to  the  country  ;  now  and  then,  one 
would  dart  nj)  to  the  tent  on  horseback,  jerk 
oil'  his  trappings,  and  stand  silently  at  the 
door,  holding  his  horse  by  the  halter,  signi- 
fying his  desire  to  trade.  Occasionally  a 
savage  would  stalk  in  with  an  invita'.ion  to 
a  feast  of  honor,  a  dog  feast,  and  deliberately 
sit  down  and  wait  quietly  until  I  was  ready 
to  accomjiany  him.  I  went  to  one  ;  the 
women  and  children  were  sitting  outside  the 
lodge,  and  wo  took  our  seats  on  bufliilo 
robes  spread  around.  The  dog  was  in  a 
large  pot  over  the  tire,  in  the  middle  of  the 
lodge,  and  immediately  on  our  arrival  was 
dished  up  in  large  wooden  bowls,  one  of 
which  was  handoii  to  each.  The  llesli  ap- 
peared very  glutinous,  v.'illi  something  of  the 
flavor  and  ajipearance  of  mutton.  Feeling 
something  move  behind  nic,  I  looked  rouni^ 


t8 


CAVT.  FREMONT'S  NARRATIVE. 


1 1843. 


and  found  that  1  liad  taken  my  seat  ainongf  a 
litter  ot'  flit  ynnng  ])up|)i('s.  Mad  I  boon 
nice  in  kucIi  matters,  tlie  prejiuiiccs  of  civi- 
lisation might  have  interfered  vvitii  my  tran- 
quillity; but,  fortunately,  1  am  not  of  deli- 
cato  nerves,  and  continued  quietly  to  empty 
my  platter. 

The  weather  was  cloudy  at  cveninrr,  with 
a  moderate  south  wind,  and  the  thermometer 
at  C  o'clock  85".  I  was  disappointed  in  my 
hope  of  ohlaininfif  an  observation  of  an  oc- 
cultation,  which  took  place  about  midnif^ht. 
The  moon  brought  with  her  heavy  banks  of 
clouds,  through  which  she  scarcely  made 
her  appearance  during  the  night. 

The  morning  of  the  18th  was  cloudy  and 
calm,  the  thermometer  at  G  o'clock  at  (M°. 
About  9,  with  a  moderate  wind  from  the 
west,  a  storm  of  rain  came  on,  accompanied 
by  sharp  thunc!  j'  and  lightning,  which  lasted 
about  an  hour.  Juring  the  day  the  expected 
village  arrived,  consisting  principally  of  old 
men,  women,  and  children.  They  had  a 
considerable  number  of  horses,  and  large 
troops  of  dogs.  Their  lodges  were  pitched 
near  the  fort,  and  our  camp  was  constantly 
crowded  with  Indians  of  all  sizes,  from  morn- 
ing until  night ;  at  which  time  some  of  the 
soldiers  generally  came  to  drive  them  all  oft' 
to  the  village.  My  tent  was  the  only  place 
which  they  respected.  Here  only  came  the 
cliicfs  and  men  of  distinction,  and  generally 
one  jf  them  remained  to  drive  away  the  wo- 
men and  children.  The  numerous  strange 
instruments,  applied  to  still  stranger  uses, 
ex?,ited  awe  and  admiration  among  them, 
and  those  which  I  used  in  talking  with  the 
sun  and  stars  they  looked  upon  with  especial 
reverence,  as  mysterious  things  of  "  great 
medicine."  Of  the  three  barometers  which 
I  had  brought  with  me  thus  far  successfully, 
I  found  that  two  were  out  of  order,  and  spent 
the  greater  part  of  the  19th  in  repairing 
them — an  operation  of  no  small  difficulty  in 
the  midst  of  the  incessant  interruptions  to 
which  I  was  subjected.  We  had  the  mis- 
fortune to  break  here  a  large  thermometer, 
gradaatcd  to  show  tilths  of  a  degree,  which 
I  used  to  ascertain  the  temperature  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  with  which  I  had  promised 
myself  some  interesting  experiments  in  the 
mountains.  We  had  but  one  remaining,  on 
which  the  graduation  extended  sufficiently 
high ;  and  this  was  too  small  for  exact  ob- 
servations. During  our  stay  here,  the  men 
had  been  engaged  in  making  numerous  re- 
pairs, arranging  pack-saddles,  and  otherwise 
preparing  for  the  chances  of  a  rough  road 
and  mountain  travel.  All  thaigs  of  this  na- 
ture being  ready,  I  gathered  them  around 
me  in  the  evening,  and  told  them  that "  I  had 
determined  to  proceed  the  next  day.  They 
were  all  well  armed.  I  had  engaged  the 
services  of  Mr.  Bissonette  as  intsrpreter,  and 


had  taken,  in  the  circumslauce.--,  o\ory  pos^ 
sible  means  to  insure  our  safety.  In  the  ru 
mors  wo  had  heard,  I  believed  there  was 
much  exaggeration,  and  then  they  were  men 
accustomed  to  this  kind  of  life  and  to  the 
country  ;  and  that  these  were  the  (lan/rers  of 
every  day  occurrence,  and  to  be  expected  in 
the  ordinary  course  of  their  service.  They 
had  heard  of  the  unsettled  condition  of  the 
country  before  leaving  St.  l/ouis,  anJ  there- 
fore could  not  make  it  a  reason  for  breaking 
their  engagements.  Still,  1  was  unwilling 
to  take  witii  me,  on  a  service  of  some  cer- 
tain danger,  men  on  whom  I  could  not  rely ; 
and  as  I  had  understood  that  there  were 
among  them  some  who  were  disposed  to 
cowardice,  and  anxious  to  return,  they  had 
but  to  come  forward  at  once,  and  slate  their 
desire,  and  they  would  be  discharged  v.ith 
the  amount  duo  to  them  for  the  time  they 
had  served."  To  their  honor  be  it  said,  there 
was  but  one  among  them  who  had  the  face 
to  come  forward  and  avail  himself  of  the  per- 
mission. I  afsked  him  some  few  questions, 
in  order  to  expose  him  to  the  ridicule  of  the 
men,  and  let  him  go.  The  day  after  our 
departure,  he  engaged  himself  to  one  of 
the  forts,  and  set  oil"  with  a  party  to  the  Up- 
per Missouri.  I  did  not  think  that  the  situ- 
ation of  the  country  justified  me  in  taking 
our  young  companions,  Messrs.  Brant  and 
Benton,  along  with  us.  In  case  of  misfor- 
tune, it  would  have  been  thought,  at  the 
least,  an  act  of  great  imprudence  ;  and  there- 
fore, though  reluctantly,  I  determined  to 
leave  them.  Randolph  had  been  the  life  of 
the  camp,  and  the  '■'■  jietit  frarfon"  was  much 
regretted  by  the  men,  to  whom  his  buoyant 
spirits  had  afTorded  great  amnscment.  They 
all,  however,  agreed  in  the  propriety  of  leav- 
ing him  at  the  fort,  because,  as  they  said,  he 
might  cost  the  lives  of  some  of  the  men  in  a 
fight  with  the  Indians. 

July  21. — A  portion  of  our  baggage,  with 
our  field  notes  and  observations,  and  several 
instruments,  were  left  at  the  fort.  One  of 
the  gentlemen,  Mr.  (ilalpin,  took  charge  of  a 
barometer,  which  he  engaged  to  observe 
during  my  absence ;  and  I  entrusied  to  Ran- 
dolph, by  way  of  occupation,  tue  regular 
winding  up  of  two  of  my  chronome'ers,which 
were  among  the  instruments  eft.  Our  ob- 
servations showed  that  the  chronometer 
which  I  retained  for  the  continuation  of  our 
voyage  had  preserved  its  rate  in  a  most  sa- 
tisfactory manner.  As  deduced  from  it,  the 
longitude  of  Fort  Laramie  is  1h.  01'  21", 
and  from  lunar  distance  7/i.  01'  29";  giving 
for  the  adopted  longitude  104°  47'  45". 
Comparing  the  barometrical  observations 
made  during  our  stay  here,  with  those  of  Dr. 
a.  Engleman  at  St.  l^uis,  we  find  lor  the  ele- 
vation of  tiie  I'ort  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
4,170  feet.     The  winter  ?limate  liere  is  re 


(842.] 

narkal 

iveatlii 
bratoil 
la  west 
south  \ 
iccomi 
We 
struck, 
fadilleci 

iilO  .sV(/ 

!ont  ho 
pleasai: 
rool  cli 
had  be( 
iroin  til 
(if  Ihei 
ilioir  w 
'ition. 
lliey  to( 


«  Ml! 

iiles  pri 
;lu  ne  p 
ie  parti 
;i)iont 
qil'ils  S( 
nremier 
:utir  dai 

oils  fill 
qu'il  e.« 
^'er.  ^ 
tours  d 
oartir  a 
"  Jc 


■•Lp 
Jo  Loi 
.Voir, 


"  .Ml, 

icmble( 
warn 
young 
turned, 
:ire  ver 
as  they 
a   sev 
inakinj 
hity  tc 
chiefs 
llie  ret 
this  no 
"I 


Hat, 
NijrUt. 


rivR. 


1 1843. 


tliO  circumstanro.--,  pvory  pos- 
n  insure  our  saioty.     In  llic  rii 
(I  heard,  I  hi'lii'vod  tlierc  was 
'ration,  and  then  tliey  wpro  men 
to  this  kind  of  life  and  to  the 
tiiat  these  were  the  dan/rera  of 
ciirrence,  and  to  he  expected  in 
course  ot  their  t^ervice.     They 
tlie  unsettled  condition  of  the 
re  ieavinfj  tit.  Louis,  anJ  there- 
it  make  it  a  reason  for  breaking 
ments.     Still,  I   was  unwilling 
me,  on  a  service  of  some  cer- 
men  on  whom  I  could  not  rely ; 
ad  understood  that  there  were 
1  some  who  were   disposed   to 
nd  anxious  to  return,  they  had 
forward  at  once,  and  state  their 
they  would  be  discharged  with 
duo  to  them  for  the  time  they 
'     To  their  honor  be  it  said,  there 
;  amonjr  them  who  had  the  face 
ward  and  avail  himself  of  the  per- 
aSiked  iiim  some  few  questions, 
expose  liim  to  the  ridicule  of  the 
et  him  go.     The  day  after  our 
he   engaged   liimself  to  one  of 
!id  set  oil"  with  a  party  to  the  Up- 
iri.     I  did  not  think  that  the  situ- 
3  country  justified  me  in  taking 
companions,  Messrs.  Brant  and 
)ng  with  us.     In  case  of  misfor- 
ould  have  been  thought,   at  the 
:t  of  great  imprudence ;  and  there- 
gh   reluctantly,   1   determined  to 
I.     Randolph  had  been  tiie  life  of 
and  the  "  petit  gaiyon"  was  much 
)y  the  men,  to  whom  his  buoyant 
aflbrded  great  amusement.    They 
?r,  agreed  in  the  propriety  of  leav- 
;  the  fort,  becanse,  as  they  said,  lie 
the  lives  of  some  of  the  men  in  a 
the  Indians. 

. — A  portion  of  our  baggage,  with 
otes  and  observations,  and  sevenil 
ts,  were  left  at  the  fort.  One  of 
men,  Mr.  (Jalpin,  took  charge  of  a 
I  which  he  engaged  to  observe 
absence ;  a. id  I  entrusted  to  Ran- 
way  of  occupation,  tue  regular 
p  of  two  of  my  chronome'ers,which 
ng  the  instruments  eft.  Our  ob 
showed  that  the  chrohometer 
Gained  for  the  continuation  of  our 
(1  preserved  its  rate  in  a  most  sa- 
manner.  As  deduced  from  it,  the 
of  Fort  Laramie  is  1h.  01'  21", 
lunar  distance  7/i.  01 '  'J9"  ;  giving 
dopted  longitude  104=  4T  43". 
g  the  barometrical  observations 
ng  our  stay  here,  with  those  of  Dr. 
nan  at  St.  liOuis,  we  find  for  the  ele- 
the  tort  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
;.     The  winter  i-limate  here  is  re 


(84--2.1 


CAPT.  Fui:.\i()NTs  \arratim;. 


29 


markably  mild  tor  the  latitude;  but  rainy 
(veatliiT  is  IreipuMit,  and  the  place  is  cele- 
brated for  winds,  of  which  the  prevailing  one 
[i  west.  An  east  wind  in  summer,  and  a 
south  wind  in  winter,  are  said  to  he  always 
accompanii'd  with  rain. 

Wo  weio  ready  to  depart ;  the  tents  were 
flruck,  the  mules  geared  up,  and  our  horses 
f.iddled,  and  we  walked  up  to  the  fort  to  take 
iiie  siirnip  nip  with  our  friends  in  an  excel- 
lent homc-hrowod  [ireparation.  Wliile  thus 
|)leai<anlly  engaged,  seated  in  one  of  the  little 
fool  chambers,  at  the  door  of  which  a  man 
liad  been  stationed  to  prevent  all  intrusion 
iWiin  the  iiulians,  a  number  of  chiefs,  several 
iif  them  powerful  line-looking  men,  forced 
ilioir  way  into  the  room  in  spite  oi  all  opjro- 
sition.  Handing  me  the  following  letter, 
lliey  took  their  seats  in  silence  : 

"Fort  Platte,  Jiiillct  1, 1842. 

"  Mk.  Fkf.mont  :  Les  chefs  setantassem- 
i)les  prisentcment  mo  disont  de  vous  avertir 
Je  ne  point  vous  niettre  en  route,  avant  (jue 
ie  parti  do  jeunes  gens,  qui  est  en  dehors, 
joiont  de  retour.  De  plus,  ils  me  disent 
iju'ils  sout  tres  certains  qu'ils  foront  feu  k  la 
!ircmii;re  rencontre.  lis  doivent  etre  de  re- 
;uur  dans  sept  k  huit  jours.  Hxcusez  si  je 
rous  fais  ces  observations,  mais  il  mo  semblo 
qu'il  est  mon  devoir  do  vous  avertir  du  dan- 
;rer.  .Memo  do  plus,  les  chefs  sont  les  por- 
teurs  de  co  billet,  qui  vous  defondent  do 
oartir  avant  ie  retour  des  guerriers. 

"  Je  suis  votre  obeissant  serviteur, 
"  JOSEPH  BISSONFTTF, 
"  Par  L.  B.  CIIARTRAIN. 

"  Les  noms  de  quelqucsclicfs. — Le  Chapoau 
de  Loutre,  le  Casseur  do  FlCches,  la  Nuit 
.Noir,  la  Ciueue  de  B(cuf." 

[Translation.] 

"FoiiT  Platte,  Jnlij  1, 1842. 

"  Mk.  Phemoxt  :  The  chiefs,  having  as- 
sembled in  council,  iiave  just  told  me  to 
warn  you  not  to  set  out  before  the  jiarty  of 
young  men  which  is  now  out  shall  have  re- 
turned. Furthermore,  they  tell  me  that  they 
are  very  sure  they  will  fire  upon  you  as  soon 
as  they  meet  you.  They  are  expected  back 
in  seven  or  eight  days.  Excuse  me  for 
making  these  observations,  but  it  seems  my 
ihity  to  warn  you  of  danger.  Moreover,  liie 
chiol's  who  prohibit  your  setting  out  before 
the  return  of  the  warriors  are  the  bearers  of 
lliis  note. 

"  I  am  your  obedient  servant, 

"  JOSFPH  BISS0\I-:TTE, 

"  By  L.  B.  CIIARTRAIN. 

"  Names  of  some  of  the  chiefs. — The  Otter 
Hat,  the  Breaker  of  Arrow*,  tlio  Black 
NiirUt,  the  Bull's  Tail." 


After  reading  tlii.s,  I  mentioned  it.s  purport 
to  my  companions  ;  and,  seeing  tliat  all 
were  fully  possessed  of  its  contents,  oiu;  of 
the  Indians  rose  up,  and,  liavinij  lirst  shaken 
hands  with  me.  spoke  as  follows: 

'■  You  have  come  among  us  at  a  bad  lime. 
Some  of  our  people  have  been  killed,  and  our 
young  men,  who  are  gone  to  the  mountains, 
are  eager  to  avenge  the  blood  of  their  rela- 
tions, which  has  been  shed  by  the  whites. 
Our  young  men  are  bad,  and,  if  they  meet 
you,  they  will  believe  that  you  are  carrying 
goods  and  anununilion  to  their  enemies,  and 
will  fire  ujion  you.  Vou  have  told  us  that 
this  will  make  war.  We  know  that  our 
groat  father  has  many  soldiers  and  big  guns, 
and  wo  are  an.xious  to  have  our  lives.  Wo 
love  the  whites,  and  are  desirous  of  peace. 
Thinking  of  all  these  things,  we  have  deter- 
mined to  keep  you  hero  until  our  warriors 
return.  Wo  are  glad  to  see  you  among  ua. 
Our  father  is  rich,  and  wo  expected  that  you 
would  have  brought  presents  to  us — horses, 
guns,  and  blankets.  But  wo  are  glad  to  see 
you.  Wo  look  upon  your  coming  as  the  light 
which  goes  before  the  sun ;  for  you  will  tell 
mir  great  father  that  you  have  seen  us,  and 
that  wo  are  naked  and  poor,  and  have  no- 
thing to  eat;  and  he  will  send  us  all  these 
things."  He  was  followed  by  the  others,  to 
the  same  etrect. 

The  observations  of  the  savage  appeared 
reasonable ;  but  I  was  aware  that  they  had 
in  view  only  the  present  object  of  detaining 
me,  and  were  unwilling  I  should  go  I'urther 
into  the  country.  In  reply,  I  asked  them, 
through  the  interpretation  of  Mr.  Boudeau, 
to  select  two  or  three  of  their  number  to  ac- 
company us  until  we  should  meet  their  ])eo- 
ple — they  should  spread  their  robes  in  my  tent 
and  eat  at  my  table,  and  on  our  return  I 
would  give  them  presents  in  reward  of  their 
services.  They  declined,  saying  that  there 
were  no  young  men  left  in  the  village,  and 
that  they  were  too  old  to  travel  so  many  days 
on  horseback,  and  preferred  now  to  smoke 
their  pipes  in  the  lodge,  and  let  the  warriors 
go  on  the  war  path.  Besides,  they  had  no 
power  over  the  young  mon,  and  were  afraid 
to  interfere  with  them.  In  my  turn  I  address- 
ed them  :  '•  You  say  that  you  love  the  whites ; 
why  have  you  killed  so  many  already  this 
spring  ?  \  on  say  that  you  love  the  whites, 
and  are  full  of  many  e.xpressions  of  friend- 
ship to  us  ;  but  you  are  not  willing  to  undergo 
the  fatigue  of  a  few  days'  ride  to  save  oar 
lives.  We  do  not  believe  what  you  have 
said,  and  will  not  listen  to  you.  Whatever 
a  chief  among  us  tells  his  soldiers  to  do,  ia 
done.  We  are  the  soldiers  of  tne  great  chief, 
your  father.  Ho  has  told  us  to  come  here 
and  see  this  country,  and  all  the  hidians,  his 
children.  Why  should  we  not  ;o  ?  Bcfor* 
we  came,  we  heard  that  you  li.td  killed  ku. 


■I ' 


4_ 


w^ 


t 
k 


i: 


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